GF’s hand forged E ring - wonky or is it me?

[alltheseices]

So from a real world perspective - the practical difference in strength between forged and cast metal is analogous to deciding whether to buy a mack anthem or a mack granite for your weekly Costco run. There are differences between them, for sure, but those differences have absolutely no impact on you in terms of longevity, wear and tear, or maintenance needs.

Some designs do benefit more from one method of manufacture over the other - in those cases there arguments to be made (on both sides) for aesthetics and/vs. durability. But for your design, the strength consideration is really a zippo differential.

Pieces that are cast in several parts and assembled (by a good jeweller!) have the advantages of both precision construction and hand-loved finish.

Now if method of construction is important to you for emotional or sentimental reasons, which you said is part of it, that is definitely very valid and very relevant! I could see someone like Canera doing well with a linear and angular design like this.

I greatly appreciate all of the above, and it wasn’t for the sentimental aspect I would totally be on board with having it cast.

VC was my first choice as I like that he participates in the discussions on these forums and his style as it were seems well suited to what I have in mind. Only problem is the center stone had to be purchased from him and I already had the emerald. Same is true for LM I learned.

 

[alltheseices]

Maybe I can see what you mean in this image where the right side is a different angle than the left or somehow bigger?

Correct; one side is significantly smaller than the other. And both sides have lines that are off in various ways.

 

[newtojewels]

I greatly appreciate all of the above, and it wasn’t for the sentimental aspect I would totally be on board with having it cast.

VC was my first choice as I like that he participates in the discussions on these forums and his style as it were seems well suited to what I have in mind. Only problem is the center stone had to be purchased from him and I already had the emerald. Same is true for LM I learned.

Did you reach out to Victor Canera? He will sometimes set outside stones, especially when it isn't from a direct competitor to one of his branded diamonds.

 

[alltheseices]

You’re right. It’s not symmetrical. It’s not perfect stylistically (bezel of green stone quite heavy, for example, imo). Square shapes where diamonds are nestled are a bit thick and have asymmetries, as do prongs.

Did the designer execute this design or did someone else? I’ve seen this happen on PS before, where a ring from a hand forger/designer was done by someone who works for them. IMO, signs of “stylistic finishing” are absent.

What were you promised? Was there a drawing? Were you offered miligrain, etc. ? The stone and antique diamonds are gorgeous. Metalwork seems heavy and basic (versus sophisticated) for this type of Edwardian/Deco style ring that is intended to be an heirloom.

IMO like Yssie says above, this style of ring could likely be done in a partially or fully cast manner, and that might allow for a more delicate structure and perfect symmetry. Hand forging not absolutely necessary, but I do like the meaning it represents that you articulated.

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Here’s a link to hand forger Gary Roe who I believe “finishes” well.
Check out his work. He’s able to produce “finely” even when he hand forges, for example very delicate bezels like this.

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This is Leon Mege. His symmetry is excellent, prongs excellent and finished in a consistent way, bezels are delicate. Prongs holding the diamonds on the cathedral sides are almost invisible, nestled into a delicate frame.

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I’m glad I am not the only seeing this!

I presume the designer did the work but maybe I shouldn’t? When I received the ring I felt like ok the bezel and the baguettes look good but who was this handed off to for the OEC’s?

As for what I was promised, that is really the heart of the matter. I received a partially complete CAD drawing which depicted the ring one way, and what I received is quite different with regard to the area of the ring in question . I would actually be ok with this if the ring was done well around the OEC’s but in my heart (and using my eyeballs) I feel it wasn’t. It also bugged me that when I questioned the jeweler about the partial CAD and registered my discomfort with continuing without having hammered out those exact details he just promised me “it would be done right and he would make me the ring I wanted.” :/ I was offered milgrain but declined.

Thank you for the links to Gary Roe and LM. I tried LM early on but apparently the stone must be bought from him.

 

[alltheseices]

Did you reach out to Victor Canera? He will sometimes set outside stones, especially when it isn't from a direct competitor to one of his branded diamonds.

I did but I didn’t speak with him directly. I will gladly circle back!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Correct; one side is significantly smaller than the other. And both sides have lines that are off in various ways.

Do you have calipers to measure? Will help your case.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I also think that this design can be easily made with casting methods with little reason not to go that route IMO if you end up going with a complete re-do.

 

[Mooshi]

I think it's gorgeous, and value hand made things and their little not-quite-perfect features personally (not that I am seeing anything less than perfect in this ring, I'm not). If I wanted something perfect I would have gone with a CAD design and casting.

 

[LightBright]

Two other jewelers that do hand forged that you can check out on Pricescope (search for their work there are many examples) are Maytal Hannah and Steven Kirsch. I think both are also on Instagram. This is to see examples of hand forged work.

I personally have a hand forged Deco ring that is indeed asymmetrical as well. It has miligrain and diamond melee that outshines any small imperfections so I do not notice when wearing it.