Help deciding on custom engagement ring designer

[ablackb3rry]

I placed a bunch of quotes for a custom twisted vine engagement ring and having trouble deciding between two companies. The ring is platinum, with a pave band, and a hidden halo. I have included some photos.




Ritani wants $2640 for the ring, but provides a 30 day return policy, one free resize within a year, a free appraisal, and lifetime cleanings and maintenance. The ring is manufactured in New York.

Loosegrowndiamonds.com wants $1,627.50 for the ring. The ring is manufactured overseas in India and only a 7 day return policy is offered, with the normal maintenance warranty. No cleanings, resizing, or appraisal.


I'm not sure if it's worth an additional $1,000 for American made with a better warranty. Customer service for both companies seems good. Any help would be appreciated. Also if you have any thoughts on the ring design too that would be great!

 

[Petalouda]

I would also ask some of the custom designers such as Maytal Hannah, Steven Kirsch, and David Klaas for quotes. You’ll get a product with stellar workmanship. David Klaas will also send you CADs before he makes your ring and you can approve the design or ask for changes. I haven’t worked with him personally but from others who have, it seems his pricing his extremely competitive. I know some Ritani settings had some quality issues that were posted in the LG forum. Good luck!

 

[holeydonut]

Personally, I’d hit up victor canera… he has a twist/braide in his portfolio already.

Victor Canera

victorcanera.com

 

[ablackb3rry]

Thanks for the recommendation, does anyone know how much Victor Canera settings normally cost? I guess the nice thing about the options I listed is I'm going for a lab diamond and the diamond and setting are purchased from the same place

 

[Petalouda]

Thanks for the recommendation, does anyone know how much Victor Canera settings normally cost? I guess the nice thing about the options I listed is I'm going for a lab diamond and the diamond and setting are purchased from the same place

His designs tend to run higher price wise than the other designers mentioned but it never hurts to ask. Just FYI, he sometimes accepts outside stones and other times declines.

 

[Jax172]

Neither. My experience with Ritani setting diamonds was poor and dealing with an overseas maker will be a problem if something doesn’t go well. Go with an actual custom designer/jeweler. There are many favorites here like David Klass, Victor, and a more budget friendly option - Daniel M. I know some have had experiences where he takes a very long time but I’ve only had good experiences with him. He’s not super speedy all the time but I’ve not been disappointed with the settings he has made me.

 

[headlight]

I would definitely not do overseas. As for Ritani not being up to par, it’s a matter of you getting what you pay for. I am sure the recommended people will make a superior product but you will pay for it. Only you can decide if ritani will be good enough. However, after you get other quotes if they are significantly more give the Ritani a chance given there is a 30-day return policy.
As for the design, it’s an individual thing of course. However, I personally think it’s just too much. I think if you like the twist design stick with that. Adding the halo is just too much. Also I don’t think the diamonds on the prongs is necessary. Less is more in my opinion. I think you will ultimately not like the current design over the test of time - it is perfectly fine to reset but keep that in mind. I say keep it timeless by doing the diamond twist and leave it at that. Also will save you some money given it will be a more simplified design.
Honestly on that point, if you are okay with that you can find the mounting without going custom… it just depends on if you need to have custom… there are manufacturers who do quality work.

 

[ablackb3rry]

Thank you everyone this has been super helpful! I have gone ahead and commissioned David Klass to make the ring. He was even cheaper than Ritani and everyone here seems to love him.


As for the design being too noisy. That was something I've been going back and forth on. I really do like the twist and the idea of a hidden halo for it to be sparkly even when viewed from the side, but the center stone is already a large 2.4 carat round diamond. I think removing the pave from the prongs might be the move. There is a worry that not enough metal would be showing so you wouldn't have the nice contrast of diamonds against shiny platinum.

 

[Petalouda]

Thank you everyone this has been super helpful! I have gone ahead and commissioned David Klass to make the ring. He was even cheaper than Ritani and everyone here seems to love him.


As for the design being too noisy. That was something I've been going back and forth on. I really do like the twist and the idea of a hidden halo for it to be sparkly even when viewed from the side, but the center stone is already a large 2.4 carat round diamond. I think removing the pave from the prongs might be the move. There is a worry that not enough metal would be showing so you wouldn't have the nice contrast of diamonds against shiny platinum.

Wonderful! Would love to see the final product when it’s done.

 

[headlight]

So glad you got it all worked out.
Sounds fantastic and I look forward to you posting your beautiful ring!

 

[ablackb3rry]

Not sure if I should hijack this thread or create another one.

Here's the first CAD from DK. The first thing I notice is there's a bit more gapping in the twist. There's two twists presented here rather than the one that then forms into ust a straight shank. Not sure which one looks better so looking for advice.

If I should create a separate design discussion thread, let me know. Thanks everyone

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I have to tell you that I'd definitely alter this design if you think she will wear a wedding band with this ring. The prongs are set so low in the shank (band) and curve out, so the wedding band is going to rub those prongs. That's not good. I'd tell DK to make a round base (we call it a doughnut and then start the prongs on that base. That will raise the head up a bit and help prevent damage to the prongs.

The twisted shank looks fine. Just remember CADs look slightly more bulky than the actual ring.

 

[ablackb3rry]

I have to tell you that I'd definitely alter this design if you think she will wear a wedding band with this ring. The prongs are set so low in the shank (band) and curve out, so the wedding band is going to rub those prongs. That's not good. I'd tell DK to make a round base (we call it a doughnut and then start the prongs on that base. That will raise the head up a bit and help prevent damage to the prongs.

The twisted shank looks fine. Just remember CADs look slightly more bulky than the actual ring.

This is a great idea. Thank you for the suggestion, definitely want her to be able to wear a wedding band.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Okay, here's an example of a ring DK made for a member here and it has a doughnut at the base of the prongs to allow a band to be worn with it. You can show him this picture and explain that the head/basket needs to be lifted up a bit so the prongs don't get damaged by the wedding band.

 

[ablackb3rry]

Okay, here's an example of a ring DK made for a member here and it has a doughnut at the base of the prongs to allow a band to be worn with it. You can show him this picture and explain that the head/basket needs to be lifted up a bit so the prongs don't get damaged by the wedding band.

Thanks, I just heard back from DK and he said that actually the prongs will be cut down and not protrude so a donut won't be necessary.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Thanks, I just heard back from DK and he said that actually the prongs will be cut down and not protrude so a donut won't be necessary.

Well, that doesn't quite make sense to me. I see no way that the wedding band won't rub against the lower part of the prongs if made like those CADs. I also think it would look better to just have a donut the height of the shank. But that's just my preference. We've seen many rings in the past that had problems with bands rubbing the prongs, and I just like to warn people if I see a potential problem.

 

[ablackb3rry]

He said he will draft up a simple pavé band to show how it rests against the engagement ring. I will go ahead and post those when they come in. I'm not well versed in ring design so I'm not super sure what to go with.

 

[distracts]

Well, that doesn't quite make sense to me. I see no way that the wedding band won't rub against the lower part of the prongs if made like those CADs. I also think it would look better to just have a donut the height of the shank. But that's just my preference. We've seen many rings in the past that had problems with bands rubbing the prongs, and I just like to warn people if I see a potential problem.

I'm wondering if because the band curves out, what David means is that the prongs aren't going to protrude farther out than the curves of the band, so they won't be rubbed against? It's hard to tell from the angles in the cad but I think that may be the case.

 

[ablackb3rry]

Here's what was just submitted back to me.

I wonder if I should order a wedding band through DK and just see if it can be made to lock into the twist. I'm not sure if in the future it'll be annoying that the band doesn't sit flush against the twist. It doesn't appear the prongs interfere here though

 

[distracts]

Here's what was just submitted back to me.

I wonder if I should order a wedding band through DK and just see if it can be made to lock into the twist. I'm not sure if in the future it'll be annoying that the band doesn't sit flush against the twist. It doesn't appear the prongs interfere here though

I think a straight band will be fine - you're probably not going to be bothered by the tiiiiiny gaps where the twist indents.

 

[ablackb3rry]

I think a straight band will be fine - you're probably not going to be bothered by the tiiiiiny gaps where the twist indents.

Makes sense. I guess another question is whether or not you think it's worth raising the setting. The prongs don't touch but do look awfully close in that I feel overtime they still might be worn down from taking the ring on and off. I guess in an ideal world a spacer would be used, but I find spacers a bit ugly which is why I've avoided side diamonds anywhere a band would touch.

 

[distracts]

Makes sense. I guess another question is whether or not you think it's worth raising the setting. The prongs don't touch but do look awfully close in that I feel overtime they still might be worn down from taking the ring on and off. I guess in an ideal world a spacer would be used, but I find spacers a bit ugly which is why I've avoided side diamonds anywhere a band would touch.

I personally would not - but other people would. That's up to you. I prefer very low settings and make the trade off that there will be rubbing from the band, and I may eventually after many many years have to reset the center stone, and I'm ok with that. But if you don't mind the head being higher, that trade off may not be worth it to you.

 

[emmy12]

The new CAD looks great to me. I also like low settings and could live with the risk of the band touching the prongs over a very long time, or I believe I'd you use platnium for prongs and choose a softer "sacrificial" metal for the wedding band (i.e. gold) then the band would wear preferentially instead of the platinum.

Wanted to point out 2 details I noticed so you know that they're present, not because I think they should be changed (I think they're actually very clever)

(1) on the top view the crowns of the hidden halo melee stones juuuust peek out around the center stone to be barely visible from top view.

(2) The way he did the twist on the shank there's an "extra bit" of twist (circled) leading up to where it joins the head. This is a small detail that results in the twist pinching in right at the edge of the stone in the top view, which I think is lovely.

 

[tyty333]

Makes sense. I guess another question is whether or not you think it's worth raising the setting. The prongs don't touch but do look awfully close in that I feel overtime they still might be worn down from taking the ring on and off. I guess in an ideal world a spacer would be used, but I find spacers a bit ugly which is why I've avoided side diamonds anywhere a band would touch.

I would not raise the setting. If anything you would make the "donut" a little bigger to hold off the wedding band but I don't think
it's necessary. YMMV

 

[ablackb3rry]

Thanks everyone for the advice! I think I'll go ahead and approve these designs. I won't raise the setting as to avoid making the ring a bit more unwieldy. I also agree with Emmy that the twist pinching around the stone is a very nice touch. I'm unsure about the hidden halo poking through as I don't want it to make the diamond look less round, but I like the uniqueness it brings to the piece.

 

[Inked]

Please post when you have it completed! I love David's work, he's remaking my setting right now too (i upgraded my center and it doenst fit anymore LOL). David also made my wedding band - he's amazing.

I'd love to see the finished ring when you have it!

 

[Rfisher]

Not an expert, but can only speak from my DKJ experience
Something ‘peeking out’ from below the center stone on a CAD doesn’t automatically mean it will do so in the final product.
I do think if it’s something you definitely want to see or definitely do not want to see - it’s worth mentioning to them so they can proceed appropriately to make that happen.

 

[ablackb3rry]

The glamor shots have just come in and it's so surreal to see this completed ring after getting so many quotes and going through the design process. I'm just a bit speechless that this journey is coming to an end. Anyways here's the photos please critique them so I can make any adjustments, the thing I'm most concerned about is the prongs as something does feel slightly off about the alignment but I can't quite put my finger on it.

 

[emmy12]

Hmmmmm do all the prong tips point at the middle of the diamond? That might be what is off....
ETA: ...or could be the angle the photo is taken at (not dead on, slightly above)

 

[ablackb3rry]

Yeah the angle possibly causes me to second guess myself as well. For example these don't look symmetric, but is that also a visual anomaly?