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Thinking of going custom, thoughts?

julchak

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 3, 2021
Messages
52
Hey everyone,

I've had a few posts seeking advice from all of you pros out there in my search of the right setting for my proposal.

Between posts I've gotten feedback from various trips to jewelers with my girlfriend, and talking about her thoughts on various looks/features.

The highlights of what I've found she likes so far:
  • Rose gold
  • Not too tall off of her finger - this Tacori setting was too tall for her liking.
  • Round or Oval center stone
  • She does not like "excessive bling"
  • She appreciates accents and details on the side which are "for her"/she can easily see from the side but not when looking straight down. She also likes the little single accent stone which Tacori and A. Jaffe put on the 4 O'clock position of the shank.
  • She likes including floral elements (leaf pedals) - though I will note that there are some floral settings which I just don't like - those which are overly done and take away from some of the elegance, and just become a vine with leaves I think are a bit too floral.
    • 1640892013916.png
  • She likes some pave stones, though has been okay not having those as well...
  • She likes the Vintage look, and has noted her liking the (what I'm calling) "Vintage Trellis" in the gallery such as below:
    • 1640892127931.png
  • She also likes the idea of having a celtic knot design in the gallery area similar to below:
    • 1640892198276.png

Some of her favorite settings so far include:
  1. ASHI
    • Floral leaves
    • Celtic knot'ish gallery
    • Sits lower than Tacori
    • Intricate engraving/milgrain on side for "her"
  2. Primrose - Brilliant Earth
    • I'm not sure exactly what she likes in this one, but here are things I like:
      • Curved prongs
      • Pear-shaped sidestones forming the leaf shapes
      • Open area in gallery to let in light for diamond
  3. Amorette - Sylvie
    • Vintage trellis
    • Intricate engraving on side for "her"

I think that so far her favorite has been the ASHI which we happened to see in a store.

Needless to say the ASHI doesn't totally fit the bill as it does not come in rose gold. Yes, I could have them make it in rose gold however I would prefer to buy from White Flash or Brian Gavin to have their diamond selection and support.

I think that going custom might be a good option - White Flash cannot do custom orders currently, however BG can.

I have put together some slides showing detail features of some of the various rings out there which her/I like, and then threw the ASHI as my base ring into photoshop and have played around with some options.

I'd like to have people let me know their thoughts on:
  1. Is going custom through Brian Gavin a good idea or bad idea? Any experience doing so?
  2. Are there any other settings which I may have missed in my search which are along the lines of what I've described above?
  3. What are your thoughts on my various renderings from Photoshop? Are any just waay too much (in terms of things going on)? Any stand out? Anything you think I could modify/tweak to make it better?
Attached is a PDF with the design work so far.

Look forward to hearing everyone's advice here!


Thanks,

Jeff
 

Attachments

Does ASHI sell the settings without the center stone? If she likes the ASHI setting as-is and the only change is the metal color, I wouldn't go custom. There are always uncertainties with custom, and things might not turn out exactly the way you or she envisions. I would buy the diamond from WF or BGD and the setting from ASHI if that's an option.
 
Just to toss another option out there, here's a vendor who sells a ring with the leaf/marquise sides. They say they do custom work, so it may be worth inquiring. Note: I haven't worked with them before so I can't vouch for their craftsmanship. But it's my holy grail setting so I thought I should share =)2


And here's a different version with prong set sides instead of bezels. It's a marquise center in the pic, but it'll give an idea of what their rose gold option could look like.


ETA: Oh here we go. Here's a version with a surprise stone on the basket.
The extra flower thing makes it seem like the center would sit pretty high though. Maybe the jeweler can remove that?
 
Just to toss another option out there, here's a vendor who sells a ring with the leaf/marquise sides. They say they do custom work, so it may be worth inquiring. Note: I haven't worked with them before so I can't vouch for their craftsmanship. But it's my holy grail setting so I thought I should share =)2


And here's a different version with prong set sides instead of bezels. It's a marquise center in the pic, but it'll give an idea of what their rose gold option could look like.


ETA: Oh here we go. Here's a version with a surprise stone on the basket.
The extra flower thing makes it seem like the center would sit pretty high though. Maybe the jeweler can remove that?

Thanks! Is Joseph Jewelry a recommended vendor around here?
 
Does ASHI sell the settings without the center stone? If she likes the ASHI setting as-is and the only change is the metal color, I wouldn't go custom. There are always uncertainties with custom, and things might not turn out exactly the way you or she envisions. I would buy the diamond from WF or BGD and the setting from ASHI if that's an option.

Inquiring about getting the setting in rose gold alone without the center stone.

Fortunately she does not know I'm considering custom - I've just taken in all of the input she's given me and am trying to make something special for her that captures everything she likes in a unique way.

If I can get the setting alone though it might not be a bad option. I was hoping to buy it all through one vendor though so I could get their full warranty/maintenance package (if it came with it) - I know the custom route through BG would have that, and the lead time was 4 business weeks which would probably be on par with getting the pre-existing ASHI custom done in rose gold.

There certainly are risks with going custom though, I'm trying to address those by doing as much legwork on the front end of the design here with my photoshop renderings, but am also clarifying with BG how the process works if their CAD renderings are just not close to what I am going for (even with all my front end work that I'm providing).

Has anyone had experience with custom BG engagement rings?
 
Can you post an image of your attachment?
You'll probably get more help/input. Most people don't like to have to download
Attachments on their computers.
 
Also, what is your budget for the setting?
 
Can you post an image of your attachment?
You'll probably get more help/input. Most people don't like to have to download
Attachments on their computers.
Ah good point. Below is my favorite rendering which I'm leaning towards:
Render 5.pngPrecious Custom Design - Top view.png
(left side of this one has rounded corners on the shank - floral transition)

Also, what is your budget for the setting?

All in with a center stone I'm looking around $7.5k. I want a 0.85 - 1.1 ct center stone (K+ color, VS2+ clarity, Brian Gavin ideal cut), if I can make it work). They initially estimated it could be around $2.6k for the setting, I'm fine if it is up to $3k with my additions above, leaving $4.5k for a center stone.
 
I think…. You’ve gone through a lot of trouble pinpointing exactly what she wants and I commend you on that.

(My husband looked at some pictures and pointed at elements without thinking much)

I like your rendering. It’s a very specific, detailed ring you’ve picked out for her. And I love the romance of it, even though custom rings can have their pitfalls. I think it’s worth it in this case for the sentiment alone.

I have had several custom pieces with different designers. Have had work done by WF, Leon Mege, Maytal Hannah and BG. I have not had any issues with any of them.

I think the important thing is to know who you are working with and their style.

I think some jewelers are more adept at making specific “styles of rings”. Your ring (to me) is a Tacori/ vintage style ring miligrain etc. there’s certain jewelers that I associate with that “style” so that’s who I would ask for this particular custom setting for.

I associate Brian Gauvin settings as being modern, fluid and sleek. It certainly doesn’t mean they don’t do vintage/elaborate, I just haven’t seen many examples of it.

I would ask them to send you some portfolio pics of settings they have done in this style with miligrain, and scrollwork, to see examples. If you are happy with their execution of it, then I have no hesitation about proceeding with custom work.
 
I think…. You’ve gone through a lot of trouble pinpointing exactly what she wants and I commend you on that.

(My husband looked at some pictures and pointed at elements without thinking much)

I like your rendering. It’s a very specific, detailed ring you’ve picked out for her. And I love the romance of it, even though custom rings can have their pitfalls. I think it’s worth it in this case for the sentiment alone.

I have had several custom pieces with different designers. Have had work done by WF, Leon Mege, Maytal Hannah and BG. I have not had any issues with any of them.

I think the important thing is to know who you are working with and their style.

I think some jewelers are more adept at making specific “styles of rings”. Your ring (to me) is a Tacori/ vintage style ring miligrain etc. there’s certain jewelers that I associate with that “style” so that’s who I would ask for this particular custom setting for.

I associate Brian Gauvin settings as being modern, fluid and sleek. It certainly doesn’t mean they don’t do vintage/elaborate, I just haven’t seen many examples of it.

I would ask them to send you some portfolio pics of settings they have done in this style with miligrain, and scrollwork, to see examples. If you are happy with their execution of it, then I have no hesitation about proceeding with custom work.

Thank you for taking the time to look at my renderings and giving me some feedback!

You know what, you are spot on with BG having a different style typically. It was something that was in the back of my mind but I never really thought about it fully until now. I was talking with WF, trying to get them to do the custom design but they are all booked up and don't have the staff to take on any more projects at the moment. I've sent them this final rendering (made a few changes, the current version is shown below) with another attempt to get them to take it on as I feel that their previous designs might lend themselves more to this vintage milgrain look and feel.

I was also having WF look into getting a slight modification on a Tacori ring earlier in my search here, and have asked if they could pass this new custom design onto Tacori to see if it is something which they would be willing to take on (though I feel like their "custom" projects are intended for combining features of pre-existing rings in their catalogue as opposed to fully customized options).

I've even gone ahead and forwarded a custom request to ASHI and Sylvie (as I like some of their rings and some incorporate bits of this design). I'll pass it onto some of the other designers which WF carries as well.

Thanks for this advice though, it has made me realize that getting the right team to design this will be important. I've been trying to see BG's portfolio but their blog is down, if anyone has a link to their previous custom jobs that would be awesome!


Thanks!


-Jeff

Render 10.pngPrecious Custom Design - Top view.png
 
I can agree with @allycat0303 . This style doesn't seem like BG style...but doesn't mean they cant do it.

David Klass has done this style but he is more about doing what you say and not designing a ring for you so it helps when
the person designing the ring (you) has some experience with custom designs.

Anyway...here is a ring that he did that is similar. Tell him rose gold, add pave down the shank, add some curly Qs in the gallery area
and maybe change the round pave in the leaves to marquise shape stones.

Just want to say (which you can totally ignore)...sometimes less is more. When you go throwing in everything someone likes and
try to get it to work together...well, it just doesn't. Maybe pick out the things that are the most important to her/you and incorporate
those few items. Also, watch to make sure the setting doesn't get too high off her finger.


Similar shank
 
I can agree with @allycat0303 . This style doesn't seem like BG style...but doesn't mean they cant do it.

David Klass has done this style but he is more about doing what you say and not designing a ring for you so it helps when
the person designing the ring (you) has some experience with custom designs.

Anyway...here is a ring that he did that is similar. Tell him rose gold, add pave down the shank, add some curly Qs in the gallery area
and maybe change the round pave in the leaves to marquise shape stones.

Just want to say (which you can totally ignore)...sometimes less is more. When you go throwing in everything someone likes and
try to get it to work together...well, it just doesn't. Maybe pick out the things that are the most important to her/you and incorporate
those few items. Also, watch to make sure the setting doesn't get too high off her finger.


Similar shank

Thanks so much for your thoughts here!

Yeah, I don't know if I've gone overboard, I'm hoping not! The base ring hasn't changed too much, I've just added in the scrollwork and a couple of accent stones, though the scrollwork does add some intricacy, however she seems to enjoy those little details. The "celtic knot" floral thing in the gallery was in the original design from ASHI, I just added the accent stones.

Wow David Klass's rings are VERY similar here, hmm, going to have to reach out! Thanks for passing this along!
 
I would specify if you'd like a halo or not. The Ashi ring is a cluster
 
Your wife to be is going to have to wear her ER every day for the rest of her life. With 40 years of happily married life behind me, my strong advice is to get her totally involved in this process, so you don't make a huge mistake. The result of such an error is that initially she will say she loves her new ring so as not to hurt your feelings. Then, a few years from now she'll be talking about an upgrade, and that will be your $7.5K down the drain. :eek-2: You may think the diamond ring you chose is perfect but, to be honest, your opinion is of no consequence whatsoever. Her opinion is the only one that counts!!! You need to make sure your love is going to love HER diamond ring. This should be your main focus!

Points to discuss with her to help bring her into the process might be:

Is she OK with spending $3K on the setting when, with a $7.5K total budget, this leaves only $4.5k for a smaller diamond?

Is she OK with buying a super-ideal diamond when, again this means a smaller diamond? Maybe go the super-ideal route on a suitable anniversary when you can afford to upgrade to a bigger diamond?

Is she OK with all these adornments on the setting that increase the cost of the setting, and again mean a smaller diamond?

I say this because I remember seeing studies that show the vast majority of ladies think, as long as it sparkles, the most important quality of a diamond is its size! :mrgreen2:
 
Is she OK with spending $3K on the setting when, with a $7.5K total budget, this leaves only $4.5k for a smaller diamond?

This is a very important question!

For reference, most people here would prioritize their budget towards the diamond. While the setting matters too, many would prefer the 1.1ct or larger diamond in a simple setting to a 0.85ct in a custom setting.

IMHO it is preferable to get a nicer diamond in a setting she likes now that doesn't cut into the diamond budget too much. Later you can do a custom setting she likes as an upgrade if she wishes to down the track. That way she
can be fully involved in the design and will also know what she wants also from a practical perspective - matters like setting height, ease of cleaning (intricate settings are harder to clean), prongs (4 or 6 both the look and security perspective) etc. Also remember what she may want in a ring now may be quite different to say 5, 10 or 20 years later, fashion and preferences change over time.
 
I may have missed it but did you say if she wants her wedding band to sit flush with the ER or not? That's very important. Some people like having a gap, others do not. Your design looks like there will be a gap between the two rings and if that isn't something that she likes, this whole process will be for naught.
 
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