shape
carat
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clarity

Thoughts on this pear?

joey_v

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 18, 2008
Messages
222
3.01 D IF
12.99x7.88
GIA

Was looking for a knockout center stone, maybe for solitaire or halo. 10y ring for my wife.

I didn’t want to compromise on the specs, I want an heirloom piece.

Thoughts?

Looks pretty good to me.

3.01 Pear
 
Wow, what a diamond! I suppose you want the strong blue UV fluorescence. If you are aware that on this diamond it is not generally considered a plus in the "features column", then you are okay. It may make the diamond more difficult to re-sell at some distant future date, but that can't be solidly predicted. Some people want fluorescence. I suppose you do, too. The diamond I wear is strongly fluourescent.

With the diamond being so free of inclusions, there should be no cloudiness apparent. Just ask about that and look it over immediately when you get it to be certain you like the fluorescent effect when it happens.
 
Yeah I’m not sure of the strong flourescence

I glossed over it

Is that a negative if I’m trying to buy a high spec piece?
 
Or this one?

Less clarity unfortunately.
But no flourescence and bigger.

3.51 D VS2 Pear
 
This is what you said in one of your other threads:
849A50DC-514A-409D-B732-3B83E299B0F3.jpeg

You have stated numerous times that you personally don’t care whether a stone is lab vs. mined.

So has your wife changed her mind and now wants a mined diamond?

Or is this in addition to the 6ct oval lab stone and the 3ct lab pear you’ve already purchased, the latter of which is the basically this same size and is smaller than she prefers?
 
we were thinking of consolidating the two into a midsize pear
Just keeping options open
Pricing for a D IF or Flawless is reasonable from what I see and a 4ct or > 3ct pear seems large enough
 
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Speaking in general- not about any specific stone under discussion:
Strong Blue on a D colored, high clarity stone can result in as much as 50% devaluation. It's an incredibly important aspect in terms of pricing.
 
we were thinking of consolidating the two into a midsize pear
Just keeping options open
Pricing for a D IF or Flawless is reasonable from what I see and a 4ct or > 3ct pear seems large enough

To be honest at a certain point you’re sending folks on a bit of a wild goose chase helping you choose. Some flip flopping is a natural part of the selection process of course, but some of your options are pretty different. Many people on this forum sharply distinguish between lab and mined.

It might be worth sitting down and really deciding what you’re looking for once and for all. It sounds like she definitely wants a pear, so that box is checked. But what kind of pear? This one is much longer and thinner than the one you bought and she tried on.

And deciding whether you want mind or not is going to really impact the size you can get based on budget of course

My personal thoughts:
  • IF clarity is total overkill generally
  • I would not want strong flouro in a D colored diamond.
  • I’d much rather have a slightly bigger E-F color and vs1-vs2
  • If your goal is “heirloom quality” MMD wouldn’t be on the table for me at all
 
we were thinking of consolidating the two into a midsize pear
Just keeping options open
Pricing for a D IF or Flawless is reasonable from what I see and a 4ct or > 3ct pear seems large enough

But if she felt the 3ct lab pear was smaller than she wanted then the same size of mined diamond doesn’t resolve that.

Add me to the list of people who would not want strong fluor in a D. Not a stone that I’m spending meaningful (to me) money on. And I think 3.5+ is probably a “safer” size range.
 
I love strong fluorescence on a D. I have one (VVS1). Nothing wrong with getting a stone with fluorescence if you like yourself. There was a GIA study that it is very rare for the strong fluorescence to cause problems especially if the stone is not cloudy to begin with.
 
To be honest at a certain point you’re sending folks on a bit of a wild goose chase helping you choose. Some flip flopping is a natural part of the selection process of course, but some of your options are pretty different. Many people on this forum sharply distinguish between lab and mined.

It might be worth sitting down and really deciding what you’re looking for once and for all. It sounds like she definitely wants a pear, so that box is checked. But what kind of pear? This one is much longer and thinner than the one you bought and she tried on.

And deciding whether you want mind or not is going to really impact the size you can get based on budget of course

My personal thoughts:
  • IF clarity is total overkill generally
  • I would not want strong flouro in a D colored diamond.
  • I’d much rather have a slightly bigger E-F color and vs1-vs2
  • If your goal is “heirloom quality” MMD wouldn’t be on the table for me at all
Just exploring options.
The 3.01 D IF is gone, so that’s a moot point.
 
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From my perspective:
I love strong fluorescence on a D.

Me too. Because I know I'll have the cutter on his back foot in terms of the price.

There was a GIA study that it is very rare for the strong fluorescence to cause problems especially if the stone is not cloudy to begin with.

I disagree with this logic. There are absolutely gorgeous D-E-F Strong blue diamonds....but they are not as common as Strong Blue stones with issues that put me off.
 
Speaking in general- not about any specific stone under discussion:
Strong Blue on a D colored, high clarity stone can result in as much as 50% devaluation. It's an incredibly important aspect in terms of pricing.
Question Rock
What about medium flourescence? Not adviseable on a D?
 
Question Rock
What about medium flourescence? Not adviseable on a D?

There are so many variables that a stock answer will be wrong much of the time.
The issue is a combination of cost and appearance factors. As an example- A J colored diamond with medium or strong blue can actually trade at a higher price than an inert stone ( in rare cases).
The reasons have to do with prices more than anything else. A D color starts out at an exponentially higher price than the J. There's a different market between J colored and D colored buyers.

Look- if there were easy answers, how could I ever earn the big bucks....hahahah
 
There are so many variables that a stock answer will be wrong much of the time.
The issue is a combination of cost and appearance factors. As an example- A J colored diamond with medium or strong blue can actually trade at a higher price than an inert stone ( in rare cases).
The reasons have to do with prices more than anything else. A D color starts out at an exponentially higher price than the J. There's a different market between J colored and D colored buyers.

Look- if there were easy answers, how could I ever earn the big bucks....hahahah

I read between the lines
I understand
Thx Rock
 
I completely understand the exploring options pov. This is a lot of money but also a huge deal because of the sentimental value that it will inevitably take on.

My thoughts and personal preferences-
- I would not go above faint fluorescence in a colorless stone.
-make sure to see ideal scope and aset images for insight on performance. Pears are a beautiful cut but trickier in the performance departments…
- definitely would prefer natural vs mmd if objective was to be an heirloom piece.
-don’t feel too bad that the first stone is no longer available. It was super narrow and thin at the top in comparison with the more typically proportioned stone you mentioned in previous thread that your wife liked, somewhere within the 1:5 or 1:6 length width ratio range.
The faceting differences from top to bottom are exaggerated too much.
- I would consider working with someone like Yekutiel from IDJ, who is experienced, competitively priced, has access to many stones, and is super familiar with us pricescoper types … ;-) You are doing a LOT of legwork online and and perhaps would appreciate and benefit from guidance - he could professionally vet stones out for you within your budget and preferred specs.
 
From my perspective:


Me too. Because I know I'll have the cutter on his back foot in terms of the price.



I disagree with this logic. There are absolutely gorgeous D-E-F Strong blue diamonds....but they are not as common as Strong Blue stones with issues that put me off.

Interesting! I’d love to hear more of your experiences. I could not quickly find the GIA study I was referring to, but this has much of the same info in a simple format:

https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/fact-checking-diamond-fluorescence-myths-dispelled/

I have a few diamonds with fluorescence and they are all super pretty.
 
Interesting! I’d love to hear more of your experiences.

I like analogies....like....
Mexican food is spicy.

True, right?
Not necessarily. It makes sense to check every time if you're habanero aversive:)
Fluorescent diamonds are_ ( fill in the blank)
Whatever we fill in the blank with will be inaccurate many times...so you really do have to check each and every time
 
If I were thinking of spending this kind of cash on a pear stone, I would absolutely work with a pro in the business (like David above, Jon at Distinctive Gem, etc.). They would be able to find something you and your wife would love without the agony of sifting through stones all alone. Pears are really challenging for a layperson to judge. It's just a thought.
 
We have a local jeweler looking for us now
 
Rock
What’s the usual buy back on diamonds and is there a difference if you have a D Flawless?

My jeweler said maybe 25%
 
Rock
What’s the usual buy back on diamonds and is there a difference if you have a D Flawless?

My jeweler said maybe 25%

A FL will become an IF effectively the moment it’s set. Don’t pay a premium over IF for FL.
 
Rock
What’s the usual buy back on diamonds and is there a difference if you have a D Flawless?

My jeweler said maybe 25%
How much is a used car ad compared to a new one?
There are as many variables to answer your question. It’s a good - and common question. Most sellers aren’t in the business of advising how to sell- and would likely avoid the question.
25% is possible. But so is less.
In terms of the specifics of color clarity: in general buyers purchase price should be commensurate with the grade. Therefore a consumer selling a F/VS2 needs to recover quite a bit less than someone who purchased a D/IF
 
In terms of the specifics of color clarity: in general buyers purchase price should be commensurate with the grade. Therefore a consumer selling a F/VS2 needs to recover quite a bit less than someone who purchased a D/IF
I think of the commonly used word here on PS: “overkill”. While you will find great appreciation for diamonds, gems and jewelry on PS @joey_v, you will notice that most of the experts and highly knowledgeable posters would steer someone away from D-F or D-IF because you are going to pay the absolute most money for a diamond when you could find one just as stunning (say an F-VVS1) for a whole lot less. I have found that the consensus is balancing beauty and budget. In the end, the only people that will appreciate the D and the flawless label will be you and your wife. Because no one else will be able to tell (or care). That “perfect” diamond will just look like a “regular” diamond to anyone else that sees it. JMO.
 
I think of the commonly used word here on PS: “overkill”. While you will find great appreciation for diamonds, gems and jewelry on PS @joey_v, you will notice that most of the experts and highly knowledgeable posters would steer someone away from D-F or D-IF because you are going to pay the absolute most money for a diamond when you could find one just as stunning (say an F-VVS1) for a whole lot less. I have found that the consensus is balancing beauty and budget. In the end, the only people that will appreciate the D and the flawless label will be you and your wife. Because no one else will be able to tell (or care). That “perfect” diamond will just look like a “regular” diamond to anyone else that sees it. JMO.

Well said
 
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I think of the commonly used word here on PS: “overkill”. While you will find great appreciation for diamonds, gems and jewelry on PS @joey_v, you will notice that most of the experts and highly knowledgeable posters would steer someone away from D-F or D-IF because you are going to pay the absolute most money for a diamond when you could find one just as stunning (say an F-VVS1) for a whole lot less. I have found that the consensus is balancing beauty and budget. In the end, the only people that will appreciate the D and the flawless label will be you and your wife. Because no one else will be able to tell (or care). That “perfect” diamond will just look like a “regular” diamond to anyone else that sees it. JMO.

I like what you said.

And what rang most true for me was “me and my wife”. Because those are the only two who should appreciate such a diamond.
 
I like what you said.

And what rang most true for me was “me and my wife”. Because those are the only two who should appreciate such a diamond.

Absolutely. And if the D color and flawless clarity are of importance to the two of you, by all means go for it. But if it is because you think it’ll get you the most beautiful Diamond ring, I’m sure you know cut out weighs both.
 
Last edited:
Absolutely. And if the D color and flawless clarity are of importance to the two of you, by all means go for it. But if it is because you think it’ll get you the most beautiful Diamond ring, I’m sure you know cut out weights both.

Oh for sure.
 
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