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CAD help!

Wewechew

Ideal_Rock
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Apr 8, 2017
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:love:I’ve decided to reset my .9ct into a solitaire. I asked DK to send me the Tiffany replicas he has done and this is the one I picked out of them.
0A8806EF-42CB-419B-8332-264492E74EAB.jpeg
I told him I wanted it set a little lower and more “slopey” like @msop04

49981C4F-D98B-41EC-8891-9F050A481298.jpeg

First draft he came back with this:

C439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC.jpeg

To me it looked a bit too squaty. So second version was this:

ADC0B481-B2BD-4EF6-AA39-DEC6C8A2E68E.jpeg

I know my stone is significantly smaller than both the original cad and the inspiration one, so maybe my expectations are unrealistic? Any suggestions or advice???
 
:love:I’ve decided to reset my .9ct into a solitaire. I asked DK to send me the Tiffany replicas he has done and this is the one I picked out of them.
0A8806EF-42CB-419B-8332-264492E74EAB.jpeg
I told him I wanted it set a little lower and more “slopey” like @msop04

49981C4F-D98B-41EC-8891-9F050A481298.jpeg

First draft he came back with this:

C439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC.jpeg

To me it looked a bit too squaty. So second version was this:

ADC0B481-B2BD-4EF6-AA39-DEC6C8A2E68E.jpeg

I know my stone is significantly smaller than both the original cad and the inspiration one, so maybe my expectations are unrealistic? Any suggestions or advice???

Hi, @Wewechew! I would have him set your stone a little higher. The reason my prongs have that "cuppy/swoopy" aesthetic has a lot to do with setting it lower for its size. Also, if you have DK taper the shank to pinch in at the basket, it will lead the eye up to the stone and make it appear larger.

ETA: I'd set it high enough so that the culet is visible from the basket.
 
Hi, @Wewechew! I would have him set your stone a little higher. The reason my prongs have that "cuppy/swoopy" aesthetic has a lot to do with setting it lower for its size. Also, if you have DK taper the shank to pinch in at the basket, it will lead the eye up to the stone and make it appear larger.

ETA: I'd set it high enough so that the culet is visible from the basket.
I agree with having him set it a bit higher.

Are you talking about punching in right here right before swooping up to the basket?
6C96B4BA-31C5-4B7C-B9DD-7329390F4902.jpeg
 
I agree with having him set it a bit higher.

Are you talking about punching in right here right before swooping up to the basket?
6C96B4BA-31C5-4B7C-B9DD-7329390F4902.jpeg

Yes, the band would get thinner (and in my case, the knife edge sharper) before connecting to the basked. Since it's a knife edge, it will still be very strong bc of the height. It's just perceived as super thin from a bird's eye view. ;)
 
Yes, the band would get thinner (and in my case, the knife edge sharper) before connecting to the basked. Since it's a knife edge, it will still be very strong bc of the height. It's just perceived as super thin from a bird's eye view. ;-)
Thank you!
 
So with @msop04's ring, you have multiple tapers going on. The Tifanny replica CAD sample he sent you has it, but neither of DK's actual custom CAD's to you have it. See below. I am not sure if these dimensions work for your specific ring, but I think they will be close.

If not, just had DK adjust to what does work. But you want it thin at the top and getting fat at the bottom so it draw your eye to the diamond.

InkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_LI.jpg

There is a secondary taper going on in this other view. See my red marks below. DK picked up this taper in his 1st CAD to you. He used 2.0 & 1.8mm. The 2nd CAD he killed this second taper as you can see 1.80mm is used on both dimensions. The inspiro ring had 1.8 and 1.6m. If DK is okay thinning out to 1.6mm and @msop04 has no negative feedback about that, then I'd try to do the same as I have marked up.

Next there is a slight swoop where the ring comes up to meet the diamond. I tried to highlight and draw in the light blue color. Look at the inspiro ring and you will see what I mean. DK needs to add this IMO.

This next change could be his CAD playing tricks on me. But to me the head in his 1st CAD revision seems more refined and elegant like the inspiration piece. If you look in the low points of the basket it hits a slight V similar to the inspiration as well. The 2nd CAD looks like more hard modern lines and looks more curved at the low point instead of having that V.

Next, the basket on the inspiration piece looks wider than yours. I know your diamond is smaller, but proportionally it still looks out of whack to me. I'd ask DK if they can stretch it any. Maybe not.

Lastly, the donut on the inspiration ring looks more pronounced than on the DK piece. Again, could be related to the diamond size, but I think he has some control in that element to make it more obvious.

InkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_L2.jpg

Hopefully all that makes sense. :cool2:
 
So with @msop04's ring, you have multiple tapers going on. The Tifanny replica CAD sample he sent you has it, but neither of DK's actual custom CAD's to you have it. See below. I am not sure if these dimensions work for your specific ring, but I think they will be close.

If not, just had DK adjust to what does work. But you want it thin at the top and getting fat at the bottom so it draw your eye to the diamond.

InkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_LI.jpg

There is a secondary taper going on in this other view. See my red marks below. DK picked up this taper in his 1st CAD to you. He used 2.0 & 1.8mm. The 2nd CAD he killed this second taper as you can see 1.80mm is used on both dimensions. The inspiro ring had 1.8 and 1.6m. If DK is okay thinning out to 1.6mm and @msop04 has no negative feedback about that, then I'd try to do the same as I have marked up.

Next there is a slight swoop where the ring comes up to meet the diamond. I tried to highlight and draw in the light blue color. Look at the inspiro ring and you will see what I mean. DK needs to add this IMO.

This next change could be his CAD playing tricks on me. But to me the head in his 1st CAD revision seems more refined and elegant like the inspiration piece. If you look in the low points of the basket it hits a slight V similar to the inspiration as well. The 2nd CAD looks like more hard modern lines and looks more curved at the low point instead of having that V.

Next, the basket on the inspiration piece looks wider than yours. I know your diamond is smaller, but proportionally it still looks out of whack to me. I'd ask DK if they can stretch it any. Maybe not.

Lastly, the donut on the inspiration ring looks more pronounced than on the DK piece. Again, could be related to the diamond size, but I think he has some control in that element to make it more obvious.

InkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_L2.jpg

Hopefully all that makes sense. :cool2:
That does make sense! Thank you!
 
So with @msop04's ring, you have multiple tapers going on. The Tifanny replica CAD sample he sent you has it, but neither of DK's actual custom CAD's to you have it. See below. I am not sure if these dimensions work for your specific ring, but I think they will be close.

If not, just had DK adjust to what does work. But you want it thin at the top and getting fat at the bottom so it draw your eye to the diamond.

InkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_LI.jpg

There is a secondary taper going on in this other view. See my red marks below. DK picked up this taper in his 1st CAD to you. He used 2.0 & 1.8mm. The 2nd CAD he killed this second taper as you can see 1.80mm is used on both dimensions. The inspiro ring had 1.8 and 1.6m. If DK is okay thinning out to 1.6mm and @msop04 has no negative feedback about that, then I'd try to do the same as I have marked up.

Next there is a slight swoop where the ring comes up to meet the diamond. I tried to highlight and draw in the light blue color. Look at the inspiro ring and you will see what I mean. DK needs to add this IMO.

This next change could be his CAD playing tricks on me. But to me the head in his 1st CAD revision seems more refined and elegant like the inspiration piece. If you look in the low points of the basket it hits a slight V similar to the inspiration as well. The 2nd CAD looks like more hard modern lines and looks more curved at the low point instead of having that V.

Next, the basket on the inspiration piece looks wider than yours. I know your diamond is smaller, but proportionally it still looks out of whack to me. I'd ask DK if they can stretch it any. Maybe not.

Lastly, the donut on the inspiration ring looks more pronounced than on the DK piece. Again, could be related to the diamond size, but I think he has some control in that element to make it more obvious.

InkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_L2.jpg

Hopefully all that makes sense. :cool2:
You are so good at this! Very sharp eye
 
You are so good at this! Very sharp eye

Thank you!

By the way, I mentioned I thought the donut was bigger on the inspiro ring. Good thing it wasn't a snake it would have bit me! LOL, check out the yellow marks.

InkedInkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_LI.jpg
 
Thank you!

By the way, I mentioned I thought the donut was bigger on the inspiro ring. Good thing it wasn't a snake it would have bit me! LOL, check out the yellow marks.

InkedInkedC439293E-EB27-4DDC-A568-F7E221A4BABC_LI.jpg
Oh... good catch! I didn’t notice that either
 

@Wewechew
I also wanted to add that I'd keep the shank thinner like in DK's original CADs and not change them to be thicker... this will keep it more proportional to the stone's size. However, I would have him make the top part tapered more (in yellow), if that's what you're going for.
 
@Wewechew
I also wanted to add that I'd keep the shank thinner like in DK's original CADs and not change them to be thicker... this will keep it more proportional to the stone's size. However, I would have him make the top part tapered more (in yellow), if that's what you're going for.
Yes, I'm going to keep it thinner due to the size of the diamond and also because my fingers aren't real long and I don't have tons of real-estate. Thinner rings tend to look best on me.

I'm still undecided on the taper at the top... I love the look of a taper at the top, but I think I may do that next time (because we know this won't be my last diamond solitaire). The actual Tiffany version doesn't have a taper from the top which I'm leaning towards right now (I know I'm all over the place with what I like about yours and what I want from the original Tiffany).
 
Let me rephrase that... I would keep the bottom around 1.7-1.8 mm like in DK's CAD, 2 mm at the very thickest. Remember, it will be sturdier due to the knife edge. Then, gradually taper in for 3/4 of the way up... then a more drastic taper for the upper 1/4 of the shank where it meets the basket.

So, where mine is 2.2 --> 2.0 --> 1.85, then sharp taper, yours might be
2.0 --> 1.7 --> 1.55 for example.
 
Let me rephrase that... I would keep the bottom around 1.7-1.8 mm like in DK's CAD, 2 mm at the very thickest. Remember, it will be sturdier due to the knife edge. Then, gradually taper in for 3/4 of the way up... then a more drastic taper for the upper 1/4 of the shank where it meets the basket.

So, where mine is 2.2 --> 2.0 --> 1.85, then sharp taper, yours might be
2.0 --> 1.7 --> 1.55 for example.
Oh got it!
 
Yes, I'm going to keep it thinner due to the size of the diamond and also because my fingers aren't real long and I don't have tons of real-estate. Thinner rings tend to look best on me.

I'm still undecided on the taper at the top... I love the look of a taper at the top, but I think I may do that next time (because we know this won't be my last diamond solitaire). The actual Tiffany version doesn't have a taper from the top which I'm leaning towards right now (I know I'm all over the place with what I like about yours and what I want from the original Tiffany).

I see what you mean... the T&Co. soli is a reverse taper, meaning it gets thicker as it approaches the shank... so just a different look. Just remember that the thicker the shank to the diamond, the smaller the stone will appear. ;)
 
Closest to T&Co version: notice the reverse taper on the shank seen in the bottom right CAD.
0a8806ef-42cb-419b-8332-264492e74eab-jpeg.641496
 
Closest to T&Co version: notice the reverse taper on the shank seen in the bottom right CAD.
0a8806ef-42cb-419b-8332-264492e74eab-jpeg.641496
Oh you're right! Ok I'm keeping notes for the next revision (I emailed him back revisions last night). Thank you so much for all your help!
 
Let me rephrase that... I would keep the bottom around 1.7-1.8 mm like in DK's CAD, 2 mm at the very thickest. Remember, it will be sturdier due to the knife edge. Then, gradually taper in for 3/4 of the way up... then a more drastic taper for the upper 1/4 of the shank where it meets the basket.

So, where mine is 2.2 --> 2.0 --> 1.85, then sharp taper, yours might be
2.0 --> 1.7 --> 1.55 for example.

Great point by @msop04. When I marked up things I used her dimensions but I do think they should be scaled down appropriately for your ring.

FYI, if you try to keep the proportions the difference is 0 --> 0.20 --> 0.15

So to duplicate proportionally, you'd want to run 2.0 --> 1.8 --> 1.65

To use the 2nd & 3rd dimensions you'd want to run 1.9 -->1.7 -->1.55

Make sense?

All this assuming 0.20mm doesn't throw off the proportions altogether. Sometimes when you're starting dimension gets smaller then keeping the same "difference" is too much and you have to also adjust the proportion dimensions accordingly.

Of course, 0.20mm is about 1/128th of an inch so I doubt it's an issue.
 
You're call but I think @msop04's is better.
I actually agree with you for a bigger diamond. If I decide to reset my 2.8ct I'd copy her ring exactly and go through Caysie. But I'm trying to do something slightly different for this ring while still incorporating parts of her ring for this one.
 
I actually agree with you for a bigger diamond. If I decide to reset my 2.8ct I'd copy her ring exactly and go through Caysie. But I'm trying to do something slightly different for this ring while still incorporating parts of her ring for this one.

Have you tried on an authentic Tiffany solitaire with the same size stone as yours? If so, did you like it? If you haven't tried one on, then I think that would be the first step.

ETA: I love the original Tiffany soli... I just thought it got a little heavy at the top with larger stones... it's just a different look than what I was going for. So, if you like that particular look, then I'd go with DK's first CAD that I posted. It will be lovely.
 
Have you tried on an authentic Tiffany solitaire with the same size stone as yours? If so, did you like it? If you haven't tried one on, then I think that would be the first step.
I have not. I tried on a stock solitaire a while back that, from the top, was the same as the Tiffany one (ie it was reverse tapered).
 
Also... the original T&Co soli has tabbed prongs, not claws... so that's another thing to consider. I think tabs work better for this style, but that's just MHO. ;)
 
Also... the original T&Co soli has tabbed prongs, not claws... so that's another thing to consider. I think tabs work better for this style, but that's just MHO. ;-)
I already have that request in ;-)
 
I have not. I tried on a stock solitaire a while back that, from the top, was the same as the Tiffany one (ie it was reverse tapered).

Are you close to a T&Co??
 
Are you close to a T&Co??
I am. I may have to stop in one on Sunday when I'm in Dallas. Do you think they will have one in my size though? I'm a size 7 and stores never seem to carry my size.
 
I am. I may have to stop in one on Sunday when I'm in Dallas. Do you think they will have one in my size though? I'm a size 7 and stores never seem to carry my size.

I don't know... most stores carry a 6 or a 6.5, but you can at least see the proportions to tell if you'd like that version or not. You could call and double check though.
 
After thinking about this, I think the reverse taper may be a really good choice for your stone. The added heft at the top may give it a little extra "oomph" on your finger. Also, I believe it would pop more if you paired it with the plain metal knife edge band and not something with stones.
 
After thinking about this, I think the reverse taper may be a really good choice for your stone. The added heft at the top may give it a little extra "oomph" on your finger. Also, I believe it would pop more if you paired it with the plain metal knife edge band and not something with stones.
I'm planning on them creating a matching band :) So now the question is- thicker or thinner than the ering?
 
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