CAD feedback: which sidestone size?

[petit_bijou]

Hi Rocky Talky,

Wondering if I can draw on your wisdom to get some input on DK CADs for my reset project...

It's a fairly subtle difference between 4mm and 4.5mm side stones for a cushion/round 3-stone setting. The center stone is about 8.3 x 7.7, but I've asked for the basket to "overhang" a little bit so that milgrain is visible from the top without needing a bezel. Part of the objective in going for the slightly larger stones is to help their "roundness" stand out and be less likely to look like traps based on the prong arrangement. Are there any other changes I could make to help with that?

I'm also wondering if I should ask for the baskets to narrow towards the bottom with slightly smaller donuts, or if that will mess up the profile view? Any other suggestions or areas of concern in the CAD? This is my first custom setting...

Thank you! <3

4mm version:



4.5mm version:

 

[Linny]

I love the 4.5 proportions. This is going to be a gorgeous ring! The ring size will be a 4.5 right?

 

[tyty333]

I prefer the smaller stones. Have you considered doing 3 prongs on the side stones instead of 4? The 2 prongs on the side nearest the
shank would go away and the single prong would be where the cathedral part of the shank comes up. That would keep the rounds from
looking like traps (I don't think they would look like traps anyway). Yes, you can bring the base of the baskets in. Talk to Amy and see what
she says.

 

[dk168]

I too prefer the smaller stones.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK

 

[petit_bijou]

Thank you @Linny, @tyty333 and @dk168 for weighing in!

Yes, the ring size is 4.5, and I'll see how it looks with the baskets brought in a bit.

I did think about 3 prongs - I might ask if I can see a version like that in CAD, but I tend to prefer the 3 pronged side-stones with a 6-prong center. Since the center stone will have double prongs in a 4-prong arrangement, I thought it might work better to keep the side stones along the same lines.

I think part of what's throwing me off is the prongs standing straight up are making it tough to imagine the finished ring and how the prongs will look... might have to do some playing in powerpoint to see if I can "hide" the tips for imagination purposes.

 

[josieKat]

I don't know if you are going for a different prong shape than mine, but here is a not completely dissimilar 3 stone with pulled in outer prongs on the side stones plus double prongs on the center

 

[petit_bijou]

Oooooh @josieKat your ring is stunning!!! That is so helpful - thank you.

Do you have any photos of the profile by chance? I would also be super grateful if you could share the dimensions of your stones and ring size so I can get a sense of the proportions.

 

[Niel]

What are you re-setting?? Your spinel?

 

[Niel]

And you’ve decided to be able to see the metal basket in the center stone like that? What is the benefit there?

 

[petit_bijou]

Hi @Niel, yes I'm re-setting my lavender spinel.

I was drawn to the option to see milgrain from the top as an alternative to a bezel to give it a bit of a protective "buffer" when I was thinking of resetting as a solitaire - I always felt that my current setting was too high and too exposed for my comfort. That design element stuck when I changed my mind to considering a 3-stone, but I never fully reconsidered whether it translates well to a 3-stone. Do you think it will look weird with the side stones?


Here are some of my inspiration images:

 

[Niel]

I think it’s odd to do it on one stone and not all of them.
it wouldn’t be my personal preference but it’s not my ring. I just think if you’re going to do it why not all of them? I assume from the cad the head will be a different color from the shank metal, so already it’s looking very separate

as for side stones - there are “proportions” people say to follow for three stones but I feel when it’s a colored stone those are out the window. Just get as big of diamond sides as you can afford. The 4.5 look great. 5.5 would look great too lol.

 

[Niel]

Another way to protect the stone and draw attention from the roundness of the sides would be to do 6 prongs on the center and 3 on the sides (two closest to the stone keep them the same as they are and then the outer prongs change them from two to one that’s in the center of the shank)

 

[petit_bijou]

I think it’s odd to do it on one stone and not all of them.
it wouldn’t be my personal preference but it’s not my ring. I just think if you’re going to do it why not all of them? I assume from the cad the head will be a different color from the shank metal, so already it’s looking very separate

as for side stones - there are “proportions” people say to follow for three stones but I feel when it’s a colored stone those are out the window. Just get as big of diamond sides as you can afford. The 4.5 look great. 5.5 would look great too lol.

That's fair, I'll have to think about this more. I had thought about bezeling the side stones to protect and add "visual weight" (like the ring pictured here, minus the oxidization), but didn't want to have too many variables in play since there are already a few.



The center is potentially going to be rose gold to "blend" more with the spinel (I find one thing I dislike about my current setting is that the prongs make it look so "square", so I thought the milgrain effect and metal color would help accentuate the pillowy outline. Once DK receives my stone I'll ask for photos next to rose and white to make my final decision.

Another way to protect the stone and draw attention from the roundness of the sides would be to do 6 prongs on the center and 3 on the sides (two closest to the stone keep them the same as they are and then the outer prongs change them from two to one that’s in the center of the shank)

I like the 3-6-3 prong arrangement on three stones that are all round, but even though I want to highlight the pillowy-ness, I want it to still look like a cushion. Do you think 6 prongs would round it out too much?



Thanks for these points though - as much as I sometimes feel like I'm totally back to the drawing board, I want to get it right! Much easier to get feedback and bound ideas around a CAD than a finished ring

 

[Niel]

I love to talk cads. I know I have many opinions but you of course can ignore them all! Haha

Iwas also thinking of that spinel ring and considered it but I think you’re right- that’s a lot going on- and you don’t want to guild the lily.
there is a bezeled side stone three stone Leon mege made a few years back where the center was acushion (if I remember right) and he bezeled the side stones (rounds) in a cushiony shape which helped - I’ll see if I can find a photo.
The reason I like the 3/6/3 is because I personally like when the prongs are in sets. Like 2/4/2 or 3/6/3 or 4/8/4 I think it gives balance to the look and I think if you don’t want the rounds to look like rounds- doing an uneven number of prongs will help. You could do 3 side stones and 4 center- but I do not think doing 6 on the center would make it look too round. You could make the prongs intentionally placed to elongate the stone. Example- leave the 4 cornered pronged and then just add a center prong north and south.

 

[Niel]

I wouldn’t do a butterfly setting but like the prong placement here

#TBT - 2.5ct blue sapphire, 1.2ctw diamond sides in WF Butterflies

My dream ring is here! I absolutely love it! Stats and pics first: 2.55 ct round blue sapphire from Master Cut Gems. The stone is 8.22 x 8.12 x 5.13mm deep. The sides are my former studs: .615ct, 5.45mm, AGS Ideal cut, HVS1 and .61ct, 5.48mm, AGS Ideal cut, GVS1. It is set by Whiteflash in a...

www.pricescope.com

 

[Niel]

Here’s the Leon mege I was thinking of

 

[Niel]

Another 3/6/3 I think would be flattering for the center

 

[petit_bijou]

Here’s the Leon mege I was thinking of

Ooohhh... this is pretty! I think I do want to emphasize the "round"ness of the side stones, since I like the round/cushion combo, but it it does give an idea of if I were to essentially flip the stone shapes in this ring.

Now with the 6 prong ideas I feel like I could scrap the idea of the overhanging milgrain. While it's a feature I like, your question was the first prompt I had to re-think whether it still works with side stones, and I don't think I really want to add that detail to all 3.

How do we feel about this (except with round sidestones)?

 

[josieKat]

Oooooh @josieKat your ring is stunning!!! That is so helpful - thank you.

Do you have any photos of the profile by chance? I would also be super grateful if you could share the dimensions of your stones and ring size so I can get a sense of the proportions.

Thanks! Here are a couple more pictures - my profile doesn't have your slight cathedral. Sorry I don't have a straight on one on my finger - hard to get that angle!


The center is a 1.35 F VVS2 AVC (6.81x6.22 - ish! My memory has faded!) flanked by G/H VS1 AVR 20 pointers (I don't know the dimensions on those).

 

[josieKat]

Oh and my ring size is a 5.75.

 

[Niel]

Ooohhh... this is pretty! I think I do want to emphasize the "round"ness of the side stones, since I like the round/cushion combo, but it it does give an idea of if I were to essentially flip the stone shapes in this ring.

Now with the 6 prong ideas I feel like I could scrap the idea of the overhanging milgrain. While it's a feature I like, your question was the first prompt I had to re-think whether it still works with side stones, and I don't think I really want to add that detail to all 3.

How do we feel about this (except with round sidestones)?

I think that’s lovely.

 

[Niel]

Also I am sorry I read your comments like 4 times and still read them as though you WANTED them to be traps - but I see you want them to be rounds.
I am an idiot.

 

[petit_bijou]

Thanks! Here are a couple more pictures - my profile doesn't have your slight cathedral. Sorry I don't have a straight on one on my finger - hard to get that angle!


The center is a 1.35 F VVS2 AVC (6.81x6.22 - ish! My memory has faded!) flanked by G/H VS1 AVR 20 pointers (I don't know the dimensions on those).

Thank you so much! So super helpful to see how the CADs translated into your actual ring too.

I think that’s lovely.

Hmm.. I will see what my husband thinks... the nice thing about this is it keeps the "v" profile of the gallery reminiscent with my current setting while still offering more security and protection, rather than switching the style completely to baskets.

Also I am sorry I read your comments like 4 times and still read them as though you WANTED them to be traps - but I see you want them to be rounds.
I am an idiot.

LOL! No need to apologize - hard to keep track between wanting rounds to not look like traps and cushions not looking like rounds. Super appreciate you talking through these ideas!

 

[petit_bijou]

Here's a thread with the setting that's now also in the running (I would execute with rose gold center prongs and round sides)

My re-set! 4.9 cttw 3-stone antique cushion ring, by Mark T and CVB

Hey, PSers! :geek2: This thread is a bit overdue since I've had this ring for almost 2 months now. Sorry for going overboard on the pictures/videos but I'm just thrilled with this re-set! :kiss2: BACKSTORY: Since 2016 or 2017 I'd been feeling the urge to re-set my halo'd old mine cushion into...

www.pricescope.com

 

[Niel]

What color would the shank be?
I get the sentimentality of wanting it to look similar to the original but i do not think in the long run I don’t think it’ll feel any less like your e ring- especially with the same center

 

[Niel]

 

[petit_bijou]

What color would the shank be?
I get the sentimentality of wanting it to look similar to the original but i do not think in the long run I don’t think it’ll feel any less like your e ring- especially with the same center

I think the shank would be white - the main purpose behind setting the spinel in rose (or at least seeing how it would look, since it may not work "in reality") would be to blend into the stone better, kind of like the goal behind setting a diamond in white metal even on a YG shank.

This is lovely!!! You're so good at finding these examples!

 

[Niel]

I think the shank would be white - the main purpose behind setting the spinel in rose (or at least seeing how it would look, since it may not work "in reality") would be to blend into the stone better, kind of like the goal behind setting a diamond in white metal even on a YG shank.



This is lovely!!! You're so good at finding these examples!

Yeah if the shank is white that’s enough like your original e ring with the same center stone I don’t think you really need* to keep any more design elements - but of course I’m not as sentimental as some.

I think there’s a lot to consider when setting the center stone in a different metal. Sure, which will “blend” best, but also - what metal will flatter the color of the stone best? Really that’s another reason you see diamonds set in white with gold shanks-people think the yellow metal will not flatter the stone as much as white. Same with seeing emeralds in gold right?
I also think you have to like the contrast in metal color vs the rest of the shank. I’ve ended up doing both- I have a sapphire ring that maybe the sapphire would have looked better in yellow metal but I didn’t want blue and white and yellow - I felt it became too busy- so I left it all white.
I had a chrysoberyl ring where the yellow gold was close enough to the color of the chrysoberyl I felt it would be best to do two tone.

I’ll be interested to see what color looks best with your stone when DK gets it

 

[petit_bijou]

Yeah if the shank is white that’s enough like your original e ring with the same center stone I don’t think you really need* to keep any more design elements - but of course I’m not as sentimental as some.

I think there’s a lot to consider when setting the center stone in a different metal. Sure, which will “blend” best, but also - what metal will flatter the color of the stone best? Really that’s another reason you see diamonds set in white with gold shanks-people think the yellow metal will not flatter the stone as much as white. Same with seeing emeralds in gold right?
I also think you have to like the contrast in metal color vs the rest of the shank. I’ve ended up doing both- I have a sapphire ring that maybe the sapphire would have looked better in yellow metal but I didn’t want blue and white and yellow - I felt it became too busy- so I left it all white.
I had a chrysoberyl ring where the yellow gold was close enough to the color of the chrysoberyl I felt it would be best to do two tone.

I’ll be interested to see what color looks best with your stone when DK gets it

It's a fair point - I don't really want to make it look too pink, which is a risk, but I've seen a few CS regulars who have set lavender stones in rose gold and it's been lovely. I imagine having more refined prongs would also help minimize the effect I'm trying to "correct" relative to my existing setting.

 

[petit_bijou]

So... I decided to explore the 6-prong version, and I think I am enjoying seeing more of the stone. I'm still struggling to imagine what details matter in "real life" vs. CAD since I know it will be daintier in real life, and the prongs will also look quite a bit different once finished.

I'd love any feedback or thoughts on the matter of the donut height, and whether the prongs are too curvy/bowed in the side profile... do you think it would be better if they hugged the pavilion of the stone more?

This is the original version that was sent to me,




This version has slightly higher donuts to help "clear" the plain band, hypothetically reducing rubbing, and lifts the stones up a bit higher.



I can't tell which of these two versions I prefer, and if there's anything else I should pay attention to that might bug me in the end.

Thank you so much for your inputs! I am excited to feel like we're "close" and get the ball rolling on making it real!