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Will this custom ring setting sit flush with a matching wedding band? Advice appreciated!

rjj0211

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 17, 2021
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3
Hello! I've been trying to design a custom ring so that my partner can use it to prepare for a secret proposal. I'm looking to get a flush fit cathedral set engagement ring with a basket and 6 prongs, set as low as possible. The centre stone will be a round cut that's 7.5mm in diameter (1.5 ctew). I have a drawing to show what I'm thinking in my head, but I'm not sure if this ring is physically possible to make and if it will actually allow for a flush fit with a matching wedding band. I'm not looking to get any side or hidden diamonds on the engagement ring, nor any pave on the matching band. This was my inspiration: https://cdn.weddingbee.com/pics/389442/14030856_10208635829511790_1110197965_n.jpg?1474991695763

I have a few specific questions:

1) What is the minimum height that's likely possible to keep a flush fit? Is it possible to keep the height off the finger under 7mm? Under 7.5 mm?

2) Would having a 2 mm thick/deep bridge under the head keep the matching 2mm wedding band from diffing into the prongs? I have heard people say that I could get the bridge to be thinner in depth, but I know that the bridge will thin out over the years from daily wear.

3) I feel like the head will be quite heavy and cause the ring to spin. Is there something that can be done to the ring design to minimize spinning? I have larger knuckles so having a tight fit will make it hard to take off the ring. I am considering sizing beads on a slightly looser ring size (size 4.25 instead of 4), but I'm sure that there will be quite a bit of spinning. Would having a euro shank help? Or can I increase the depth/thickness at the base of the band from 2mm to 2.5 mm? Alternatively, would increasing the shank width to 3mm be better?

4) Is there a difference between having the 6 prongs positioned at: 1) 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11 o'clock; or 2) 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 o'clock? Are one of these orientations more prone to the wedding band digging into the prongs?

I'd appreciate all feedback and advice on how I can improve the sketch! Thanks!ring.jpg
 
1 - what's the depth of your stone? Your possible minimum height with your design is depth of stone + 2-2.5 mm.

3 - re: spinning, yes a euro shank would help, but another popular option is to get "sizing bumps" that are like two little speedbumps on the inside of your ring that can help the ring fit more tightly and prevent spinning while still allowing it to go on over larger knuckles. You're right that increasing the width in the back can also help. Depending on how BIG the difference is, you could also look into arthritic shanks, which are ring shanks that open and close. Which option is best for you depends on the size difference between knuckle and where your ring rests and personal preference. I will say my knuckle is a 4.5 while my ring area is really more like a 4 and I find by the time I eclipse 5 mm in width, whether through one or multiple rings, there's not much spinning.
 
1 - what's the depth of your stone? Your possible minimum height with your design is depth of stone + 2-2.5 mm.

3 - re: spinning, yes a euro shank would help, but another popular option is to get "sizing bumps" that are like two little speedbumps on the inside of your ring that can help the ring fit more tightly and prevent spinning while still allowing it to go on over larger knuckles. You're right that increasing the width in the back can also help. Depending on how BIG the difference is, you could also look into arthritic shanks, which are ring shanks that open and close. Which option is best for you depends on the size difference between knuckle and where your ring rests and personal preference. I will say my knuckle is a 4.5 while my ring area is really more like a 4 and I find by the time I eclipse 5 mm in width, whether through one or multiple rings, there's not much spinning.

1 - I don't have the exact dimensions for the stone yet as it hasn't arrived yet. From what I've read somewhere, moissanite is cut deeper than diamonds. This one ebay seller with a 7.5mm moissanite listed the depth at 62.5%, so around 4.7mm deep is what I assume it will be around. Am I right to assume that having the culet set low and close to the base of the prongs would keep the allowance wouldn't add much extra height to the overall height?

3- I had no idea that there was minimal spinning when multiple rings are stacked and past the 5mm width mark. That's actually great to hear! I'll likely have a 2.5 or 3 mm wide wedding band, so that should bring it to 5 - 5.5 mm. I'll look into the arthritic shank - it looks very interesting and might work very well.
 
The little diamonds in the side will wear away the wedding ring. you won't see them - so why do something destructive like that?
 
The little diamonds in the side will wear away the wedding ring. you won't see them - so why do something destructive like that?

I will not be doing any little diamonds in the side. I only used that picture as reference for a cathedral set ring with a thicker bridge.
 
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