DIY ring tutorial?

[aqua_shopper]

Greetings all,
First off, great site, tons of useful info here and greatly appreciate everyone's efforts to build a great site.

I've done some searching and haven't been able to find what I'm looking for:

I'm basically looking for a tutorial outlining what I need to do and in what order to build a custom ring.

I've found the perfect setting off LOGR (thanks to you all), but I also read somewhere I should get the gem first...

I haven't had much success finding a gem that fits the setting, so should I shop for a gem and then get a custom setting through LOGR?

The main problems I don't know how to tackle is the number 1 rule for colored gems is to examine it with your own eyes, but the stores I've gone to don't really sell too many gemstones, as everyone is obsessed with diamonds (except my fiance), let alone a large carat aquamarine, with a specific cut (cushion).

Then how do you ensure the gem you buy fits into the setting? It seems that the height width and depth measurements give some general fit info, but might still pose issues, although I admit I don't know a lot about all of this.

Lastly, once you have everything you need, do I just take the items to any jewelry store and ask them to assemble it? What should I expect the store's commission to be?

I am just rambling now, so if someone can point me to a comprehensive guide walking newbies through this process, I would appreciate it. I have a good idea of what I want, but unfortunately I am unsure how to get there.

Thanks again!

 

[innerkitten]

Don't feel overwhelmed. It will all come together eventually. Yes it would be a good idea to shop around for a stone first. Have you checked out the vendors in the sticky list above? I would start there with an idea of what your looking for shape wise. If you are thinking of using a stock setting you might want to look for a calibrated size. You might also be able to have stone cut to the size and shape you're looking for.
Just out of curiosity why an aqua? They are very pretty but might not be great for an everyday ring. Do you love that shade of blue? Have you considered a light sapphire? If you use an aqua you'll have to baby it.

 

[chrono]

Hello and welcome.

You are correct that it will be far easier to find the stone, then the setting to fit rather than the other way around. LD has written an excellent write up for those who are ready to tackle the hunt itself.
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/new-to-coloured-gemstone-buying-read-this-first.174284/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/new-to-coloured-gemstone-buying-read-this-first.174284/[/URL]

To ensure the stone will fit, you need to know the setting size info, which is usually a calibrated size. If an oval, let's say it is a 8x6 mm setting. Your stone needs to be within the range of 7.5 mm to 8.5 mm x 5.5 mm to 6.5 mm at the very most. The closer you stay to 8x6 mm, the better your chances of your stone fitting in well. Some gems might be unusually deep so sometimes, even though the length x width dimensions might fit, the depth will not.

Bring your stone and setting to a jewellery store with an in-house bench. Inquire to see their work and also to find out if he/she feels comfortable with setting coloured gemstones. Many are only familiar with setting diamonds and at most sapphires, which are more durable and easier to set. Pricing will vary based on location but expect to pay anywhere between $50 to $100.

 

[aqua_shopper]

Thanks for the info so far.

I have looked through the sticky post but to be honest I was a bit disappointed in what I saw. If I am buying a $1,000+ gem online, I want more than just one medium-res jpg of a stone (if you are lucky...many don't have photos, only list what it is, and expect you to take their word). Especially after reading of all the things you need to watch out for in shopping for colored gems, none of those websites gave me a "Warm-fuzzy" about spending lots of money to only get a gem with a different color than the photo, or has a window. I kind of expected more, and unfortunately as I mentioned before, there aren't any places nearby that offer much in terms of colored stones to view in person...everything is diamonds. Do people really buy these gemstones virtually sight unseen? Seems risky...

As far as the aquamarine goes, it's what I've been focusing on. Fiance loves Tiffany, and anything Tiffany Blue...I want to get her the Tiffany Legacy, but to be honest it's a bit expensive for what you get, and feel she will enjoy a nicer custom ring vs the ring with a big name brand. I'm not opposed to other gems, but I want to stick to a light blue if possible...I will look at sapphires, but I'm not sure my budget can afford a large-carat gemstone that I was looking for. All that being said...aren't Aquas on the higher end of the hardness scale? It's no diamond, but figured it was still adequate for daily wear.

 

[innerkitten]

http://chemistry.about.com/od/geochemistry/a/mohsscale.htm

There are baby blue sapphires out there and they are often less expensive in lighter colors. It's up to you. But a harder more durable stone is less likely to get damaged with everyday wear.

 

[innerkitten]

Another thought. Sometimes spinel comes in light blue. It is considered fairly durable.
http://www.swalagemtraders.com/search-gems/results.php

 

[LD]

Hi Aqua-shopper

First of all, don't be depressed! Actually buying a gemstone and then finding a setting AND getting it right first time is a bit like painting the Mona Lisa with your first paint set! Ok, well not quite that difficult but you've launched into the deep end! So, let's see if we can help with a few basics:-

1. The reason for buying the stone first is that you need a setting that fits within a couple of mm in all directions for the setting UNLESS you go custom. Most settings (as you've probably discovered) are for calibrated gemstones i.e. 10 x 8, 9 x 7, 6 x 4 etc etc. However, when you buy loose gemstones they're typically something like 10.8 x 8.2 or an odd number like that. In SOME settings, a tolerance of up to .5mm may work but it can be risky. For tension settings, there is very very little tolerance. Not only do you have to think about length and width but depth CAN play a part in picking a setting. Some coloured gemstones will have a big bum! That may mean (depending on the setting) that the gem will sit higher and the "look" will be different.

2. So, you buy the gem first. You then find a setting. If you buy a 10 x 8 setting for example, you are then limiting yourself as to what gem you can buy. Gems are much more different to find than settings. So start with the gem first.

3. Buying gemstones! Yes, you're right it can be problematic. There are so many variables. It takes a while to become semi-confident in "reading" photos of gemstones. Some people can do it naturally, others struggle. It's a skill just like everything else. My suggestion is that you look for something pleasing to your eye. Colour is the first thing you will see. I know you've suggested Aqua but why limit yourself to that gemstone in a pale blue? Open up the search for all blue gemstones and then you've got a much wider selection to choose from.

4. As this is your first venture into coloured gemstone world, please look first at the vendors list sticky at the top of this forum. Start with them. They also are used to us PS'ers asking lots of questions so I'm sure they'll be only too happy to help. Personally I would start with Gene from Precision Gem because he's always incredibly helpful and his photos are incredibly realistic (probably the most representational I've seen).

5. I would always recommend only buying from a vendor with a good returns policy. It's likely you will make a few mistakes along the way. That's normal but you don't want to blow your budget on a stone you can't return!

6. To help in your search, try to find something online in the colour you're looking for and you can email the vendors. Giving them a colour to work towards is very useful. They will also tell you if your budget will match the colour i.e. if it's realistic. It's quite easy to pick a colour that typically is expensive and forces it out of your price range. So understanding whether that's the case up front is a good idea.

7. If you want honest opinions then post photos on here. People will be able to advise whether something is well cut, has a window, is a good price etc. If you do this then make sure you anonymise the photos otherwise it could be snatched from under you by another keen buyer.

8. Once you have the stone and measurements, finding a setting will be the easy part!!!!

9. At the end of the day, buy what you like and only if it's attractive TO YOU.

 

[aqua_shopper]

Ok all, after doing more research here is what I've come up with...

I know you mentioned to only show the photos, but the photos have a watermark, so its kind of a moot point, I'll run the risk of someone snatching it up...

Here is the Gem I was looking at:
http://www.africagems.com/aquamarine-ja1638.html

and here is the type of setting I was looking to compliment it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSHION-Cut-9x11mm-Real-14K-WHITE-GOLD-3ct-DIAMOND-Engagement-SEMI-MOUNT-RING-/270851631870?pt=US_Fine_Rings&hash=item3f1003eafe#ht_10280wt_1392

I'm finding it difficult to estimate aquas, because the value seems to vary drastically despite everyone claiming they are natural, without inclusions, etc.

Thoughts?

 

[innerkitten]

I think the stone is nice but not super amazing. It would look nice set and obviously it's a good size. Actually it's large enough so that it might not be super comfy for everyday wear. I know with myself I can't wear a large ring all the time. But that's just me.

 

[innerkitten]

Just want to add that I am not an aquamarine expert and there may be others here that know more than I do.

 

[innerkitten]

I like the setting. It does look like one of the Tiffany & co settings.

I just did a search on that site and it looks like that is the only long cushion in that size range. Is the price of shipping high? What are returns like? Maybe if you could see the stone.

 

[innerkitten]

I promise to stop posting in a minute.
Have you looked at this page?
http://www.gemfix.com/aquamarine.html

 

[aqua_shopper]

Yeah, I saw the site, but that was one I was disappointed in the photos of the gems. Many had visible flaws but the comments say to ignore them, and they aren't visible to the eye. Sounds suspicious.

 

[distracts]

Yeah, I saw the site, but that was one I was disappointed in the photos of the gems. Many had visible flaws but the comments say to ignore them, and they aren't visible to the eye. Sounds suspicious.

You have to remember that the pictures of the gems are usually at least ten times the size of the actual gems, often more like 20-30x. Even the big gems you are looking at will be under an inch, and generally under half an inch in every direction. So inclusions that look very obvious in the photographs will be not at all obvious to the naked eye. Try resizing the picture until the gem is life-size (if you take a ruler to your screen) and see if you can see the inclusions. The vendors on the recommended list are there because many PSers have had good experiences with them and feel they are generally trustworthy. That doesn't mean they're foolproof, but they're there for a reason.

 

[chrono]

The aquamarine on Africagems, while nice, does not look particularly outstanding. The one on Gemfix looks more saturated if their colour accuracy is spot on. Gemstones are teeny tiny things and photography is magnified to allow the viewer to see the facets clearly and etc. It has been blown up so greatly that it is almost equivalent to seeing the stone under 10x loupe or greater.

You probably prefer the blue one but I like the 3.62 ct greenish blue New Age cut, stock #534. I don't mind my aqua to have a slight green modifier.

I also noticed that you are planning to wear this everyday? If so, I do not recommend it. Beryls (aquamarines) do have a decent hardness of Moh 7.5 but unfortunately, is also rather brittle, meaning it is more prone to chipping. It doesn't mean it isn't a suitable stone for a ring, only that it is not a good idea to wear it everyday.

Most of my gemstone purchases have been online transactions. Only buy from those with a review period and return window of opportunity. This is why there is a Recommended Vendor sticky on PS - it is safe to purchase from those who made the list as many PSers have had nothing but good experiences in terms of vendor honesty and customer service.

 

[LD]

Please don't worry about inclusions. Inclusions are a very good way to identify that a gemstone is natural - think of them as nature's scars! The only time they may become a worry is if they spoil the "look" OR they affect the integrity of the stone. As others have said, don't rule out gems because of inclusions. Eye clean is ok but not expected in many coloured gemstones. Having a flawless gem is not something most coloured gemstone enthusiasts insist.

The gem you have selected from Africa Gem will fit your chosen setting - the one from Gemfix will too. However, you're trying to compare photos taken by two different vendors, presumably using different lighting systems, cameras and you don't know how much they have adjusted the balance of the final photos. It's probably fair to assume that in real life the gems will be slightly lighter/darker. What you CAN tell from the photos is the cut. My preference is for the Gemfix one but only because I like the placement of the facets better - it's more pleasing to my eye but beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

May I ask if you've actually seen an aquamarine in person? The majority are a bluey grey and are a bit cold looking. Putting it in white gold will enhance its icyness (not sure that's a word)! Will this go with your fiance's skintone? Does she prefer pastel colder colours or warmer richer colours in general? Most people prefer one or the other. So before you pull the trigger my suggestion is that you take a sneaky look at her wardrobe and existing jewellery to get a feel for her preference.