Help me design a diamond pendant with a CS halo please!

[LilAlex]

OK, on review, I really like the current clasp -- especially the back -- and can't bear to sideline it. I'm sure these are decent pearls knowing the source and the original owner; however, I suspect they are "contractor grade" compared to the Pearls subforum of @yssie et al here. (And these are of course the ones closest to the clasp.)

 

[voce]

and edit to add, @voce:

That is a remarkably illustrated explanation -- thank you! Definitely wish you could have helped me with my problem sets in physics!

I was the type of person to spend as little time working with others on problem sets as possible in college. Shortly after I left college, I did try tutoring AP Physics only to find out I'm not particularly good at explaining it! Let's leave that to the physics majors haha.

 

[yssie]

OK, on review, I really like the current clasp -- especially the back -- and can't bear to sideline it. I'm sure these are decent pearls knowing the source and the original owner; however, I suspect they are "contractor grade" compared to the Pearls subforum of @yssie et al here. (And these are of course the ones closest to the clasp.)

I love this clasp . Perfect for this double strand. I’m glad you won’t be taking this one apart

 

[LilAlex]

Not ridiculous at all! I tried turning my ring into a pendant…hope this visual helps!

Oh you literally just did this! Thank you! I thought it was Photoshop until, on a second look, I saw the shadows. At least four lights in that room.

That is very helpful and I love the look!

And maybe this will catch on...

 

[Eli22]

Oh you literally just did this! Thank you! I thought it was Photoshop until, on a second look, I saw the shadows. At least four lights in that room.

That is very helpful and I love the look!

And maybe this will catch on...

Haha yes, I did it the old-school way (threaded a chain through the ring and balanced the shank on my chest)

I just had to go check the room I snapped the shot in! You’re right- 4 recessed lights in that room!

Glad I could help with my low-tech mockup!

 

[emmy12]

OK, on review, I really like the current clasp -- especially the back -- and can't bear to sideline it. I'm sure these are decent pearls knowing the source and the original owner; however, I suspect they are "contractor grade" compared to the Pearls subforum of @yssie et al here. (And these are of course the ones closest to the clasp.)

I also love the current clasp and wouldn't change it! Looking forward to seeing what this project becomes.

 

[autumngems]

I think that getting custom cut sapphires for a target ring or doing a double halo would cost just as much as a larger sapphire, which is much simpler to set. Not sure a single halo with smaller sapphires would really satisfy you lol. Instead of a pear sapphire swing beneath a bezel diamond, I think the pendant shape would be far more elegant and eye-catching if the diamond swings underneath a sapphire instead. I hope a picture is worth a thousand words, even a bad picture. I can't really draw chainlink.

Like this idea

 

[LilAlex]

Like this idea

Uh oh. Battle of the autumns. I'm reeling, @autumngems and @Autumn in New England.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Uh oh. Battle of the autumns. I'm reeling, @autumngems and @Autumn in New England.

 

[autumngems]

 

[LilAlex]

Sometimes tapered baguettes, for instance, can absolutely look like crooked teeth, if done incorrectly

Like this otherwise-pretty semi-mount...



It just bugs me. I mean maybe there are a bunch of light sources but it seems like the step cuts' tables should all be "coplanar." Maybe it's even more obvious because they are not French cuts with their tiny tables.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Like this otherwise-pretty semi-mount...



It just bugs me. I mean maybe there are a bunch of light sources but it seems like the step cuts' tables should all be "coplanar." Maybe it's even more obvious because they are not French cuts with their tiny tables.

This is a good example of, let's say, a person comparing prices of similar parcels of gems. All looks equal, but one parcel has a much better price. A newbie may think they scored (and indeed that's a possibility). But then they receive this, and are none the wiser. That is where folks like Inken, for instance, come in. She may charge a bit more, but she'd never allow a tapered baguette halo out of her studio like that.

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,
I did just spend a little time checking facts. I agree that the Art-Deco jewelry period outshines the other periods. That being said a few days ago I came across Mrs B's new locket. It had a diamond of 1.25 in the center, but had enameling for the body of the locket. Enameling was popular during the Art-Deco period with blue, green, red and black being used most often. The enameling gives a geometric look to the locket (which is not a heart). Please take a look at Mrs B enameled locket.

I believe you have a couple of daughters and a wife who might like a blue enameled locket from Dad, of course with his photo so that they may keep it close to their hearts. Nothing nicer to me, than a father giving a daughter a locket.

Sorry that I don't know how to show you her locket.


Annette

 

[LilAlex]

I agree that the Art-Deco jewelry period outshines the other periods. That being said a few days ago I came across Mrs B's new locket. It had a diamond of 1.25 in the center, but had enameling for the body of the locket.

That's a cool idea for sure, @smitcompton! Maybe @mrs-b can indulge me...?

I have always loved the guilloche enamel dials on some fancy watches. (I will never have one of those).




I see these examples of diamond/enamel pendants and lockets and I love the look of the guilloche.

Sadly, no one in my family will ever wear a picture of me in a locket! DDs have other men in mind!

But these are pretty examples. I have no idea how to go about getting one of these "made." I know the "engines" for this engraving process are disappearing fast.

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,

Aren't your examples beautiful.? The locket has more presence than what you were looking to do. Mrs B explains the process she went thru in her post about it I'l go to hangout and ask her to put her info into your thread.

Annette

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,

It was Jewel of the week of Jan 16, and heading something like My emerald green pendent with AVR diamond. You can probably find it with that info. Its also in the Show me the Bling section. It looks nice and may be cheaper than what you planned to do. White metals are used in Art-deco, including sterllng silver. At any rate it just another choice to mix you up.

Do not under estimate a daughters love for a good father. You can share one side and the new love gets the other side.

Annette

 

[mrs-b]

Hallo.

I LOVE enamel and have collected it periodically all my life. My 'Joy' bracelet is one of my 'you have 3 pieces of jewelry to save in a fire' jewelry pieces, but when I did my latest locket, I wanted that textured look that comes from working the surface, which changes the depth of the enamel depending on the surface. I don't believe it was incredibly difficult, and Amy from DKJ was able to hook me up without any problems. I think they recently switched enamelers, and their new guy seems better than the previous fellow.

Here's 2 photos to show the stark difference putting a pattern on the metal makes. Personally, I love both - but they're very different looks.

And just so people don't think I'm talking my jewelry up or being purposely misleading about my pieces - the central diamond in the green locket is a .95 E VS2 AVR. The locket, just btw, is currently being tweaked to remove the yellow gold bail. The yellow gold bezel is staying.

#JOTW - Enamel locket with AVR center

Just a few quick photos of my new enamel locket from DKJ. It's 1.25 x .75" on sterling silver with a gorgeous .95 E VS2 AVR from Distinctive Gems. I picked up the 20" chain on Etsy and am going back and forth about the yellow gold detail - the yellow gold bezel and the yellow gold bail at the...

www.pricescope.com

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,

Thanks Mrs B. I'm sure LilAlex will love your comments. I love whatt you did. Thanks for replying.

Annette

 

[LilAlex]

Do not under estimate a daughters love for a good father. You can share one side and the new love gets the other side.

Who said anything about "good"? I can't over-estimate it either!

Social experiment: if I get three or more LOVEs for this post, I will ask and screenshot and share the answer right here (perhaps edited for profanity!)

And thank you, @mrs-b -- that is gorgeous and I do remember seeing it now! Would not have crossed my mind that somebody could just make one of those on request. But, maybe it's easier for me to source killer-blue glass powder than sapphire! That lattice pattern does look lovely as a backdrop for a RBC!

 

[mrs-b]

Who said anything about "good"? I can't over-estimate it either!

Social experiment: if I get three or more LOVEs for this post, I will ask and screenshot and share the answer right here (perhaps edited for profanity!)

And thank you, @mrs-b -- that is gorgeous and I do remember seeing it now! Would not have crossed my mind that somebody could just make one of those on request. But, maybe it's easier for me to source killer-blue glass powder than sapphire! That lattice pattern does look lovely as a backdrop for a RBC!

You're welcome! One question tho - my mind's a blank; what is an RBC?

 

[LilAlex]

what is an RBC?

Red blood cell. But here it's round brilliant cut, I think?

 

[mrs-b]

Red blood cell. But here it's round brilliant cut, I think?

Ok, the red blood cell thing made me laugh!

Normally, I think modern round brilliant (and a round brilliant isn't necessarily modern - which I believe refers specifically to a Tolkowsky) is more common, but the center diamond in the pendant is actually cut in the OEC - old European cut - style, rather than an MRB.

Why I put a $7k diamond in a sterling silver locket is a mystery that will forever escape me. I do think it's pretty, tho.

Blue enamel is my favorite. GORGEOUS - and very era-appropriate, if you're looking for something with an art nouveau feel. Or Georgian, for that matter. I will be SO interested to see your project progress!

 

[LilAlex]

...but the center diamond in the pendant is actually cut in the OEC - old European cut - style, rather than an MRB.

Yes, sorry -- that's what ours is. And I would (could) envision that lattice background for a 15x15mm square-cushion "pillow" of vivid, medium-blue enamel.

 

[mrs-b]

Yes, sorry -- that's what ours is. And I would (could) envision that lattice background for a 15x15mm square-cushion "pillow" of vivid, medium-blue enamel.

Good grief, that would be gorgeous.

 

[smitcompton]

Hi,

I'm no longer going to speak about those other two females that you used to live with. They are banished from discussion. I am unable to hear curse words. I'm very old and allergic to profanity.
OK, what does your spouse think of a locket made with blue enamel. I hope she still likes you, a little.
Choose wisely. Choose what you love.
I am sorely tempted to make one. Get enough blue for me too.

Annette

 

[LilAlex]

Social experiment: if I get three or more LOVEs for this post, I will ask and screenshot and share the answer right here (perhaps edited for profanity!)

Uh oh -- four loves! Now I gotta ask! (Well, I had to at three but thought I could slink away -- until the last one, which was throwing own the gauntlet.)

@smitcompton, DDs would not swear in a mean way -- just in a charming "wtf?" way. Not sure my spouse's reaction would be any different, tbh!

 

[LilAlex]

OK, am I nuts? (I guess you can answer immediately or, hopefully, continue reading.)

Making a little progress. I am interested in making this octagonal pendant that is 15x15mm and the center diamond is ~ 7.5mm diameter with a halo of French cut sapphires like in an Art Deco ring head (see upthread). The diamond pavilion + girdle is maybe 3.6mm so the pendant can be no narrower than 4+ mm. I wanted a tapered cross section (see second image below) that will angle the plane of the sapphire halo at ~ 20 degrees whereas the professional wants the pendant to be like a "fat coin" instead of my "UFO" design. She is concerned that the UFO shape will be floppy on the neck whereas I am concerned that a 15mm disc that is 4-5mm thick will look inelegant for this otherwise very delicate Deco-evoking construction.

Terrible sketch of the front, courtesy of my kids' leftover Crayola colored pencils (and no, I don't know what diamonds look like). There is only one ring of sapphire baguettes but I shaded the table facet of each a little lighter:



Cross-section with dimensions:



It's obviously easier to make it so that the front and back are flat and parallel -- but at these dimensions, I think it will look too thick for the width. With a thicker chain plus a bale with fewer "degrees of freedom," I am hoping I can tame any floppiness.

Which one of us is crazier? Probably me...

Any other thoughts/ideas...?

 

[Rfisher]

Red Tourmaline, Diamond and Emerald Necklace

Wow! This knockout jewel astounds your senses with an extra-radiant, deep, rich raspberry color, hexagonal step-cut tourmaline (or rubelite) - weighing about 18 carats. The uniquely stunning and vibrant gemstone is triple-framed: first by round brilliant-cut diamonds set in 18 karat yellow gold...

www.langantiques.com

This pendant looks to be flat on the back but the face is not? Is that an option for you?

I would ask your jeweler if their ‘fat coin’ vision is a design choice, or a technical one with considerations to their bench - on preference in setting the calibre cuts on a flat plain I mean.
I think knowing that will help you negotiate or be content?
(I’d definitely want them set angled if at all possible)

The flopping - I think the choice of a different (meaning a non single bail attachment) to chain would solve your having tapered back desire. Sliding or fixed.

Also - if your drawing indicates the center bezel not being that much raised above the calibre cuts - and if this is your wish - pay close attention to what your vendor indicates verbally or via sketch/rendering . Some of these do get to be raised comparatively high.

As I would love to once again have a calibre cut piece and have run into multiple roadblocks and technical issues as being an unknowing guinea pig in the past - would love to know who is doing this for you - if you care to share. Publicly or privately.

 

[LilAlex]

I think knowing that will help you negotiate or be content?
(I’d definitely want them set angled if at all possible)

My sense was that it was both: clearly easier (read: less expensive for me) to set in a "flat halo" vs. my vaguely conical one; and she also felt is would be visually more appealing. I like the idea of the table facets pointing in slightly different directions -- I'd be more likely to see strong blue somewhere whenever I look at it.

As I would love to once again have a calibre cut piece and have run into multiple roadblocks and technical issues as being an unknowing guinea pig in the past - would love to know who is doing this for you - if you care to share. Publicly or privately.

My exact same concerns so I reached out to Inken. (I was not going to use her name until we were further along but it's a fair question.) My highest priority was to avoid so-called commercial-grade sapphire baguettes for the starting material -- I would like fairly vivid blue. Inken knows her sapphire hues and we agreed that this will need to be heated material (gasp) but she could source high-quality true blue. She quoted a pretty wide price range for the project -- within which the biggest factor was the quality of the calibre cuts. As you know from your looking around for a similar concept, even if the price "ceiling" is set by the sapphire quality, there is still a very high "floor" for the price point by the time you factor in all the raw material, lapidary work, back-and-forth between them and the metalsmith, etc. The lapidary work will be challenging -- I would like French cuts for a Deco vibe and that means more weight loss when re-cutting the starting-point baguettes. Maybe I can make a pendant and an emery board.

Inken and I are pretty candid with each other at this point and I asked if this was just too much of a pain in the neck to warrant her pursuing -- and I think it's a close call . She'll need to play a very active role with all those steps above and in sourcing high quality material. (She offered to send the parcel of baguettes to me for my approval but that's a step too far even for me!) I am making these numbers up but shepherding a $10K project is very different from selling a $10K stone.

This project will be expensive (by my standards) and technically challenging but the diamond was "free" -- so I feel like I have some latitude. If I had to buy the diamond new and then add on all the work and materials, it would be impractical for us. (OK, it's not exactly "practical" for us under any circumstances, but the hope is that the beauty justifies the investment expense.) And this is still cheaper than hanging out on a car or truck forum.

EDIT: That is a cool pendant! What a size! I don't think it is flat -- looks like it has a convexity to it on the front but it only shows in one of the "3/4 view" photos. I of course don't want the culet poking out so I will need maybe a mm clearance -- and then I'm already at nearly 5mm thickness for the pendant.

 

[emmy12]

For what it's worth, I like the idea of the halo angled down rather than being flat. Not as convinced about the back also having the UFO angle too... It does seem like it would rock around back and forth. Could you make the back angle slightly different so that the back's base is a bit larger in diameter rather than being totally symmetric top to bottom?