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Yellow gold bezel for emerald cut?

Molly1975

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Messages
13
Hi all,

I was hoping to have some opinions on the setting of a stone, it is currently with a jeweller and I am awaiting a call from the goldsmith re the setting. I cannot decide between a yellow gold bezel or prongs. Either way I will have it with a plain yellow gold band. With a bezel I prefer the look when the stone is completely covered in the sides (as below), does this affect the performance of the diamond too much? I like the look of a bezel as well as the security it offers (I’m super clumsy!) but do you think not having claws is a shame?

Really appreciate any guidance or opinions!


The diamond:
IMG_7955.jpeg

The bezel setting that I like:
IMG_7707.jpeg

The more open bezel:
IMG_7682.jpeg

Two claws:
IMG_6750.jpeg
 
Hi all,

I was hoping to have some opinions on the setting of a stone, it is currently with a jeweller and I am awaiting a call from the goldsmith re the setting. I cannot decide between a yellow gold bezel or prongs. Either way I will have it with a plain yellow gold band. With a bezel I prefer the look when the stone is completely covered in the sides (as below), does this affect the performance of the diamond too much? I like the look of a bezel as well as the security it offers (I’m super clumsy!) but do you think not having claws is a shame?

Really appreciate any guidance or opinions!


The diamond:
IMG_7955.jpeg

The bezel setting that I like:
IMG_7707.jpeg

The more open bezel:
IMG_7682.jpeg

Two claws:
IMG_6750.jpeg

I forgot to say, I would like the diamond to sit as low as possible!
 
Theoretically, no - if the stone is well cut. In reality - for me - yes absolutely. I have an EC that is bezeled / enclosed on all sides, and the stone is so dark now. I'm looking to reset it.
 
Theoretically, no - if the stone is well cut. In reality - for me - yes absolutely. I have an EC that is bezeled / enclosed on all sides, and the stone is so dark now. I'm looking to reset it.

Thank you! Can I ask the specs of your stone?
 
Perhaps the open bezel would be a "safer" choice. Have you tried wrapping tin foil around your stone to
see what happens? It's worth a try to see the effect.

No, not having double-claw prongs is not a shame. I'm not even sure what you mean by that. Get what you
like. Double claw prongs are not the defacto answer to setting emerald cut stones if that's what you're asking.

I suggest going with David Klass since you're having a problem with jewelers. He does CADs so you can "see" what
you're getting although it won't give you the answer to how your stone will react to being closed in. Hopefully, the
tin-foil trick will help with that. And guess what? No judgment on your stone choice!

Also, what color is your stone? Being closed in may bring out more of the color which you may or may not like.
 
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Have you been through this thread? There are some bezel-set emerald cuts in the thread. Specifically, post 1478.
I'm sure there is more but its a long thread and I didn't go through it all. Anyway, may give you some ideas.

 
My EC is a 1.19ct E VS1 and it is set in an air gap/line bezel setting in Platinum, and I do not believe it has affected its performance myself.

Here is the CAD of the ring setting.

kan tech 002 16May2022.jpg



DK :))
 
Last edited:
I think it’s a individual stone to stone thing and hard to tell from just measurements on what stone will do what in a bezel. Bezel increases contrast in any stone - I think?
If you are concerned about color - please do get some candy in yellow ‘gold’ foil wrapper as was suggested. Place the foil as close as you can to where the bezel would be and take it to multiple lightings.

I’m reminded of someone here who had a thread not so long ago who had a (beautiful!) step cut put in a yellow bezel and didn’t enjoy the outcome.

You can have the insides of the setting rhodium plated - but some vendors only will do the area that the bezel touches the girdle. If the stones leaky - it’ll pick up basket color too.

Best wishes!
 
Any chance you have the thread for that @Rfisher ? I'm curious...
 
Any chance you have the thread for that @Rfisher ? I'm curious...

This is the one that popped in my head


Other topics are brought up- but the IGI graded E appearing warm after bezel setting in YG is a main one.
Granted it’s an antique style cut EC, but a more modern cut EC is also shown/discussed.

PS - OP, I also think not having claw prongs wouldn’t be a shame if that’s not what you want.
 
I don't think not having prongs is an issue, if you prefer a bezel. If I were doing this ring, I'd do the more open bezel and see if they could rhodium plate the interior of the bezel in white to avoid it picking up the yellow metal color.
 
I don't think not having prongs is an issue, if you prefer a bezel. If I were doing this ring, I'd do the more open bezel and see if they could rhodium plate the interior of the bezel in white to avoid it picking up the yellow metal color.

Great idea- thank you! Will definitely look into rhodium plating
 
I think it’s a individual stone to stone thing and hard to tell from just measurements on what stone will do what in a bezel. Bezel increases contrast in any stone - I think?
If you are concerned about color - please do get some candy in yellow ‘gold’ foil wrapper as was suggested. Place the foil as close as you can to where the bezel would be and take it to multiple lightings.

I’m reminded of someone here who had a thread not so long ago who had a (beautiful!) step cut put in a yellow bezel and didn’t enjoy the outcome.

You can have the insides of the setting rhodium plated - but some vendors only will do the area that the bezel touches the girdle. If the stones leaky - it’ll pick up basket color too.

Best wishes!

Thank you so much, this is so helpful!
 
Perhaps the open bezel would be a "safer" choice. Have you tried wrapping tin foil around your stone to
see what happens? It's worth a try to see the effect.

No, not having double-claw prongs is not a shame. I'm not even sure what you mean by that. Get what you
like. Double claw prongs are not the defacto answer to setting emerald cut stones if that's what you're asking.

I suggest going with David Klass since you're having a problem with jewelers. He does CADs so you can "see" what
you're getting although it won't give you the answer to how your stone will react to being closed in. Hopefully, the
tin-foil trick will help with that. And guess what? No judgment on your stone choice!

Also, what color is your stone? Being closed in may bring out more of the color which you may or may not like.

Thank you, trying the tin foil for sure! The colour is E
 
This is the one that popped in my head


Other topics are brought up- but the IGI graded E appearing warm after bezel setting in YG is a main one.
Granted it’s an antique style cut EC, but a more modern cut EC is also shown/discussed.

PS - OP, I also think not having claw prongs wouldn’t be a shame if that’s not what you want.

I was also going to post this thread. Once it was encased the OP on that thread felt it went too warm for her liking, especially because it was a high color stone to start (E)

This is a good post for comparison https://www.pricescope.com/communit...-possibly-in-works.274590/page-5#post-5203610
 
If you set an E in a closed yellow gold bezel like that it, for me, would totally negate the point of paying for an E stone. Because it will look tinted by the yellow gold. If you want the stone to look white don’t set it in a fully enclosed yellow bezel.
 
Are you adverse to doing a two-tone ring? You could do the open bezel in white gold or platinum and the shank in yellow gold.
 
I like the idea of an open bezel, with either white or yellow gold bezel. I think Lulu_ma’s ring is beautiful and the diamond looks nice and white with the contrast of the YG.
 
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