Cutting a new platinum ring to size?

[nek]

Dear Forum,

I have had mixed opinions from different jewellers regarding sizing platinum rings.

1. Hand made platinum rings are always made slightly larger with the setting in place, before cutting the platinum (under the finger / opposite spot in ring from the setting) and re-soldering each arm to the desired size.

2. Hand made diamond rings are made to size (cutting or adding to the arms where they meet the setting) before soldering the setting into place, thus there is no join in the platinum band and the connections are at the setting.

#2 sounds like a better quality job to me, but i have heard one jeweller say #2 is impossible to do and another say #1 is just poor workmanship.

Also, is there any significant difference between 95 platinum and 97 platinum with the same alloy?

Opinions please?
Kind regards
nek

 

[stone-cold11]

Weird, if it is custom made, it should be the exact size you ordered.

Pt will depend on the exact alloying metal and if that metal can be work hardened/did the jeweler work hardened But if both uses the same alloying metal and anneal/work hardened to the hardest value, yes the 2% difference will be noticeable.

For example, a Pt950/Ir is be around 80HV, 40000PSI, while a Pt900/Ir is around 110 HV, 55000PSI.

 

[nek]

yes it is the exact size, but the band has a definite break in it where each side has been soldered together. surely this can''t be right.

 

[nek]

wow back to page 3 in less than one day!
bumping so that i get some more opinions please.
also, is there any real difference between 95 and 97 % platinum?

Rings handmade from scratch are made to the right size aren''t they? they aren''t made bigger and then resized down?

 

[stone-cold11]

If it is a cast ring, it should be made to the exact size.

 

[CharmyPoo]

A skilled jeweler should be able to accomplish #2. #1 sounds silly to me for a custom made piece - why would they make it the wrong size and re-size it after.