What Came First, The Setting Or The Stone

[koolchicken]

Okay, I have a question. I know this has probably been asked before but I can't seem to find the answers.

Do people on here buy stones first, then hunt for a setting? Or do you purchase a setting then find a stone that'll fit? Now I know for custom pieces you would pick a stone first and build the setting for it. And sometimes you see a setting that's just so pretty you have to have it so you look for a specifically stone that'll fit. But just in general, is it stones first?

And sort of a secondary question. I know colored stones aren't always cut the same way diamonds are. Does that lead to issues finding settings for them? Are many colored stone projects custom as a result?

 

[Edward Bristol]

in colored gemstones always the stone is first.

colored stones are rare, uniquely sized and not always available in the desired shape, cut or color.

 

[FrekeChild]

In general, for me, the stone has come first. There have been times where the setting has come first and I've found stones to fit them, but probably 93% of the time, the stone comes first. I currently have three rings in which I had to have the setting and figuring out which stone would work best came later. I do a lot of custom settings, and a lot of searching for secondhand settings that I like and that would fit my stone. For instance, I just bought a setting for a stone of mine that's in the non-calibrated size of 6x7 in a square cushion, non-precision cut, with a bigger belly and a keel instead of a culet. Hopefully it works out.

Settings that came first:

1. Mom's ering setting, Jabel 18kt yellow gold solitaire
2. Mark Morrell Torchiere
3. BGD trap and rounds tapered diamond setting

And surprisingly, one other setting that came first has just had a thread made about it by it's new owner:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/red-mahenge-spinel-in-bez-ambar-setting.195687/

As far as cutting...it depends. Non-precision cut stones can be more challenging to have set, because they can have bigger bellies and non-calibrated shapes and sizes. There are some cutters who try to cut more for stock settings, like Barry Bridgestock, and there are others who cut more to what the rough demands of it, like Gene Flanigan.

 

[JewelFreak]

Much easier to get the stone first. As Ed says, finding just the right one to fit & look good in a setting is tough. You often either end up having the head re-worked to fit a stone you find later, or compromising on one that doesn't make you want to sing, because it's the right dimensions. It's not impossible, but takes longer & is more difficult.

 

[chrono]

Finding the stone first will be so much easier than finding the setting first, be it a ring, pendant or earrings.
1. Finding the right colour, size, etc within budget is difficult enough.
2. Trying to do all that AND fit a specific dimension makes it 100x more difficult.
3. Sometimes, one has to budge on shape.
4. Coloured stones aren't always calibrated or have a deep pavilion, hence will not fit into a stock setting.

I've seen some posters buy the setting first, then the stone, but a few things happen:
1. Get lucky and find the right stone within weeks
2. Not so lucky and find the right stone within months or more than a year
3. Not lucky at all and end up selling the setting.

I've done it both ways but 95% of the time, I purchase the stone first. The reason for this is to increase my chances of finding the right stone at a good price, even though I do not have any time constraint.

 

[deskjockey]

So far it's been stone first, but I am working on a pendant design (I say "design" loosely, as I have no actual skills in that area) that will probably require finding stones of particular shape/size to work right (that said, I'll be getting the stones first for that, as well, and having the pendant made. But I do want it to be a specific size so that nothing gets out of control).

Unless a particular setting or piece of jewelry really leaps out at me and needs a stone to fit it, I find the stones generally more interesting than what they go into.

 

[minousbijoux]

I have many stones without settings. Occasionally, I go out and buy a setting knowing that of course one of my stones will fit. Nope. So now I have many stones and some empty settings, silly me!

 

[GregS]

Stone first, always. You can have a setting made for a stone, but not the other way around.

 

[velouriaL]

I say stone first, but most of my stones are unset, and I actually *wear* jewelry that is designer-driven, with stones that just serve the purpose of the design, so...

I DEFINITELY prefer precision cut stones. Some people are color-senstive, I think I'm cut sensitive. I don't mind modifiers, etc., as long as the cutting is perfect and the color is, to my eyes, pretty. But, then again, most the jewelry I actually wear has native or machine cut gems, so...

 

[caf]

Freke - I am a total newbie and this is my first post. My question is where do you find the second hand settings, what do you look for, etc? CAF

 

[koolchicken]

Thank you everyone for your replies, I've always wondered. Up until recently I've only really used this site to drool over everyones jewelry, I guess I should have been paying more attention.

For some dream settings I think I'd happily "compromise" on a stone. But I see now why the stone should come first. It just makes life easier. I don't like things half finished so if I bought a setting first I don't know if I'd want to sit on it. I could, I'm never on a timeline. But I'd become obsessed with finding a stone to fit it. So I'll take the advice and focus on stones for now.

 

[FrekeChild]

Freke - I am a total newbie and this is my first post. My question is where do you find the second hand settings, what do you look for, etc? CAF

http://loupetroop.com/

http://diamondbistro.com/index.php

Jewels by Erica Grace
http://jewelsbyericagrace.com/

And ebay typically.

As for things to look out for...it just depends on what you like and want. I got really lucky on the BGD in that I saw it right away, and emailed her right away, and luckily I was the first of many to message her about it.

I think you just have to develop an eye. A lot of people on ebay really have no idea what they are selling. If it's inherited, whatever, they are just clueless. But to do that, you have to really study and educate yourself on what to look for. There are some ebay mavens here on PS that have done way better than I have! I've just gotten lucky sometimes.

I have to add the caveat that at the times I've been able to fill these settings with stones, it's because I've had a large variety of stones to choose from. The BGD took a significant amount of work to get it to work in the setting. The Jabel did not because I searched for a long time for a stone that would go in the setting.

 

[movie zombie]

STONE.
yes, I know I yelled.