Cluster ring or Halo ring, What's the difference?

[Big Fat Facets]

What's the difference between a Cluster ring vs. a Halo ring?? is it a matter of the size of the diamonds being used to surround the center/main stone??

To me,

examples of cluster rings

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examples of halo rings

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Ring | Victor Canera

www.victorcanera.com

 

[MamaBear]

Good question. I'd like to know, as well

 

[barbie86]

I always thought a cluster was made up of similar/same sized diamond, usually smaller, whereas a halo is a larger centre stone surround by one or two rings of noticeably smaller diamonds

 

[Big Fat Facets]

@MamaBear @barbie86

all this chat on the forum about halos and micro halos has got me thinking...

I realize i'm confused between what is considered a halo ring and a cluster ring.

the first few examples i have are from platt. They specifically call those rings clusters. they have the larger main center stone with smaller stones surrounding it.

The bottom example is a halo ring from blue nile. It shows a larger main center stone with smaller diamonds surrounding it, also

I looked it up on the internet and found nothing...

So hopefully, the knowledgable ones here will help us understand.

 

[dk168]

IMHO, it is down to the size of the centre stone compared with the diamonds surrounding it.

I do not believe there is a definitive size ratio before a diamond halo ring into a diamond cluster ring, however, I could be wrong.

Halos have bigger size differential between the centre stone and those that surround it, whereas clusters has less.

Halos tend to be single or doubles, and more than 2 becomes clusters.

All IMHO, and I am not in the trade or an expert.

DK

 

[Skyjems]

I am a gem dealer not a goldsmith, that said, I have designed and manufactured thousands and thousands of rings...

I would have called every one of those rings in the original post halos.

A cluster ring generally has several rows of gems around a centre gem that are all set side by side, usually they are pave set.

A halo/double halo/triple halo has rows of gems around the center gem, usually each row is 'stepped down' from the center.

 

[Skyjems]

A note, if you look up the Bulgari Trombino Ring, that's a good example of a cluster ring with a large center stone.

This is one of my favorite designs for cocktail rings of all time, so classy and RICH!

If you just look up 'cluster ring' you will find tons of examples of rings with relatively small centers which is what most people will think of when you say 'cluster ring'

 

[starbrite]

Sharing what I know:

“A halo normally refers to the stones around a center stone.

A cluster ring has a bunch of smaller stones clustered together rather than one center stone. A cluster ring is often a cluster of diamonds (or other gems), sometimes shaped together so that it resembles one gem.

A halo cluster would have a circle of stones around the clustered stones with no one center stone.”

However, some antique vendors may still call halos with larger (not pave) stones around an even larger center stone as a cluster ring.

This is a diamond cluster, “3 stone ring” that I use for travel. Each cluster of diamonds creates a pseudo “stone” in the 3 stone design.



Cluster rings can be found in all kinds of different designs. Even multi sizes and shaped stones together can form a cluster.

I’m little bit knowledgeable on this subject because I own quite a few different, colored, gemstone cluster rings. Got my first one as a very young teen & others followed.

 

[Queenie60]

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This is a true cluster! And the first two posted by OP are clusters. Halo rings have various cuts/size of center stone with small melee around the center. Cluster has a center stone with larger stones surrounding the stone. For instance, I am having a cluster made with a 1.45 carat OMC, surrounded by .20 or .25 (ten) stones. Still deciding and vendor is sourcing the cluster stones.

 

[Big Fat Facets]

I am a gem dealer not a goldsmith, that said, I have designed and manufactured thousands and thousands of rings...

I would have called every one of those rings in the original post halos.

A cluster ring generally has several rows of gems around a centre gem that are all set side by side, usually they are pave set.

A halo/double halo/triple halo has rows of gems around the center gem, usually each row is 'stepped down' from the center.

@Skyjems thanks for your insight!

so i looked up the trombino by bvlgari. I would not have called that type of a ring a cluster OR a halo.

To me, that'd a cocktail ring. and if i had to describe it to someone, i'd say it was,

"pave set round brilliants with a graduated channel set row of baguettes leading up to a center larger main stone..."

This is most fascinating...

The proprietor of platt jewelry calls those examples up top cluster rings.

Whereas the last example is a halo ring by victor canera.

Im wondering if a ring maker/builder would be able to shed even more light on this than you already have??

 

[Skyjems]

I've invited a friend who teaches at George Brown to chime in.

She noted to me that a cluster ring generally refers to a set of stones set closely together to appear to be one gem*(this is the most important part) and the center can be either larger or the same size or smaller, it's about the illusion that the ring gives of being a larger gem/gems set in the ring.

looked up the trombino by bvlgari. I would not have called that type of a ring a cluster OR a halo.

To me, that'd a cocktail ring. and if i

A ring can be both a cocktail ring and a halo or cluster, it can even be a solitaire (think big aquamarine cocktail rings)

 

[Big Fat Facets]

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This is a true cluster! And the first two posted by OP are clusters. Halo rings have various cuts/size of center stone with small melee around the center. Cluster has a center stone with larger stones surrounding the stone. For instance, I am having a cluster made with a 1.45 carat OMC, surrounded by .20 or .25 (ten) stones. Still deciding and vendor is sourcing the cluster stones.

Thanks for your help @Queenie60 !!

so your surround are sizable melee, unlike the modern day surround that i think of when i picture a halo ring.

But your 20 or 25 pointers is also called a halo around your 1.45 omc??

so perhaps halo just refers to the outter edging of diamonds around a center...

 

[Queenie60]

Thanks for your help @Queenie60 !!

so your surround are sizable melee, unlike the modern day surround that i think of when i picture a halo ring.

But your 20 or 25 pointers is also called a halo around your 1.45 omc??

so perhaps halo just refers to the outter edging of diamonds around a center...

I'm not sure what the correct term is for the surrounding stones. I refer to them as cluster stones - I'll ask a vendor and let you know. To me, a halo consists of smaller melee but then again, I am not a pro, just a consumer!

 

[Big Fat Facets]

I've invited a friend who teaches at George Brown to chime in.

She noted to me that a cluster ring generally refers to a set of stones set closely together to appear to be one gem*(this is the most important part) and the center can be either larger or the same size or smaller, it's about the illusion that the ring gives of being a larger gem/gems set in the ring.



A ring can be both a cocktail ring and a halo or cluster, it can even be a solitaire (think big aquamarine cocktail rings)

Thank you very very much @Skyjems for seeking out the opinion of your friend and teacher at George Brown College of Applied Arts!!!

Her insight is greatly appreciated!

I, also, asked a friend of mine who is known to have a curated collection of highly prized and artful creations. She's been an aficionado and connoisseur of fine jewelry for 15+ years, a special appreciation and fondness for hand forged rings of the finest old world quality. And even she can't be sure...

However, she did offer an interesting thought...
She's of the mind that "cluster" is an old world term used in antique jewelry. Such as victorian or edwardian era jewelry. Whereas "halo" is a modern term used for the type of diamond melee surround that are teeny tiny...

I thought that was rather apt.

In the vein of my friend's theory, im deducing that a cluster surround utilizes larger old mine cut, oec, single cut, rose cut etc... Whereas halo surround uses smaller full cut, single cut....??? (just thinking "outloud" on the keyboard)

thank you again for your attention to this.

 

[MollyMalone]

I'd say, based on my shopping experiences & discussions and "field trips" through the Diamond District with my late father-in-law, who was in the trade here in NYC and got a kick out of "tutoring" me, that there are several kinds of cluster rings:
* the ones depicted in the first 2 photos in Big Fat Facets' initial post or, e.g., here:

Help Finding A Vintage, Erstwhile or Made To Order Ring | Erstwhile Jewelry | NYC

Review our vast collection of vintage and antique rings to find what best fits your needs. We also offer rings made in-house by our professional jewelers, Erstwhile Collection. Made to Order collection offers custom made options.

erstwhilejewelry.com

I wouldn't call the compilation of stones around the center stone in those rings a "halo" because the surround is proportionately much wider than the halo that encircles an angel's head.

* the kind of ring where the center is comprised of multiple smaller stones -- often set with an eye to creating the illusion of one larger (and more expensive) stone, like this one, and what I think @SkyGems is thinking of:

1/2 CT. T.W. Diamond Cluster Ring in 14K White Gold|Zales Outlet

This 1/2 ct. t.w. diamond cluster ring is set in 14K white gold.

www.zalesoutlet.com

* a ring that is one or more clusters of stones, like my grandmother's cocktail ring

So here's what I'd call a halo'd cluster ring

Gregg Ruth Original Diamond Cluster Ring

Barsky Diamonds, on Jeweler’s Row, has been the top jewelry store in Philadelphia for over 100+ years! Shop a vast selection of engagement rings, wedding bands, loose diamonds, and all fine diamond and gemstone jewelry. Family owned and operated, legendary customer service.

barskydiamonds.com

Is there a particular kind of ring that's captured your fancy, @Big Fat Facets, so you're hoping to come up with a search phrase that will facilitate searches via, e.g., Google Images and PS?

 

[Big Fat Facets]

@MollyMalone

Thank you for your most valuable insight!!

YES, that makes much sense. There a SEVERAL types of cluster rings!!

i am very fond of the cluster rings from the victorian era, quite possibly edwardian as well.

I saw and handled a cluster ring last year that i haven't been able to get out of my mind. It's long been sold, though.

you see, recently on the forum there's been "chatter" about halos, double halos, triple halos and even quadruple halos. and i got to thinking how i favor the cluster ring but do not favor a halo ring.

Then through discourse with my friend regarding a project for a diamond that i've acquired, left me very confused as cluster and halo were used interchangeably...in our correspondence.

After looking it up and finding very little, i started/opened a thread (need more practice with that way too many repeat links) hoping to gain some knowledge and clarity.

thank you so very much!!!

 

[Austina]

To me a cluster is made up of stones of a similar size, or perhaps the centre stone being slightly larger than the others, like my pendant.

Whereas a halo is a large stone surrounded by smaller stones.



(BTW, I just love your little black kitty @Big Fat Facets)

 

[barbie86]

I've invited a friend who teaches at George Brown to chime in.

She noted to me that a cluster ring generally refers to a set of stones set closely together to appear to be one gem*(this is the most important part) and the center can be either larger or the same size or smaller, it's about the illusion that the ring gives of being a larger gem/gems set in the ring.



A ring can be both a cocktail ring and a halo or cluster, it can even be a solitaire (think big aquamarine cocktail rings)

Hmm I don't know that I agree. When I think of stones set closer together to look like one stone I think of illusion set. I had a floral cluster as my engagement ring and you could definitely see the individual stones; will try to find a pic

 

[Big Fat Facets]

To me a cluster is made up of stones of a similar size, or perhaps the centre stone being slightly larger than the others, like my pendant.

Whereas a halo is a large stone surrounded by smaller stones.



(BTW, I just love your little black kitty @Big Fat Facets)

thank you @Austina !! He is my heart. We love him to bits. He's really easy to love.

thank you for sharing examples of cluster and halo. your heart pendant is shimmery...the center diamond glows as it's caught the light

 

[denverappraiser]

To me, a cluster is a bunch of similarly sized stones and a halo is a larger center stone surrounded by a bunch of smaller stones (usually all the same size).

 

[Big Fat Facets]

To me, a cluster is a bunch of similarly sized stones and a halo is a larger center stone surrounded by a bunch of smaller stones (usually all the same size).

Thanks so much, Neil!! Very much appreciated!

 

[dk168]

Reviving this thread as I have recently rejected the CAD for my Jeff White re-cut pink Sapphire that he sourced for me during his trip to Tucson 2020 - the photo does not do it justice!!!



Here is a link to the video of the re-cut pink Sapphire next to a small Lake Baringo Ruby (another pink Sapphire) that Jeff had also cut for me:

The pink Sapphire is 7.08mm in diameter. I am after a flower cluster design with an air line/gap as seen in these inspirational ring designs:



Today, my usual contact at the bench I use sent me this CAD, and my heart sank when I saw it as it was more a halo and not a cluster:



I have requested for the size of stones to be increased so as to achieve the cluster look as seen in the inspiration pics, and am waiting for him to get back to me the extra cost that will incur for using bigger LGDs.

I thought the quote he provided to me was a tad on the low side even for LGDs, now I know why!

DK 07-Nov-2023

 

[dk168]

I have received a quote for larger LGDs and it is very reasonable.

However, I have asked if I could finalise the CAD first, in case I would like to go larger and provided this inspirational ring to my contact:



I shall start a new thread about this ring later.

DK

 

[Rfisher]

I shall start a new thread about this ring later.

FWIW
I agree with your wanting to adjust the cads - I like the looks of where you want to go with larger cluster stones, than what the CAD depicts.

 

[dk168]

I already have this ring, a 9mm Rubellite cut by Jeff W in an air gap/line halo, hence I would not want another ring in a similar design:



The pink Sapphire ring is what I would like to have if I were to walk down the aisles again. Since that is not going to happen any time soon if at all, I decided to go ahead and have it made now rather than to wait!

DK

 

[dk168]

FWIW
I agree with your wanting to adjust the cads - I like the looks of where you want to go with larger cluster stones, than what the CAD depicts.

Thanks for that!

DK

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

I am no expert, but I have lived in the UK and Ireland. I never heard halo used there, only cluster (and claws for prongs). I just went and searched each term. Half a page of halos, 3 full pages of clusters.

 

[dk168]

Updated CAD received, still not happy with the proportions, and I have requested to go bigger!



My concern is that, by increasing in the LGD size, with MRBs, they may overwhelm the JW pink Sapphire.

Hence I have asked:
- if they could do a mock up with MRBs in bigger size to see if they overwhelm the Sapphire or not
- if they could source OECs in LGD in bigger size 4 to 4.5mm (this may not be easy or as cost friendly as MRBs)

At the end of the day, I have to balance the look I am trying to achieve and the cost of making the ring. Using LGDs definitely helps to reduce the cost.

DK

 

[dk168]

Updated CAD using 4.5mm stones, that's more like it!



The number of stones is the same number as seen in the photoshop jobbie by @Rfisher! Result!!!

Just waiting to see if the larger stones will overwhelm the centre JW Pink Sapphire or not; and the extra cost incurred compared with 2.7mm LGDs.

DK

 

[dk168]

Settling for 4.5mm stones.

The JW pink Sapphire is very well-cut and sparkly and will not be overshadowed by the larger LGDs, as confirmed by the bench that is making the ring for me.

It is very affordable too.

Can't wait to receive this ring, together with a JW Asscher cut blue Zircon that is also being made, hopefully before the year is out.

DK