Zendaya’s ring: let’s talk about the button back and modern collets

[Tonks]

Zendaya and Tom Holland are engaged. Looks to me (and many media outlets) like a Jessica McCormack button back.



Can we talk about this version of the Georgian collet? How are the backs of these rings done? Looking at the JMcC website, it is hard to see the backs of her rings. Instagram leads me to believe they are completely closed. There is a video of the making of her gypset earrings and the backs are closed. Period. No opening at all.



Same with a massive button back pendant.
Here’s the back view:



While the look is great and I assume it’s super comfortable…but how on earth is it wearable as a ring in terms of water? Wouldn’t it get behind the stone? How could you clean it without unmounting the stone?

At any rate, this has puzzled me for a while so please, discuss!

 

[Tonks]

A couple of years ago one of our members did a gorgeous modern collet setting.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/going-for-gold-aca-in-a-modern-collet.275854/

This seems like such a better idea to be wearable. You have both the look and the ability to clean the stone.

 

[Tonks]

And since I mentioned Zendaya…..internet law mandates that this be shared again:

Tom Holland Umbrella

 

[empliau]

And since I mentioned Zendaya…..internet law mandates that this be shared again:

Tom Holland Umbrella

This is the moment I and millions like me fell in love with Tom Holland. Thank you for the reminder!

 

[Rfisher]

Mine is fully enclosed. It’s made by Sako who says it’s airtight.
I assume that remains until damage makes it otherwise. Then moisture and grime will get in. And again I assume it will need to be reworked at that point.

If it were a daily driver for me - I would want the open back option in a replica.
Actual antique closed back would be cool to have - but doubt it’d be a daily driver and would be known it’d need ‘spa days’ .

 

[Mooshi]

The closed back looks like the comfy-sweatpants of a ring though, so smooooth!

On topic-ish, is this how rose cut rings are mounted, since a foil is commonly used under the diamond? I mean with a closed back, perhaps button style? I'm considering making a rose cut solitaire style ring with a closed back, but hadn't even considered the cleaning possibilities.

 

[Tonks]

Mine is fully enclosed. It’s made by Sako who says it’s airtight.
I assume that remains until damage makes it otherwise. Then moisture and grime will get in. And again I assume it will need to be reworked at that point.

If it were a daily driver for me - I would want the open back option in a replica.
Actual antique closed back would be cool to have - but doubt it’d be a daily driver and would be known it’d need ‘spa days’ .

Fascinating! Can you share a photo?

How would you make something like this airtight? I’m envisioning gaskets, etc….I just don’t see how metal could be air or watertight.

Is this your engagement ring?

 

[Tonks]

The closed back looks like the comfy-sweatpants of a ring though, so smooooth!

On topic-ish, is this how rose cut rings are mounted, since a foil is commonly used under the diamond? I mean with a closed back, perhaps button style? I'm considering making a rose cut solitaire style ring with a closed back, but hadn't even considered the cleaning possibilities.

Oh, they look sooooo comfy with that rounded back!

Now, I am also weighing the mental comfort of having a clean diamond and for me this would be net UNcomfy.

 

[Rfisher]

Can you share a photo?

Not a diamond nor engagement ring tho

I didn’t ask the methodology of how it’s made to be airtight, or it it’s tested to verify that outcome. Don’t think there’s gaskets - but tbh I have no clue.

 

[asterismdispersion]

Zendaya's ring is pretty and unusual! Of course the @Rfisher dark spinel in the collet setting is a work of art.

I had a collet top setting done with Sako. I opted for a platinum collet that was open underneath to be easy to clean. The little tab prongs were shaved and polished by hand to give a handcrafted look in a modern piece.

 

[Niel]

Not a diamond nor engagement ring tho


I didn’t ask the methodology of how it’s made to be airtight, or it it’s tested to verify that outcome. Don’t think there’s gaskets - but tbh I have no clue.

Twins! But mine is completely open under doe exactly the reasons you mentioned.

 

[Lookinagain]

I'm not careful enough to keep a ring set with a "button" back clean. Maybe if it took it off every time I washed my hands or did dishes, etc. But I don't. I'd love to know if it's water tight as it does look comfy, but maybe she doesn't do dishes???

 

[Tonks]

Not a diamond nor engagement ring tho


I didn’t ask the methodology of how it’s made to be airtight, or it it’s tested to verify that outcome. Don’t think there’s gaskets - but tbh I have no clue.

I was joking about gaskets. I just do not understand how metal and stone could be watertight and thinking about it made me think of doors on a ship. Your ring is lovely!

Zendaya's ring is pretty and unusual! Of course the @Rfisher dark spinel in the collet setting is a work of art.

I had a collet top setting done with Sako. I opted for a platinum collet that was open underneath to be easy to clean. The little tab prongs were shaved and polished by hand to give a handcrafted look in a modern piece.

This is beautiful. I love that it’s open underneath. Is it standard for collet settings to be closed on the sides? I could see that keeping the stone cleaner for longer.

I'm not careful enough to keep a ring set with a "button" back clean. Maybe if it took it off every time I washed my hands or did dishes, etc. But I don't. I'd love to know if it's water tight as it does look comfy, but maybe she doesn't do dishes???

No dishes makes sense, but surely it would get wet enough with washing your hands? And just the daily gunk of life?

Even a steamer isn’t going to do much good with a closed back. And do they get it sparkling clean before they plonk it in the setting?

Realizing this setting works pretty much the way I thought it did and I’m just scratching my head about how it’s practical for daily wear.

 

[Kim N]

And since I mentioned Zendaya…..internet law mandates that this be shared again:

Tom Holland Umbrella

I don't know how I missed seeing this all these years, but now I've watched it three times today already!

 

[Tonks]

I don't know how I missed seeing this all these years, but now I've watched it three times today already!

Isn’t it the BEST?!? It is amazing on so many levels. And internet law states that any time you see it you have to share it!

 

[Pomelo]

@Tonks I have both an open and closed back Georgian collet setting!

Ophelia the OEC is open back, and the pear moissanite is closed back (and is a replica of Jessica McCormack that I found second hand).

The closed button back is very smooth and comfortable. But urgh, there are definitely some moisture/grime spots appearing behind the stone and I have no idea how to get rid of it. For that reason, I think it’s a poor setting - unless it’s a piece that only comes out on special occasions a couple of times a year.

Ophelia is set low and is comfortable, and more importantly - I can clean her!

I think you can see the grime spots on the pear in the photo below - and it’s not because the surface is dirty

My rings are currently at the bank so I can’t take comparison photos of the back, but I’ve found photos from the original listings. Note that Ophelia has a sizing band.

ETA: I’m conscious that there is a quality difference between my three-figure closed-back (but still 18k and SS) ring and JMcC’s five/six-figure rings, but I do think the cleaning access issue still applies!

(PS - I think Tom Holland and Zendaya are a lovely couple! I don’t know much about them but they strike me as mature, supportive and down to earth)

 

[newdiamondworld]

If you visit Jessica McCormack site and go through her engagement ring section you can see that not all of your button back rings are completely closed back even if they look like that from first glance

 

[Dreamer_D]

Yanno, the Georian period was what... the 1700s? Nobody has glasses, only candle light, only the uber wealthy wore diamonds and they never did anything with their hands. I can see why they didn't have a problem with closed-back settings that trap grime if you do any basic manual labour

 

[lulu_ma]

Yanno, the Georian period was what... the 1700s? Nobody has glasses, only candle light, only the uber wealthy wore diamonds and they never did anything with their hands. I can see why they didn't have a problem with closed-back settings that trap grime if you do any basic manual labour

I don’t think they washed very often either!