A visit to Mikimoto NYC... And musings...

[yssie]

Vis-a-vis the matching issues highlighted above, it's not clear to me when/where the grading takes place. If they are grade intrinsically as one-offs, then who is responsible for the matching?

And does someone "check the pairs" like when you buy shoes at REI? Could swapping have occurred by customer or SA? If you were to bring out and play with four different sets of (say) 8.5mm AAA...? Some on here (and in the wild) clearly have a more sophisticated eye for color than the typical SA, even in a high-end boutique.

I’ll bet in the more common sizes they take calipers to all stud earrings that could potentially get mixed up. Same size bracket/metal colour/visual quality assessment. I can’t envision someone pulling off a switcheroo in-store given how volatile the inventory is - but I’ve wondered how they authenticate returns, maybe there are extra checks of some sort on returned goods of especially high-value? Like my vet has the portable x-ray come in Tuesdays and Thursdays

 

[LilAlex]

I’ll bet in the more common sizes they take calipers to all stud earrings that could potentially get mixed up. Same size bracket/metal colour/visual quality assessment.

I mean in terms of within-pair color matching -- all the same size and grade and metal but maybe this half of one pair goes best with this half of another pair... But I guess you are suggesting that they never have, like, four pairs available (for $37K a pair) for a customer to choose from and mix-and-match?

 

[love_pearls]

My understanding is that new wealth in China is buying out everything in sight. Whatever “it” is, they can afford “it”, and they aren’t especially particular about “it”! But I also think America is probably a third tier market for Mikimoto - my guesses would be east Asia first, then the Middle East… So maybe we don’t get the truly premier goods? Especially when those goods are scarce. I’m hoping to get to Japan this winter and I cannot wait to check Ginza out

I also don’t know exactly where in Mikimoto’s food chain the grading happens - could be that there’s a corporate entity that establishes grade and then those goods are disseminated around the world. Or each geography does its own grading and if that’s the case then it seems very possible for Mikimoto America’s AAA/Reserve standard to deviate from Best of the Best in Asia. Which I would assume is as close to source of truth as one can get!

Lots of rhetorical questions that I know I’ll never get answers to

In Asia, I don't think you can find a pair of earrings that are 9.5 mm, I asked my SA last month and there's no stock in AAA 9.5 mm.

It seems that only Mikimoto has shortages? Other brands might not be tight in stock.

At Ginza and other stores in Asia, the best grade for bracelet you can find is the premium. And they look good enough for me. For that price in the US for the AAA bracelet, I would rather put it in a pearl 16'' necklace or a long necklace.

I put my AAA 9mm earrings next to my premium bracelet and I don't see the big difference. Maybe you can spot the difference but I couldn't.
I wore my bracelet this afternoon for the first time and it got hit on the resting of the arm chair I was sitting in and my Goodness, the resting was made of metal and because it's premium quality, it didn't impact me/ ouching me emotionally that much.

 

[yssie]

I mean in terms of within-pair color matching -- all the same size and grade and metal but maybe this half of one pair goes best with this half of another pair... But I guess you are suggesting that they never have, like, four pairs available (for $37K a pair) for a customer to choose from and mix-and-match?

Yeah. They’ll ship alternates in on request, if available, but generally speaking there aren’t going to be multiple high-quality-grade options of similar size mounted in the same metal that have almost-interchangeable overtones to mix and match with. Even within the same size bracket - the exact sizes will differ enough to make that not plausible. Definitely not an inventory smorgasbord.

The 9.5 AAA, that’s the only pair available globally right now. (Or at least when I went in in October). When I got my 9.25mm pair couple years ago it was the only pair available globally at that time and there weren’t any 9.5s (but I was given the option to commission a pair if I wanted). Recently a friend’s SA had four 8mm-ish AAA pairs sent in to compare - inventory picking up under 9mm makes sense, seems to be true of the akoya industry at large.

 

[yssie]

In Asia, I don't think you can find a pair of earrings that are 9.5 mm, I asked my SA last month and there's no stock in AAA 9.5 mm.

It seems that only Mikimoto has shortages? Other brands might not be tight in stock.

At Ginza and other stores in Asia, the best grade for bracelet you can find is the premium. And they look good enough for me. For that price in the US for the AAA bracelet, I would rather put it in a pearl 16'' necklace or a long necklace.

I put my AAA 9mm earrings next to my premium bracelet and I don't see the big difference. Maybe you can spot the difference but I couldn't.
I wore my bracelet this afternoon for the first time and it got hit on the resting of the arm chair I was sitting in and my Goodness, the resting was made of metal and because it's premium quality, it didn't impact me/ ouching me emotionally that much.

Your Premium grade bracelet must be more lustrous than the AA bracelet that I saw here. Just going by the fact that I don’t see a difference compared to your AAA studs.

I have “better” pearls and “beater” pearls, I don’t have any Mikimoto beater strands though I do wear my cherry blossom bracelet with my Perlee bangles but that’s only got three pearls and they were A+, I don’t mind if they get scratched up. Same philosophy on it not hurting as much!

 

[love_pearls]

Your Premium grade bracelet must be more lustrous than the AA bracelet that I saw here. Just going by the fact that I don’t see a difference compared to your AAA studs.

I have “better” pearls and “beater” pearls, I don’t have any Mikimoto beater strands though I do wear my cherry blossom bracelet with my Perlee bangles but that’s only got three pearls and they were A+, I don’t mind if they get scratched up. Same philosophy on it not hurting as much!

Looking at the pictures, it does seem like the 7mm AA you tried on is a bit different than my 7.5 mm AA.

Maybe because of wear and tear, my AAA earrings lost a bit of lustre?

I am going to concentrate on Mikimoto now than vca because pearls are low-keyed and no one can guess how much a strand cost me. I feel embarrassed when someone can do a bit of mental calculation on the total amount of the jewellery and clothing that I put on.

 

[yssie]

Mikimoto, Paspaley, and VCA are the only three I have any real interest in. I mean - there are one-off pieces from other brands that I love, sure, but it’s not the “I want to learn about the history of this house and I want pretty much everything it creates” that those three inspire.

But I sure as heck wouldn’t want to begin a VCA journey in 2023. I’ve got enough time and spend with the brand that for now I trust I’ll get what I want… But between low boutique inventory, no-order lists, prespend thresholds, price increases - I feel VCA is becoming increasingly inhospitable to anyone outside the 0.1%. I know that it’s only a matter of time before my own history and spend “isn’t enough” anymore!

In contrast - Mikimoto and Paspaley are so welcoming! A very different way of conducting business. Your only obstacle to buying from either brand is your budget. Which is how it should be!! Sigh.

Looking at the pictures, it does seem like the 7mm AA you tried on is a bit different than my 7.5 mm AA.

Maybe because of wear and tear, my AAA earrings lost a bit of lustre?

I am going to concentrate on Mikimoto now than vca because pearls are low-keyed and no one can guess how much a strand cost me. I feel embarrassed when someone can do a bit of mental calculation on the total amount of the jewellery and clothing that I put on.

 

[love_pearls]

Mikimoto, Paspaley, and VCA are the only three I have any real interest in. I mean - there are one-off pieces from other brands that I love, sure, but it’s not the “I want to learn about the history of this house and I want pretty much everything it creates” that those three inspire.

But I sure as heck wouldn’t want to begin a VCA journey in 2023. I’ve got enough time and spend with the brand that for now I trust I’ll get what I want… But between low boutique inventory, no-order lists, prespend thresholds, price increases - I feel VCA is becoming increasingly inhospitable to anyone outside the 0.1%. I know that it’s only a matter of time before my own history and spend “isn’t enough” anymore!

In contrast - Mikimoto and Paspaley are so welcoming! A very different way of conducting business. Your only obstacle to buying from either brand is your budget. Which is how it should be!! Sigh.

For vca, the man made scarcity couldn't move me at all. I accidentally found out how the pieces are made and how it would flood the market in decades to come. Now, it's already flooded. Even for items with higher price points, it's still made more or less the same way as the entrance level pieces.

Of course for pearls, the more you wear them, the quicker they will deteriorate but at least I know that nature makes them.

 

[NY_Resonant]

October 2023 update:

I stopped in at the NYC flagship a few weeks ago. Just a few photos - bracelets first. Prices are sky high. OMG.

From near-hand toward elbow:
7-7.5mm AA
7.5-8mm AAA
8-8.5mm AAA




So (in America right now) non-AAA grades may have the diamond clasp, but only AAA/Reserve will have the diamond in the M charm. Of course we don’t know how long that might last as a unique identifier!




The difference in luster between AA and AAA is visible. This is about what I expected - it’s not a dramatic difference but it’s there.




I wanted to like the 7-7.5 because I like the price best!! But it was just too small on me. I think this 7.5-8 is a nice standalone size for me. I didn’t buy it - the pricetag kinda makes my stomach flop - but I do want a classic bracelet from Mikimoto. Kicking myself hard for not buying last year



- - - - - - - - - -

Studs.

Okay, this was shocking.

This is the largest size Mikimoto offers - 9.5mm. And AAA in this size was under 22k in 2021.







Y’all. They. Don’t. Match.

$37000, and they don’t match. And this is the only pair available… I have no explanation. Independently each pearl is stunning, flawless, faultless.

A friend recently tried to purchase studs in a slightly smaller size, she had the same experience with imperfect matching.

I wonder if quality control has slipped lately? Or is general grading becoming more forgiving with the akoya shortage?

You ruined me with that color tone matching iphone game (haha), my first thought when I saw those studs was that they didn't match!!! Ridiculous, for that price it should be beyond perfection.

Extremely noticeable difference between that AA bracelet and the AAA. I did personally see very noticeable variations in luster between "great" AA and "bad" AA at Mikimoto in the past though for what that is worth... So maybe this was a bad AA.

Regarding the bracelets, it could be my iphone tiny screen but the 8-8.5mm bracelet appears to have slightly better luster than the 7.5-8mm?

 

[NY_Resonant]

Looking at the pictures, it does seem like the 7mm AA you tried on is a bit different than my 7.5 mm AA.

Maybe because of wear and tear, my AAA earrings lost a bit of lustre?

I am going to concentrate on Mikimoto now than vca because pearls are low-keyed and no one can guess how much a strand cost me. I feel embarrassed when someone can do a bit of mental calculation on the total amount of the jewellery and clothing that I put on.

Your AAA earring is noticeably larger than your bracelet and I imagine that is why your bracelet actually appears to have better luster (slightly) than the beautiful earrings to my eyes.

It is hard to find a 9mm+ pearl that is equal or superior in luster to a 8mm or 8.5mm "high quality" pearl, irrespective of the way they grade. I think every vendor has to have a sliding scale of luster grading based on size once you get above a certain mm range.

Anyhow, looks to me like you grabbed a "High Range" AA grade bracelet! Congrats!

 

[yssie]

You ruined me with that color tone matching iphone game (haha), my first thought when I saw those studs was that they didn't match!!! Ridiculous, for that price it should be beyond perfection.

I ruined myself with that game. Jump the queue into the club of pearls buyers no vendor wants to deal with

Extremely noticeable difference between that AA bracelet and the AAA. I did personally see very noticeable variations in luster between "great" AA and "bad" AA at Mikimoto in the past though for what that is worth... So maybe this was a bad AA.

Regarding the bracelets, it could be my iphone tiny screen but the 8-8.5mm bracelet appears to have slightly better luster than the 7.5-8mm?

It does, your eyes don’t deceive you Another reason I couldn’t buy the 7.5-8. Even if money had been burning holes in my pockets...

 

[NY_Resonant]

I ruined myself with that game. Jump the queue into the club of pearls buyers no vendor wants to deal with


It does, your eyes don’t deceive you Another reason I couldn’t buy the 7.5-8. Even if money had been burning holes in my pockets...

Yea, no way the 7.5-8mm could have been bought in that kind of situation having first hand knowledge it wasn't "top of range" for the grade. Would have never been a mind clean purchase.

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

Heres I finds theses for yous.

Pardon Our Interruption...

cheers--Sharon

 

[NY_Resonant]

HI:

Heres I finds theses for yous.

Pardon Our Interruption...

cheers--Sharon

I think @yssie will climb a tall mountain for WSS but if you want her to fly into Orbit, find us a PEPCA Superl akoya 8mm+ necklace for sale in 2023…

 

[canuk-gal]

I think @yssie will climb a tall mountain for WSS but if you want her to fly into Orbit, find us a PEPCA Superl akoya 8mm+ necklace for sale in 2023…

Is cans onlys dos so muches

 

[yssie]

@canuk-gal, @NY_Resonant, you’re so kind to think of me during my time of need.

However, at the same time, I must admit I’m a little hurt - if you really loved me you’d have already made arrangements for a hundred-year loan and prequalified me for loan forgiveness…

How much do you love me?

 

[fussykiki]

I notice that Mikimoto doesn't knot the pearls all the way now. Only last five pearls for necklace and last three for bracelet. What do you all think about that? I am tempted to restring my necklace because it is a bit long for my liking. I think I can handle it myself if only knot the last five pearls, but I worry I may regret it.

 

[love_pearls]

I notice that Mikimoto doesn't knot the pearls all the way now. Only last five pearls for necklace and last three for bracelet. What do you all think about that? I am tempted to restring my necklace because it is a bit long for my liking. I think I can handle it myself if only knot the last five pearls, but I worry I may regret it.

Probably you can notice that mikimoto only knots the first three in my bracelet. I like it this way because the first three knots create a curve that gravitates towards the clasp that makes it easier for me to put on. I can put mine on without any help nor using tapes to secure it.

I have tried on a long necklace that got full knot in Ginza store and it felt stiff to me and it's very unnatural on. I like my necklace with some movement and when they are fully knotted, it's very stiff and I don't like it.

As for security issues, I won't wear mine when I'm doing exercises or to a gym or go hiking with it. It's not an issue for me.

I think for everyday wear and light travel, they are secure enough.

I actually broke mikimoto's short double strand necklace when I was trying to put it on underneath my shirt collar, the thread came off just close to the clasp so the whole strand was still intact. I think the stiffer the necklaces, the easier it is to break.

 

[pearlsngems]

@fussykiki,
As long as you restring them faithfully when the silk begins to get weak (every year if you wear the pearls often) you should not lose any pearls through silk breakage.

@love_pearls,
Pearl necklaces are typically knotted tight because the silk knots loosen with wear. If they started off at the perfect degree of tightness, gaps would soon develop between the pearls. While I don't generally hanging pearl necklaces, in this case you could hang it for a while to allow gravity to do its thing and loosen the knots until they are the way you like them. the way you like them.

 

[yssie]

Per corporate - Mikimoto uses polyester thread now, made from recycled plastic bottles! No more silk

Only stringing the last few pearls always scares me, can't lie. I haven't seen that in the strands in my boutique yet. But I know I go to the other extreme - I reckon my pearls will get damaged before my threading or knots fail, I use as much thread as possible and my knotting is not delicate.

I assume (hope!) Mikimoto would string a new purchase with knots between each pearl if a customer requested it...

 

[love_pearls]

Per corporate - Mikimoto uses polyester thread now, made from recycled plastic bottles! No more silk

Only stringing the last few pearls always scares me, can't lie. I haven't seen that in the strands in my boutique yet. But I know I go to the other extreme - I reckon my pearls will get damaged before my threading or knots fail, I use as much thread as possible and my knotting is not delicate.

I assume (hope!) Mikimoto would string a new purchase with knots between each pearl if a customer requested it...

I don't worry much. If something is meant to break, it will break no matter what.

May I know if there's proof that they are not using silk any more? I don't want to cut mine to check lol. The pearls are what matter, not the thread. Silk is delicate, if the use of polyester holds the pearls better and be more secure, why not polyester?

The more I read the information here, the more I value the brand Mikimoto. For example, the lady who brought in her vintage 16" A+ strand for restring and get valuation form, the doctor who purchased the reserved strand for his wife, another lady who inherited both non- branded and branded jewellery and said how easy it is for her to put the branded jewellery on sale (I think in the future, if those who inherit my collection and do not like them and want to sell, they will go through less trouble) After all, I see Mikimoto's vintage pearl necklace on Christie's auction site, not Takahashi's pearl on auction house.

What's more, a member's purchase from Takahashi is only equal to Mikimoto's better AA quality got me convinced that Mikimoto is what I want.

Apart from that, a lot of mentioning of the same company 'Takahashi' got me suspicious that there are some affiliations going on here.

Last but not least, after seeing Takahashi's imitation of VCA Alhambra allows me to know that this is the company I don't want to be associated with. To me, VCA is VCA is VCA.

Thank you all for the helpful advice and valuable information.

Peace!

 

[yssie]

I don't worry much. If something is meant to break, it will break no matter what.

May I know if there's proof that they are not using silk any more? I don't want to cut mine to check lol. The pearls are what matter, not the thread. Silk is delicate, if the use of polyester holds the pearls better and be more secure, why not polyester?

Oh I much prefer the idea of polyster, much stronger and and long-lasting! And the fact that it's from recycled plastic is a very nice feel-good. I was informed of this via Mikimoto America's help line, and I presume the same string is used world-wide. Have you heard something different about the thread in your part of the world?

The more I read the information here, the more I value the brand Mikimoto. For example, the lady who brought in her vintage 16" A+ strand for restring and get valuation form, the doctor who purchased the reserved strand for his wife, another lady who inherited both non- branded and branded jewellery and said how easy it is for her to put the branded jewellery on sale (I think in the future, if those who inherit my collection and do not like them and want to sell, they will go through less trouble) After all, I see Mikimoto's vintage pearl necklace on Christie's auction site, not Takahashi's pearl on auction house.

What's more, a member's purchase here is only equal to Mikimoto's better AA quality got me convinced that Mikimoto is what I want.

I think it's perfectly fine to prefer spending your money on a branded piece. For all the reasons you mentioned. I've got both branded and non-branded pieces and to me they're equally valuable and equally important, but for different reasons. I remember that you and I have talked about this in other threads before

Apart from that, a lot of mentioning of the same company 'Takahashi' got me suspicious that there are some affiliations going on here.

No, there are no affiliations. Takahashi is a supplier based in Japan, none of us on PS consumers work for any of the vendors we buy from. We aren't allowed to. A bunch of us just like buying from them

Last but not least, after seeing Takahashi's imitation of VCA Alhambra allows me to know that this is the company I don't want to be associated with. To me, VCA is VCA is VCA.

I don't recall this, Takahashi's jeweller and Van Cleef have such completely different aesthetics, I can't even imagine Takahashi wanting to repro something from them! That would be so strange. Do you have any photos or links to what you saw?

 

[NY_Resonant]

I don't worry much. If something is meant to break, it will break no matter what.

May I know if there's proof that they are not using silk any more? I don't want to cut mine to check lol. The pearls are what matter, not the thread. Silk is delicate, if the use of polyester holds the pearls better and be more secure, why not polyester?

The more I read the information here, the more I value the brand Mikimoto. For example, the lady who brought in her vintage 16" A+ strand for restring and get valuation form, the doctor who purchased the reserved strand for his wife, another lady who inherited both non- branded and branded jewellery and said how easy it is for her to put the branded jewellery on sale (I think in the future, if those who inherit my collection and do not like them and want to sell, they will go through less trouble) After all, I see Mikimoto's vintage pearl necklace on Christie's auction site, not Takahashi's pearl on auction house.

What's more, a member's purchase from Takahashi is only equal to Mikimoto's better AA quality got me convinced that Mikimoto is what I want.

Apart from that, a lot of mentioning of the same company 'Takahashi' got me suspicious that there are some affiliations going on here.

Last but not least, after seeing Takahashi's imitation of VCA Alhambra allows me to know that this is the company I don't want to be associated with. To me, VCA is VCA is VCA.

Thank you all for the helpful advice and valuable information.

Peace!

Imitation of VCA Alhambra? Link please because I’m on their instagram and don’t see anything like that.

You are 100% right that unless someone is lucky or buys a Granpearl certified piece, buying the Takahashi highest grade will most likely be around the Mikimoto AA level (If you select well, otherwise A+).

What else can you expect from something that sells for 8% of the Mikimoto AAA price or 15%-ish of the mikimoto AA price?

If you go the GranPearl route, which will compare pretty darn well with Mikimoto AAA, you’ll pay 20% the price or so. For a 8.5-9mm necklace, 10-15k for a granpearl vs 60k+ for mikimoto AAA.

If you are worried about resale value, take that extra 50k savings and invest it in a trust for your heirs… Pearls are not an investment vehicle i’d recommend!

 

[love_pearls]

I don't recall this, Takahashi's jeweller and Van Cleef have such completely different aesthetics, I can't even imagine Takahashi wanting to repro something from them! That would be so strange. Do you have any photos or links to what you saw?

Pave Alhambra motif?

Don't tell me that it's a universal symbol lol.

 

[love_pearls]

Imitation of VCA Alhambra? Link please because I’m on their instagram and don’t see anything like that.

You are 100% right that unless someone is lucky or buys a Granpearl certified piece, buying the Takahashi highest grade will most likely be around the Mikimoto AA level (If you select well, otherwise A+).

What else can you expect from something that sells for 8% of the Mikimoto AAA price or 15%-ish of the mikimoto AA price?

If you go the GranPearl route, which will compare pretty darn well with Mikimoto AAA, you’ll pay 20% the price or so. For a 8.5-9mm necklace, 10-15k for a granpearl vs 60k+ for mikimoto AAA.

If you are worried about resale value, take that extra 50k savings and invest it in a trust for your heirs… Pearls are not an investment vehicle i’d recommend!

I purchased for my enjoyment. Not investment.

Luckily I am petite, I don't need a 8.5 mm pearl necklace to wear me instead of me wearing it.

The last advice I need to hear is from some stock brokers or banker's asking people to invest.

 

[NY_Resonant]

I purchased for my enjoyment. Not investment.

Luckily I am petite, I don't need a 8.5 mm pearl necklace to wear me instead of me wearing it.

The last advice I need to hear is from some stock brokers or banker's asking people to invest.

That’s definitely the way to buy pearls, for the enjoyment of their amazing beauty!

I’m jealous that you are petite, my family is tall and big boned! It makes getting quality pearls without breaking the bank a difficult thing unfortunately.

 

[yssie]

@love_pearls I don’t like that either. I’m glad it’s not a whole necklace full.

That’s definitely the way to buy pearls, for the enjoyment of their amazing beauty!

 

[dk168]

I’m jealous that you are petite, my family is tall and big boned! It makes getting quality pearls without breaking the bank a difficult thing unfortunately.

Yup, I have similar issues in that I am short yet plus size with a chunky neck.

I wear 8-9mm around my neck usually with a buttoned down collared shirt for business. It is too small for dressier occasions when I wear low cut V-neck tops.

Definitely go big or go home nowadays. Not looking to purchase single strands below 10mm; and I would love a strand of doubles in 8-9mm.

DK

 

[love_pearls]

@fussykiki,
As long as you restring them faithfully when the silk begins to get weak (every year if you wear the pearls often) you should not lose any pearls through silk breakage.

@love_pearls,
Pearl necklaces are typically knotted tight because the silk knots loosen with wear. If they started off at the perfect degree of tightness, gaps would soon develop between the pearls. While I don't generally hanging pearl necklaces, in this case you could hang it for a while to allow gravity to do its thing and loosen the knots until they are the way you like them. the way you like them.

Thank you for your reply.

Looking back at many of your posts about pearls, it seems like you really give impartial advice without personal judgement or embedded marketing.

You might not write long posts but many of the things said are quite sensible and respectful about other people's choices.

Thanks.

 

[love_pearls]

Mikimoto now uses Polyester thread instead of silk thread. Here are three types of threads that members here might consider using for pearls.




Here is something more educational and helpful instead of throwing evil eyes and saying Mikimoto uses thread made from recycled plastic bottles.