Evaluating Online Photos, Vol 2

[LD]

LovingDiamond, exactly what do you want to see? I figured a way around the watermark they care about as well but will still work. But I will not take any good images and post them in this manner though, sorry, but I will take quick dirty ones. But not sure what you want to see?

Errrrr, no! You have given us some advice as to how to improve photos but what I'd like to see is before and after photos i.e. this is what happens if ...... but if you do this then ............ That would be incredibly useful. For example, I see many people shade their gems with their hand when taking photos. When I've done that, what I get is a highly vibrant stone that does not represent what I see - therefore I don't do it as it's not a true representation of what I see. What I don't understand is how you can shade something and it looks better - it seems an anomoly to me. I'd love to see examples and understand why this happens.

Other tips such as "when you look at Vendor's photos look for these characteristics......" (with examples). Words really don't help if the reader is a photographic numpty and I certainly struggle to take in all the technical detail!

I hope you don't mind me also putting my two pennyworth in about Michael E. I really do feel that it's completely unfair that you call him a troll. He's one of the very few experts that gives his thoughts and advice freely. He's never rude. Always polite even when trying to understand other points of view. I have no idea who you are (apologies) or what relationship you may/may not have had with certain Vendors on this board but Michael is highly regarded because of his selfless giving of information, helpful posts and witty comments. There's room for all experts and advice! Your posts are most welcome also - you are a mine of information and I certainly have learned from reading some of them so please keep them coming - but please add photos or use examples from the internet or ANYTHING to help us understand!!!!

 

[JewelFreak]

I second LD's request a thousand percent. It would be SO helpful! May take a lot of your time, for which I apologize, but if you can manage it, you'd sure help a lot of gemsite web crawlers.

--- Laurie

 

[GemPendants]

What keyword to search for DD's pictures? He said he used his real name, but what is his real name (not DD, is it)?

 

[chrono]

What keyword to search for DD's pictures? He said he used his real name, but what is his real name (not DD, is it)?

It is in his signature.
Jamey Swisher, R.G.
Research Gemologist
Registered Gemologist
Photographer/Author/Collector/Lapidarist/Metalsmith/Wire Worker
Mason-Dixon Rock, Mineral, Gemological, & Lapidary Club President
GemsByJennifer

 

[GemPendants]

What keyword to search for DD's pictures? He said he used his real name, but what is his real name (not DD, is it)?

It is in his signature.
Jamey Swisher, R.G.
Research Gemologist
Registered Gemologist
Photographer/Author/Collector/Lapidarist/Metalsmith/Wire Worker
Mason-Dixon Rock, Mineral, Gemological, & Lapidary Club President
GemsByJennifer

Thank you, Chrono! I found his pictures on Flickr, including the one in his avatar. Some shots are really nice.

 

[arjunajane]

What keyword to search for DD's pictures? He said he used his real name, but what is his real name (not DD, is it)?

It is in his signature.
Jamey Swisher, R.G.
Research Gemologist
Registered Gemologist
Photographer/Author/Collector/Lapidarist/Metalsmith/Wire Worker
Mason-Dixon Rock, Mineral, Gemological, & Lapidary Club President
GemsByJennifer

Thank you, Chrono! I found his pictures on Flickr, including the one in his avatar. Some shots are really nice.

to be honest, after all the ranting and raving..I wasn't that impressed *shrugs*
But I guess like anything else, gem photog is a personal taste.

ETA: to be fair - I should add the insect ones were impressive, however I'm referring to the gem ones though, which is what this discussion was about.

 

[chrono]

All the pictures are well taken, clear and detailed. Of course, some gems are of better quality than others. However, merely viewing these pictures without an explanation of lighting, lenses, shutter speed, and etc, doesn't help anyone learn how to detect photoshopping or untampered pictures.

 

[digitaldevo]

First I have no doubts Michael may be helpful to you but all has done to me in this thread from the beginning is troll me looking for an argument, making snide belittling comments, insinuations, and quite aggressive. I'm sorry you can't see that but many others have trust me and it is why trade participation is declining drastically with no new coming in, sadly. The entire thing was uncalled for and unwarranted. When all he had to do was that simple Google search and everything is and was there for him and everyone and Anyone to see and read. But enough of that.

What you are asking is a rather in-depth setup which would take a normal photog some time to setup and do, but will take this crippled one far longer. But I will do my best to try. I already made up some diagrams of common lighting setups and will upload then when het on my pc, using my EVO currently. Also, dofmaster .com or .org forget off hand has a nice tool to understand how aperture works hand in hand with light and with shutter speed. I have a better link I need to find it on my pc that aol allow you to plug in different settings and see how they affect the sample image. Works nicely to show how exposure alone can pos or neg effect an image.

See if wasn't hard tones the shots. Keep in mind not all of them are the top quality ones. Not going to bother snapping top quality of a $30-$40 stone as a waste of time. Also extremely difficult to do images of stones weighing under .25ct and .10ct. It is obvious which ones show what I can do when it is worth my while to do so, lol. My time for my Wife maybe free but her time helping me costs her money for every minute I take. So I, even when shooting the good ones, take 2-3 pics tops per stone and from pic to editing to internet ready takes me less then 5-6mins per shot. The quickest are like 2mins or so from shot to finish ready for web.

I will get the lighting diagrams up when get on my pc. But many of those are nothing but a diffused 50w halogen desk lamp with stone on a piece of white Lexan and shooting hand held, like the nice colored zircons.

But I am working on the info and samples.

P.S. many of those pics are also taken with either a $70 p&s or a slightly higher end ~$150 p&s cameras with no fancy dSLR nor fancy macro lenses. It says on right side what was used to take the shots.

 

[Jeffrey Hunt]

Hi Everyone! This topic has developed quite a bit since I posted very early in the thread, and I think I can help a bit by posting a short article I wrote last month. The article is the beginning of a series of tutorials and discussions. I use the word tutorial in a very broad sense, because I'll mostly be describing my own methods, not a definitive step-by-step approach.

I hope a few people can benefit from my description and use of diffusion media - I've already seen improvement from this one article in a few other shots I've seen online.

I know most here do not have a lighting set up like I describe below, (keep in mind I describe it as "Mickey Mouse") but I think you may still glean a few hints here and there.

There are many great gem photographers - a number right here on Pricescope - each with a unique approach and priorities. Enjoy!

Jeffrey Hunt



Diffusion Media

Quite often while shooting gemstones the resulting light reflection will give a burned or very hot look to the stone and will produce overexposed facets in the photograph. I find this happens a bit more on lighter gems as opposed to dark ones but with light or dark stones I use almost exclusively some type of diffusion media on each and every one of my shots.
Color is King in the colored gemstone world and I suppose you could describe lighting as the Queen in photography. There are many variables. Lighting boxes, tents, reflectors, mirrors, photo surfaces, lighting control, color temperature, camera sensors – you name it, the list is long. To keep things simple this is a discussion of one small item. Diffusion, and although I have numerous approaches to controlling light and diffusion this is specifically just one type or method that I have been regularly using.

My photo set up can be best described as “Mickey Mouse” I suppose, literally held together with duct tape and broken clamps. I’m not a professional photographer and even so my guess is that this is the norm in the field. I do not have a regular set up, but compose the shot for almost each and every stone I shoot – they are all different. That said, with experience, I have learned a few short cuts. I also do not really care what it takes to get a good shot, as long as the shot is good, and honest to the stone.
I imagine that many cutters who want to market stones online with a photo set up will gravitate to a one look solution. This can be an advantage to the feel of your product and website. Look around at various sites and you will see a range of backgrounds and techniques. The disadvantage is a general photo set up will not work with all stones all the time. I try to utilize this to the maximum in my own personal work. I’ll experiment with different backdrops and lighting arrangements until I find the look that best, to my eye, showcases the stone.
The bulk of my photography is currently done with four lights, although I have recently found a need to add a fifth – my next improvement. I sometimes use a diffusion cone (developed from the “ubiquitos” cut up milk jug that found it’s way to other photography websites – that’s a different discussion), and with or without the cone, four different sheets of clearprint, one for each light. Sometimes the use of the clearprint varies but generally the clearprint drafting paper is taped right on to the lighting instrument – sometimes simply dangling in front of it. Needless to say do not catch the paper on fire, I’ve come close.
So is this diffusion good or bad? I generally find I use it more often than not. There are modifications too. A small circle can be cut right in the center of the paper, permitting a hotter bit of light to come through, this is a trick used in the theatre to soften the edges of a particular light on stage. I’m lucky that I live within a few miles of Pixar Studios, right next to Pixar is a theatrical supply company with probably fifty or more different options for theatrical diffusion gel, from various companies. One sheet measures roughly 18 x 30 inches and will cost in the range of $7-$10. I look forward to experimenting with these different media. There really is quite an amazing range of control possibilities here. No secrets. I’ll report any great finds on these pages, unless someone beats me to it.
The use of diffusion is not complicated or mysterious; it’s simply a way to control the quality of the lighting. Who hasn’t considered a cloudy or sunny day outdoors for capturing that perfect gem shot? Clouds could be considered a large diffusion screen. Of course most everyday diffusion solutions can alter color temperature – again another discussion.
Clearprint is a specific brand drafting paper. I have used this quite well as a projection surface on stage in the past and it’s designed to transmit light when producing blueline prints of drawings. It is fairly efficient for softening lighting and a low-tech solution as well. I believe you can buy it by the sheet at almost any art store. I’m sure there are also other substitutes, only limited by your creativity. (Watch for color shift though.)
Don’t force this to work for you, but do give it a quick try at least, start with what’s practical and what’s on hand. Do not chase the tech specs, simply look at your finished photo and decide if this one small diffusion option improves your shots and continue on from there.