Tsavorite shipping; Questions regarding custom settings

[jps]

I have a tsavorite on the way for an engagement ring and have some general questions regarding settings. I am looking for a custom platinum setting with a line of malee diamonds starting about half way around the band and ending about half way up the height of the center stone.

I don't know the 'lingo' very well and I am extremely picky so am I better to talk one on one with a person in their store so I can better demonstrate/explain what I want or how I want it modified versus go with something like custom from Whiteflash?
Do most goldsmiths in local jewellery stores work with platinum or should you deal only with people who work with platinum all the time?
How does the process work exactly? For example, do they do the design and then send it out according to materials used?

I guess overall I would like to know what I should expect during the process of having a custom setting made and who I should trust?

Thank you to all in advance.
(If it matters, I am in Toronto Canada)
The Tsavorite is 2.13ct and measures 7.30L x 6.85W x 5.25D mm. There are 3 peices of lint on it - they are not scratches.

 

[VapidLapid]

Firstly, totally gorgeous stone. I mean really quite special.
Secondly, you dont have to "know the lingo" to work with the great people at Whiteflash. You will have person to person attention from them, like talking to your best friend on the phone. This tsavorite in a setting like what Chrono recently had her spessartite done in would be an unstoppable knockout. Whiteflash or any custom goldsmith have the experience everyday of working with clients who might not be fluent in "Smithy-speak" but they will discuss everything you need in whatever dialect you are comfortable with.
It looks like a Roger Dery stone so you've already gone to the top tier. I hope you are able to go all the way with the perfect setting and custom design experience.

 

[Largosmom]

Not all jewelers have a goldsmith...they may have a bench person who can set stones, but not manufacture a setting.

I've not yet worked with whiteflash, but if you read through many posts here, they are lauded by all who have worked with them and the jewelry is stunning. It would be well worth your time to give them a call and see what you think. If I were starting over on an engagement ring, I would have started with them!

Laura

 

[T L]

The problem isn't so much finding a jeweler that works with platinum, but finding one that can handle colored gems, as they are softer than diamonds, far softer. Most jewelers really only know how to handle diamonds and corundum (sapphire, ruby). Adding a hard metal, with a high melting point, like platinum, can be potentially hazardous to the stone, and they may chip it or crack it. One of the reasons Whiteflash is so popular, is that they not only know how to handle platinum, but they know how to handle some colored gems. They recently set a tsavorite for Yingh.

I would also caution against wearing this particular e-ring everyday since garnets are not really suited to everyday wear.

 

[chrono]

That is a gorgeous tsavorite and congrats on your engagement. From what you are describing, you are looking for a half eternity style e-ring with diamond melees in platinum. However, that description is also quite generic. In order to get exactly what you want, example pictures and drawings/sketches go a long way to be sure both you and the designer/jeweller share the same vision. Always discuss this on a one on one basis. As mentioned previously, not all jewelers will have an in-house benchstaff and not all benchpeople are created equally. Some are only experienced with setting diamonds while others are better skilled with setting softer and “unusual” gemstones like garnets. The first step is always the design, then it either goes straight into production if hand made or drawn in CAD if cast.

 

[cemrn]

I think BGD does gorgeous custom work. They are a dream to work with as well.
Go to Brian's blog and see the tsav he recently set, I know it is not the style you are talking about. I don't know if I am allowed to link it here

 

[Sagebrush]

jps,

First I would make a distinction between a jeweler and a goldsmith. Jeweler is a generic sort of term that most people who retail jewelry use. It has no professional meaning. A goldsmith, by contrast, is a highly trained craftsperson and usually works in all precious materials including platinum.

The thing to understand about platinum is 1. It is used 90-95% pure. 2. Platinum weighs 40% more than an equal amount of 24k gold. 3. It takes twice as long to do the work. Personally I would recommend 18k yellow gold with a tsavorite.


Best of luck,

 

[Aoife]

jps,

First I would make a distinction between a jeweler and a goldsmith. Jeweler is a generic sort of term that most people who retail jewelry use. It has no professional meaning. A goldsmith, by contrast, is a highly trained craftsperson and usually works in all precious materials including platinum.

The thing to understand about platinum is 1. It is used 90-95% pure. 2. Platinum weighs 40% more than an equal amount of 24k gold. 3. It takes twice as long to do the work. Personally I would recommend 18k yellow gold with a tsavorite.


Best of luck,

I've seen quite a few tsavorites set in WG or platinum. Richard, in your opinion why would yellow gold be preferable? Does it reduce the yellow component in the tsavorite?

 

[jps]

Thanks to all - your shared knowledge is extremely helpful.
(Wow, after reading my original thread I really need a spell checker. Sorry!)

 

[Sagebrush]

Aoife,

The best tsavorite tend to have a blue secondary hue but often tend toward the yellow and if tsavorite has a mask it is gray. I like 18k yellow or better because it warms up the stone and mitigates the effect of the gray.

Best,

 

[chrono]

Richard,
Wouldn’t a tsavorite that tends towards yellow also have the yellow component strengthened if it is set in yellow gold? So if it tends towards blue, then a white metal might be better suited?

 

[Aoife]

Thanks for the feedback, Richard. Chrono asked the follow-up I would have posted. I'll be interested to hear some discussion about this.

 

[Treenbean]

You have purchased a lovely stone. The color is fabulous! Well done.
Have you looked at Leon Mege yet? He did my E-ring and it is truly a work of art. He starts with granules of platinum and the rings are hand-made. No casting, no CAD, the ring is one of a kind and made for each individual stone. He won the Spectrum award with a paraiba tourmaline ring (so he can set colored stones).
I know I am plugging him but I do love my ring!

http://www.artofplatinum.com/portfolio/index.php

 

[T L]

I would love to see a bluish green tsavorite in rose gold actually. I have a minty one with a great deal of blue in it, and I think it looks fab in rose gold. If the green is very pure and very saturated, I think any metal color will do.

 

[arjunajane]

Aoife,

The best tsavorite tend to have a blue secondary hue but often tend toward the yellow and if tsavorite has a mask it is gray. I like 18k yellow or better because it warms up the stone and mitigates the effect of the gray.

Best,

I must say I agree with Richard on both counts - a wonderfully green tsavorite with 18k or higher yellow gold imparts such a...rich look.
However, admittedly it is not a look for everyone's tastes.

My understanding of tsavorite colour is that all will have somewhat of a yellow component, even the bluer ones.

 

[delayedreaction]

Richard,
Wouldn’t a tsavorite that tends towards yellow also have the yellow component strengthened if it is set in yellow gold? So if it tends towards blue, then a white metal might be better suited?

Just a general color perception note: if you have a strong color and a much much paler version of the same color, the more saturated color will make the paler color appear to be white. (Which is why you can get away with a slightly lower color grade when you're setting a non fancy yellow diamond in YG.) You can play with this yourself if you go to the kuler.adobe.com and go to Create -> From a Color -> Select a Rule -> Custom.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

I have a tsavorite that is a very pure, slightly over-saturated green that is in 18k yellow gold and I really love how it looks. I think there is something very classically regal and lush about the color combination.