Colombian emeralds (pair for earnings)

[T L]

I’m not the resident emerald expert here, but I love that gem, so I know a bit, and I love commenting on emerald threads. Like @voce, I also think color is king, but many in this forum do not care for top color emerald (medium dark very slightly bluish green “Muzo” color is the trade ideal). Therefore, it really depends on the person because some prefer lighter toned emeralds like Chivor and Ethiopian material. If you know you absolutely have to own top color, I would sacrifice size. Inclusions can impede color if there are too many, but I do not think emeralds have to be eye clean to be beautiful.

 

[qubitasaurus]

I have come to the same realization after the guidance on this site. Thank you so much for the link to the post that discusses the muzoemeralds

so now that I have understood that I have to compromise color, treatment, size or clarity, What do you all recommend I should sacrifice.

Should I go with smaller emeralds for the pair and get better quality gems ?

should I consider a cushion cut vs emerald cut ?

I know each of us has preferences and I want your Opinion on what you would be preferable in terms of value for money.

Thoughts please ?

So you are in good luck as emeralds face up large for their ct. weight. And even a 1.5 ct. stone can be quite spready.

I would definitely let go of style of cut, as long as it is not windowed It isnt substantively different to have a cushion cut vs. an emerald cut.

After that I would guess I'd be looking at what was available to see what else I may need to trade off on. Since they're rare, especially in the clarity and treatment level you want and as a matched pair, I dont think this will be about writting a laundry list of desiderata and then finding the exact holy grail stone satisfying everything on that list. It would honestly be better to first check what is actually available at the price point you are looking for.

 

[prs]

@Gem Crazy a couple of years ago we paid less than $1,500/ct for DW's 2.38tcw Zambian emeralds with minor traditional oil.



We had them set into sparkly diamond halos for less than $2K and the result is stunning. They draw complements whenever she wears them, and nobody ever asks if they are Columbian.



It's personal preference but DW chose to put her emerald money into higher quality rings and pendants. These stones are always larger and viewed at a much closer distance than earrings, and they are certainly not hidden by hair half the time. Of course if you are prepared to pay $100K or more for the finest emerald ring, then $25K for earrings would certainly be appropriate. Not trying to put a damper on things at all, just trying to give you some food for thought.

 

[Sunstorm]

I think some people here already know that emeralds are my favorite gems. It has to do with a passion since childhood. Although I have been passionate about jewelry and gems ever since I can remember, emeralds have just held a really special place in my heart forever much before certain diamonds did.

Then I learnt a lot about emeralds since I have been working in this field. I was very fortunate to acquire a truly stunning Panjshir emerald “by accident” and during the history of acquiring my stone I learnt what determines value in emeralds. I had been sitting on my stone for years not realizing how valuable what I had was.

I mean it was a gorgeous stone but some people were put off by a couple of really cool inclusions that are a bit visible. Now of course they are visible because the stone is completely transparent with very few inclusions which is actually a good thing! Inclusion make emeralds actually, a bit is good unless you want to spend a fortune.

Color was what determined the value of my stone and that leads to how I would choose. In CS color in King. This does not mean you need to have top color! While my current stone (ring) is an extremely saturated deep and quite pure green, and I own several earrings with quite a pure green color, I really want to own a lighter bluish green Muzo ring stone one day. They are so attractive and a lot of people love them.

Also, very importantly emeralds have to be seen in person with your own eyes. That was how I learnt what I know today about them, by comparing stones in person. Since there are dealers near you, go see stones! It is a lot of fun.

Lastly for now, as to shapes that is subjective. Mine is an emerald cut but the next one I would like to buy will be a cushion. My earrings house larger pears and smaller rounds but I would love to have cushion earrings too. Or another square shape. Once you see a selection in person you will now what stones make your heart sing (which does not mean they are the only ones that will).

Have fun in your search. CS are so much fun and emeralds are such beautiful and passionate stones.

 

[Gem Crazy]

I believe @T L is the emerald expert here, but my choice would be to sacrifice size or clarity, not color. I believe that when it comes to colored gems, if the color is not one that makes my heart leap for joy, I seldom reach for it to wear. So color is the king in my priority list. I consider minor or lesser treatment as the second most important, as I want my gems to keep well over time--no sense in spending money on beauty that doesn't last; might as well buy some fashion jewelry or CZ then. Clarity can be hit or miss, as I've turned away many stones based on the way the inclusions bothered me. However, often times if the color is top notch it either disguises or draws the eye away from the inclusions. Size is a very personal matter, but I rank it as least important factor out of color, treatment, clarity and size.

You have mentioned wanting fine quality emerald. As such, I think the classic emerald cut would show the attributes emeralds are prized for (the glow and sheen) much better than a cushion cut, which prioritizes brilliance over flash.

I agree. I just got my hands on this set.
What do you guys think? GIA rated as L1 treatment, I am told they are from Muzo. Please give me your opinion on color and cutconsidering the right 2 stones. Carat weight is 2.22 and 2.15
The jewelry says he can cut the bigger one.

This community has been a life saver for me Please give me your thoughts.

 

[Gem Crazy]

finest emerald ring, then $25K for earrings would certainly be appropriate. Not trying to put a

@Gem Crazy a couple of years ago we paid less than $1,500/ct for DW's 2.38tcw Zambian emeralds with minor traditional oil.



We had them set into sparkly diamond halos for less than $2K and the result is stunning. They draw complements whenever she wears them, and nobody ever asks if they are Columbian.



It's personal preference but DW chose to put her emerald money into higher quality rings and pendants. These stones are always larger and viewed at a much closer distance than earrings, and they are certainly not hidden by hair half the time. Of course if you are prepared to pay $100K or more for the finest emerald ring, then $25K for earrings would certainly be appropriate. Not trying to put a damper on things at all, just trying to give you some food for thought.

Wow, These are stunning !!!! I agree earring as usually hidden a ring or pendent gets most attention.

 

[Gem Crazy]

I think some people here already know that emeralds are my favorite gems. It has to do with a passion since childhood. Although I have been passionate about jewelry and gems ever since I can remember, emeralds have just held a really special place in my heart forever much before certain diamonds did.

Then I learnt a lot about emeralds since I have been working in this field. I was very fortunate to acquire a truly stunning Panjshir emerald “by accident” and during the history of acquiring my stone I learnt what determines value in emeralds. I had been sitting on my stone for years not realizing how valuable what I had was.

I mean it was a gorgeous stone but some people were put off by a couple of really cool inclusions that are a bit visible. Now of course they are visible because the stone is completely transparent with very few inclusions which is actually a good thing! Inclusion make emeralds actually, a bit is good unless you want to spend a fortune.

Color was what determined the value of my stone and that leads to how I would choose. In CS color in King. This does not mean you need to have top color! While my current stone (ring) is an extremely saturated deep and quite pure green, and I own several earrings with quite a pure green color, I really want to own a lighter bluish green Muzo ring stone one day. They are so attractive and a lot of people love them.

Also, very importantly emeralds have to be seen in person with your own eyes. That was how I learnt what I know today about them, by comparing stones in person. Since there are dealers near you, go see stones! It is a lot of fun.

Lastly for now, as to shapes that is subjective. Mine is an emerald cut but the next one I would like to buy will be a cushion. My earrings house larger pears and smaller rounds but I would love to have cushion earrings too. Or another square shape. Once you see a selection in person you will now what stones make your heart sing (which does not mean they are the only ones that will).

Have fun in your search. CS are so much fun and emeralds are such beautiful and passionate stones.

I agree with you 100%. I can never bring myself to buy a gem without seeing it first. I am trying to get my hands on as many Gems as possible for me to better understand the stones. The 3 I just posted above are at a jewelry shop about an hour from where I live. I will certainly visit and see them. I am even considering a trip to Colombia to if required. I have always loved rubies and emeralds but have not been in a position to afford top quality gems until recently. I have much to learn. TL and others have been super helpful in the process.

 

[T L]

Well be careful in Columbia. There are many that sell synthetics or triplets, in order to deceive unsuspecting tourists. Only see reputable dealers that provide verifiable and reputable lab reports.

 

[Gem Crazy]

Well be careful in Columbia. There are many that sell synthetics or triplets, in order to deceive unsuspecting tourists. Only see reputable dealers that provide verifiable and reputable lab reports.

I was thinking of visiting George at muzoemeralds. Do you have any recommendations on any reputable vendors ?

 

[Gem Crazy]

I agree. I just got my hands on this set.
What do you guys think? GIA rated as L1 treatment, I am told they are from Muzo. Please give me your opinion on color and cutconsidering the right 2 stones. Carat weight is 2.22 and 2.15
The jewelry says he can cut the bigger one.

This community has been a life saver for me Please give me your thoughts.

Thoughts on these ?

 

[T L]

I believe L1 is minor treatment. It’s hard to tell from photos, but I would avoid surface fissures on the table. They’re often very difficult to see, so you need to ask about those. Filler tends to make them less noticeable, so loupe any gem you’re viewing in the proper light, so you can see light reflecting off the surface. That’s the best way to view fissures.

Here’s an example of a table surface fissure. JR Colombian emeralds called this one gem “top quality.” I beg to differ. If you go in their store super educated about emeralds, or anywhere for that matter, they’ll be less likely to pawn a dud off on you as “top gem.” JR has some beautiful material, but make sure you know your stuff and do not make an impulse purchase based on emotions!!!!!

I’m not familiar with Columbia, so no, not as familiar with dealers Just don’t buy from off the street. Those are tourist traps!!

 

[prs]

Thoughts on these ?

Difficult to tell from the photos. The stones are very clean but would seem to have rather large windows, and don't look particularly vivid.

Have you visited high end B&M jewelry stores to see top class emeralds in person? It's only when you've seen the real thing with your own eyes that you develop the ability to tell the wheat from the chaff. For the kind of money you are looking to spend the stones should be exceptionally well cut and have a vivid green glow. Also they should absolutely come with an AGL cert. GIA are not as highly regarded as AGL for colored stones, but would be acceptable for less valuable emeralds, their code for minor treatment would be F1 not L1.

If you are not in a rush to purchase for Christmas, I would advise a lot more research before you spend a small fortune on emeralds. Also a tour round high end B&M jewelry stores in a big city would be great preparation for a trip to Columbia.

 

[T L]

Just to add to what @prs said, some high end antique jewelry dealers have gorgeous emeralds as well. The mall stores have mediocre material.

 

[voce]

I agree. I just got my hands on this set.
What do you guys think? GIA rated as L1 treatment, I am told they are from Muzo. Please give me your opinion on color and cutconsidering the right 2 stones. Carat weight is 2.22 and 2.15
The jewelry says he can cut the bigger one.

This community has been a life saver for me Please give me your thoughts.

I like the color, but wish there were hand shots, as the way the gems rest on paper, I see large tilt windows.

 

[Sunstorm]

@T L why do you advise against table fissures if I may ask? I have seen some of the best untreated emeralds with one albeit the example you showed is not what I would consider top gem in any regard and yes the fissure is quite bad. But a very very minor tiny scratch that is hard to see with even a loupe would not bother me terribly in an otherwise top stone. But yes you are right in general and it is great advice to check for them, it is just that I guess I think emeralds have to be judged as a whole and not based on one inclusion.

I do agree that OP should visit JR. I honestly love their stones and have friends that work with them. I plan to make the trip to see them one day for my personal collection. OP is extremely lucky to live so close.

I would be extremely vary about buying in Colombia. I have had clients returning with synthetics bought at the mines. It is the best place for opportunistic criminals to take advantage of tourists and the same way it happens in Burma with rubies they are usually accompanied with fake certs too.

 

[Gem Crazy]

@T L why do you advise against table fissures if I may ask? I have seen some of the best untreated emeralds with one albeit the example you showed is not what I would consider top gem in any regard and yes the fissure is quite bad. But a very very minor tiny scratch that is hard to see with even a loupe would not bother me terribly in an otherwise top stone. But yes you are right in general and it is great advice to check for them, it is just that I guess I think emeralds have to be judged as a whole and not based on one inclusion.

I do agree that OP should visit JR. I honestly love their stones and have friends that work with them. I plan to make the trip to see them one day for my personal collection. OP is extremely lucky to live so close.

I would be extremely vary about buying in Colombia. I have had clients returning with synthetics bought at the mines. It is the best place for opportunistic criminals to take advantage of tourists and the same way it happens in Burma with rubies they are usually accompanied with fake certs too.

This is purchase is very difficult, I Am not sure I can trust to give me good gems at a fair price.

Thus far the most beautiful gems I have seen at at muzoemeralds. They sent me pictures of the set below. I am Confused about the color but the brilliance on spot. The gems I shared earlier don’t have the scintillation of these below. I will ask for another video that has them in the hand. Based on another thread, I feel I could trust them if they send them to AGL in NY and arrange an escrow to ensure it is the same gems that are evaluated that come to me.

I don’t know how to share the video of these over here.

 

[Sunstorm]

Yes it is really hard to know whom to trust especially with emeralds. Photos are impossible to assess them on fully but with experience we learn how to. I never seem to capture the life of a great emerald on photo.

I think that life, besides the color is the reason I am beyond attracted to emeralds because no other stone quite has that. It is also impossible to describe but perhaps glow is the word that best describes that and gota de aceite. But gota de aceite as far as I know applies only to Colombian emeralds and this glow does exist in other material as well, as it is also present in my Panjshir. This is what makes the best color a very deep green not allowing the best color to Blacken out.

Ok off my rant here. It is just that it makes me feel so passionate about the stone and it makes them passionate as well as it is so not a superficial brilliance but very deep.

OP you are lucky to see stones in person, this way you can see them at their best. I would love to visit this dealer one day as well. Such a fun adventure that you embarked on this path.

 

[T L]

@T L why do you advise against table fissures if I may ask? I have seen some of the best untreated emeralds with one albeit the example you showed is not what I would consider top gem in any regard and yes the fissure is quite bad. But a very very minor tiny scratch that is hard to see with even a loupe would not bother me terribly in an otherwise top stone. But yes you are right in general and it is great advice to check for them, it is just that I guess I think emeralds have to be judged as a whole and not based on one inclusion.

I do agree that OP should visit JR. I honestly love their stones and have friends that work with them. I plan to make the trip to see them one day for my personal collection. OP is extremely lucky to live so close.

I would be extremely vary about buying in Colombia. I have had clients returning with synthetics bought at the mines. It is the best place for opportunistic criminals to take advantage of tourists and the same way it happens in Burma with rubies they are usually accompanied with fake certs too.

Because the table is the part of the gem you see mostly with your eyes, and if the resin dries up, it will be extremely obvious. I don’t mind fissures in the pavilion or even crown facets. However too many surface fissures can impede the structural integrity of the gem, and make it challenging to set without damaging it.

 

[T L]

This is purchase is very difficult, I Am not sure I can trust to give me good gems at a fair price.

Thus far the most beautiful gems I have seen at at muzoemeralds. They sent me pictures of the set below. I am Confused about the color but the brilliance on spot. The gems I shared earlier don’t have the scintillation of these below. I will ask for another video that has them in the hand. Based on another thread, I feel I could trust them if they send them to AGL in NY and arrange an escrow to ensure it is the same gems that are evaluated that come to me.

I don’t know how to share the video of these over here.

They look lovely, but fine emeralds should not scintillate, especially Columbia’s material. They should look velvety due to microscopic inclusions. The best emeralds are not brilliant or sparkly, like for example, a fine tsavorite would be. Here’s an up close image of one of the finest emeralds ever, the Rockefeller emerald. Notice how the facet shadows are blurred and not sharp. Thats what is desirable about emerald, and not all locations have this feature. Look at a synthetic emerald, and the facet shadows will be sharp. The light return will be more of a glowy green ember instead of a sparkle.

 

[Sunstorm]

True. Setting I have not experienced to pose a problem with. I had cheap emeralds with table fissures set no problem although I used platinum not gold or if we use gold we always use an extremely thin layer and tips of 24 K gold or pure Silver on the area touching the emerald during setting. But Silver does discolor after some time which I am not crazy about.

In addition, I do agree, that kind of a fissure does concern me when it comes to the integrity of the stone. While I have not experienced problems I think it is a mind clean thing.

I would never buy a top stone with it. What does not bother me though is a table scratch that can be polished out but that is entirely different.

 

[T L]

I, and others on this forum, have experienced setting issues due to emerald fissures. It’s a concern, which is why fissures, especially near prongs, is a concern.

I’m also leary of setting emeralds in platinum since it is a hard metal. I prefer double prongs and a softer metal like higher carat gold. The setter, no matter who it is, should be well versed in the nuances of setting these gems, and never ever put an emerald in an ultasonic cleaner.

 

[Sunstorm]

Right! Hard metals are so risky and that is why my master goldsmith always uses that 0.1 mm layer of pure silver or 24k gold where ever metal touches the emerald. Other goldsmiths do not do that but because I personally only wear white metals, I feel better about setting high value emeralds this way.

I am a clean freak so I do clean my emeralds but only with lukewarm water a drop of Jar and a sensitive electric toothbrush and I limit myself at how often I do that. Otherwise I just use a polish cloth. Hard to do as I am so used to cleaning jewelry as a crazy. Resultingly, I do not wear my best emeralds every day and today knowing value I would feel a bit paranoid about that as well. But I would definitely wear even a ring with one that is not the highest quality top gem every day.

 

[T L]

I don’t know if I would call gota de aceite a glow, but more of an optical effect, where light seems to pass through the emerald like a wave, and looking through the emerald is like looking through a viscous liquid. I screen froze this emerald from a video from a high end jeweler. To me, it best describes this effect.

 

[AV_]

I expect emeralds to be cut with a 'window' - or at least less reflective / shallower steps under the table, presumably to display their intense colour better [IMHO, it works]. Inasmuch, the smaller rectangular stones and the squares you have listed look good to me. I expect this clarity for the price - there are no distracting inclusions in these. The smallest rectangular stone seems best of all to me. Wishing for minor treatment GIA F1 at most & would appreciate knowing that the stones look essentially as good without it, as the grade implies.

It is not possible to judge intensity of colour in pictures without reference; emeralds can be very saturated, greener than anything - it does not take expertize to notice such a thing. I would excuse less clarity for great colour; this is a common way of thinking, with some types clarity faults not discounted.

2c

 

[voce]

They look lovely, but fine emeralds should not scintillate, especially Columbia’s material. They should look velvety due to microscopic inclusions. The best emeralds are not brilliant or sparkly, like for example, a fine tsavorite would be. Here’s an up close image of one of the finest emeralds ever, the Rockefeller emerald. Notice how the facet shadows are blurred and not sharp. Thats what is desirable about emerald, and not all locations have this feature. Look at a synthetic emerald, and the facet shadows will be sharp. The light return will be more of a glowy green ember instead of a sparkle.

While what T L says is absolutely true, I would qualify it by saying the brilliance or lack thereof also depends on cut. A fine brilliant round cut tiny emerald I own from Panjshr, for example, has both the sheen and brilliance, but this is impossible for large stones coming from Columbia. I just think in this instance the difference in brilliance may also have to do with the cut of the two different pairs.

The first pair shown has what I consider to be potentially less than ideal cut, judging by the tilt window. The second pair from Muzo Emeralds, look to be of an Asscher cut, and the cut is probably of better precision. I think neither pair looks like they have the gota de aceite effect, but the Asscher cut would definitely lead to higher brilliance even if the rough used to cut them were identical.

I guess what I'm trying to warn is, you should look at plenty of fine emeralds to understand what is prized most. Sheen>brilliance>dullness
I'll take a sparkling emerald that is certified as natural, over one that's just dull with no sheen, any day. The sheen is more important than the sparkle, though.

 

[Gem Crazy]

I don’t know if I would call gota de aceite a glow, but more of an optical effect, where light seems to pass through the emerald like a wave, and looking through the emerald is like looking through a viscous liquid. I screen froze this emerald from a video from a high end jeweler. To me, it best describes this effect.

I see what you mean. I should look for a mellow velvet wavy glow instead of shine, and I thought sparkle is what I should look for. I really don’t know what I don’t know. Feeling a bit scared parting with money on stones that I can’t figure out the value for. Perhaps, I should give up on my quest

I also didn’t know about mounting them in 24 carat gold. Now I understand why most of the emerald jewelry I see is usually in gold instead of platinum.

 

[Sunstorm]

@T L yes, yes, I love the term wave! To me it is kind of like an optcical effect such as a deep fire from within going through the stone especially when tilted/ in movement. I guess the glow is a bit different. Phew this is hard! I see several one of us trying to describe emerald quality factors but it is so hard when one has not seen what we are talking about.

Please, please do not give up @Gem Crazy! You see the hunt and learning is a huge part of the fun. Go see as many different quality emeralds in person and you will learn what matters to you. You have a nice budget for gorgeous earrings!

And no, no you do not need to have the entire setting in 24K in fact that is way too soft. We only coat the inside and the end of prongs, again difficult to explain. It is not plating. This is my old school hand-forging goldsmith that does that and he knows a lot of things others don’t. But other goldsmiths and setters do just fine not doing that and setting emeralds in 18 K, even 14. Just use a highly recommended designer/bench.

 

[T L]

I see what you mean. I should look for a mellow velvet wavy glow instead of shine, and I thought sparkle is what I should look for. I really don’t know what I don’t know. Feeling a bit scared parting with money on stones that I can’t figure out the value for. Perhaps, I should give up on my quest

I also didn’t know about mounting them in 24 carat gold. Now I understand why most of the emerald jewelry I see is usually in gold instead of platinum.

Emerald shopping, as with most expensive colored gems, is not easy. It’s not like purchasing a colorless diamond or a new car. There are no set amounts for these gems as dealers can charge whatever they want.

I think you should see as many gems as you can to determine quality. You’re correct to be concerned because you’re not parting with a small amount of money. You do want to make sure you get what you pay for. Education is key.