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Suggestion: Graduated Tennis Necklace

Sakuramickey

Shiny_Rock
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Apr 14, 2018
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I am looking at making a customized graduated tennis necklace. Any recommendations on the sizes of the stones I need to use? I’m only 5’3”. What length would be nice? I was thinking to have 1ct as center stone, then 0.70ct or 0.75ct may be? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
 
I think a 1ct centre is a really nice and substantial size for a tennis necklace! In general, I think tennis necklaces look really nice when the graduation in the front (where the focus is) is small. I would actually think of it in terms of mm size, not necessarily ct weight.

A 1ct centre will be ~6.5mm, and a difference of around 0.2mm is when most people start being able to distinguish a change in size, especially in comparison. If budget permits, I would do a 1ct centre with perhaps 0.92ct on either side (should be approx 6.2-6.25mm I believe), then grade it down to 0.82ct on either side (should be approx 5.95-6mm). That would give you a very subtle graduation that draws a lot of attention to the substantial diamond coverage near the hollow between your collarbones. Again, if budget permits, I would do a subtle graduation, going down 0.2-0.3mm with every step, until you reach enough length to cover the front part of your neck (from the part where your neck meets your shoulder on either ends). After that, you can step up the graduation to complete the necklace (take bigger jumps in size) or just put polished metal (gold or platinum, whatever you use) because, unless you have short hair or wear your hair up in an updo, those stones will not really be visible. This way, you will have concentrated most of your budget in that part of the necklace that is visible.

I also would prefer to go with bigger and fewer stones than smaller and more stones, and would play with the setting style that allows me to cover most ground with the fewest number of stones. For example, a four prong setting, which imparts a "squarish" appearance to a stone, also allows stones to sit closer together, which means you need more stones to achieve the same length. A three prong setting, which makes an individual stone appear more triangular/round, usually sits more spaced out. I think a 1ct stone ought to be safe in a 3 prong setting especially if worn at the neck, but if your jeweler thinks its concerning, I think a 6 prong setting ought to achieve the same spacing out and roundness effect while also protecting the stone better. Another option is to get a necklace that has metal links in between stones, spacing them out slightly. Have attached a pic from the internet of the same to show you what I mean. This is a bezel setting, which I am not personally a fan of, but I think it could work even with prong set stones.

Enjoy your project! I hope this helps!

single-stone-18ky-gabby-diamond-bracelet_800x800.jpg
 
I think a 1ct centre is a really nice and substantial size for a tennis necklace! In general, I think tennis necklaces look really nice when the graduation in the front (where the focus is) is small. I would actually think of it in terms of mm size, not necessarily ct weight.

A 1ct centre will be ~6.5mm, and a difference of around 0.2mm is when most people start being able to distinguish a change in size, especially in comparison. If budget permits, I would do a 1ct centre with perhaps 0.92ct on either side (should be approx 6.2-6.25mm I believe), then grade it down to 0.82ct on either side (should be approx 5.95-6mm). That would give you a very subtle graduation that draws a lot of attention to the substantial diamond coverage near the hollow between your collarbones. Again, if budget permits, I would do a subtle graduation, going down 0.2-0.3mm with every step, until you reach enough length to cover the front part of your neck (from the part where your neck meets your shoulder on either ends). After that, you can step up the graduation to complete the necklace (take bigger jumps in size) or just put polished metal (gold or platinum, whatever you use) because, unless you have short hair or wear your hair up in an updo, those stones will not really be visible. This way, you will have concentrated most of your budget in that part of the necklace that is visible.

I also would prefer to go with bigger and fewer stones than smaller and more stones, and would play with the setting style that allows me to cover most ground with the fewest number of stones. For example, a four prong setting, which imparts a "squarish" appearance to a stone, also allows stones to sit closer together, which means you need more stones to achieve the same length. A three prong setting, which makes an individual stone appear more triangular/round, usually sits more spaced out. I think a 1ct stone ought to be safe in a 3 prong setting especially if worn at the neck, but if your jeweler thinks its concerning, I think a 6 prong setting ought to achieve the same spacing out and roundness effect while also protecting the stone better. Another option is to get a necklace that has metal links in between stones, spacing them out slightly. Have attached a pic from the internet of the same to show you what I mean. This is a bezel setting, which I am not personally a fan of, but I think it could work even with prong set stones.

Enjoy your project! I hope this helps!

single-stone-18ky-gabby-diamond-bracelet_800x800.jpg

Do you recall where you found that picture? Looks like a bracelet and I am very interested in a bezel bracelet!

I am of no help with a custom tennis bracelet. I honestly think it is much safer to buy one already made and then you know you are getting the size stones you want! If you want to make one, then I'd speak with the jeweler you want to make it. Because they source settings for tennis bracelets and necklaces, so you maybe could choose a setting that will be for certain size stones.
 
Do you recall where you found that picture? Looks like a bracelet and I am very interested in a bezel bracelet!

I am of no help with a custom tennis bracelet. I honestly think it is much safer to buy one already made and then you know you are getting the size stones you want! If you want to make one, then I'd speak with the jeweler you want to make it. Because they source settings for tennis bracelets and necklaces, so you maybe could choose a setting that will be for certain size stones.

Oh sure - it’s by single stone. Here’s the link - https://www.singlestone.com/products/gabby-bracelet

To your point about jewelers sourcing existing settings, I didn’t know that’s how it happened in the US, in India they would make the setting custom to match the stone sizes you determine. So I’m not sure if my size specifications are possible without being outrageously expensive in the US, food for thought. Still, it would look spectacular if it is indeed possible!
 
I am looking at making a customized graduated tennis necklace. Any recommendations on the sizes of the stones I need to use? I’m only 5’3”. What length would be nice? I was thinking to have 1ct as center stone, then 0.70ct or 0.75ct may be? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

It's your neck size that will determine necklace length, not your height. FWIW my wife is 5'0" and necklace lengths between 16" and 18" look great on her. One way to decide what length suits you best is to go to a store that sells gold chains and try on different lengths.

One very important point to note about diamond necklaces is the price goes up exponentially as the mm size of the diamonds increases. A relatively small change in size can make a huge difference in the price!
 
I think a 1ct centre is a really nice and substantial size for a tennis necklace! In general, I think tennis necklaces look really nice when the graduation in the front (where the focus is) is small. I would actually think of it in terms of mm size, not necessarily ct weight.

A 1ct centre will be ~6.5mm, and a difference of around 0.2mm is when most people start being able to distinguish a change in size, especially in comparison. If budget permits, I would do a 1ct centre with perhaps 0.92ct on either side (should be approx 6.2-6.25mm I believe), then grade it down to 0.82ct on either side (should be approx 5.95-6mm). That would give you a very subtle graduation that draws a lot of attention to the substantial diamond coverage near the hollow between your collarbones. Again, if budget permits, I would do a subtle graduation, going down 0.2-0.3mm with every step, until you reach enough length to cover the front part of your neck (from the part where your neck meets your shoulder on either ends). After that, you can step up the graduation to complete the necklace (take bigger jumps in size) or just put polished metal (gold or platinum, whatever you use) because, unless you have short hair or wear your hair up in an updo, those stones will not really be visible. This way, you will have concentrated most of your budget in that part of the necklace that is visible.

I also would prefer to go with bigger and fewer stones than smaller and more stones, and would play with the setting style that allows me to cover most ground with the fewest number of stones. For example, a four prong setting, which imparts a "squarish" appearance to a stone, also allows stones to sit closer together, which means you need more stones to achieve the same length. A three prong setting, which makes an individual stone appear more triangular/round, usually sits more spaced out. I think a 1ct stone ought to be safe in a 3 prong setting especially if worn at the neck, but if your jeweler thinks its concerning, I think a 6 prong setting ought to achieve the same spacing out and roundness effect while also protecting the stone better. Another option is to get a necklace that has metal links in between stones, spacing them out slightly. Have attached a pic from the internet of the same to show you what I mean. This is a bezel setting, which I am not personally a fan of, but I think it could work even with prong set stones.

Enjoy your project! I hope this helps!

single-stone-18ky-gabby-diamond-bracelet_800x800.jpg

Thank you so much for your detailed reply, really appreciate it.

I have a few questions.
1. What size/ct do you recommend to complete the necklace (the last part)? Can the size/ct of the last part be the same until the end?

2. Would 0.3mm graduation look nice?

3. I also prefer 3 prong setting, however was concerned about the 1ct. If I do 6 prong for the 1ct, and 3 prong for the rest, would it look weird?

Thank you so much for your advice.
 
It's your neck size that will determine necklace length, not your height. FWIW my wife is 5'0" and necklace lengths between 16" and 18" look great on her. One way to decide what length suits you best is to go to a store that sells gold chains and try on different lengths.

One very important point to note about diamond necklaces is the price goes up exponentially as the mm size of the diamonds increases. A relatively small change in size can make a huge difference in the price!

Thank you for the advice. Yes I am aware of the prices, hence I am starting the project now, so I can take my sweet time to play with the settings and do adjustments if needed.

What dimensions are your wife’s necklace?
 
Oh sure - it’s by single stone. Here’s the link - https://www.singlestone.com/products/gabby-bracelet

To your point about jewelers sourcing existing settings, I didn’t know that’s how it happened in the US, in India they would make the setting custom to match the stone sizes you determine. So I’m not sure if my size specifications are possible without being outrageously expensive in the US, food for thought. Still, it would look spectacular if it is indeed possible!

Thank you! Yes it would drastically increase the price to have that many mountings custom made in the US. I really think the jeweler the OP will use needs to answer these questions especially if they have made these before. I personally wouldn't consider a custom one to be done by a jeweler who isn't experienced in making them.

To @Sakuramickey , yes, all the stones should be set in the exact same setting (same number of prongs). A one carat stone wouldn't need 6 prongs.
 
Thank you so much for your detailed reply, really appreciate it.

I have a few questions.
1. What size/ct do you recommend to complete the necklace (the last part)? Can the size/ct of the last part be the same until the end?

2. Would 0.3mm graduation look nice?

3. I also prefer 3 prong setting, however was concerned about the 1ct. If I do 6 prong for the 1ct, and 3 prong for the rest, would it look weird?

Thank you so much for your advice.

I’ll have to mock something up (badly, lol, I am not an expert) to tell you what sizes I’d recommend, because I don’t have a tennis necklace (yet - and a 1ct centre is actually my goal as well, but that’s a 5y plan). But yes, I think if you wanted you can stop grading it down after a certain point. If you would like to do that, I would actually create sections of necklace where there is no grading (so, for eg, you go down in increments of 0.2-0.3mm until you reach a size that’s not too expensive - let’s say 45pts - and then you do multiple of them in a row).

I’ll post back in an hour or so after I do a mock-up for you with sizes. I can’t do something particularly well, I’m afraid, but I’ll try and make it proportional.

I think 0.3mm graduation would look good, especially at the bigger sizes. The difference would be “just” visible. I might actually reduce the graduation as the necklace gets smaller honestly because at those smaller sizes I think it would be more visible. But I’m just guessing and will give my definitive answer when I put together a “guide”.

I think you could do 6 prong centre and 3 prong sides. I don’t think it’ll look weird personally. I’ll defer to your jeweler. Are you US/Europe/Australia based or Asia/ME based? If the latter you may find it cost effective to go custom, else labour costs might make it more sensible to buy ready made.

As for length, which I forgot to answer earlier, it’ll depend on your own comfort. I’m also petite (5’2”) and I like 16” on me. You can measure your desired length with a measuring tape.

Check out this for inspo. It’s bigger than what you wanted and I don’t like the dramatic decrease in the front from 3.6 to 2ct but they also repeat stone sizes to get a more subtle graduation: https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/nec...re-necklace-5024-carat-platinum/id-j_1291183/
 
I actually mocked it up using PPT. I think I may have put too many stones in and I also did this by eye, but it looked about right to me. I took a 6.5 centre, put 6.2 on either side, went down to 5.9, and when I hit 5.6mm (about 0.7ct) I repeated a stone and then added a 5.5mm to help with the transition. In practice though, given the sizes we are talking about, I think you may be able to go straight to 5.3mm (which is around 0.58ct) and repeat that a few times. In essence, I decided to grade from 6.5mm (about 1ct) to 4.5mm (about 0.36ct) for the stones that are visible from the front. I then rapidly went from 4.5mm to about 3mm (0.10ct) to cover what I estimate would be the side of my neck, and for the back portion I went even smaller at 2.5mm (0.06ct) all the way to the end. This looks good to my eye, hope it helps you with your design! I ended up putting 88 stones in this necklace but I have no idea if thats too long or short. It's ~12.8-13" in diamond length, but with the settings that would definitely be much longer, might even be good enough to wear, or you may need a bit more length which you can adjust the number of smaller stones and achieve. Screenshot 2022-01-24 at 11.37.29 PM.png
 
Thank you! Yes it would drastically increase the price to have that many mountings custom made in the US. I really think the jeweler the OP will use needs to answer these questions especially if they have made these before. I personally wouldn't consider a custom one to be done by a jeweler who isn't experienced in making them.

To @Sakuramickey , yes, all the stones should be set in the exact same setting (same number of prongs). A one carat stone wouldn't need 6 prongs.

Thank you again for your reply. I live in Dubai, it’s possible to customize everything. I had all my diamond jewelry customized here, super happy with the workmanship. The tennis necklace will be my last diamond project
 
I actually mocked it up using PPT. I think I may have put too many stones in and I also did this by eye, but it looked about right to me. I took a 6.5 centre, put 6.2 on either side, went down to 5.9, and when I hit 5.6mm (about 0.7ct) I repeated a stone and then added a 5.5mm to help with the transition. In practice though, given the sizes we are talking about, I think you may be able to go straight to 5.3mm (which is around 0.58ct) and repeat that a few times. In essence, I decided to grade from 6.5mm (about 1ct) to 4.5mm (about 0.36ct) for the stones that are visible from the front. I then rapidly went from 4.5mm to about 3mm (0.10ct) to cover what I estimate would be the side of my neck, and for the back portion I went even smaller at 2.5mm (0.06ct) all the way to the end. This looks good to my eye, hope it helps you with your design! I ended up putting 88 stones in this necklace but I have no idea if thats too long or short. It's ~12.8-13" in diamond length, but with the settings that would definitely be much longer, might even be good enough to wear, or you may need a bit more length which you can adjust the number of smaller stones and achieve. Screenshot 2022-01-24 at 11.37.29 PM.png

Omg @AllAboardTheBlingTrain i am speechless. You are beyond amazing! Now you made my project even more fun!! I was planning to cut the sizes on a paper, attach with a glue then see how it looks on me now you made me realize there is PPT thank you thank you thank you!!

I live in Dubai. I will start speaking to my jeweler about the stones, cost etc.

I always prefer E or F color VS1. I currently have a 1ct pendant F VS1. I think I might do the same with the tennis necklace. All F VS1, until they reach smaller then 0.20ct, then I might just go with whatever. I am also obsessed having the stones certified by GIA.

Thank you for the link above. It actually made me think, what do I really like, small difference between the stones in the front or big difference between the stones?
 
Omg @AllAboardTheBlingTrain i am speechless. You are beyond amazing! Now you made my project even more fun!! I was planning to cut the sizes on a paper, attach with a glue then see how it looks on me now you made me realize there is PPT thank you thank you thank you!!

I live in Dubai. I will start speaking to my jeweler about the stones, cost etc.

I always prefer E or F color VS1. I currently have a 1ct pendant F VS1. I think I might do the same with the tennis necklace. All F VS1, until they reach smaller then 0.20ct, then I might just go with whatever. I am also obsessed having the stones certified by GIA.

Thank you for the link above. It actually made me think, what do I really like, small difference between the stones in the front or big difference between the stones?

Ofc you are so welcome! I am excited for your project as well, haha. I think F VS would look really impressive. I’d keep myself open to both VS1 and VS2 for ease of collecting stones, and perhaps also one colour grade (so either EF or FG. Personally, I would lean FG because for the smaller stones it’s hard to distinguish colour face up in a necklace anyway). So you could for eg go F VS for the front (if you’re really particular) and then at the ~0.2ct size ask the jeweler for FG VS/SI stones.

GIA certifying all those stones will be amazing! You’ll have a booklet of certificates, haha. I would probably make 0.5ct my cut off because of the cost but I don’t know if GIA does batch grading.

I think if you’re based in Dubai you will find setting pricing more palatable than in the West, so you can afford to be picky/discerning with your sizing and get it exactly to your taste.

Please do keep updating us with your progress (with pics only if you’re comfortable, but if not, text updates would be lovely) :)
 
Ofc you are so welcome! I am excited for your project as well, haha. I think F VS would look really impressive. I’d keep myself open to both VS1 and VS2 for ease of collecting stones, and perhaps also one colour grade (so either EF or FG. Personally, I would lean FG because for the smaller stones it’s hard to distinguish colour face up in a necklace anyway). So you could for eg go F VS for the front (if you’re really particular) and then at the ~0.2ct size ask the jeweler for FG VS/SI stones.

GIA certifying all those stones will be amazing! You’ll have a booklet of certificates, haha. I would probably make 0.5ct my cut off because of the cost but I don’t know if GIA does batch grading.

I think if you’re based in Dubai you will find setting pricing more palatable than in the West, so you can afford to be picky/discerning with your sizing and get it exactly to your taste.

Please do keep updating us with your progress (with pics only if you’re comfortable, but if not, text updates would be lovely) :)

I contacted my jeweler today. We agreed to start checking prices on the stones I am interested. Then once we agree, they will get the designer to design my necklace. My jeweler also had a few recommendations. I am super excited now.

I will definitely keep my progress posted here. Thank you so much @AllAboardTheBlingTrain
 
@AllAboardTheBlingTrain and others who are following this thread.

Here is drawings I received from my jeweler. This is a recommendation/ design created by them. Any feedback is highly appreciated

I like the 3 prongs settings, so the diamond looks round and not square ish. What do you think?

06344572-55C7-4336-963F-6C3CEC6E9759.jpeg
 

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I like it!

Of course, it depends on neck size, but 15" would be more of a choker on my wife.
 
I like it!

Of course, it depends on neck size, but 15" would be more of a choker on my wife.

Thank you for your reply. I said 15 cause currently my diamond pendant with chain is 16inch and I find it a little too big, hence I asked them to make 15inch. Of course I need to try a 15inch or bigger to finalize the length
 
I like the graduation! Seems subtle and most of the diamond weight is concentrated in the front, as it should be. I also like the three prong setting.

15in would be the perfect length for me to hit me at a bit under the hollow of my neck. Choker length on me is 14” if I want it to go to the hollow of the neck or less if I want it around my throat. If 16” is long for you with a pendant, I think 15 or 15.5 would be comfortable for you!

Edit: only thing I might want to point out is that 6.25 to 5.85 is the most significant drop and it’s right in front. When I stared at the pic a bit longer, it became obvious to me. If you like a centre that is visibly bigger, leave it as is, but if not, you may need to tweak sizes slightly (go from 5.85 to 5.95 for example).
 
I like the graduation! Seems subtle and most of the diamond weight is concentrated in the front, as it should be. I also like the three prong setting.

15in would be the perfect length for me to hit me at a bit under the hollow of my neck. Choker length on me is 14” if I want it to go to the hollow of the neck or less if I want it around my throat. If 16” is long for you with a pendant, I think 15 or 15.5 would be comfortable for you!

Edit: only thing I might want to point out is that 6.25 to 5.85 is the most significant drop and it’s right in front. When I stared at the pic a bit longer, it became obvious to me. If you like a centre that is visibly bigger, leave it as is, but if not, you may need to tweak sizes slightly (go from 5.85 to 5.95 for example).

Thank you for your reply. I will check with my jeweler and see what we can do.

Now I am thinking if I should also get the CAD in 4 prongs to see how it looks like :doh::doh:
 
I like the three prong setting style a lot. I think this style will be better for preventing the necklace from flipping.

This is just personal preference, but I think the rate of gradation in your jeweler's design is too large (the stair steps in size are too drastic.) But if you like it that way, that is totally legitimate, go for it.
 
I like the three prong setting style a lot. I think this style will be better for preventing the necklace from flipping.

This is just personal preference, but I think the rate of gradation in your jeweler's design is too large (the stair steps in size are too drastic.) But if you like it that way, that is totally legitimate, go for it.

Thank you for your reply. Can you please let me which stones you are referring to? So I can double check with my jeweler. Thank you
 
@AllAboardTheBlingTrain and others who are following this thread.

Here is drawings I received from my jeweler. This is a recommendation/ design created by them. Any feedback is highly appreciated

I like the 3 prongs settings, so the diamond looks round and not square ish. What do you think?

06344572-55C7-4336-963F-6C3CEC6E9759.jpeg

Hello! I just found your thread and was curious if you have any updates you’d be willing to share. It has been very helpful to read the advice and thought processes so far and I’d love to see any other CAD designs you considered or the final direction you went! Thank you!!
 

I love this one! price is high though. You could have yours done like this.

I am 5' 1 1/2" and have a smaller neck. I like my tennis necklaces around 15.5" - 16" inches. I used to have one at 14.5" and it was super super tight. I think for comfort, you may want at least 15" or 15.5".
 
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Hi, here is my update.

My quotation for the necklace starting with 1ct came close to 90KUSD. Which is sadly way above my budget.

I spoke to my jeweler, and they redesigned with 0.87 and 0.63. The 0.87ct is about 45KUSD and 0.63ct about 40KUSD. So i am thinking to go ahead with 0.87ct.

what do you think? below are the number of stones.

Also what do you think of the prices? are these good price?

Appreciate your input. thank you.

0.8ct.jpeg
 
Have you tried one on to make sure you like it, most of them flip over and are uncomfortable to wear.
 
Have you tried one on to make sure you like it, most of them flip over and are uncomfortable to wear.

No, I have never tried on any. Just wanted to have one after looking at pictures of others wearing. I do however plan to try one in the shop before I place an order for mine.

What other options for diamond necklaces ? I currently only own a solitaire pendant necklace.
 
No, I have never tried on any. Just wanted to have one after looking at pictures of others wearing. I do however plan to try one in the shop before I place an order for mine.

What other options for diamond necklaces ? I currently only own a solitaire pendant necklace.

Try on as many riviera necklaces as you can. The design is key. The graduated style is the least flippy, but you may want your jeweler to solder a few of the front diamonds together to minimize flipping.
 
Besides the flipping ...

The hand moves a zillion times more than a head does.
It looks goofy when a pendant (affixed to the chain) moves off-center on the throat/neck.

A bracelet will be much worse.
You'll have to constantly fix it (spin it around) so the biggest diamond is in the centered position, like it is in the marketing pics.

The ads are clever to show the largest diamond in the center, and never behind the wrist.

Maybe that won't bother you.
But it's something to consider before you buy it rather than after.
 
Try on as many riviera necklaces as you can. The design is key. The graduated style is the least flippy, but you may want your jeweler to solder a few of the front diamonds together to minimize flipping.

ohh i wasnt aware of that at all!! was simply excited to add a diamond necklace in my collection. What about diamond necklace with all same size stones?

Any suggestions for which settings are the best to avoid flipping?
 
Besides the flipping ...

The hand moves a zillion times more than a head does.
It looks goofy when a pendant (affixed to the chain) moves off-center on the throat/neck.

A bracelet will be much worse.
You'll have to constantly fix it (spin it around) so the biggest diamond is in the centered position, like it is in the marketing pics.

The ads are clever to show the largest diamond in the center, and never behind the wrist.

Maybe that won't bother you.
But it's something to consider before you buy it rather than after.

what settings do you recommend for graduated necklace to avoid flipping.

I simply fall in love in the graduated necklace after seeing those gorgeous marketing photos out there :think:
 
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