#JOTW Custom 2.22ctw scattered DBTY bracelet and my DBTY family

[RosieR]

As you know bracelets are my weakness and this really doesn’t disappoint. Cool understated and perfectly luxurious! I too would look to build up the bezels on the smaller diamonds, but that’s just because I like uniformity. I’d stick to the square base though to minimize the risk of flipping. Congratulations on a wonderful new piece (and bundle of joy to come!)

 

[Pomelo]

I loved reading your journey! I also love how you seem to take such careful consideration into what you want to make sure it’s a permanent part of your collection (unlike me! I get something that is “almost” perfect and then regret it or spend more when the perfect one does come along lol). It’s beautiful and I do hope that you find a resolution to the issues you have. An extender seems a great idea.

Thank you! Haha, TBH I think I'm also so lazy that I just want one piece per 'category' and not have to think about looks good every day!

As you know bracelets are my weakness and this really doesn’t disappoint. Cool understated and perfectly luxurious! I too would look to build up the bezels on the smaller diamonds, but that’s just because I like uniformity. I’d stick to the square base though to minimize the risk of flipping. Congratulations on a wonderful new piece (and bundle of joy to come!)

Hehe thanks; hmm decisions decisions on the setting...!

 

[Pomelo]

Follow up projects - Part 1

The other projects were much simpler one-station bezel pieces: YG studs, YG solitaire floating ring, WG necklace and WG bracelet.

You guys know that I’m a bezel addict by now and so I took this opportunity to build out my DBTY / bezel family.


YG bezel studs

I already own a YG 0.39ct K VS2 one-station necklace (35.5/40.8 CA/PA) that was leftover from my e-ring design. What surprised me was how white the K colour looked against the YG and my skin, and it’s excellent performance. I wear this a lot in summer to have just a drop of sparkle on the neck.

So, ever curious, I decided to buy some well-cut 0.30-0.31ct L-M VVS2-VS1 and see what they look like in YG bezels; this also filled a gap in my collection for small, simple YG diamond studs.

Using my calipers, the finished studs had a diameter of 5.1mm vs. 4.27mm diamonds (0.8mm bezel width). FYI the finished bezels on the earrings are slightly thinner than this photo as I got them shaved down by the jeweller.




Whilst they were initially intended for my first lobe piercing (and they look fine in them), these quickly moved to my second piercing, and my Tiffany 0.16ctw platinum studs moved up to my third piercing. One of the studs also replaced a 0.5ct-eq moissanite pear-cut stud I wore in my helix, as the performance was so so so much better.

I also decided NOT to set the studs in the Tiffany DBTY style U-prong because, after years of wear, my platinum Tiffany DBTY setting has bent slightly. However, I’m not sure whether it’s due to the U-prong design or just that I sleep in my earrings and in future, I might set a larger pair of bezel MRBs in the lighter U-prong design. I tried on some 0.86ctw DBTY at Tiffany and the diamonds just look more floaty! (The Tiffany pair were also $8.7k… for 2x 0.43ct H VS1 studs. I’m happy to support designer brands but there was no way I would ever fork out this much!)

(Wearing the Tiffany 0.86ctw pair I tried on with my 0.16ctw platinum pair - I do think the Tiffany diamonds look larger for their carat weight)


Overall, I’m loving the performance of the MRBs, don’t notice any yellowness and it makes me smile whenever I catch a hint of sparkle in the mirror.

If I were to redo the project, I would set them in Tiffany-style DBTY U-prongs instead, because wearing them in my second piercing means that I can sometimes see the depth of the bezel setting, which doesn’t look as light as the Tiffany setting. However, this is splitting hairs and I’m sure I’m the only one who notices.

I'm considering a larger pair of studs - maybe 6.5-7.0mm diameter (including the bezel) for my first piercings. But that'll be a project for next year

 

[Pomelo]

Follow up projects - Part 2


YG floating diamond ring

The ‘floating’ ring design came about because I had wanted a single, small floating diamond ring as an alternative to my e-ring. Inspiration photos and settings came from Repossi, Katkim and Lia Lam.



James Allen had a beautiful 0.51ct M VS1 (35.0/40.8 CA/PA) with neat faceting at a good price, so I added it to the basket.

Kudos to my Abu Dhabi-based jeweller for working with me on yet another wacky ring setting. I provided inspiration photos and a hand-scribbled doodle, and he translated it to CAD. We went back and forth on the CAD several times to make sure that the diamond was positioned in the right place, and after the creation was made in YG, we tweaked it by bending the diamond ‘arm’ inwards. This photo shows what it looked like at first - a gap between the diamond and the finger.

There is a small cleaning hole on the inside of the design so from the outside, it is a continuous surface of gold.

I made this ring 1.5 EU sizes larger than my usual ring size as I thought I might switch it up to wear on my right hand too, but it actually fits pretty snug because (1) the width of the ring comprises both the band and the diamond, i.e. is 4mm wide, and (2) my fingers are swollen in the summer heat.

I have to admit - I didn’t immediately take to this ring. My jeweller purposefully made the bezel thicker (1.3mm rather than 0.8mm for the studs) for extra protection on the hands, and I thought the 0.5ct diamond looked a bit small on my finger. But after having it for a couple of weeks, I think this is the most successful creation of this project!

Why? Because (1) the diamond really looks like it’s floating on the finger above a YG band, (2) the opposite of DSS occurred and I’ve grown used to the smaller diamond size, (3) the thicker bezel increases the face-up size marginally, (4) I get to admire a well performing diamond whenever I look at my fingers.

 

[Pomelo]

YG bezels - Diamond colour comparison

An interesting part of this project was to see if I could tell / cared about differences in colour (the diamonds generally fell into the PS standard for fire, which has steeper crown angles than ACA).




Can I tell the difference between my D-G bracelet vs K necklace, L-M studs and M ring? Yes, when they are right next to each other and when I’m looking very hard. But at a normal viewing distance, I really don’t see much difference. PS, I think my diamond superpower is zero colour sensitivity

Does it bother me when I wear my D-G bracelet with the M-colour floating ring? Not at all. Bear in mind that my OEC e-ring is a GIA L and I don’t really notice the difference, so I’d happily wear them together.




And here is the YG family!

 

[lulu_ma]

Love all your additions! I hope that you can perfect your bracelet. The design is unexpected and chic-just like your ering.

 

[PastryGirl]

Love love love love this, and your entire collection!

 

[Natylad]

I am in love with these new pieces of yours @Pomelo! Your style is exquisite and all these assorted pieces look amazing on you. I am in awe! I also appreciate and admire the amount of time and thought that you invested in these projects! You are a fellow perfectionist! So huge congratulations on the latest additions of your collection!
On another note, I'd like to ask you how you feel about wearing your JUC bracelet regularly. Does it feel comfortable? Does it get scratched a lot? Do you catch yourself feeling very conscious of your bracelet banging on your desk at work etc? I' m so sorry for threadjacking but lately I'm considering buying this bracelet and I have all those worries.
Last comment: It's a good thing that your watch has a leather strap and you can use it as a spacer between your JUC and your DBTY bracelets. I wear a Rolex oyster perpetual datejust watch and my DBTY bracelet was constantly getting caught in the bracelet of the watch. It was making me anxious and it was enervating me. Eventually it broke. I got it repaired and gave it to my daughter who refuses to wear a watch or another bracelet, so it's safe in her hands!!!
Congratulations again and wear all your new pieces in good health!!!

 

[Eli22]

I absolutely love your new pieces! That bracelet is magic! I am also in love with the floating diamond ring your bezel collection is TDF. Thanks for sharing the journey!!

 

[oldcutclubmember]

Oh this bracelet is such a beautiful and cool design that fits so well with your collection and aesthetic! I just love it! I hope you can tweak it without having to change too much of the original look/design.

The floating ring curves so delicately around your finger with the dimaond peaking out from the side… all of your new additions are absolutely lovely!

 

[Pomelo]

I am in love with these new pieces of yours @Pomelo! Your style is exquisite and all these assorted pieces look amazing on you. I am in awe! I also appreciate and admire the amount of time and thought that you invested in these projects! You are a fellow perfectionist! So huge congratulations on the latest additions of your collection!
On another note, I'd like to ask you how you feel about wearing your JUC bracelet regularly. Does it feel comfortable? Does it get scratched a lot? Do you catch yourself feeling very conscious of your bracelet banging on your desk at work etc? I' m so sorry for threadjacking but lately I'm considering buying this bracelet and I have all those worries.
Last comment: It's a good thing that your watch has a leather strap and you can use it as a spacer between your JUC and your DBTY bracelets. I wear a Rolex oyster perpetual datejust watch and my DBTY bracelet was constantly getting caught in the bracelet of the watch. It was making me anxious and it was enervating me. Eventually it broke. I got it repaired and gave it to my daughter who refuses to wear a watch or another bracelet, so it's safe in her hands!!!
Congratulations again and wear all your new pieces in good health!!!

Thank you ^_^ and sorry to hear about your DBTY!

I have been wearing my JUC day and night for more than four years until I got this DBTY. It's scratched but I think the design of the piece (with its utilitarian nail shape) lends itself well to looking a bit scuffed! I actually think the JUC looks incredible in WG with scuffs - such a cool vibe. The Ecrou in WG has been on my wishlist for years (as I wouldn't get a JUC in both RG and WG) but never been at the top of the priority pile.

It took a small amount of adjustment to get used to wearing a bangle (as I never wore one before) but it's honestly so comfortable and as long as you get the right size, it doesn't bash. I wear it at the gym, in bed, in the shower. Also - I think it's worth getting the 'regular' size over the thinner JUC, which felt flimsy to me (especially how it just 'twists' onto the wrist!) and I don't know how it'd stand up to wear.

Perhaps one thing is the closing mechanism on the JUC - I haven't take it off/put it on many times (maybe 10-20 times these last four years) but I wonder if it holds up as well as other mechanisms? TBH I don't have an answer for this, but I do feel like the closing mechanism on my Hermes CDC has more longevity.

Overall though, I would highly recommend it - absolutely love it! Which version (gold, pave) are you looking at?


Hermes CDC closing mechanism here - photo taken from Fashionphile

 

[Natylad]

Thank you ^_^ and sorry to hear about your DBTY!

I have been wearing my JUC day and night for more than four years until I got this DBTY. It's scratched but I think the design of the piece (with its utilitarian nail shape) lends itself well to looking a bit scuffed! I actually think the JUC looks incredible in WG with scuffs - such a cool vibe. The Ecrou in WG has been on my wishlist for years (as I wouldn't get a JUC in both RG and WG) but never been at the top of the priority pile.

It took a small amount of adjustment to get used to wearing a bangle (as I never wore one before) but it's honestly so comfortable and as long as you get the right size, it doesn't bash. I wear it at the gym, in bed, in the shower. Also - I think it's worth getting the 'regular' size over the thinner JUC, which felt flimsy to me (especially how it just 'twists' onto the wrist!) and I don't know how it'd stand up to wear.

Perhaps one thing is the closing mechanism on the JUC - I haven't take it off/put it on many times (maybe 10-20 times these last four years) but I wonder if it holds up as well as other mechanisms? TBH I don't have an answer for this, but I do feel like the closing mechanism on my Hermes CDC has more longevity.

Overall though, I would highly recommend it - absolutely love it! Which version (gold, pave) are you looking at?


Hermes CDC closing mechanism here - photo taken from Fashionphile

Thank you so much @Pomelo for this thorough and informative answer. I'm considering the yellow gold bangle in the regular size. The longevity of the closing mechanism is definitely an issue that has been troubling me, because I am a very nervous person by nature and I keep taking off all my pieces, even during the working day (terrible habit, one day I might lose a piece).
I'm worried that I might be taking the bracelet off and putting it back on multiple times per week and I'm not sure whether the closing mechanism could withstand this. Nevertheless, if it is as comfortable and durable as you describe, maybe I should put it on and leave it on permanently as you have done (I'm sure it will take some getting used to this!) .
Thank you again for your response. It really helped me! Enjoy your amazing collection of bling!!!

 

[PriceScopeKayti]

Please join me in congratulating @Pomelo, this DBtY bracelet is the Jewel of the Week! JotW 8.4.23

 

[MissGotRocks]

Congrats on Jewel of the Week - well deserved!!

 

[RMOO]

Just beautiful!

 

[Slickk]

You’re entire collection is stuff dreams are made of…

 

[Pomelo]

Thank you so much @Pomelo for this thorough and informative answer. I'm considering the yellow gold bangle in the regular size. The longevity of the closing mechanism is definitely an issue that has been troubling me, because I am a very nervous person by nature and I keep taking off all my pieces, even during the working day (terrible habit, one day I might lose a piece).
I'm worried that I might be taking the bracelet off and putting it back on multiple times per week and I'm not sure whether the closing mechanism could withstand this. Nevertheless, if it is as comfortable and durable as you describe, maybe I should put it on and leave it on permanently as you have done (I'm sure it will take some getting used to this!) .
Thank you again for your response. It really helped me! Enjoy your amazing collection of bling!!!

To be honest, I think Cartier would fix it if the mechanism ever gets worn out, so I don't think it should be a make-or-break factor

 

[Pomelo]

Please join me in congratulating @Pomelo, this DBtY bracelet is the Jewel of the Week! JotW 8.4.23

Thanks Kayti

and everyone else that I haven't thanked personally so far cos I was so focussed on trying to find a solution to my pokey culet problem!
@dk168 @Tartansparkles @lucida818 @MissGotRocks @Ally T @monarch64 @lovedogs @JV36912 @cushioncutnut @stracci2000 @sweets4dsweet @Sparkledrops @Mrsz1ppy @Mreader @tyty333 @RMOO @Slickk @RosieR @lulu_ma @PastryGirl @Eli22

I find PS is the best place to learn from each other (and our collective mistakes, hah!) as well as to enjoy everyone's creations.

Speaking of mistakes, I woke up earlier this week to find that a culet had taken a small bite out of my skin, so I'm gonna have to get it reset

 

[Rubies-R-Me]

@Pomelo.. your new bracelet is absolutely stunning.!! The way it echos your ring is just perfect.

 

[RunningwithScissors]

Congrats on your new bracelet! (And your baby bump!). I love how deliberate you have been with the design of the bracelet and how you honestly list the pros and cons.

Most of my own pieces are "works in progress", meaning I love them, but there are also things I may tweak eventually. But who knows. I'm enjoying them as they are. I hope you get lots of enjoyment out of your new piece, it is beautiful and unique to you. And good luck with all things baby!

 

[Pomelo]

@Pomelo.. your new bracelet is absolutely stunning.!! The way it echos your ring is just perfect.

Thank you!

Congrats on your new bracelet! (And your baby bump!). I love how deliberate you have been with the design of the bracelet and how you honestly list the pros and cons.

Most of my own pieces are "works in progress", meaning I love them, but there are also things I may tweak eventually. But who knows. I'm enjoying them as they are. I hope you get lots of enjoyment out of your new piece, it is beautiful and unique to you. And good luck with all things baby!

Thanks - yes, I think the tinkering is part of the journey, especially when we're getting things custom-made. What tweaks are you thinking of getting done?

 

[clockworkreader]

Hi Pomelo! I hope you don’t mind me reviving this relatively old post. Your YG collection is to die for and thank you so much for writing about your process in so much detail!

I’m getting a DBTY bracelet made in the Tiffany thin bezel style (read: exposed cutlet) and I’m currently undecided on how loose or tight to make it. On the one hand, tighter = less likely to flip, but it also means more poking. I notice that you made your bracelet 15.5cm — what is your wrist circumference, if you don’t mind me asking? Mine is 14cm and I’m not sure whether 15.5 would be too snug.

Also, did you end up getting your bracelet reset & fixing the cutlet issue?

Best wishes to you and your baby! I hope you’re all in good health.

 

[Pomelo]

Hi Pomelo! I hope you don’t mind me reviving this relatively old post. Your YG collection is to die for and thank you so much for writing about your process in so much detail!

I’m getting a DBTY bracelet made in the Tiffany thin bezel style (read: exposed cutlet) and I’m currently undecided on how loose or tight to make it. On the one hand, tighter = less likely to flip, but it also means more poking. I notice that you made your bracelet 15.5cm — what is your wrist circumference, if you don’t mind me asking? Mine is 14cm and I’m not sure whether 15.5 would be too snug.

Also, did you end up getting your bracelet reset & fixing the cutlet issue?

Best wishes to you and your baby! I hope you’re all in good health.

Hello! Sorry for the late response, I don't "watch" threads so didn't realise you had asked a question (please either "reply" or "tag" me in future )

My wrist is 14.5cm but I'm going to get this reset to a bangle. The exposed culets on the larger diamonds were too scratchy for comfort, and I didn't like the stations flipping.

I also bought a bracelet extender to see if that'd make it more comfortable - but the poking issue remained

How big are the diamonds going to be in your DBTY? If they're smaller then it'd help massively on the comfort factor (or ask for a deeper setting). However, I wanted to have that 'floating' DBTY look with minimal metal.

 

[Dreamer_D]

What a fun thread! All of these pieces are lovely and very inspiring. It’s funny, when you were talking about filets polo g I was thinking “I wonder if old cuts would be better for this application after all!” The flat cutlets might not hurt?

I look forward to your bangle reset, which is more in line with my style, so I can be inspired!

@Pomelo

 

[MissGotRocks]

@Pomelo , sorry that you are going to have to reset but I am sure it will be spectacular as well! Reminds me of the shared prong wedding bands that saw into an engagement ring setting. Beautiful look as is your DBTY bracelet, but not wholly practical for every day wear.

 

[clockworkreader]

Hello! Sorry for the late response, I don't "watch" threads so didn't realise you had asked a question (please either "reply" or "tag" me in future )

My wrist is 14.5cm but I'm going to get this reset to a bangle. The exposed culets on the larger diamonds were too scratchy for comfort, and I didn't like the stations flipping.

I also bought a bracelet extender to see if that'd make it more comfortable - but the poking issue remained

How big are the diamonds going to be in your DBTY? If they're smaller then it'd help massively on the comfort factor (or ask for a deeper setting). However, I wanted to have that 'floating' DBTY look with minimal metal.

Oop, thank you for the tip! Long time lurker but rare commenter here.

Sad that the bracelet extender didn’t help, because your original bracelet setting pictured is just beautiful. But I’m sure the reset bangle will be lovely — I hope you’ll post pictures once it’s done!

My stones are going to be itty bitty compared to yours; only 10 pointers. I am planning on leaving this bracelet on 24/7 though, so I really hope it’ll be comfortable enough to sleep in.

I bit the bullet and ordered my bracelet with the very thin bezels because I much prefer the floating look (that one picture you posted of your bracelet’s side profile when on your wrist really helped me see the difference). I hope it’ll get here soon!!

Thank you again for the kind and detailed reply, and sending absolute best wishes to you

 

[clockworkreader]

What a fun thread! All of these pieces are lovely and very inspiring. It’s funny, when you were talking about filets polo g I was thinking “I wonder if old cuts would be better for this application after all!” The flat cutlets might not hurt?

I look forward to your bangle reset, which is more in line with my style, so I can be inspired!

@Pomelo

This is GENIUS! We need someone to test this out immediately, though I’m sure some creative PSer has already done this. I’m an OEC lover (though I sadly don’t own any yet), so the potential added comfort of the flat cutlet is just a cherry on top.

 

[Dreamer_D]

What a fun thread! All of these pieces are lovely and very inspiring. It’s funny, when you were talking about filets polo g I was thinking “I wonder if old cuts would be better for this application after all!” The flat cutlets might not hurt?

Sorry about the typos! Lol

“When you were talking about CULETS POKING YOU I was thinking… the flat CULETS might not hurt.”

 

[Pomelo]

What a fun thread! All of these pieces are lovely and very inspiring. It’s funny, when you were talking about filets polo g I was thinking “I wonder if old cuts would be better for this application after all!” The flat cutlets might not hurt?

I look forward to your bangle reset, which is more in line with my style, so I can be inspired!

@Pomelo

Haha I am floored by the suggestion, how clever!! But alas, the flipping would still occur.

I really should get on it with my reset but I’ve been captivated (okay, obsessed) by pearls lately so that’s where all my funds are going at the moment. And it doesn’t help that gold prices are so high!

Actually, I was thinking about getting it reset in platinum - not just because of the gold price, but also because I’ve looked everywhere for a WG everyday bangle with a smattering of diamonds and I can’t find one I’d want to wear daily.

So, watch this space… but with a lot of patience please

@Pomelo , sorry that you are going to have to reset but I am sure it will be spectacular as well! Reminds me of the shared prong wedding bands that saw into an engagement ring setting. Beautiful look as is your DBTY bracelet, but not wholly practical for every day wear.

Yes exactly! I’m usually a practical person and thought I could get over the exposed culets and flipping… I could not

Oop, thank you for the tip! Long time lurker but rare commenter here.

Sad that the bracelet extender didn’t help, because your original bracelet setting pictured is just beautiful. But I’m sure the reset bangle will be lovely — I hope you’ll post pictures once it’s done!

My stones are going to be itty bitty compared to yours; only 10 pointers. I am planning on leaving this bracelet on 24/7 though, so I really hope it’ll be comfortable enough to sleep in.

I bit the bullet and ordered my bracelet with the very thin bezels because I much prefer the floating look (that one picture you posted of your bracelet’s side profile when on your wrist really helped me see the difference). I hope it’ll get here soon!!

Thank you again for the kind and detailed reply, and sending absolute best wishes to you

Ooh glad you bit the bullet! I think 10 pointers would be comfortable - did you try on the multi station DBTY bracelet at Tiffany’s? IIRC they were 10/12 points and definitely comfortable enough for daily wear without the culets. I just got a bit greedy and wanted bigger diamonds

Please do update us when it’s finished!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I have long admired these delicate station bracelets but I know for me the fidgety flipping issue would also be a deal breaker. I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

Ah pearls. I love them too. I own a very modest freshwater tin cup style necklace and a string of faux and I am hooked just from those. I saw a string of natural pearls with a decent lustre in a local antique shop (way over priced imo) and the surge of desire was strong. I am planning to indulge next year once I have completed my five stone project. I’d like to learn how to string my own! It seems like a pastime I would love.