help me understand Victorian classification for earrings?

[MiniMinerva]

Hi everyone! I was wondering if you antique experts on here might be able to help tell me more about these little 14K moonstone earrings that I have a crush on that are classified as Victorian (1880s). I’m pretty new to antique jewelry and I’d love to understand the design elements that suggest they are from this particular time period. Is it the prongs? Shape? Construction? Would they have been handmade? Any info would be much appreciated as I stalk them!

 

[JPie]

The style doesn’t resemble any Victorian earrings or ring settings that I’ve seen. You could try looking in the online archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum to see if there are any similar examples: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections?type=featured

If your search turns up empty, then buy them if you love the style, regardless of whether they’re antique or not.

 

[MiniMinerva]

The style doesn’t resemble any Victorian earrings or ring settings that I’ve seen. You could try looking in the online archives of the Victoria and Albert Museum to see if there are any similar examples: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections?type=featured

If your search turns up empty, then buy them if you love the style, regardless of whether they’re antique or not.

Thank you for sharing that resource! It seems your hunch was right, as I couldn’t find anything in the archives bearing any resemblance to these earrings. They’re being sold by a vendor on the list in the sticky so I could maybe try reaching out to them this week.

Is there anything notable about their construction (regardless of age/period) that you observe based on your experience? I feel I’m still a bit on the fence overall, but antique vs. not wouldn’t necessarily be a dealbreaker.

 

[JPie]

Thank you for sharing that resource! It seems your hunch was right, as I couldn’t find anything in the archives bearing any resemblance to these earrings. They’re being sold by a vendor on the list in the sticky so I could maybe try reaching out to them this week.

Is there anything notable about their construction (regardless of age/period) that you observe based on your experience? I feel I’m still a bit on the fence overall, but antique vs. not wouldn’t necessarily be a dealbreaker.

I’m not educated on jewelry construction so I can’t speak to that.

Asking the dealer is a good idea. Let us know what they say!

 

[Bron357]

In the absence of hallmarks that can confirm date, age or era is usually determined by considering a combination of metal choices, gem cutting style, gem setting style, design features and type of clasp or pin.
Of course certain styles and design features are replicated again and again making it difficult to date ie to determine if actual Georgian or Victorian or simply Georgian or Victorian revival or style.
It should matter except of course it does if a price premium is involved.
Accordingly, unless hallmarks, historic providence or you inherited a piece you know was owned by your great great grandma be mindful it could merely be “in the style of”.

 

[MiniMinerva]

I’m not educated on jewelry construction so I can’t speak to that.

Asking the dealer is a good idea. Let us know what they say!

Thank you! Will do.

In the absence of hallmarks that can confirm date, age or era is usually determined by considering a combination of metal choices, gem cutting style, gem setting style, design features and type of clasp or pin.
Of course certain styles and design features are replicated again and again making it difficult to date ie to determine if actual Georgian or Victorian or simply Georgian or Victorian revival or style.
It should matter except of course it does if a price premium is involved.
Accordingly, unless hallmarks, historic providence or you inherited a piece you know was owned by your great great grandma be mindful it could merely be “in the style of”.

Wow, it all sounds so tricky and I am in awe of those of you with the trained eye for such things! I’ve been tempted to dip a toe into the antique world for a while but it seems quite intimidating even for these small-ticket items sold by trusted vendors (still a price premium, but the absolute amount is relatively small compared to some of the lovely diamond and gemstone pieces I see on here). Maybe I’ll try to find something with hallmarks to start. Thank you for the sage advice!

 

[Lookinagain]

Why not ask the vendor why they say they are Victorian, or not just inspired? And if they can't answer that question, offer them a price that a repro would command, instead of an original, if you don't care about them being truly antique then you have an option.

 

[Snowdrop13]

I’m going to slightly disagree. Those are buttercup settings, I think, which are Victorian. Is there a hallmark on the gold?

 

[MiniMinerva]

Why not ask the vendor why they say they are Victorian, or not just inspired? And if they can't answer that question, offer them a price that a repro would command, instead of an original, if you don't care about them being truly antique then you have an option.

Great idea! I’ll reach out and see what they say. They seem to sell a lot of antique pieces so I would think there would be an explanation, especially since the date was suggested to be 1880s specifically. Regarding making an offer, is this generally acceptable and within social norms for vendors? I would have otherwise been nervous to question pricing, but it would be nice to have an option should there not be an answer to the Victorian question.

I’m going to slightly disagree. Those are buttercup settings, I think, which are Victorian. Is there a hallmark on the gold?

Interesting! I will have to do a deep dive on buttercup settings, which a quick search suggests was indeed common in the late 1800’s? These seem more angular in shape but perhaps they are a subtype? There is no hallmark I can see on the photos and the vendor does not mention one either (the earrings are not in my possession so I can’t inspect further). If there were a hallmark, would there be a likely place where it would be located on earrings? I could ask for detailed photos. They are also reported to be 14K gold rather than 18K, which I’m not sure is or isn’t typical of the time period.

 

[LightBright]

I love the idea of an authentic antique earrings.

I think these might be antique because of the complex buttercup subtly star shape settings.

The high domed shape of the cabochons indicates antique. And the prongs are designed to accentuate the dome. The design suggests Victorian Era to me.

Gold content in Victorian Era, you can Google, was usually 15k and 18k or 9k apparently.

 

[MiniMinerva]

I love the idea of an authentic antique earrings.

I think these might be antique because of the complex buttercup subtly star shape settings.

The high domed shape of the cabochons indicates antique. And the prongs are designed to accentuate the dome. The design suggests Victorian Era to me.

Gold content in Victorian Era, you can Google, was usually 15k and 18k or 9k apparently.

Oh gosh me too! I’m still hoping these are authentic antique, with all the sentimental mushiness of the idea that they survived all these years to cross paths with me. You can tell I’m new to the antique game, haha. But I know I sorely lack the eye for detecting the nuances of antique design, and can’t sustain those sentiments without objective evidence. So I really appreciate you weighing in on the details of the design! I think I can see those elements you pointed out in light of broader Victorian design now, even though I haven’t yet found another piece that looks similar.

These are somewhat odd ducks, aren’t they? I thought it was interesting that the prongs holding the cabochons extend back so that the center of gravity accounts for the forward projection of the high-domed cabochon. They almost have a bit of atomic-age whimsy to them, like little rocketships.

 

[glitterata]

You can try searching for 1880s-1900s jewelry catalogs (try google books, project gutenberg, etc) and see if you can find similar settings. Those look plausible as late Victorian to me.

 

[LightBright]

It’s possible they are from the Aesthetic Period which overlaps with Late Victorian as Glitterata says.

A Guide to Late Victorian Aesthetic Period Jewelry - Gem Society

Late Victorian Aesthetic Period jewelry marked a turn from weighty opulence to more delicate designs. Learn more about this antique style.

www.gemsociety.org

Langs has a Moonstone earring example from that Period, also domed.

Vintage Double Moonstone Dangle Earrings

Aah, the moon--that enchanting orb of the heavens. Now, a bit of it can be yours. These lovely double earbobs gleam with four clear cabochon moonstones with a glowing, billowy sheen that will had a bit of celestial beauty at your lobes. Hand fabricated in platinum and 18K yellow gold, circa...

www.langantiques.com

 

[MiniMinerva]

You can try searching for 1880s-1900s jewelry catalogs (try google books, project gutenberg, etc) and see if you can find similar settings. Those look plausible as late Victorian to me.

Thank you for sharing your eye! Plausibility is encouraging!

And I hadn’t even thought of catalogs! If you happen to have a sense of possible makers of the time to use as keywords, please do share! A quick try with generic term “jewelry catalog” into Google Books did yield a “Illustrated Jewelry Catalog, 1892” that I’m excited to peruse, so thank you! I’ll report back if I find anything similar.

 

[MiniMinerva]

It’s possible they are from the Aesthetic Period which overlaps with Late Victorian as Glitterata says.

That’s a new term for me! Thanks for the insight — that could help narrow down the search! It does look like Aesthetic Period fits the style better than the Art Nouveau(?) which seems to sometimes feature moonstones.

Langs has a Moonstone earring example from that Period, also domed.

Oh I can see the similarity, that’s very cool! Thank you for finding those. The domes do have similar proportions, with the longer prongs as well. Would the Lang’s example be considered a more traditional buttercup compared to the complex buttercup?

 

[LightBright]

That’s a new term for me! Thanks for the insight — that could help narrow down the search! It does look like Aesthetic Period fits the style better than the Art Nouveau(?) which seems to sometimes feature moonstones.


Oh I can see the similarity, that’s very cool! Thank you for finding those. The domes do have similar proportions, with the longer prongs as well. Would the Lang’s example be considered a more traditional buttercup compared to the complex buttercup?

Yes, the Langs earrings are typical. The ones you have look more geometric, which I have not seen before.

 

[glitterata]

If you look at LightBright's first link and scroll down to moon-and-stars diamond earrings, you will see that the setting for the star element is very similar to the setting element holding your moonstones (different number of prongs though). Your earrings' style of safety hook with ring attached is also something I've seen before on late 19th century earrings.

 

[LightBright]

The tapering of the prongs to conform to a bullet shape was done in Edwardian period too. See the profile of the prongs in this link. So my guess is even possibly Edwardian. But Edwardian was usually 18k with platinum prongs.

Early 20th Century 18ct Gold & Platinum, Two Stone Diamond Drop Dormeuse Earrings

A pretty and very useful pair of diamond earrings, made circa 1910, suitable for both day and evening wear. They are known as “dormeuse” earrings, French for “sleeper”, meaning that you can sleep with them on. The larger claw set diamonds are 30 points each within pie crust settings. Above each...

www.antiquejewellerycompany.com

These are Victorian with a taper.

Victorian .60 CT Antique Diamond Cut Boxed earrings For Sale at 1stDibs

For Sale on 1stDibs - Victorian Treasure Sweatiest antique Victorian Diamond Earrings, lovely in design, artful crafted in 18 Kt gold Set with four beautiful bright white antique

www.1stdibs.com

I don’t think any modern “replica” earrings would go to the trouble of: bullet shape moonstones, complex geometric prongs with a taper, and with a perfect decorative frame top down. It’s too sophisticated IMO to be a modern copy (I could be wrong!).

My only query then is the 14k gold.

 

[JPie]

I’m going to slightly disagree. Those are buttercup settings, I think, which are Victorian. Is there a hallmark on the gold?

Victorian buttercup settings have a more floral, curved shape to their outline:



The lines of OP’s earrings actually reminded me of this bracelet that I’ve had saved:

Unfortunately, Bell and Bird never stated what era it’s from.

If I had to guess with a gun to my head, I’d say late 19th to early 20th century.

 

[LightBright]

Victorian buttercup settings have a more floral, curved shape to their outline:



The lines of OP’s earrings actually reminded me of this bracelet that I’ve had saved:

Unfortunately, Bell and Bird never stated what era it’s from.

If I had to guess with a gun to my head, I’d say late 19th to early 20th century.

Yes I think that’s from the Aesthetic Movement 1860-1900. It’s a little more angular than Victorian. Edwardian Period started 1901-1914.

 

[MiniMinerva]

Thank you so much everyone! I am in awe of your insights and attention to detail. @glitterata it was a great catch to see the similar motif in the moon & star earrings from the helpful link @LightBright sent about the Aesthetic Movement. I have so much more to learn, but I am starting to see how the more angular style and star motif could fit in, along with the high cabochons and tapered prongs, and it is super helpful to know the safety hook looks similar to others of the late 19th century. That also matches up with the sense of time period that @JPie had based on the lines of that amazing peaked bracelet. And these earrings are quite petite, which fits in with how “The heavy jewelry of the Grand Period didn't fit well with women's new active lifestyles. Therefore, women's jewelry became lighter and smaller.” The 14K vs. 15K or 18K may still a bit of a mystery though, especially with no purity mark.

I don’t think any modern “replica” earrings would go to the trouble of: bullet shape moonstones, complex geometric prongs with a taper, and with a perfect decorative frame top down. It’s too sophisticated IMO to be a modern copy (I could be wrong!).

I’ve been spending my spare time scouring the internet for similar pieces and haven’t had much luck! While it would be neat to find a match and learn more about them, perhaps the silver lining is that it adds to @LightBright ‘s insightful deduction that it seems unlikely these are a modern copy (or I would think I might have found similar pairs for sale elsewhere?). They do have a considered sophistication to them that drew me in. And that almost perfect top-down frame.

Which makes me *really* want to know: how were these fabricated? Are any of you able to discern clues of whether these were cast, stamped, rolled, forged, or some other process that I haven’t heard of? From LightBright’s link it sounds like “Most Aesthetic Period jewelry was machine produced. Manufacturers stamped their marks on these pieces. However, many jewelers resented the onslaught of mass production and returned to hand fabrication.” Does anyone here have an eye for jewelry construction?

This sleuthing is really fun. As an update, feeling inspired by you all, these little earrings are now on their way to me! The dealer unfortunately hasn’t answered my email asking why these were classified as 1880’s Victorian, but I was able to use a discount code for purchase and there is a good return policy. So we can soon investigate any leads with these potential “gateway-antique” earrings in hand.

 

[LightBright]

I think they will be beautiful. I like prongs (which are more romantic and decorative) for moonstones much better than bezels, regardless of time period.

To me, it looks like these earrings were hand fabricated from pieces (I think cut by hand) as I can see gold solder, soldering the individual pieces of the basket together. Just a guess.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Yes I think that’s from the Aesthetic Movement 1860-1900. It’s a little more angular than Victorian. Edwardian Period started 1901-1914.

I was also thinking this. I was just reading up on these different design movements, and this Movement felt like a fit to me too.

I'm no expert but these "read" as antique to me as well.

Regarding making an offer, is this generally acceptable and within social norms for vendors? I would have otherwise been nervous to question pricing, but it would be nice to have an option should there not be an answer to the Victorian question.

I have found it to be normal and expected in all but the most high end retail antique sellers. They can always say no and you can be polite about it. I would probably message the seller a few times to establish rapport and answer any question I had, then say something like "I'm wondering if you would be willing to consider and offer?" Just a bit softer than throwing out a number. You might also ask if they have any flexibility on the price, which is an invitation for them to make you an offer.

 

[MiniMinerva]

I think they will be beautiful. I like prongs (which are more romantic and decorative) for moonstones much better than bezels, regardless of time period.

To me, it looks like these earrings were hand fabricated from pieces (I think cut by hand) as I can see gold solder, soldering the individual pieces of the basket together. Just a guess.

I like prongs too! These will be my first moonstones but I already think of them as ethereal little spirits that would prefer to be cradled than girdled, haha.

Thank you for your insights about fabrication! I think I see the solder now too (looks like a slightly yellower material than the body material). It would be pretty impressive if these were actually cut by hand. It seems like it would be a major balancing act to get those tiny pieces soldered together to line up within a basket as well as matching both earrings when they can’t be easily assembled on a flat surface. All that effort for little moonstones rather than diamonds/sapphires! I have no idea about fabrication so I just assumed there was a machine involved since that sounded typical of the period. Thanks for sharing your guess and I hope others weigh in too!

 

[MiniMinerva]

I was also thinking this. I was just reading up on these different design movements, and this Movement felt like a fit to me too.

I'm no expert but these "read" as antique to me as well.



I have found it to be normal and expected in all but the most high end retail antique sellers. They can always say no and you can be polite about it. I would probably message the seller a few times to establish rapport and answer any question I had, then say something like "I'm wondering if you would be willing to consider and offer?" Just a bit softer than throwing out a number. You might also ask if they have any flexibility on the price, which is an invitation for them to make you an offer.

Thank you for sharing your read! I’m encouraged to think these are indeed true antiques as you all are so well-informed and clearly experts by my standards. I’m having a great time beginning to learn about the different design movements. There is a lot of information out there.

Thank you also for the advice about antique sellers. I appreciate having a sense of the social norms in this area. You’re right, they can always say no. And establishing rapport seems like a much softer and friendlier way of approaching the issue. I’d prefer that too

 

[Dreamer_D]

Thank you for sharing your read! I’m encouraged to think these are indeed true antiques as you all are so well-informed and clearly experts by my standards. I’m having a great time beginning to learn about the different design movements. There is a lot of information out there.

Thank you also for the advice about antique sellers. I appreciate having a sense of the social norms in this area. You’re right, they can always say no. And establishing rapport seems like a much softer and friendlier way of approaching the issue. I’d prefer that too

Exchanging a few emails also helps you to get a sense of their customer service and communication. You will want good professional communication and reasonableness if you have to do a return. I like to get a bit of a feel for that sometimes with larger purchases. Not to waste anyone’s time, but you can tell a lot by how they reply to a couple questions. I alsways ask about eye visible inclusions and damage and with more expensive items may request a pictures from another angle or in different lighting. If they say no or are snarky — surprisingly common — I won’t buy.

 

[glitterata]

These earrings are a bit like your moonstones. The seller, who is knowledgeable and reliable, puts them at 1890s.

2.12 Carats Old European-Cut Diamond Earrings

Even something as simple and timeless as diamond ear drops, the Victorians did it best! This pair of antique earrings was crafted by hand circa 1890s during the Victorian era, in handmade 14 karat gold, with a rose undertone. Together they weigh 2.12 carats total in Old European-cut diamonds...

pippinvintage.com

 

[Lookinagain]

These earrings are a bit like your moonstones. The seller, who is knowledgeable and reliable, puts them at 1890s.

2.12 Carats Old European-Cut Diamond Earrings

Even something as simple and timeless as diamond ear drops, the Victorians did it best! This pair of antique earrings was crafted by hand circa 1890s during the Victorian era, in handmade 14 karat gold, with a rose undertone. Together they weigh 2.12 carats total in Old European-cut diamonds...

pippinvintage.com

Good find, they definitely have that same type of angular setting. Very helpful to OP I would think.

 

[MiniMinerva]

Exchanging a few emails also helps you to get a sense of their customer service and communication. You will want good professional communication and reasonableness if you have to do a return. I like to get a bit of a feel for that sometimes with larger purchases. Not to waste anyone’s time, but you can tell a lot by how they reply to a couple questions. I alsways ask about eye visible inclusions and damage and with more expensive items may request a pictures from another angle or in different lighting. If they say no or are snarky — surprisingly common — I won’t buy.

Thank you for the wise and helpful tips. It is an entirely new experience to navigate, coming from anonymously buying mostly contemporary jewelry from bigger companies. I suppose this world seems a much more human process…for better and for worse. Trust does seem especially important so that buying (and returning) goes smoothly. It would be a big red flag to get a snarky answer to questions about an item you’re interested in! Or even no response. I love the look of antique stones but have been too nervous to try for a purchase, with the risks of potential inclusions, light performance, or just not being what I imagined when it arrives.

 

[MiniMinerva]

These earrings are a bit like your moonstones. The seller, who is knowledgeable and reliable, puts them at 1890s.

Wow, these are most definitely the closest stylistic match so far! You are amazing…I have been looking for days! I love that the date estimate is so close! And the description says those were crafted by hand, which supports the sense @LightBright had that my pair was fabricated by hand and not by machine, even though that was typical of the era. Going to save these for reference. Plus, they are just beautiful. Thank you!

Good find, they definitely have that same type of angular setting. Very helpful to OP I would think.

Most definitely! It’s been hard to find anything similar and I had almost given up.
Super helpful! PS is awesome.