shape
carat
color
clarity

Does a bezel setting change and/or decrease light return?

Would a black zirconium ring work better for the same style of ring? If not, any other materials to be considered?

If you don't like yellow gold, you still have a few options:

(1) Black rhodium plating (e.g. the ring above) will bring out the pop. Just make sure you request a black rhodium alloyed with ruthenium (Ru). It is more durable and creates a darker black than other alloys which tend to be more gray.

(2) Solder a silver halo around the diamond and oxidize it. The dark color and inherently matte or satiny finish will bring out the contrast. You frequently see this in Georgian-inspired designs.

FWIW, black rhodium is glossy and oxidized silver is matte. The matte will further enhance contrast.

(3) Use a satin/brushed/sandblast/Florentine or otherwise matte finishing in whatever white metal you are using. the texture will both darken the metal a bit and enhance contrast (non-reflective metal next to the shiny diamond). I highly recommend a matte finish even if you use black rhodium on top of it, as polished finishes still reflect back white light, no matter what color they are.

(4) Black Zirconium could create a nice contrast, but it is very hard to work with. A tension setting would be possible for sure, but I don't think a burnished setting (as pictured) or bezel setting can be executed in black zirconium. I think Bruce Boone would be the person to talk to if you are considering this option.
 
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Also take into account skin allergies. Some folks do titanium bc that's all they can tolerate.

I'm aware of allergies to Nickel (commonly alloyed with white gold in some countries), but are there allergies to other alloys as well?

On that note, I recently heard that nickel in alloys used for jewelry is illegal in some places (like Australia) for the reason you mentioned. These places are using palladium white gold, which is whiter and hypoallergenic (and more expensive).
 
If you don't like yellow gold, you still have a few options:

(1) Black rhodium plating (e.g. the ring above) will bring out the pop. Just make sure you request a black rhodium alloyed with ruthenium (Ru). It is more durable and creates a darker black than other alloys which tend to be more gray.

(2) Solder a silver halo around the diamond and oxidize it. The dark color and inherently matte or satiny finish will bring out the contrast. You frequently see this in Georgian-inspired designs.

FWIW, black rhodium is glossy and oxidized silver is matte. The matte will further enhance contrast.

(3) Use a satin/brushed/sandblast/Florentine or otherwise matte finishing in whatever white metal you are using. the texture will both darken the metal a bit and enhance contrast (non-reflective metal next to the shiny diamond). I highly recommend a matte finish even if you use black rhodium on top of it, as polished finishes still reflect back white light, no matter what color they are.

(4) Black Zirconium could create a nice contrast, but it is very hard to work with. A tension setting would be possible for sure, but I don't think a burnished setting (as pictured) or bezel setting can be executed in black zirconium. I think Bruce Boone would be the person to talk to if you are considering this option.

Thanks for your input. I have talked with Bruce a lot over the past week. I have decided on a diagonal cut tension ring made out of black zirconium. I will be posting pics in the bling forum when it arrives.
 
Thanks for your input. I have talked with Bruce a lot over the past week. I have decided on a diagonal cut tension ring made out of black zirconium. I will be posting pics in the bling forum when it arrives.

Excited to see it!
 
I work for a spine clinic, and yes, the French-cuts remind me of vertebral bodies.
A spectacular and thoughtful ring that stayed in my memory. Is it a Yoram collab? The diamonds are fabulous.
 
I work for a spine clinic, and yes, the French-cuts remind me of vertebral bodies.
A spectacular and thoughtful ring that stayed in my memory. Is it a Yoram collab? The diamonds are fabulous.

Good eye! Nobody cuts diamonds like @diagem! ;)2 Yes. It's a modern Eightfold Cushion flanked by Yoram's French-cut calibre suites. Wearable fireworks :lol-2:
 
@Dr_Diesel I'm glad you're posting again.

You have such awesome and distinctive taste.
So masculine! :dance:

Awwww! Thank you, Kenny! :kiss2:

I've been on a hiatus for too long....and I miss you guys!
 
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