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Vatche U-113 custom vs Distinctive Gem Intermediate/Master Bench

ECMO

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 2, 2021
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Long time lurker (since 2015!), new poster

I'm currently talking to Jonathan at Distinctive Gem about arranging an engagement ring. I've already got the diamond purchased, it is a 1.89ct round synthetic that I got for a pretty good price.

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I'm thinking about something like the Vatche U-113 but with some modifications - essentially 3.2mm wide but coming in a bit at the top to 2.5mm, comfort fit interior surface, non-knife edge six-prong solitaire with the Vatche U-113 basket and tab prongs and with shanks that go up a bit like in the Vatche.

The renders are what he's sent me but I'm set on the basket/prongs from the Vatche

I've got the design pretty much decided now, and now the last decision to make is who's actually going to make the ring (in platinum)

I'm told Vatche will do it for around $2000, Jonathan's intermediate bench for around $150-1600, and his master bench also for $2000

Does anyone have experience and know what the relative quality of each would be? I'm leaning towards Vatche as they're the guys who make the basket/prongs that I want day in day out, but seeing as the design itself is otherwise not super elaborate or intricate (and if they're able to do it anyway) I'm wondering if I should just save a few bucks and go with the intermediate bench

Thanks
 
I would go with the Vatche if it's their basket/prongs that you like. I think their basket looks more elegant than the CAD images.
 
Maybe you should ask jonathan to make the prongs more swoopy/curved in the cad like the vatche u113
 
I think both (or either) would be excellent quality. If I were going to go with the uber bench I think I would just go with Vatche.
Agree with @mrsctobe ...ask DG for swoopier prongs and see what he gives you.
 
The Vatche hits the mark for me in a way the CAD doesn't.
 
Go with whoever has had the best customer service, communication, and who provides the best ongoing warranty, servicing, etc.
 
I'm told Vatche will do it for around $2000, Jonathan's intermediate bench for around $150-1600, and his master bench also for $2000

Does anyone have experience and know what the relative quality of each would be? I'm leaning towards Vatche as they're the guys who make the basket/prongs that I want day in day out, but seeing as the design itself is otherwise not super elaborate or intricate (and if they're able to do it anyway) I'm wondering if I should just save a few bucks and go with the intermediate bench
Many vintage pieces have milgrain and/or engraving on every visible surface that isn't pave'd. The reason for this is that milgrain and engraving are excellent distractors - a fantastic finish was difficult and time-consuming to achieve, especially once mass-manufacturing became popular, and these design elements very effectively draw the eye away from imperfections.

The simplest designs are - perhaps unexpectedly - usually also the least forgiving. Because there's so little there, the eye has nothing to focus on except nuances in design and minutiae of finish. A simple solitaire like you're wanting is actually incredibly difficult to perfect. The differences between a "meh" bench and a "superb" bench are going to be in those nuances and minutiae: A superb bench will take more time and effort to bring the spirit of a design to life, and will be more conscientious with details of finish - seamless flow between independent elements, every visible surface cleanly polished, etc.

I would 100% recommend you go with Vatche. They make the original, and the original is what you want, it's a perfect project fit. Jewellery rule of thumb - never go custom if you don't have to.
 
As someone who has the Vatche, I'd recommend using them. Although, you are veering from their aesthetic a bit going with a wider shank. It will likely look pretty, but it may have the effect of making your diamond look a little smaller. (When you said synthetic, did you mean lab diamond?)
 
The simplest designs are - perhaps unexpectedly - usually also the least forgiving. Because there's so little there, the eye has nothing to focus on except nuances in design and minutiae of finish. A simple solitaire like you're wanting is actually incredibly difficult to perfect.

Thanks, that's a really good perspective that I hadn't thought about.

t will likely look pretty, but it may have the effect of making your diamond look a little smaller. (When you said synthetic, did you mean lab diamond?)

It's a HPHT lab diamond, D, VVS1, ideal and I don't think I could've stretched the budget any further on it to be honest. The shoulders in the current design come in a bit to 2.4mm so as to not overshadow the diamond too much.

I was all set to go with Vatche after reading all this but now I've stumbled into the hand-forged rabbit hole and am reading about all that. Anyone have any ideas what the hand-forged people would charge for such a design? (ie Maytal, Victor Canera etc) Is it going to be astronomical?
 
What do you aim to achieve with a handforged mount?

Again, you never want to go custom if what you want is available off the shelf.
 
What do you aim to achieve with a handforged mount?

I'm reading that hand forged is a bit stronger and less porous, and there seems to have been some intermittent issues with air bubbles in the Vatche rings in the past. I guess I'm just wondering about a cost-benefit ratio though
 
I don’t know about the master bench at DG but I have a setting from their intermediate bench. It’s just ok.

The outside of the ring is polished well but inside the basket is VERY rough. The melee are not set very even and the prongs are also not perfectly flush with the stone. They tend to catch on my clothes now and then.

It was a less expensive option but I wish that I had chosen the better bench. If you do go with DG, I’d definitely stick to the high end bench option.
 
It was a less expensive option but I wish that I had chosen the better bench. If you do go with DG, I’d definitely stick to the high end bench option.

Good to keep in mind. Thank you.
 
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