What Would You Do?

[Catmom]

So this year is a "Big" birthday/anniversary year. I've been stalking Art Deco emerald and diamond bracelets for several years now in anticipation lol. They are pricey I have to say. If I bought one of those that would be my sole gift. In my searches I came across 2 bracelets that I really love the style of more than any I have seen. Plus they are way less $$ but have a couple issues. If I got one of those I could also buy some art deco earrings I've been eying.

The first one is from the 1930's and has 9 or so cts of OECs and a lot more emeralds in the bracelet. This one is my top pick on style but the bracelet has been repaired with up to 50% of the emeralds being synthetic.

The second one is a 1920s and a close second on style with 8 or so cts of OECs but less emeralds. The emeralds are all natural emeralds in this one but there is some slight damage to some of the bezeling/milgraining. It has a few spots that look like flea bites out of the edge. Not noticeable unless you are really looking hard.

I am so torn on what to do. Buy the more expensive one which is 3rd in my style factor but is all natural emeralds and no damage but would preclude getting the earrings which actually match this bracelet best or buy the one I love best but has 50% synthetic replacement emeralds or buy the one that I really, really like that has all natural emeralds but has some small damage or scrap all of the above and keep looking. What would you guys do?

 

[Dreamer_D]

What are your general jewellery priorities when considering antique pieces? Authenticity? carat weight? natural gems?

And do you have any pictures?

 

[Catmom]

What are your general jewellery priorities when considering antique pieces? Authenticity? carat weight? natural gems?

And do you have any pictures?

I do have pictures but really don't want to post them. Authenticity is important to me. Ct weight is not as important as authenticity and style. I like unique pieces. Natural gems are also important which is why 50/50 is giving me pause even though I absolutely love the piece.

 

[BoSnerdley]

buy the one I love best but has 50% synthetic replacement emeralds or buy the one that I really, really like that has all natural emeralds but has some small damage or scrap all of the above and keep looking. What would you guys do?

have you negotiated hard on the one that has 50% synthetic? I don't know a ton about Jewelry cost, but my guess is it would be cheaper to replace the synthetics on the vintage piece you love best with natural stones, because to replicate that old style as a custom new piece be more expensive than replacing the synthetics. Point out to the seller how much it will cost to replace all of that, and how you aren't really getting a whole lot of 'value' from the piece. Also,is there another heavily damaged/worn piece that seller or another seller is selling that you can harvest stones from to use to replace the synthetics?

 

[JPie]

I have similar values and the synthetic replacements would bother me. The damage on the other one gives me pause as well. My Art Deco tennis bracelet has no visible damage to the bezels but it is delicate, I’ve had a diamond fall out before, and it’s prohibitively expensive to reinforce the settings. I love it but it keeps me from wearing it as often as I would otherwise.

I would hold out if I were you. I’d rather wait longer than to compromise on such an expensive piece.

 

[Catmom]

have you negotiated hard on the one that has 50% synthetic? I don't know a ton about Jewelry cost, but my guess is it would be cheaper to replace the synthetics on the vintage piece you love best with natural stones, because to replicate that old style as a custom new piece be more expensive than replacing the synthetics. Point out to the seller how much it will cost to replace all of that, and how you aren't really getting a whole lot of 'value' from the piece. Also,is there another heavily damaged/worn piece that seller or another seller is selling that you can harvest stones from to use to replace the synthetics?

We haven't negotiated yet on any of the pieces. Good points on the negotiation. I think it might be tough though on finding replacement stones as the shapes are not the usual french cut stones.

 

[Catmom]

I have similar values and the synthetic replacements would bother me. The damage on the other one gives me pause as well. My Art Deco tennis bracelet has no visible damage to the bezels but it is delicate, I’ve had a diamond fall out before, and it’s prohibitively expensive to reinforce the settings. I love it but it keeps me from wearing it as often as I would otherwise.

I would hold out if I were you. I’d rather wait longer than to compromise on such an expensive piece.

Yeah, sadly I think 50% is just too much for me.

 

[stepcutnut]

@Catmom what an exciting dilemma! Have you contacted anyone that does antique jewelry restoration like Sako to see what his pricing might be on replacing the synthetic emeralds for you? His father is an excellent cutter!

 

[Catmom]

@Catmom what an exciting dilemma! Have you contacted anyone that does antique jewelry restoration like Sako to see what his pricing might be on replacing the synthetic emeralds for you? His father is an excellent cutter!

I haven't checked with anyone on replacing the synthetics. I worry about damage to the bezels.

 

[stepcutnut]

I haven't checked with anyone on replacing the synthetics. I worry about damage to the bezels.

Understandable! He has done some fine bezel work on a few pieces for me and done a beautiful job!!! Good luck with your decision, if you love that bracelet but are not excited about the synthetic emeralds I’d suggest contacting Sako for his opinion on replacing them for you

 

[dk168]

The issue with mix of natural and synthetic at 50/50 is a no-no for me.

The issues with damaged bezel/millgrain and flea bites to the Emeralds bother me less, and the setting can probably be fixed without costing too much compared with replacing all the synthetic Emeralds.

I would probably have the Emeralds with the flea bites taken out for repolishing if it is not too much hassle to do.

Given the 2 choices based on the information in the first post alone, I would opt for the second bracelet with all natural Emeralds myself.

At the end of the day, if you know all the facts, then go for the piece that makes your heart sing I'd say.

DK

 

[Lookinagain]

The issues with damaged bezel/millgrain and flea bites to the Emeralds bother me less, and the setting can probably be fixed without costing too much compared with replacing all the synthetic Emeralds.

Given the 2 choices based on the information in the first post alone, I would opt for the second bracelet with all natural Emeralds myself.

I would do the same

 

[missy]

My best advice to you @Catmom is do not settle. It does not sound like any of these are your dream piece.
My thoughts for what they are worth.

 

[Lisa Loves Shiny]

I don't mind synthetic gems if they were part of the original antique piece. I would not like buying an antique piece in which natural gems were replaced with synthetics. But you really, really love one of the bracelets so that is the one you should choose IMHO or keep looking.
Also- have you looked into cost in replacing the synthetics on the bracelet you really love? I was pleasantly surprised that it was not very expensive to replace a small ruby on an antique ring of mine. Granted, I bought from Multicolour gems so the small ruby has a native cut. But if you go that route you now have a project and we all know how that can become involved and expensive.

Good luck in whatever direction you take. It's a significant anniversary and you should get exactly what you want.

 

[Catmom]

The issue with mix of natural and synthetic at 50/50 is a no-no for me.

The issues with damaged bezel/millgrain and flea bites to the Emeralds bother me less, and the setting can probably be fixed without costing too much compared with replacing all the synthetic Emeralds.

I would probably have the Emeralds with the flea bites taken out for repolishing if it is not too much hassle to do.

Given the 2 choices based on the information in the first post alone, I would opt for the second bracelet with all natural Emeralds myself.

At the end of the day, if you know all the facts, then go for the piece that makes your heart sing I'd say.

DK

I'm rapidly coming to agree that it is just too much replacement. The second bracelet is not damage to the emeralds but damage to the metal itself along some arched areas. I'm not so sure these could be fixed.

I would do the same

Thanks!

My best advice to you @Catmom is do not settle. It does not sound like any of these are your dream piece.
My thoughts for what they are worth.

I do not want to settle on this so thank you. Your thoughts are always valuable.

I don't mind synthetic gems if they were part of the original antique piece. I would not like buying an antique piece in which natural gems were replaced with synthetics. But you really, really love one of the bracelets so that is the one you should choose IMHO or keep looking.
Also- have you looked into cost in replacing the synthetics on the bracelet you really love? I was pleasantly surprised that it was not very expensive to replace a small ruby on an antique ring of mine. Granted, I bought from Multicolour gems so the small ruby has a native cut. But if you go that route you now have a project and we all know how that can become involved and expensive.

Good luck in whatever direction you take. It's a significant anniversary and you should get exactly what you want.

Good point!


Thanks guys for your input! Some points that I needed to hear. I really don't want to settle on this so I guess the hunt is still on.

 

[LightBright]

I have an overly romantic feeling about antique jewelry.

Replacements, re-cuts or repolished stones, and modifications to an original piece of jewelry really bother me.

In the case of retouching a completed jewelry piece, I feel like the mastery of the original cutters, and metal artists (whose work was done to the highest standards) is diminished when things start getting re-done.

Repairs often don’t match the original artistry. Almost never, IMO. And when you do have superstar repair/restorers (Gary Roe is the only person I’d trust seeing his work) it costs accordingly. So the bargain bracelet is now at market price or more.

I would wait and keep looking (you can also tell us your price range and show us what you love and we can look for you). I know that special piece is out there. You might have already found it, so IMO for this type of purchase only buy what you love.

 

[Catmom]

I have an overly romantic feeling about antique jewelry.

Replacements, re-cuts or repolished stones, and modifications to an original piece of jewelry really bother me.

In the case of retouching a completed jewelry piece, I feel like the mastery of the original cutters, and metal artists (whose work was done to the highest standards) is diminished when things start getting re-done.

Repairs often don’t match the original artistry. Almost never, IMO. And when you do have superstar repairers (Gary Roe is the only person I’d trust seeing his work) it costs accordingly. So the bargain bracelet is now at market price or more.

I would wait and keep looking (you can also tell us your price range and show us what you love and we can look for you). I know that special piece is out there. You might have already found it, so IMO for this type of purchase only buy what you love.

Thanks LightBright. I guess they bother me also which is why I am struggling over this. My range is 25K or under but I'd be really happy if it could be under 15K so I could get those earrings I've been eying lol. Here is a pic of the one I really love. I'll post the pic since I won't be buying it. This style of Art Deco is perfect to me. It also has a good amount of "emeralds" unlike some.

 

[LightBright]

Thanks LightBright. I guess they bother me also which is why I am struggling over this. My range is 25K or under but I'd be really happy if it could be under 15K so I could get those earrings I've been eying lol. Here is a pic of the one I really love. I'll post the pic since I won't be buying it. This style of Art Deco is perfect to me. It also has a good amount of "emeralds" unlike some.

It’s beautiful. I wonder if you could add here what stylistically you like about it/what you are looking for so people can keep an eye out for you.

Also you might want to enlist the help of a great vendor with great reach. I’ve seen Dolly at XOtheBijouxbox post about the ethics of sticking with only one vendor at a time to search for you, so there’s that. But she seems to have access to amazing antiques and has impeccable taste, IMO, worth reaching out to her. She’s also really approachable/great communication.

 

[Catmom]

It’s beautiful. I wonder if you could add here what stylistically you like about it/what you are looking for so people can keep an eye out for you.

Also you might want to enlist the help of a great vendor with great reach. I’ve seen Dolly at XOtheBijouxbox post about the ethics of sticking with only one vendor at a time to search for you, so there’s that. But she seems to have access to amazing antiques and has impeccable taste, IMO, worth reaching out to her. She’s also really approachable/great communication.

I like that it has floral aspects and isn't as typical as you normally see. I also like cut outs and engraving like this one.



Having someone watch out for me may be the way to go on this. Thanks!

 

[Kim N]

Michelle, your taste is always sublime so I can't wait to see what you end up with. I'm on a similar search (though with a lower budget), and the first photo you posted has just the sort of floral aesthetics I'm looking for, so I'll be following along your journey.

 

[Catmom]

Michelle, your taste is always sublime so I can't wait to see what you end up with. I'm on a similar search (though with a lower budget), and the first photo you posted has just the sort of floral aesthetics I'm looking for, so I'll be following along your journey.

Aww thanks! Good luck with your search. What's your budget? If I find something I'll let you know.

 

[Kim N]

Aww thanks! Good luck with your search. What's your budget? If I find something I'll let you know.

Hoping to stay under $10K, thanks! Good luck with yours as well.

 

[Mreader]

I have similar values and the synthetic replacements would bother me. The damage on the other one gives me pause as well. My Art Deco tennis bracelet has no visible damage to the bezels but it is delicate, I’ve had a diamond fall out before, and it’s prohibitively expensive to reinforce the settings. I love it but it keeps me from wearing it as often as I would otherwise.

I would hold out if I were you. I’d rather wait longer than to compromise on such an expensive piece.

That bracelet is one of my faves @JPie. Did you recover the lost stone?! I’m sorry to hear that you cannot wear it as often as you would like!

@Catmom I agree with the crew - it sounds like tue synthetic one isn’t for you. I know the temptation of being able to buy two thing not one though!

 

[JPie]

That bracelet is one of my faves @JPie. Did you recover the lost stone?! I’m sorry to hear that you cannot wear it as often as you would like!

I was lucky - I saw it go flying when I waved goodbye to someone, so I found the diamond and had it reset.

I love that bracelet. It’s my favorite so I have no regrets even though she’s delicate!

 

[Catmom]

I was lucky - I saw it go flying when I waved goodbye to someone, so I found the diamond and had it reset.

I love that bracelet. It’s my favorite so I have no regrets even though she’s delicate!

So glad you found the diamond!

 

[LilAlex]

Those are absolutely lovely but your OP clarifies that neither would satisfy.

You have great taste and a healthy budget so I think it's better to wait, as @missy says above. That said, these two options are not run-of-the-mill Deco lines so there is a finite supply and it's possible that the wait could be long for the perfect one. So depends a little on what decadal milestone you are celebrating!

 

[junebug17]

I came across these, although you might have already seen them -

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1141773736/art-deco-old-european-cut-diamond-and?gpla=1&gao=1&

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1794042255/circa-1920s-platinum-art-deco-old?click_key=a374d5f9915541ca440f8939a30153f3f939b82e%3A1794042255&click_sum=bf21e784&ref=sim_items_grid-4&frs=1

This one is priced higher

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1773552955/antique-art-deco-platinum-old-carre-cut?external=1&rec_type=ad&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-3&frs=1&sts=1&plkey=97bfd09c80bc128243c76b783ae8aa1b88bf07f8%3A1773552955

The second one seems like a good price? The center diamonds are a good size.

 

[Catmom]

Those are absolutely lovely but your OP clarifies that neither would satisfy.

You have great taste and a healthy budget so I think it's better to wait, as @missy says above. That said, these two options are not run-of-the-mill Deco lines so there is a finite supply and it's possible that the wait could be long for the perfect one. So depends a little on what decadal milestone you are celebrating!

Uh yeah, waiting a long time could be an issue! I am old.

 

[Catmom]

I came across these, although you might have already seen them -

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1141773736/art-deco-old-european-cut-diamond-and?gpla=1&gao=1&

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1794042255/circa-1920s-platinum-art-deco-old?click_key=a374d5f9915541ca440f8939a30153f3f939b82e%3A1794042255&click_sum=bf21e784&ref=sim_items_grid-4&frs=1

This one is priced higher

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1773552955/antique-art-deco-platinum-old-carre-cut?external=1&rec_type=ad&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-3&frs=1&sts=1&plkey=97bfd09c80bc128243c76b783ae8aa1b88bf07f8%3A1773552955

The second one seems like a good price? The center diamonds are a good size.

Thanks junebug! I have seen them. I like the second one but unfortunately I need one that is at least 6.75". This one would be just a little too tight for me.

 

[lulu_ma]

Hi @Catmom I’d personally pass on the one with synthetic emeralds. Custom cutting replacement natural emeralds could be quite costly.

I’ll keep a look out for you!