Thoughts on Buying Setting from Local Jeweler?

[julchak]

Hi all,

I've had a few posts as I've been trekking through the journey of finding the right setting for my proposal to my girlfriend.

She has no intention of ever upgrading/changing anything and is truly of the mindset that whatever I give her will be too special to ever want to change. She also would really appreciate having custom touches that make the ring a one-of-a-king unique piece.

I've found a ring that she really likes at a jewelry store nearby, unfortunately it is part of "their" collection and I don't have any information on who makes the ring, what the quality is, etc. She has liked rings in rose gold so I am currently getting pricing from them to make it in rose gold with platinum prongs (to better secure the center stone), and reducing the pave diamonds on the band to wrap only halfway around (not 3/4 as the original version has). The current price of the platinum version if over my budget, at $4,300. I am looking to spend all in ~$7.5k with the center stone.

As I await pricing for the material change and fewer diamonds from this jewelry store (a more stablished local chain), I have reached out to a jeweler who a friend referred me to. He has worked in the Boston area as a jeweler for 60 years, ran his own store for 30 years, and now just does small custom rings in a small shop with one other employee. He used to work for some of the larger local jewelry stores here doing their custom work. He seems to have a LOT of experience, he made my friend's band and his sister-in-law's engagement ring (he is related to the sister in law). He can replicate the ring, adding the platinum basket/prongs and making the pave wrap only halfway around and gave me an estimate of $1,700. He said he could provide a center stone, but was very excited when I mentioned that I have one (if I go through him I plan on purchasing one from WF).

I feel like I could potentially get a stronger, better made ring from this gentleman than the version at the local store (which does not have any indication as to who makes the ring).

I am a little concerned about not going through WF, Brian Gavin, or even this local chain jewelry store for the setting when it comes to warranty work, etc. I know this gentleman would help me out if we needed it, however if I'm being honest...I don't know how long he will be around (as horrible as that sounds - with experience comes age...) to support us with our purchase.

I figure I could purchase an insurance plan which covers damage, etc. from Jewelers Mutual Group, but I would still need to work out getting regular cleanings somewhere which would not be included.

What are your thoughts here?

Photos of the ring for reference:











Thanks,

Jeff

 

[foxinsox]

Do you have any pictures of his pavé work? The ring you’re considering will succeed or fail on how well that is done and just because he is an experienced jeweller, doesn’t mean he’s actually very good at pave.
As an aside, I’d recommend not having pave on the prongs (tiny hole in prongs does not augur well for structural integrity) and also consider what those side diamonds under the basket will do to any ring placed next to this one, like a wedding band. If your fiancée wants a diamond band, you’ll need a spacer to ensure the diamonds don’t eat each other and even a non-diamond band will likely get somewhat chewed if there is contact.
Otherwise it’s a pretty setting though it’s not super unique. If you’re already looking at getting it made elsewhere, do WF have a similar setting or could you get DK to make it?

 

[julchak]

Do you have any pictures of his pavé work? The ring you’re considering will succeed or fail on how well that is done and just because he is an experienced jeweller, doesn’t mean he’s actually very good at pave.
As an aside, I’d recommend not having pave on the prongs (tiny hole in prongs does not augur well for structural integrity) and also consider what those side diamonds under the basket will do to any ring placed next to this one, like a wedding band. If your fiancée wants a diamond band, you’ll need a spacer to ensure the diamonds don’t eat each other and even a non-diamond band will likely get somewhat chewed if there is contact.
Otherwise it’s a pretty setting though it’s not super unique. If you’re already looking at getting it made elsewhere, do WF have a similar setting or could you get DK to make it?

Hey, yeah I'm going to go to his shop today and see what he has going on and better gauge his workmanship.

We did talk with the jewelry store about the side accent stone and how that would go with a band. She does want a straight band and was okay with having it cover the stone a bit, maybe that is something I can ask the custom jeweler what he could do about that or what we could do with the band for that.

 

[denverappraiser]

That's not a particularly easy ring to make and, from what I can see in the pictures, whoever did that one did a nice job. Craftsmanship makes a big difference on these things. If you're considering hiring someone to make a knockoff, make sure they've got the skills to do this well and are using the same materials and techniques. There IS an advantage to buying from a 'real' store in that you can look in the showcase at things they've made and get a feel for their craftsmanship. Look for a complex-looking piece with a ton of little diamonds on it and inspect it under magnification. Ask 'em to show you one that they're proud of and tell them flat out what you're doing. Maybe even have them point out the more difficult parts.

Cleaning is a non-issue. Any good jeweler will do it for you, as a way to sell potential repairs if nothing else. Buy insurance anyway. The coverages are significantly different from typical warranties.

 

[headlight]

That is a really pretty ring. I agree with @foxinsox in that you don’t need some of these extra details which may just be problematic in the long run. Regardless of including those or not, I’m not totally against this veteran jeweler you know making the ring. I would just get an idea of what his completed pieces look like. Certainly his overhead is nothing like the store so you will save there. I do agree with @denverappraiser in that the picture you’ve provided looks very good.
Question: what size diamond are you considering? This design has a lot going on and if the diamond isn’t of a certain size it will overwhelm the stone. In that case you need to have this design adapted to a version of smaller proportions. With regard to rose gold in conjunction that your girlfriend will never want to change her ring, keep in mind that rose gold may go out of popularity. You are safest with platinum as for timeliness. Another thing to consider as mentioned previously is to have the whole thing done by the vendor you get the stone from and if you are going with WF or BGD to just get a ring from them. They do custom work. And they do quality work… they don’t put the finest quality diamonds in subpar mountings! BGD quality of mountings is exceptional.

 

[julchak]

That is a really pretty ring. I agree with @foxinsox in that you don’t need some of these extra details which may just be problematic in the long run. Regardless of including those or not, I’m not totally against this veteran jeweler you know making the ring. I would just get an idea of what his completed pieces look like. Certainly his overhead is nothing like the store so you will save there. I do agree with @denverappraiser in that the picture you’ve provided looks very good.
Question: what size diamond are you considering? This design has a lot going on and if the diamond isn’t of a certain size it will overwhelm the stone. In that case you need to have this design adapted to a version of smaller proportions. With regard to rose gold in conjunction that your girlfriend will never want to change her ring, keep in mind that rose gold may go out of popularity. You are safest with platinum as for timeliness. Another thing to consider as mentioned previously is to have the whole thing done by the vendor you get the stone from and if you are going with WF or BGD to just get a ring from them. They do custom work. And they do quality work… they don’t put the finest quality diamonds in subpar mountings! BGD quality of mountings is exceptional.

So the expert jeweler actually emailed me and even just recommended that if there is a place making this ring that it would probably be best to just have them do it. He said he could do it for me, but he was honest in that I could get what I know I want from this vendor.

I was able to speak directly with the ring manufacturer who I found out is C. Gonshor and they pointed me to one of their preferred sellers - Diamond's Direct. I am getting some pricing from them for this ring in all 14k Rose Gold with J/K VS melee stones which only wrap halfway around.

My plan is to get around a 1ct round center stone.

I have been in discussion with WF about having A. Jaffe make a similar style ring, as one of their existing settings is very similar. I actually just got CAD from them today (below). I have asked to go with all rose gold and have the melees put at SI rather than VS G/H and they priced it at $3,115 which is in the ballpark of where I think it'll be from C. Gonshor.



I am a bit leery of purchasing my diamond through Diamond's Direct though - their prices seem high for what you're getting based on what I'm looking through. SO either I get the Gonshor setting from them and have them set a diamond I buy online, or I go through WF to get the custom A. Jaffe similar setting and get a WF center stone.

I'm leaning towards sticking with the original designer on this, just want to air my process and see if anyone has any thoughts.

I've also eyed some center stones at James Allen and then on Rare Carat where I've found some amazing deals but don't know if they are a good place to go to.

 

[lovedogs]

Go through WF for everything. It will be so much easier, and you will have better customer service. Cleanings are a non issue because you can clean your ring at home and/or walk into any jewelry store and have them clean the ring for free.

 

[julchak]

Go through WF for everything. It will be so much easier, and you will have better customer service. Cleanings are a non issue because you can clean your ring at home and/or walk into any jewelry store and have them clean the ring for free.

I just got pricing back from Diamond's Direct for the customized Gonshor ring and it's $3k. Very close to WF's custom A. Jaffe which looks similar.

I would just get it all through WF, though I'm hesitating as I know my girlfriend loves the Gonshor and though this custom one is very similar, I'm hoping there wouldn't be since details she isn't a fan of. On the other side of it, she likes the idea of something unique (which both have become with my customizations). What are your thoughts on any differences you see between the two settings?

The other question is... Buying from either with custom settings lends to no refunds. Getting the diamond through WF will give me the upgrade policy. Buying from Diamond's Direct gives me their lifetime warranty which includes lifetime resizing, repairs, and melee stone replacement (which sounds great if they actually honor that), I'd just have to deal with getting the center stone separately and sending it to them which is a little sketchy.

Or if I feel good enough about the AJaffe, I get that and a ring care package from jeweler's mutual if I go all through WF.

Any words of wisdom /guidance based on experience?

 

[lulu_ma]

I don't know that much about Diamonds Direct. The setting your girlfriend wants is very pretty. But at the end of the day, the center stone will be the star of the show, so to speak. If you get an ACA from Whiteflash, you will be getting a center stone with a primo, super ideal cut.

 

[julchak]

I don't know that much about Diamonds Direct. The setting your girlfriend wants is very pretty. But at the end of the day, the center stone will be the star of the show, so to speak. If you get an ACA from Whiteflash, you will be getting a center stone with a primo, super ideal cut.

Any recommendations for if I get the setting at a store (diamonds direct) and ship them the stone separately, getting that from WF?

 

[lulu_ma]

Any recommendations for if I get the setting at a store (diamonds direct) and ship them the stone separately, getting that from WF?

I would just get it all at Whiteflash. Then you don’t have the hassle of having to insure and ship an expensive diamond or setting back and forth. Just less liability imo.

 

[lovedogs]

I would just get it all at Whiteflash. Then you don’t have the hassle of having to insure and ship an expensive diamond or setting back and forth. Just less liability imo.

exactly. Involving multiple vendors increases the liklihood of issues.

 

[chere]

Warranty and local service is something to consider. I take my rings in every 6 months to get inspected and cleaned. And I can get my ring polished or repaired overnight if I need it in a rush.

I've found a ring that she really likes at a jewelry store nearby,

Have you tried contacting this jeweler ^ to see if they can price match the Diamond's Direct pricing?

 

[blingmeupscotty]

I would one stop shop it at Whiteflash. I've also heard they have an upgrade policy? With something as intricate as that [the pave is going to make or break you], you can't afford to piecemail it together. Get your design and center stone from a trusted vendor that knows what they are doing, that will provide a warranty on the craftsmanship-and is more well known that is not a brick retail facility.

 

[julchak]

I would one stop shop it at Whiteflash. I've also heard they have an upgrade policy? With something as intricate as that [the pave is going to make or break you], you can't afford to piecemail it together. Get your design and center stone from a trusted vendor that knows what they are doing, that will provide a warranty on the craftsmanship-and is more well known that is not a brick retail facility.

So I ended up not really fully liking the custom design from A. Jaffe (through WF), I asked for some small changes but they weren't going to do that. I didn't want to have something that didn't capture what I knew my girlfriend loved from C. Gonshor, so I ended up getting a center stone from WF which I have insurance on. I will be getting a customized version of the C. Gonshor setting from Diamond's Direct (who is brick and mortar, they have a number of stores around and seem to have really good warranty policies for free repairs, stone replacement, prong tightening, etc. whenever I need).

The stone comes in Friday, I will inspect it and then ship it to Diamond's Direct (covered by insurance I purchased), they will handle it from there and send it to the designer C. Gonshor for her to build the setting I want around it (at the best price I could get anywhere). I will then have them send me the appraisal for the setting and will increase the insurance once they send it back to me.

It's more of a process than I'd like, but this way I still get the lifetime stone upgrade, along with an ACA stone from WF, I get the setting my girlfriend loved with no questions about it, customized for me at the best price I could get it at, and from a reputable brick and mortar who has a really good lifetime warranty policy.

We may be moving in the next year or so, so getting it from a local store wasn't really important. Diamond's Direct has locations around where we might move, as well as all over the US, and can work online/through mailing for repairs, etc.

It's an arduous way to get there, but I'm excited to see the final product!

Thanks for the help everyone!