ASET For Royal Asscher: Answered

[OoohShiny]

If we ever cut a 10ct we would consider going with an even smaller table in the low 20% range.

What's that I hear you say?

MMD?







That would be spectacular!

Not sure it could be a ring, though - wouldn't it be massively deep and stick up really far from the finger?!

 

[Karl_K]

What's that I hear you say?

MMD?

available mmd rough isnt big enough for 10ct.
Maybe someday.
Even in mmd it would be masively expensive.
When im at .my computer i will model it and post the ch in mm at 10ct

 

[OoohShiny]

available mmd rough isnt big enough for 10ct.
Maybe someday.
Even in mmd it would be masively expensive.

Booooooooo

When im at .my computer i will model it and post the ch in mm at 10ct

Yay!


(Thank you!)

 

[Karl_K]

10ct is 12x12mm so at 25% ch with the 34% table.
3mm crown height.

At 20% table could be 30% CH and depth would be over 82+ and would have to change pavilion a bit.
Roughly 11.92x11.92
3.576mm crown height.
These numbers would change a bit as its optimized for our performance levels which is a several hours to days job. Its close enough for now

We could do a 20% table with the same 25% ch as the 34% table. ~3mm and to much work to model right now.

Looking it over I would likely go for the current design even at 10ct but who can say. :}

 

[Dr_Diesel]

Top secret :}
Not really, it happened on PS.
I organically planned on a 40% table but when actually cutting it vs virtual it came out around 34.
I learned from it and can get it better now in virtual.
We thought about opening it up to 40% but a bunch of people loved it as is with the prototype so we went with it.
I believe one has been cut closer to 40% due to some rough material issues. It has the Octavia look and performance just a slightly bigger center section.
It's within my accepted range.
Under roughtly the low 30%s the center becomes to small at 1ct to stand out as 10 miles deep.
If we ever cut a 10ct we would consider going with an even smaller table in the low 20% range.

We treat them as art in how they are made, they are not cookie cutter like if we were making h&a rounds.
They are hand tuned by eye for the brands performance and look.

Thank you Karl!

 

[OoohShiny]

10ct is 12x12mm so at 25% ch with the 34% table.
3mm crown height.

At 20% table could be 30% CH and depth would be over 82+ and would have to change pavilion a bit.
Roughly 11.92x11.92
3.576mm crown height.
These numbers would change a bit as its optimized for our performance levels which is a several hours to days job. Its close enough for now

We could do a 20% table with the same 25% ch as the 34% table. ~3mm and to much work to model right now.

Looking it over I would likely go for the current design even at 10ct but who can say. :}

12mm deep!!

That is quite a rock

 

[Karl_K]

12mm deep!!

That is quite a rock

l x w 12x12 not depth. sorry for being confusing.

Crown height % for fancies = (average crown height ÷ Smaller of the L or W measurement) x 100

 

[OoohShiny]

l x w 12x12 not depth. sorry for being confusing.

Ahhhh, right - so 82% depth of 12mm?

That's still pretty deep

 

[Karl_K]

Ahhhh, right - so 82% depth of 12mm?

That's still pretty deep

.82 x 11.92 for the 20% table 82%TD 30% crown version.
So
11.91x11.91x9.77mm

For the 34%T 25%ch 75%TD
.75x12 = 9
12mm x 12mm x 9mm

 

[Dr_Diesel]

Here’s another thought for ring design. Any thoughts? Also a tension setting...

This one is more centered and about 2/3 of the face is flat.

Here are 2 different versions:

 

[OoohShiny]

Here’s another thought for ring design. Any thoughts? Also a tension setting...

This one is more centered and about 2/3 of the face is flat.

Here are 2 different versions:

That looks not dissimilar to @kenny's tension setting - nice and open on all sides!

 

[Dr_Diesel]

That looks not dissimilar to @kenny's tension setting - nice and open on all sides!

Yes!

That’s what I’m basing the channel design on!

I actually contemplated that setting but find myself wanting something with harder, more “architectural” lines to accent the lines of the stone.

I think the Octavia already has hard lines and can work well in a “softer” setting. The RA however seems to have a somewhat softer feel in person, so want to give the setting hard edges.

 

[OoohShiny]

Yes!

That’s what I’m basing the channel design on!

I actually contemplated that setting but find myself wanting something with harder, more “architectural” lines to accent the lines of the stone.

I think the Octavia already has hard lines and can work well in a “softer” setting. The RA however seems to have a somewhat softer feel in person, so want to give the setting hard edges.

Are you going with Bruce Boone (who made kenny's)?

If you've not already made contact, I think he would be open to creating something special / unique

 

[Dr_Diesel]

Are you going with Bruce Boone (who made kenny's)?

If you've not already made contact, I think he would be open to creating something special / unique

Thank you for suggesting this!

It was Kenny’s ring that inspired these recent designs, so Bruce was the first person I reached out to.

It’s an option, but I‘ve always worn platinum and like the weight of it (not that I really want to pay for platinum).

It’s hard to imagine what a titanium ring might feel like.

Will I forget it’s even there...or worse, not notice it’s gone should I take it off .The ring I wear now weighs 23g, so I’m pretty aware of it when it’s not on my finger.

@kenny ...I know I’m being neurotic about this.

Can you help restore my sanity???

What’s it like wearing a titanium ring? Do you like it? Do you prefer it over heavier rings?

 

[kenny]

I first wore a platinum Gelin Abaci tension setting.
It was very heavy.

Then I wore a titanium, lighter but my SO's titanium turned darker over the years.
Now I wear cobalt chrome and I prefer how bright it is and stays.

No, I never forgot it was on because of the light weight.
I consider the metal's weight is just personal preference.
With gold or platinum there's less money left over for the diamond.

Some people think a real diamond "deserves" to be set in a precious metal.
I don't think that way.

 

[lovedogs]

I have a tension set from Bruce and love it! I appreciate that it's not heavy, and am thrilled with it

 

[Dr_Diesel]

I first wore a platinum Gelin Abaci tension setting.
It was very heavy.

Then I wore a titanium, lighter but my SO's titanium turned darker over the years.
Now I wear cobalt chrome and I prefer how bright it is and stays.

No, I never forgot it was on because of the light weight.
I consider the metal's weight is just personal preference.
With gold or platinum there's less money left over for the diamond.

Some people think a real diamond "deserves" to be set in a precious metal.
I don't think that way.

Thank you for the perspective Kenny!

And thank you for the tip about titanium vs. cobalt chrome. Bruce initially advised against it as titanium is more “springy” but I didn’t quite understand his reasoning. I’ll ask again.

And, I wholeheartedly agree. I have no issue spending $$$ on a nice rock but the high price of precious metals and metalwork has always made me wince.

I know someone who just paid over $3k for a designer ring that, if sold for scrap, may net about $30.

You’ve definitely made me think twice about precious metals! ...and, truth be told, I don’t know if I’d be willing to suffer the price tag on a custom-made platinum ring that would be worth pennies if I ever decided to sell or change the setting.

 

[OoohShiny]

You’ve definitely made me think twice about precious metals! ...and, truth be told, I don’t know if I’d be willing to suffer the price tag on a custom-made platinum ring that would be worth pennies if I ever decided to sell or change the setting.

Don't forget you might also change shape and weight substantially as you get older! and tension settings can't be resized...


That said, I also like the weight of heavier things because of the 'surely I'd notice if I lost it' mindset!

Hopefully you can find a workaround

Even if you go with a BB ring now, it will be a lot less $ to 'scrap' if you want to go heavier and PT later!

 

[Dr_Diesel]

Here are a few snapshots of an aluminum model of the ring I’m working on with Bruce Boone.

Thoughts on this design? Do you prefer it in the all metallic finish or with the black?

ter?

 

[Dr_Diesel]

Right now the flat face of the ring is centered and the stone is offset. Thinking about offsetting the face a little bit as well. Here’s a photo of the current design and a CAD drawing with the change:

 

[gregchang35]

I like both options of white and white and black. It all depends on what your style is.

I think the black band in the middle gives it a little more pop to the ring.

I am not sure about off setting the table like how you have done it. It think that would lead to the ring spinning a little, due to the shift in the weight of the table - more to that skewed side.

How about make the table the actual width of the widest circumference on the ring, and then offset the stone.

I am terrible with editing.... but here is my attempt at drawing what I mean.

more you could make it softer with the table slightly wider than current style but not as wide as the widest circumference.

 

[Dr_Diesel]

I like both options of white and white and black. It all depends on what your style is.

I think the black band in the middle gives it a little more pop to the ring.

I am not sure about off setting the table like how you have done it. It think that would lead to the ring spinning a little, due to the shift in the weight of the table - more to that skewed side.

How about make the table the actual width of the widest circumference on the ring, and then offset the stone.

I am terrible with editing.... but here is my attempt at drawing what I mean.

more you could make it softer with the table slightly wider than current style but not as wide as the widest circumference.

good thinking! I like your second option.

 

[OoohShiny]

I like both pictured options - the black does make the stone 'pop' more but will black always go with what you are wearing?

You could have the centre band frosted/matte and then the flat sections each side polished?

 

[mwilliamanderson]

Can’t wait to see the finished ring! I vote for the all silver version.

 

[Dr_Diesel]

I like both pictured options - the black does make the stone 'pop' more but will black always go with what you are wearing?

You could have the centre band frosted/matte and then the flat sections each side polished?

Is there anything that doesn’t go with black?

Good suggestion about the matte finish. I’ll kick it around with Bruce!

 

[gregchang35]

I like the satin/ brushed idea for that middle band ...

as for the black...it is a very distinct look.

what other rings do you have and what colour bands... what’s your style...

I am in a black phase at the moment and my vote would go with a black band. Otherwise I would have gone with the satin finish middle band.

 

[diamondhoarder]

I think that there would be too much going on if you had a black middle band. Plus I wouldn't be able to bring myself to mount an asscher over a black background.

I also vote for the frosted/ matte centre band.

 

[Dr_Diesel]

I think that there would be too much going on if you had a black middle band. Plus I wouldn't be able to bring myself to mount an asscher over a black background.

I also vote for the frosted/ matte centre band.

Haha! I hear you on the black background. It will be a tension setting however, so nothing behind the diamond except my finger. Bruce wasn't sure if or how we could accomplish the black background anyway. I'll see if he can do a matte finishing instead. Will keep you updated!

He will however be making another model keeping the centered ring face but making it 2mm larger (14.3 instead of 12.3mm). I looked into making it wider but, due to the depth of the stone, it would wind up being too bulky if we get much bigger.

Thank you @gregchang35 I'll post pics once it arrives.

 

[gregchang35]

I forget how you are setting the stone- in the middle or to one side?
Also which finger are you wearing it on?
It is all about your preference.

I have a few rings (and sets of rings) and each one has its flavour.

I now only wear rings on the “ring”finger, with the Occassion pinkie ring. All my solitaires are centred except one. My last solitaire was part of a set and it worked well. The solitaire was set off centre. The wedding band has bead set melee Diamonds off-set to the other side to “match” the solitaire.

if you are lucky enough with finger sizing that It is tchanging from hand to hand and Different fingers...I woudl choose a centred setting of the diamond. I think it gives it flexibility to change Which finger you wear it on.

however, if you know what you want, go for it.
For me off centre looks really great on the ring finger in either hand. But if you know you can tire of certain looks, then the centred position is better. Versatile for whichever finger and a very classic look.

doh- just read that you are getting another version made with the stone centred and slightly wider table.
Nice.

 

[purplesilk]

Certified Royal Asscher Cut Diamond 1.56ct F VS1 | Loupe Troop

loupetroop.com