Tiffany solitaire reset didn’t turn out as expected - Advice please!

[e2the3rd]

Hi all, I’ve posted previously about resetting my low-set Tiffany style solitaire to a little higher. The new ring didn’t turn out as expected and I would greatly appreciate some help so I can hopefully get it right..

I asked for medium set or whatever setting height was in a couple photos I sent, along with some other detailed wish list items. The process wasn’t quick or easy, I think there were 5 or 6 cads, and almost every time I had to ask for the stone to be higher - twice it was the same height as my previous ring and once it was lower. The final cad finally seemed right to me.

I received the new ring and it still seems to be set low? The final cad showed it would be 7.63mm high but I instantly noticed how low it appeared once I put it on. I’m getting a measurement of 6.85 which is lower than my previous ring, if I’ve measured correctly. The prongs aren’t cupping the stone like before but on my finger it still looks quite low.

(Otherwise I *very* much like the look of the ring, though it’s also missing the taper I requested multiple times, so I think that’s contributing to it looking a tiny bit wider than I expected. However…If it had arrived with the higher setting I probably wouldn’t fuss about the width or lack of taper. I am requesting that again though. Assuming I will be able to get a redo.)

I really want to get this right and not have a new low-set ring, since that defeats the whole purpose of having a new ring made.

PLEASE help me determine what precisely needs to change to get a higher setting, and have it still turn out looking fantastic? I’m not great at reading cads. Do I request a different size of donut width, or is it only a matter of changing the angle of the prongs, or build the donut up higher? If it had been set at 7.63mm high would that have been enough to make a difference, or do I need to request even higher?

Thank you!


Previous low set ring vs new ring:




Final cad above

These Tiffany rings below are a similar size to my stone and a couple of the ones I sent in for the design inspiration - first one showing a desired setting height, and second pic on the ring sizer shows the taper I love (from widest at the head)


My calipers showing space above the stone, where the 7.63mm height would be

 

[lovedogs]

Hmm, I'm worried that you didnt get exactly what you paid for in terms of the CAD not matching the final ring in terms of height and the issue with the taper. Have you reached out to the vendor about this?

 

[e2the3rd]

Hmm, I'm worried that you didnt get exactly what you paid for in terms of the CAD not matching the final ring in terms of height and the issue with the taper. Have you reached out to the vendor about this?

Yes, I noticed the lack of taper in the photos before he sent it, he said he wanted me to see in person before making adjustments. Then I also emailed after receiving the ring on Friday about the height and said I’d see if it would grow on me over the weekend to give it a chance. Today I emailed that I couldn’t adjust to it and would like to get it right. I don’t doubt that he will make it right.

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

It looks like the donut was made thinner/ lower so the basket is more steep. But the height overall hasn't really changed... I think the prongs need to be a bit longer so the stone sits higher? Like so that you can see the culet maybe?

 

[e2the3rd]

It looks like the donut was made thinner/ lower so the basket is more steep. But the height overall hasn't really changed... I think the prongs need to be a bit longer so the stone sits higher? Like so that you can see the culet maybe?

Thanks - yes I requested the donut height go down a little and the shoulders higher.. hoping the donut doesn’t need to be built back up too much. It’s hard to spot especially in my blurry pic but the culet is visible

 

[yssie]

I just reread your older thread as well.

So... Let me make sure I'm following...

After 5-6 CAD iterations,
After multiple non-CAD communications conveying the importance of both additional height and shank taper,
After a final CAD that explicitly detailed final head+stone height,
After trying on the wax model and describing your desired taper using that wax model as a physical reference,
You received a ring that doesn't have the shank taper that you wanted and that has a final head+stone height that isn't even in the ballpark of what you'd approved.

I wouldn't even go back. This isn't a case where something unexpected went awry: The fact that you micromanaged the first attempt and it still came out lacking those two key design elements that were very clearly communicated indicates that either the vendor didn't actually understand what you wanted and didn't reach out to you to further clarify, or the vendor didn't care about what you wanted. Both are bad and neither is fixable by you, the client. Another attempt would be more stress, more time, presumably more expense(?), and with no reason to expect a different outcome.

To answer this question:

PLEASE help me determine what precisely needs to change to get a higher setting, and have it still turn out looking fantastic?

Nothing. Honestly, you did everything you can do. You requested CAD specifics and you received a final CAD that showed the height you wanted. You requested to try on the mould and you communicated what needed to change regarding taper. It's up to the vendor to do the work of bringing a design to fruition.

 

[e2the3rd]

I just reread your older thread as well.

So... Let me make sure I'm following...

After 5-6 CAD iterations,
After multiple non-CAD communications conveying the importance of both additional height and shank taper,
After a final CAD that explicitly detailed final head+stone height,
After trying on the wax model and describing your desired taper using that wax model as a physical reference,
You received a ring that doesn't have the shank taper that you wanted and that has a final head+stone height that isn't even in the ballpark of what you'd approved.

I wouldn't even go back. This isn't a case where something unexpected went awry: The fact that you micromanaged the first attempt and it still came out lacking those two key design elements that were very clearly communicated indicates that either the vendor didn't understand what you wanted or didn't care about what you wanted - neither is "fixable" by you, the client. Another attempt is more stress, more time, presumably more expense(?), and no reason to expect a different outcome.

Thank you. Definitely more stress and I’m not looking forward to it at all, it’s been 2 long months. You’re right but I won’t be able to let it go and just live with it. From previous experiences I do believe he’ll get it right and without additional expense. And yes, I should know by now since there have been a couple previous experiences where redos were needed. I kind of figured then that it was me being too particular yet not knowing exactly what I wanted or how to express it or see it in a cad. I definitely knew this time what very specific things I wanted different from the previous ring, and I got some of them, just not the most important ones. Still not great at deciphering cads but I’ve learned more this time around. Future projects may be elsewhere. I’m considering expressing everything to him once all is done, would be good for him to know!

 

[yssie]

Thank you. Definitely more stress and I’m not looking forward to it at all, it’s been 2 long months. You’re right but I won’t be able to let it go and just live with it. From previous experiences I do believe he’ll get it right and without additional expense. And yes, I should know by now since there have been a couple previous experiences where redos were needed. I kind of figured then that it was me being too particular yet not knowing exactly what I wanted or how to express it or see it in a cad. I definitely knew this time what very specific things I wanted different from the previous ring, and I got some of them, just not the most important ones. Still not great at deciphering cads but I’ve learned more this time around. Future projects may be elsewhere. I’m considering expressing everything to him once all is done, would be good for him to know!

Totally understand especially if the remake won't be out of pocket for you (but of course going elsewhere would be)! I hope the remake addresses all your concerns and that it makes you smile from inside and out when you get it

Oh - and I just reread my previous post and I should clarify - I used "micromanage" in the sense of "you took responsibility for specifying all the design details including minutiae", but I meant that completely without any colloquial "nagging harridan" context. Belatedly realized that it's a loaded term.

 

[e2the3rd]

Totally understand especially if the remake won't be out of pocket for you (but of course going elsewhere would be)! I hope the remake addresses all your concerns and that it makes you smile from inside and out when you get it

Oh - and I just reread my previous post and I should clarify - I used "micromanage" in the sense of "you took responsibility for specifying all the design details including minutiae", but I meant that completely without any colloquial "nagging harridan" context. Belatedly realized that it's a loaded term.

Very much appreciate your thoughtful comments!

 

[e2the3rd]

I received a reply that he can set the stone higher and add the taper. He asked would I like it a mm or more higher. I would think around 1mm higher would make a nice difference, but I’m not so great at visualizing so if anyone might have some input on that, please feel free to share!

 

[yssie]

I received a reply that he can set the stone higher and add the taper. He asked would I like it a mm or more higher. I would think around 1mm higher would make a nice difference, but I’m not so great at visualizing so if anyone might have some input on that, please feel free to share!

A mm higher would put you at about final CAD height?
Would this be a new head and shaving the existing shank? Or a completely new mount?

 

[e2the3rd]

A mm higher would put you at about final CAD height?
Would this be a new head and shaving the existing shank? Or a completely new mount?

If my caliper reading of 6.85 is correct it would put it a little higher than final cad height of 7.63. I haven’t asked for details yet but I believe he will cast a whole new ring

 

[LilAlex]

Dumb question: Is your stone cut shallow ("spready")? The pavilion angle on your inspo example looks much steeper than on your stone and that could impact the eventual height.

 

[yssie]

If my caliper reading of 6.85 is correct it would put it a little higher than final cad height of 7.63. I haven’t asked for details yet but I believe he will cast a whole new ring

So unfortunately those exacting measurements on the CAD are mostly GarbageInGarbageOut, in terms of both accuracy and precision - the actual aesthetic that you end up with is totally reliant on the setter's judgment and final polish. So that's why it's really important that your vendor understands the general look that you're going for, to be able to effectively convey that to the bench!

Could you ask your vendor to list out all the changes that he'll be making, to confirm that you're both on the same page?

 

[headlight]

I’m sorry you have had to go through all this. With that said, I think the remake is definitely more attractive than the original, and I think it looks really good.
What do you think of the height when you take away the wedding band? It seems to me that on its own the height is perfect. I think when you add in the band it’s throwing you off.
Keep in mind that if you are trying to achieve a Tiffany reproduction, the authentic Tiffany is not a high-set mounting.
Give it some thought.

 

[e2the3rd]

So unfortunately those exacting measurements on the CAD are mostly GarbageInGarbageOut, in terms of both accuracy and precision - the actual aesthetic that you end up with is totally reliant on the setter's judgment and final polish. So that's why it's really important that your vendor understands the general look that you're going for, to be able to effectively convey that to the bench!

Could you ask your vendor to list out all the changes that he'll be making, to confirm that you're both on the same page?

Thanks. Yes, I figured being set by hand it probably wouldn’t be exact, and I’m good with that. I will definitely make sure I have just what I want figured out and confirm the changes when I send the ring in. I’ll look for more pictures showing the setting height to send. It’s not the easiest finding ones that have a similar size stone, smaller and larger ones have a very different look.

 

[e2the3rd]

I’m sorry you have had to go through all this. With that said, I think the remake is definitely more attractive than the original, and I think it looks really good.
What do you think of the height when you take away the wedding band? It seems to me that on its own the height is perfect. I think when you add in the band it’s throwing you off.
Keep in mind that if you are trying to achieve a Tiffany reproduction, the authentic Tiffany is not a high-set mounting.
Give it some thought.

Thank you. I did try it alone and with my other bands, it still looks low, and I gave it a few days trying to get it to grow on me. When it’s on my finger it looks or feels almost sunken compared to the previous one so it must really be lower, like the measurements show - 6.85mm vs 6.96mm on the previous one. I guess I can spot tenths of mm differences and so hopefully a little higher will end up just right.

I think the ring looks great when I’m holding it (vs wearing it), it seems to pretty close and that’s why I’m here and trying to pinpoint what precisely needs to change - I sure don’t want to mess up the remake!

 

[Nycpanda]

@e2the3rd - Curious how your ring turned out?

 

[e2the3rd]

@e2the3rd - Curious how your ring turned out?

Great - I sent it back and he was able to set the stone higher no problem, and he reshaped the shank to get the shank width a bit thinner like I wanted originally. With that reshaping I lost donut width and some tapering which were a couple of my top requests, but thankfully it turns out I’m ok with it! I actually sent it back twice for the reshaping/thinning of the shank and also had the knife edge softened a tad. I’m very happy with it finally, and glad it’s over! That was not a fun process. Now I’m dealing with DSS and boy I wish that would just go away

 

[Nycpanda]

Great - I sent it back and he was able to set the stone higher no problem, and he reshaped the shank to get the shank width a bit thinner like I wanted originally. With that reshaping I lost donut width and some tapering which were a couple of my top requests, but thankfully it turns out I’m ok with it! I actually sent it back twice for the reshaping/thinning of the shank and also had the knife edge softened a tad. I’m very happy with it finally, and glad it’s over! That was not a fun process. Now I’m dealing with DSS and boy I wish that would just go away

It looks BEAUTIFUL!!! I love that you can see the diamond in those prongs. I’m glad it turned out well in the end!

oh DSS.. I was never a girl who wore jewelry, except for certain events I’d have something simple, but never real diamonds. And then I fall into Pricescope and trying e-rings and each time we returned to the store, it just kept growing just weeks apart.

I really want my ring to taper and am impatiently waiting for delivery. Do you mind sharing a picture of the ring’s profile?

 

[MissGotRocks]

Great - I sent it back and he was able to set the stone higher no problem, and he reshaped the shank to get the shank width a bit thinner like I wanted originally. With that reshaping I lost donut width and some tapering which were a couple of my top requests, but thankfully it turns out I’m ok with it! I actually sent it back twice for the reshaping/thinning of the shank and also had the knife edge softened a tad. I’m very happy with it finally, and glad it’s over! That was not a fun process. Now I’m dealing with DSS and boy I wish that would just go away

So glad you got this all sorted out - the rings are beautiful!
Just wondering - how far is the DSS taking you?
Do you have a size in mind? Lol! It is a monster but perhaps given enough time, it will settle down!

 

[e2the3rd]

It looks BEAUTIFUL!!! I love that you can see the diamond in those prongs. I’m glad it turned out well in the end!

oh DSS.. I was never a girl who wore jewelry, except for certain events I’d have something simple, but never real diamonds. And then I fall into Pricescope and trying e-rings and each time we returned to the store, it just kept growing just weeks apart.

I really want my ring to taper and am impatiently waiting for delivery. Do you mind sharing a picture of the ring’s profile?

Thank you! Look forward to seeing your ring! Here are a couple pics showing the profile

 

[e2the3rd]

So glad you got this all sorted out - the rings are beautiful!
Just wondering - how far is the DSS taking you?
Do you have a size in mind? Lol! It is a monster but perhaps given enough time, it will settle down!

Thanks!

Yeah I was fine until I ordered a 2ct lightbox diamond out of curiosity, thinking of doing a second ring to switch up. I really didn’t expect to prefer the larger size but darnit there was a huge difference and the size looked much better with my band! So I’d love to put a 2ct in this ring, and then move this stone into a different setting, maybe a bezel, or a three stone… or I could get a different band with smaller stones and maybe that might take care of the DSS ? I’m trying to be patient and take time deciding

 

[MissGotRocks]

Thanks!

Yeah I was fine until I ordered a 2ct lightbox diamond out of curiosity, thinking of doing a second ring to switch up. I really didn’t expect to prefer the larger size but darnit there was a huge difference and the size looked much better with my band! So I’d love to put a 2ct in this ring, and then move this stone into a different setting, maybe a bezel, or a three stone… or I could get a different band with smaller stones and maybe that might take care of the DSS ? I’m trying to be patient and take time deciding

What is the size of your current diamond?

 

[e2the3rd]

What is the size of your current diamond?

1.67ct - 7.67mm at widest, and the lightbox one measured over 8mm. I returned the lightbox one and was surprised to find I couldn’t stop thinking about and missing that little size difference!

 

[Ionysis]

That looks SO much better. Glad you persisted and worked it out in the end. Try and enjoy it for a at least a few days before you start listing after the upgrade LOL!

 

[MissGotRocks]

1.67ct - 7.67mm at widest, and the lightbox one measured over 8mm. I returned the lightbox one and was surprised to find I couldn’t stop thinking about and missing that little size difference!

Now that the other one is gone and you don't have it to compare to you might feel better about your current stone. Give it some time and see how you feel. Meanwhile, you have a beautiful set to enjoy!

 

[e2the3rd]

Now that the other one is gone and you don't have it to compare to you might feel better about your current stone. Give it some time and see how you feel. Meanwhile, you have a beautiful set to enjoy!

That looks SO much better. Glad you persisted and worked it out in the end. Try and enjoy it for a at least a few days before you start listing after the upgrade LOL!

It’s actually been 2 months since I returned the 2ct stone and the feeling isn’t going away. I keep finding myself either taking off the band, or turning the solitaire to the side if I’m wearing the band with it, because they don’t look juuust right together to me, as far as size / proportions. A couple tenths of a mm larger center stone, or a smaller stone band would work better to my eyes - and yes, I‘m aware I’m far too finicky. I’ll figure it out one of these days! But thank you!!

 

[tyty333]

Your new ring/setting looks beautiful. Not sure why they couldn't get it straight the first time...but, it looks great now!

You need to order the 1 carat lightbox then you'll feel lots better about your stone size!

 

[MissGotRocks]

It’s actually been 2 months since I returned the 2ct stone and the feeling isn’t going away. I keep finding myself either taking off the band, or turning the solitaire to the side if I’m wearing the band with it, because they don’t look juuust right together to me, as far as size / proportions. A couple tenths of a mm larger center stone, or a smaller stone band would work better to my eyes - and yes, I‘m aware I’m far too finicky. I’ll figure it out one of these days! But thank you!!

Well, if an upgrade is in the cards go for it! Hopefully DK can make the new setting work!