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All About Asschers

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Storm that 5point5asscher image is one I posted, I LOVE IT! I think it''s an older stone from a Cartier piece.

Does it look like a RA...or a generic?
 
Date: 1/19/2005 2:58
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9 PM
Author: Mara
Storm that 5point5asscher image is one I posted, I LOVE IT! I think it''s an older stone from a Cartier piece.

Does it look like a RA...or a generic?
generic.
Notice the wide steps.
A RA would have narrower steps.
It is a Cartier.
 
Date: 1/19/2005 3:10:30 PM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 1/19/2005 2:589 PM
Author: Mara
Storm that 5point5asscher image is one I posted, I LOVE IT! I think it''s an older stone from a Cartier piece.
Does it look like a RA...or a generic?
generic.
Notice the wide steps.
The picture is a 5 carat stone dated around 1920 by the seller (Nelson Rarities, the picture comes from their site). The Id. makes me doubt that stone is done by the modern Ec recipe.
I do not know if there was a standard cut (independent of the size and shape of the stone that is) for the traditional asscher. Perhaps someone in the know can chime in ?

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Here''s how Cristies describes the cut:
(the text is edited).


AsscherTheory.JPG
 
Mara, I have been looking for about a month for an nice non-branded "asscher" diamond. I have now seen quite a few "asscher" diamonds in person, and for me one of the more important factors in the number of step cuts in the pavillion. Every four or five step cut asscher I have seen was quite nice. These are harder to find but worth the effort. Of course, if you get a RA it will automatically have a five step cut pavillion. Based on my observations, the extra step cuts in the pavillion give the diamond more brilliance (you have more facets) and seem to give it that deep, repeating pattern when you look down into the table. Asschers with a five step cut pavillion will have a GIA cert that states "cut cornered square step cut" as opposed to the usual "square emerald cut".

In another post I started, Mike Asscher of the Asscher family also seemed to note that an asscher with a five step cut pavillion is the RA cut. In fact, the plot for a "cut cornered square step cut" is exactly the same as the RA plot.

Storm has stated that there is no real difference between a four or five step cut and a three step cut but my eyes tell me there is. If you get a chance try to compare a generic three step with a five step. I might be seeing things but the five step just seems to have more obvious repeating, concentric octagons as you look into the table giving it that deep, "asscher look". (Also, ever four and five step (I have seen only three) had that stop-sign look)
 
The question of color and clarity comes up often.
An eye clean si1 is possible if the inclusions are light enough but vs2 or better may be safer.
This is another area where you have to rely on your vendor until you can see it for yourself.

In an rb im comfortable going down to an i or some j''s and think they will face up white enough more so with some flourecence.
In an asscher I think you might notice some tint in anything under H with G or better being a very safe bet.
All of the J asschers Iv seen have had some noticible to me tint.
 
More numbers but keep in mind that numbers dont tell you much:

There are really multiple groups of cutting styles in asschers that have there own rules.
In general the best no matter which style will have a crown height of at least 10%.

the best of the modern interpretations will have roughly 10%-12% crown height, med range girdle, table under 61 and and a depth of %60-%65.
The cutting on these has to be spot on or they bark.

The classic style with have crown heights 10% to 15%+ ,tables under 61% with mid to high 50s being better, and total depth of 68%-75%
There is a little greater variation tolerance in these and they can still look awesome.


Then there is the large table cut that I don''t like.
Tables larger than 65% , depths from 60%-80% barkers one and all as far as im concerned.

Then there is the royal asschers which is a story in itself.
 
Strm tell the Royal Asscher story please!
 
Date: 7/26/2005 8:23:38 PM
Author: Mara
Strm tell the Royal Asscher story please!
When i get a chance I will try but might be a while.
 
Different step patterns in asschers.

asschersteps2.jpg
 
facetsasschers.jpg
 
As my research continues im adding to this thread:

GIA vg/vg fpr sym/polish is fine in all the cases iv seen there wasnt an eye visible problem caused by it.
While ex/ex does show greater care in cutting that doesnt always equal a better asscher.
I would not drop down to good in either.
 
I saw a 1.2 carat asscher 2 weeks ago on a knottie and was really impressed by its beauty. It was so crisp it almost didn''t look real, but it barley looked like a carat. Why?
 
Date: 12/14/2005 5:54:26 PM
Author: lmurden
I saw a 1.2 carat asscher 2 weeks ago on a knottie and was really impressed by its beauty. It was so crisp it almost didn''t look real, but it barley looked like a carat. Why?

asschers run on the deep side so they are a little smaller per ct than some other styles but they also cost slightly less per ct to make up for some of it.
It is one of the trade offs of the cut.
 
Date: 12/14/2005 6:01:41 PM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 12/14/2005 5:54:26 PM
Author: lmurden
I saw a 1.2 carat asscher 2 weeks ago on a knottie and was really impressed by its beauty. It was so crisp it almost didn''t look real, but it barley looked like a carat. Why?

asschers run on the deep side so they are a little smaller per ct than some other styles but they also cost slightly less per ct to make up for some of it.
It is one of the trade offs of the cut.
Thanks for the quick answer.
I guess if I had to get an asscher it would be 2 carats to get the size that I want.
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