Hello! I've been trying to design a custom ring so that my partner can use it to prepare for a secret proposal. I'm looking to get a flush fit cathedral set engagement ring with a basket and 6 prongs, set as low as possible. The centre stone will be a round cut that's 7.5mm in diameter (1.5 ctew). I have a drawing to show what I'm thinking in my head, but I'm not sure if this ring is physically possible to make and if it will actually allow for a flush fit with a matching wedding band. I'm not looking to get any side or hidden diamonds on the engagement ring, nor any pave on the matching band. This was my inspiration: https://cdn.weddingbee.com/pics/389442/14030856_10208635829511790_1110197965_n.jpg?1474991695763
I have a few specific questions:
1) What is the minimum height that's likely possible to keep a flush fit? Is it possible to keep the height off the finger under 7mm? Under 7.5 mm?
2) Would having a 2 mm thick/deep bridge under the head keep the matching 2mm wedding band from diffing into the prongs? I have heard people say that I could get the bridge to be thinner in depth, but I know that the bridge will thin out over the years from daily wear.
3) I feel like the head will be quite heavy and cause the ring to spin. Is there something that can be done to the ring design to minimize spinning? I have larger knuckles so having a tight fit will make it hard to take off the ring. I am considering sizing beads on a slightly looser ring size (size 4.25 instead of 4), but I'm sure that there will be quite a bit of spinning. Would having a euro shank help? Or can I increase the depth/thickness at the base of the band from 2mm to 2.5 mm? Alternatively, would increasing the shank width to 3mm be better?
4) Is there a difference between having the 6 prongs positioned at: 1) 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11 o'clock; or 2) 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 o'clock? Are one of these orientations more prone to the wedding band digging into the prongs?
I'd appreciate all feedback and advice on how I can improve the sketch! Thanks!
I have a few specific questions:
1) What is the minimum height that's likely possible to keep a flush fit? Is it possible to keep the height off the finger under 7mm? Under 7.5 mm?
2) Would having a 2 mm thick/deep bridge under the head keep the matching 2mm wedding band from diffing into the prongs? I have heard people say that I could get the bridge to be thinner in depth, but I know that the bridge will thin out over the years from daily wear.
3) I feel like the head will be quite heavy and cause the ring to spin. Is there something that can be done to the ring design to minimize spinning? I have larger knuckles so having a tight fit will make it hard to take off the ring. I am considering sizing beads on a slightly looser ring size (size 4.25 instead of 4), but I'm sure that there will be quite a bit of spinning. Would having a euro shank help? Or can I increase the depth/thickness at the base of the band from 2mm to 2.5 mm? Alternatively, would increasing the shank width to 3mm be better?
4) Is there a difference between having the 6 prongs positioned at: 1) 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11 o'clock; or 2) 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 o'clock? Are one of these orientations more prone to the wedding band digging into the prongs?
I'd appreciate all feedback and advice on how I can improve the sketch! Thanks!