Custom setting vendor needed for 1925 Tiffany Asscher ER

[drk14]

Head
The filigree lines in the head are not merging into one another like the original. They lines are instead stacking when they intersect. Also, the rounder endpoints on the filigree curls are missing like the original. Also, the top rim of the head and how it connects and becomes part of the prong is very different compared to the original.

I agree about the prong tips. There needs to be a square tab at the top of the vartical "stems" in the head, the scalloped bezel should attach to the sides of these tabs, and then the tab should be shaped into a prong.

However, I think you may have to be more forgiving about the head/gallery. To my eyes, the scalloped bezel holding the diamond in the original is in fact "stacked" on top of the filigree curls. However, the original has been polished down to where you can't see the two parts join. Also, the angle of the photo and the curvature of the metal makes it look more like an intersection in the original. They may be able to improve things by making the scalloped bezel part thinner (so that the increased thickness where the two "stacked" pieces join up is not as obvious). They may also be able to flatten out the sides of the join when they finish the setting.

As far as the "rounder endpoints on the filigree curls", to my eyes, they are there in the CAD, but hard to make out due to the angle of the rendering.

One issue that you are dealing with is that to reproduce every curve, shape and relative spacing from the original, you would have needed a 1.6-carat center diamond (because of the larger ring size). If I read your old threads correctly, you have a 1.15ct center. In effect, this means that the head and gallery of the original has to be squished to about 90% of its original size (assuming the two diamonds have the same angles and depth %). As a result, something has to be different in the look & feel of the reproduction, there's simply no way around it.

And, I don't know if I'm adding fuel to the fire here, but to me, the biggest difference between the original and the repro, is that the original has a knife-edge shank. This allows the marquise-shaped cathedral shoulders to emerge in a very graceful and natural way from the shank, because the curvature of the knife-edge merges seamlessly with the point of the "marquise" shoulder.

 

[HopeDream]

Your cads are really coming along nicely!

I think the size ratio is still a bit off for the side stones.
In the original the stones are "little BIG little" in the CAD the side stones are either all the same or "little medium little", so the side stone areas sill look a bit stretched out and not as full and rounded as they should be.

You might want to inquire about single cut melee instead of full cut melee for the side stones. I can't tell for sure, but the inspiration may have used single cut melee.

 

[EvangelineG]

Your cads are really coming along nicely!

I think the size ratio is still a bit off for the side stones.
In the original the stones are "little BIG little" in the CAD the side stones are either all the same or "little medium little", so the side stone areas sill look a bit stretched out and not as full and rounded as they should be.

You might want to inquire about single cut melee instead of full cut melee for the side stones. I can't tell for sure, but the inspiration may have used single cut melee.

This. The most visually striking difference for me is also the side stones. The one closest to the centre stone looks too large which is throwing off the overall shape of the shoulders and the taper to centre.

 

[john_john]

Your cads are really coming along nicely!

I think the size ratio is still a bit off for the side stones.
In the original the stones are "little BIG little" in the CAD the side stones are either all the same or "little medium little", so the side stone areas sill look a bit stretched out and not as full and rounded as they should be.

You might want to inquire about single cut melee instead of full cut melee for the side stones. I can't tell for sure, but the inspiration may have used single cut melee.

This. The most visually striking difference for me is also the side stones. The one closest to the centre stone looks too large which is throwing off the overall shape of the shoulders and the taper to centre.

Thanks HopeDream and EvangelineG for the suggestions to have the side stone dimensions reviewed. I have to confess that at the point I read your posts I was pretty drained in the process and really wanted to focus on getting the prongs and head right. I have updates which I'll post immediately.

 

[john_john]

So its been several weeks and I have some exciting updates. The CAD team at ERD was really not getting the prongs and head right, and decided to get a friend involved. The friend modeled the ring with a different technique in constructing the basket/head where they started with a cylindrical shape part and cut out the filigree. Here's the resulting CADs which I was really happy with. Note that the prongs are modeled in an incomplete state and would need to be bent/rolled over to secure the center diamond:



Unfortunately, use of the older CAD software meant not being able to create the hard plastic, wearable prototype. They made a machine-milled prototype with wax, but it was extremely brittle and we weren't able to have it shipped and inspected in person:



I signed off and the hand forger got started on Monday. I just received some photos today of the state of the ring and have to say I'm pleased with how it's coming along:

 

[Acinom]

Wow!! It looks amazing
I can imagine why you are thrilled with this result.
Thanks for posting this update

 

[Gypsy]

Very nice.

 

[Niel]

That looks great! You mist be happy

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

WOW! ERD went above and beyond to get this right for you! I can see why you loved those tab prongs, that really is something special.

 

[yorkgirl]

Stunning repro I'd be thrilled.

 

[EvangelineG]

John, what a long journey you have had on this one! But I think you are there. It is looking fantastic. Congrats!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

It is looking great! They are going to add the milgrain, right?

 

[john_john]

It is looking great! They are going to add the milgrain, right?

Yeah, they will add the milgrain around the marquise-shaped side stone areas.

I'm so happy to read everyone's comments. It indeed has been a very long journey! I can't thank everyone enough on the thread for helping me through the process. Thanks again Gypsy for finding the lovely asscher!

 

[pyramid]

Beautiful ring. Really love how the metal goes in and out on the side view, love the roll over prongs and most of all love
how the asscher really fits the head, not like most with a lot of metal or square look around the asscher. This is one of
the best rings (in my opinion) I have seen here.

 

[john_john]

Milgrain added and shipped today! I should have it tomorrow, so expect the hand shots soon


I'll post hand shots and such here, but should I start a new thread for showing the ring in its completed state? Perhaps in Show Me The Bling?

 

[Acinom]

The ring is amazing! She will be thrilled. You did your utmost to create such a stunning ring.
You can indeed start a thread in Show me the bling when you have received the ring.

Enjoy your special moment together when you propose

 

[geoffreysnow]

So glad it's working out! Such an adventure!

 

[luvdajules]

wow, just beautiful and so delicate. It's so perfect and yet made by hand. Lovely...so glad you got a good result after all! Good luck with the proposal and can't wait for the hand shots.

 

[motownmama]

VERY special ring!!!

 

[john_john]

I received the ring today and we have our first quick batch of hand photos (note: I actually proposed back in May with the first repro ring). I'll take a few more with the better camera and lighting in the next week or so. For today, the iphone on my lunch break is good enough

 

[Travelgal]

Looks great. You must be thrilled! Long journey but the final ring looks amazing. Congrats!!!