B/G oval tourmaline set in WG semi mount

[Enerchi]

I love the colour of this stone! I was back and forth with Laura at Gemfix on a few stones and bought this is September. Had it set in an eBay semi mount (thought I loved the setting... now think it may need a different one....) and shortly after wearing it a few times, a diamond in the prong melee fell out.

Its a 2.87 ct tourmaline, portugese cut by Andrew Gulij.

My local jeweller had to set it higher than I wanted it set due to the way the melee was set in the prongs - any lower into the basket head and it ran the risk of "cutting" into the other stones. So, it is much higher than I'd like but I love the colour so I plod along!

Here are my macro shots of this setting. I don't even have any hand shots!!! ( ) I will make that today's task.

If you were to reset this stone (and no guarantees I will follow thru -- tend to talk about things but lack in compliance!) what would you recommend? I do prefer WG or RG over YG.

 

[Treenbean]

What a gorgeous color! It looks very lively.

 

[jstarfireb]

I love the delicate minty color! The setting is pretty, but the prongs are huge! Could they be shaved down a little? I'm not digging the round shape that they have when you look down at the stones. Claw prongs would be great if you can find a bench person skilled enough to do them.

 

[Enerchi]

I love the delicate minty color! The setting is pretty, but the prongs are huge! Could they be shaved down a little? I'm not digging the round shape that they have when you look down at the stones. Claw prongs would be great if you can find a bench person skilled enough to do them.

Oh, I hear ya on that one! I was not impressed with how he set the stone, but just walked out of there without saying anything. Since then, I've found another local jeweller (he set my RG/morganite ring) and I like his setting skills better.

I asked to have the stone set as low as possible but the explanation about the melee on the prongs made sense. Still... wish they had been tapered or cut down a bit more. Oh well....

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

Hand shot? I like it!

cheers--Sharon

 

[LD]

I like the overall look but the tourmaline is set way too high in that setting. No idea what your jeweller was talking about because this looks like a simple case of cutting the prongs to make them lower and sitting the tourmaline into the basket below (which is where it's designed to sit).

Melee has a habit of being de-stabilised, especially after a jeweller has been messing around with it! Always worth getting them to check it over after they've finished. It's a time consuming job and so it's something that some jewellers skip over.

 

[Enerchi]

Hand shots. Beautiful clear blue sky day - great temperature of -2C today

Yes, LD, I am quite unhappy with how high up it is set as well. His explanation was that if he cut a seat lower in the prongs (and the 4 prongs are not even in terms of where the melee ends...) he would risk popping out a diamond so that's why he went high. It made sense, but the overall look is NOT what I'd envisioned, unfortunately.

Can it be reset lower now that it has been cut into for this level?? I would go elsewhere but is it a possibility? I'd like to keep it in this setting but I'm nervous of losing more stones and how high the tourmaline is.

 

[JewelFreak]

What a nice stone, love the color! I agree, it's too high in the setting, obviously meant to sit right down in the basket. Not being a jeweler, I don't know if it can be re-done, but it seems possible to me. In answer to your other question, that tourm would be stunning in rg.

--- Laurie

 

[LD]

Hand shots. Beautiful clear blue sky day - great temperature of -2C today

Yes, LD, I am quite unhappy with how high up it is set as well. His explanation was that if he cut a seat lower in the prongs (and the 4 prongs are not even in terms of where the melee ends...) he would risk popping out a diamond so that's why he went high. It made sense, but the overall look is NOT what I'd envisioned, unfortunately.

Can it be reset lower now that it has been cut into for this level?? I would go elsewhere but is it a possibility? I'd like to keep it in this setting but I'm nervous of losing more stones and how high the tourmaline is.

Can you take a photo of this because it's not evident in the photos. Do you mean the melee that you've photographed above sticks out into the centre where the tourmaline is i.e. the culet of the melee? It shouldn't and the metalwork looks quite thick so I'd be suprised. If it does the basket needs adjusting. The prongs in these type of settings typically come with a ridge that holds the centre gem. It doesn't necessarily mean it's in the right place for your gem and I wonder if the jeweller is just being lazy?

Can it be reset lower? Yes, it's not designed to sit a gem this high.

 

[Enerchi]

Hopefully these are the shots you mean, LD

 

[LD]

Hi Enerchi - no, they're not the shots but actually this shows me what I need to see.

I've taken the liberty of copying your photo. You can clearly see where the prongs have notches that the gem sits in. All of these Chinese settings come with high prongs and the notches in proportion to high prongs. They're not right for most gems and usually jewellers will make small amendments such as shortening the prongs and putting new notches in lower down. Your jeweller hasn't done this.

He said that if he lowered the gem it would intefere with the melee. It might but I'm not convinced. He's worried about the top melee on each prong I think. Once he lowers the prongs and puts a groove on the inside he's working very closely to the melee. With cast settings the diamonds are set with the setting when cast so if you much around it can loosen - however, it's not impossible it's just that it may take a bit more care and time.

Looking at these photos I'd say that your jeweller really hasn't done a good job but has taken the easiest route. However, that's from the photos and others may be able to see something I haven't.

 

[Enerchi]

Hi Enerchi - no, they're not the shots but actually this shows me what I need to see.

I've taken the liberty of copying your photo. You can clearly see where the prongs have notches that the gem sits in. All of these Chinese settings come with high prongs and the notches in proportion to high prongs. They're not right for most gems and usually jewellers will make small amendments such as shortening the prongs and putting new notches in lower down. Your jeweller hasn't done this.

He said that if he lowered the gem it would intefere with the melee. You can clearly see that's rubbish in this photo because the basket with the melee is fairly thick and you can't see the back of the diamonds - so if you tourmaline drops down into that basket it won't interfere with the melee because the melee is on the front and you can't see them on the inside. That means that the tourmaline will drop down into the basket and rest on the top edge of the metal holding the melee. Does that make sense?

Looking at these photos I'd say that your jeweller really hasn't done a good job but has taken the easiest route. However, that's from the photos and others may be able to see something I haven't.

WOW! You are GIFTED on the computer - great skills!!

I completely agree with you. I think I'll take it to the new jeweller I used for the RG / morganite pear in halo setting, and see what he says about adjusting this one. It looks odd when I wear it and there is definitely something nagging at me when I look at it, but I *want* to love it but it's just not happening yet! Wonder what would happen if he did set it lower? what happens with the diamonds on the prongs? I would also ask to have him try and taper the prongs as well - those big clunky round BLOBS of prongs are just not doing it for me

I've already lost one diamond on a prong, and I guess it can be replaced, but this new jeweller said he'd charge around $200 to check the whole ring. I wonder if I had him reset this stone lower, he may be more willing to check/adjust the melee while he's got it.... hmmm....

 

[Enerchi]

LD - went to the new jeweller (and then a second one I popped into in the same vicinity) and this can not be set lower in this setting due to the diamond melee on the prongs. They could shape the prongs to be more delicate, but its not going any deeper. It could have originally been set approx 2 mm deeper but that's the max.

Looked at potentially replacing the melee head with another head - can't be done, according to both shops. I could get a whole new setting for the stone, but I have to look for a deeper setting...

Oh well, I've investigated it, I can live with it (don't like the height, but I can live with it...) and as for the prongs being shaped, I may have that done later, but low on my priority list at the moment.

So - my lesson learned - maybe eBay stock settings aren't the best option for me on a next go around! "Live and learn"