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Help Please... Is this a good buy?

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sodenc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
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Hello Pricescope,


I have been reading the forums and searching the internet for quite some time, and think that I am finally at the point where I am knowledgeable enough to buy. I have been looking for round brilliant stones in the 1.5 - 1.8 carat range with excellent cut (plus or minus on the hearts and arrows), H-G color, and eyeclean (VS1 - SI). Needless to say the price of a stone in this range can be quite pricy, anywhere from $15,000 - $21,000 with AGS or GIA certificates. Frankly, that is more that is more than I wanted to pay. Ideally, was not trying to pay above $15000 for both a diamond of this quality along with a platinum setting with small sidestones. One way that I have found to keep the cost down was to look at primarily EGL certified stones. I know there reputation both on this forum and in general has not always been associated with a great deal of enthusiasm, but I figure if the stones truly grade out as what the certificate indicates this can be a way to save several thousand dollars.


So...let''s begin. Of coure I have a friend.... everyone always has one. His family member is a jewler in the diamond district in LA. He uses primarily EGL graded stones. He agreed to help me find a nice diamond in the above price range and with the above specs.


In any case I traveled from the east coast to LA to go look at some stones, hoping to find a great deal. Well, when I arrived he sat me down with about 6 stones all EGL certified. In general they were all between 1.5 - 1.75 carat color was about H and clarity ranged (via certificate from vs1 - vs2), all were Ideal or Ideal plus cuts. Some were true hearts and arrows as indicated by the certificate.


Well at the time I decided on the following stone:


1.75 carat round brilliant
7.84 - 7.80 x 4.70 mm
cut: EGL ideal plus (true hearts and arrows indicated on cert and I viewed it with an Idealscope)
Clarity: VS2
Color: H
Crown: 34.0
Pavilion: 40.7
Table percent: 58%
Girdle: 1.4% - 2.2%
Depth: 42.6%
pavillion height: 14.3%
crown height: 42.6%
polish: very good
symmetry: very good
cutlet: none
Fluorescence: none
HCA score 0.8
Price: $10,800
Well, looking at the stone, it did shine. However, it appeared significantly more yellow than an H (maybe a K). Also, I could see small mineral inclusion under the table and within the pavilion with the naked eye. But in the end because of the price, I decided to go with this stone. The jeweler also made me a very nice platinum setting with .40 carat side stones G-H in color with vs clarity (size 6 ring) for $1000.
Now when I finally received the stone, of course I took it to a number of independent jewlers to see what they thought. Needless to say I was somewhat surprised and disturbed with their comments. First of all, there first reaction was "it is very yellow". No one thought it was an H, maybe a K. One reputable jewler did pull out a set of master stones and when viewed with the table down, we actually did finally agree that it could be a low H. For some reason based upon the cut, it appeared significantly more yellow when viewed from the top down and from the side. With regard to clarity, definitely not a VS2. It may have been and SI2 or even an I1. While the inclusions were small and would really affect a quick inspection, they were definitely present and should have not been there based on the certificate. Everyone did agree that it was an excellent cut, although shallow, and based upon dimension was in fact the diamond I purchased.
In the end, being very disappointed, I decided to return the stone.
I pretty much refused to by a stone sight unseen. So I returned to LA, to try this again. Well, second time around, I pretty much realized to truly get a stone I was happy with, I was going to have to unfortunately spend more money.
This time around, I looked at about 8 more stones that he personally picked out for me. All were between 1.7 - 2 carats and definitely more expensive. After looking through these stones very carefully with a loupe and an ideal scope, I decided on the following stone.
1.81 carat round brilliant
7.88 - 7.82 x 4.81 mm
cut: EGL ideal plus (non-hearts and arrows; arrows were present but a true hearts pattern was not)
Clarity: VS1
Color: G
Crown: 36.0
Pavilion: 41.1
Table percent: 57%
Girdle: 0.8% - 1.7%
Depth: 61.30%
pavilion height: 15.80%
crown height: 43.20%
polish: very good
symmetry: very good
cutlet: very small
Fluorescence: faint blue
HCA score 5.3
Price: $13,800
The following stone looked amazing! As far as I could tell, everything with the certificate was spot on. And despite being a non-hearts and arrows cut, this particular stone looked as good, if not better, than other hearts and arrows diamonds that I have viewed EGL, AGS or GIA. I was surprised that the HCA score was so high at 5.3. Perhaps it was the cutlet #. I am not sure what an appropriate value for this stone should be, as it only says very small on the certificate.
This time around I decided to have it independently appraised by a GIA GG gemologist. I was much happier this time around. Essentially everything was spot on with the exception of the clarity. Unfortunately, there was a very small nick in the girdle that lowered the clarity from VS1 to VS2. However, the gemologist did note that the nick could be polished out with a total loss of carat weight of .01 to 0.02 or re-cut to entirely remove the nick with a total carat loss of .05 - .06.

I was wondering if I could obtain some advice as to whether or not this would be a good stone to purchase despite the nick? Is it still a good value at that price with a VS2 clarity rating. Also, can anyone advise me as to why the HCA score is so high?


Thanks
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Hi sodenc and welcome!

There's a lot to address but I will begin with the most pertinent details.

The diamond you are now considering scores poorly on the HCA because it is what we call a steep deep. This basically means the 36/41 angle combo aren't a good balance and light leakage can result. See if you can look at the diamond ( if you still want to buy it) through an Idealscope or check it away from the store lights, look for a dark ring around the table or dull patches. See if it " dies" once you get it away from the bright store lighting and into plain daylight where the ring will normally be worn.

To me there are too many flags for this purchase, being EGL and not knowing which branch of EGL graded the diamond, plus the angles. Depending on the overall cutting precision the leakage if it shows any might not be too bad but its a risky stone in my opinion, concerning the appraisal you had done, is the person that appraised the diamond an actual independant appraiser that does not sell diamonds?

Below are some photos of steep deep angled diamonds with leakage to show you what to look for. The diamond below right shows a dark ring around the table which is leakage.

dark-table-twot.jpg
 
Thanks for the promt reply, Lorelei

So I have looked at this stone quite thoroughly. It is an EGL LA graded stone. My first trip to LA, I had no idealscope. However, on the second trip, I was sure to bring one along. From what I could tell, for some reason the light performance was nearly equivalent to some of the hearts and arrows cuts that I compared side by side. I have had the stone for a few days and have looked at it in a number of different lighting enviornments and side by side with other hearts and arrows stones at various Jewlers both in NC and in MO. The stone seems to perform extremely well, much better than what I would have imagined looking at the numbers. I had another GIA GG (differnet from the one who provided the appraisal) look at it along side a 1.5 carat H, VS2 AGS 000 stone from her store in STL, MO. She couldn''t see any difference with regard to fire and brilliance. She did agree that it was probably a natural G, and with faint blue flouresence may be getting a little help to look closer to an F. She did note the nick. After closely inspecting it under a microscope, she commented that the nick was so small that it could be easily be hidden under a prong without impacting the integrity of the stone.

At this point, I am trying to determine if based upon the value whether or not this is a good buy? The 1.5 carat AGS 000 was listed at $14,000 in her retail jewelry store. There is a 30 day return policy, but no upgrade or replacement policy for the diamond I may buy. Oh, the first GIA GG gemologist who gave me an official apraisal indicated the center stone had a value of $13475 per carat with a total value of 24,300.
 
Date: 2/13/2010 1:12:41 PM
Author: sodenc
Thanks for the promt reply, Lorelei

So I have looked at this stone quite thoroughly. It is an EGL LA graded stone. My first trip to LA, I had no idealscope. However, on the second trip, I was sure to bring one along. From what I could tell, for some reason the light performance was nearly equivalent to some of the hearts and arrows cuts that I compared side by side. I have had the stone for a few days and have looked at it in a number of different lighting enviornments and side by side with other hearts and arrows stones at various Jewlers both in NC and in MO. The stone seems to perform extremely well, much better than what I would have imagined looking at the numbers. I had another GIA GG (differnet from the one who provided the appraisal) look at it along side a 1.5 carat H, VS2 AGS 000 stone from her store in STL, MO. She couldn''t see any difference with regard to fire and brilliance. She did agree that it was probably a natural G, and with faint blue flouresence may be getting a little help to look closer to an F. She did note the nick. After closely inspecting it under a microscope, she commented that the nick was so small that it could be easily be hidden under a prong without impacting the integrity of the stone.

At this point, I am trying to determine if based upon the value whether or not this is a good buy? The 1.5 carat AGS 000 was listed at $14,000 in her retail jewelry store. There is a 30 day return policy, but no upgrade or replacement policy for the diamond I may buy. Oh, the first GIA GG gemologist who gave me an official apraisal indicated the center stone had a value of $13475 per carat with a total value of 24,300.
You are most welcome!

What I would do is get an appraisal from an actual independant appraiser, you can find one in your area here. I would rather do that than rely on a GG as we have no way of knowing their experience and skill level with appraising diamonds so that would give you a totally unbiased and expert opinion.
 
Thanks,

I guess I thought I had an independent appraisal. I purchased the stone in LA, and then I had it appraised by an GIA certified graduate gemologist who conducts indpendent appraisals at $45 for a local jewler in the NC area. How do the individuals listed on your link in NC differ. Are the other qualifications that are more important than being a GIA graduate gemologist?
 
Independent means he is not selling any jewelry and not working for someone who does. No conflict of interest.
 
Date: 2/13/2010 1:50:06 PM
Author: sodenc
Thanks,

I guess I thought I had an independent appraisal. I purchased the stone in LA, and then I had it appraised by an GIA certified graduate gemologist who conducts indpendent appraisals at $45 for a local jewler in the NC area. How do the individuals listed on your link in NC differ. Are the other qualifications that are more important than being a GIA graduate gemologist?
As your GG conducts appraisals for a local jeweller, there is the possibility of bias.

Also because a person has the GIA Graduate Gemologist qualification doesn't mean they are necessarily skilled at appraising or valuing diamonds, here are some excellent articles written by Neil Beaty, an appraiser that also posts here.

[/url]

http://journal.pricescope.com/Articles/58/1/%e2%80%9cAppraise-the-Appraiser%e2%80%9d---Help-for-Consumers.aspx
 
I guess his deal is that he runs his own shop, and at the same cost he charges regular consumers, he provides appraisal to this local jewelry shop once weekly in order to allow them to evaluate the stones that they personally purchase for retail sale. I would provide you with his name and info, but I don''t think that is allowed here on price scope? However, I do have a full appraisal in PDF format that I would be willing to share with you if interested. I would remove all important personal identifying info.
 
I don''t like those angle combos, and without personally seeing an IS image or photo of the diamond I cannot agree or disagree with your assessment of the optical performance of the diamond. You have seen it, I have not. So I guess I can''t really offer much help. Stone and Lorelei are suggesting using a PS recommended independent appraiser because they will have the skill and know how to assess the optics of the diamond. But in the end, you have seen it and seem to trust your eyes and obviously like it. We are telling you the numbers are not good. What more would you like? I am sorry to say that given the information we have, I don''t think any of us will give our "blessing", so to speak, about the cut
4.gif


As a point of education, H&A does not actually predict the optical performance of a diamond. H&A refers to the symmetry of the cut, but the angles are what make it shine and sparkle and all of that. So comparing this diamond to H&As you have seen is not the relevant comparison, you would need to compare it to diamonds of known ideal proportions. You say you have done that and were happy with the results.

I did a search and diamonds with those specs from EGL run from $9500 to $14500. So the price is probably fair, if at the high end.
 
So I can respect and appreciate the opinions posted thus far. Most of the information I have posted thus far, with the exception of the specific diamond parameterss, has been subjective rather than objective. But I will seek the advice of a reocomended apraiser to provide a more objectie perspective and report back with what I learn be it good or bad.
Also this may have also been discussed in another forum, but I was curious under what conditions the HCA score may not apply. Specifically, diamonds with high scores that may have better visual performance than expected?

Thanks for the input
 
Oh, sorry for the spelling errors. I am writining this on my cellphone in the mall at a very low magnification.
 
Date: 2/13/2010 6:03:46 PM
Author: sodenc
So I can respect and appreciate the opinions posted thus far. Most of the information I have posted thus far, with the exception of the specific diamond parameterss, has been subjective rather than objective. But I will seek the advice of a reocomended apraiser to provide a more objectie perspective and report back with what I learn be it good or bad.
Also this may have also been discussed in another forum, but I was curious under what conditions the HCA score may not apply. Specifically, diamonds with high scores that may have better visual performance than expected?

Thanks for the input
Images such as Idealscope always take precedence over a HCA score, so if those check out and you like the stone then thats the most important thing.
 
Date: 2/13/2010 12:42:50 PM
Author:sodenc

So...let''s begin. Of coure I have a friend.... everyone always has one. His family member is a jewler in the diamond district in LA. He uses primarily EGL graded stones. He agreed to help me find a nice diamond in the above price range and with the above specs.

that was your first mistake. rule #1...never buy from a friend''s uncle whose in the diamond business.
 
Date: 2/13/2010 1:12:41 PM
Author: sodenc
Thanks for the promt reply, Lorelei

So I have looked at this stone quite thoroughly. It is an EGL LA graded stone. My first trip to LA, I had no idealscope. However, on the second trip, I was sure to bring one along. From what I could tell, for some reason the light performance was nearly equivalent to some of the hearts and arrows cuts that I compared side by side. I have had the stone for a few days and have looked at it in a number of different lighting enviornments and side by side with other hearts and arrows stones at various Jewlers both in NC and in MO. The stone seems to perform extremely well, much better than what I would have imagined looking at the numbers. I had another GIA GG (differnet from the one who provided the appraisal) look at it along side a 1.5 carat H, VS2 AGS 000 stone from her store in STL, MO. She couldn't see any difference with regard to fire and brilliance. She did agree that it was probably a natural G, and with faint blue flouresence may be getting a little help to look closer to an F. She did note the nick. After closely inspecting it under a microscope, she commented that the nick was so small that it could be easily be hidden under a prong without impacting the integrity of the stone.

At this point, I am trying to determine if based upon the value whether or not this is a good buy? The 1.5 carat AGS 000 was listed at $14,000 in her retail jewelry store. There is a 30 day return policy, but no upgrade or replacement policy for the diamond I may buy. Oh, the first GIA GG gemologist who gave me an official apraisal indicated the center stone had a value of $13475 per carat with a total value of 24,300.
this was your second mistake...why would you wanna buy a damage stone?
33.gif


stop playing games with this jeweler
38.gif
tell him to show you some GIA or AGS graded stones.
 

I apologize in advance that I didn't read the long post. I would rather just buy a stone that I know is well cut and graded by a reputable source.


How about this diamond? I know the specs are a little lower than what you wanted but I think this diamond will turn out nicer than your other options. First, it is graded by AGS so the color and clarity should be accurate. The stone is cut nicely and I think the sparkle will make up for the slightly smaller size.


Carat: 1.522
Color: I
Clarity: SI1
Measurements: 7.42x7.45x4.54
Price: $9,764

http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/diamond-detail/?product_id=AGS-1040371480003

 
Date: 2/13/2010 6:03:46 PM
Author: sodenc
So I can respect and appreciate the opinions posted thus far. Most of the information I have posted thus far, with the exception of the specific diamond parameterss, has been subjective rather than objective. But I will seek the advice of a reocomended apraiser to provide a more objectie perspective and report back with what I learn be it good or bad.
Also this may have also been discussed in another forum, but I was curious under what conditions the HCA score may not apply. Specifically, diamonds with high scores that may have better visual performance than expected?

Thanks for the input
Yes, please do, I am very curious!
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Dancing Fire, I see that you are a regular on this forum. That being the case, I would expect for you to choose your words more carefully... "Mistake"... Excuse me if my opinion differs. Yes, I did try to purchase from a family friend knowing full well what difficulties may arise if I was not happy with the stones I was shown or purchased. And thus far, what I have encountered has been within my tolereance range. Like I mentioned to the forum, I am going to seek the advice of one of the reccomended apraisers. I am also going to obtain and list the full crediatials (without specific name) of the apraiser I already used.
Now, I am new to this forum, but over the past few months I feel like I have become relatively good at judging diamonds based on the 4Cs and beyond after making at least 100 stone comparisons of AGS, GIA and EGL certified stones. Of course I am by no means an expert and do not claim to be. I understand objective data is important, and fully plan to provide such information. But, who is to say that I don''t have a great stone? A number of GIA graduate gemologists and well respected nonretail jewlers were pretty impressed with the quality of the round EGL certified 1.81 ct ideal plus cut G VS2 (was VS1...small nick made it VS2) stone based on the price I paid. Similar AGS or GIA rated stones sell for about $17000 to $20000.

It seems like this forum primarily has consumers buying diamonds online. However, there are a number of individuals here who also like to make their purchase in person. Yet, the overall idea remains the same: to get the most for your money without overpaying. That being the case, if one can obtain EGL (USA) graded stone that can be objectively verified to match the qualites (4cs) etc listed on the certification, why would your average consumer want to pay more for a GIA or AGS certificate. I will admit that the prior traveling to the diamond district in LA, I was convinced that I needed and AGS or GIA stone. But after viewing
 
multiple GIA excellent, EGL ideal/ideal plus, or AGS 000 stones side by side, I see no reason (as long as you are careful and verify what you are buying) why someone can''t obtain a similarly beautiful stone from EGL.

I would love to hear some opinions on this topic, especially from some of the experts on this forum. This is an important topic for any diligent consumer.
 
So why would a vendor sell you a stone at discounted EGL price if sending the same stone to GIA/AGS for an grading fee of 150-200 USD net him an increase in selling price of 7-10k? Have you ever wonder about that?
 
Ok lets be reasonable. As we know, not all EGL stones are created equal. Some are in fact overgraded. Even the stone I picked out was a VS2 because of the small nick (it was once a VS1). Nevertheless, I am sure some savy jewelers do have there stones recertified by GIA or AGS as long as they are sure of what they have. There was even one post on this forum in which a consumer did the very same thing. Of course if there is a question to any of the 4Cs then it is not worth it. Also, I came across jewelers with very similar EGL stones list the price from $16000 -$17000. But they knew they had excellent diamonds. However, because they were EGL they commaned less of a premium than a similae GIA or AGS stone.
 
So what did that say about the skill of that vendor as a gemologist?
 
Date: 2/15/2010 5:25:58 PM
Author: Stone-cold11
So why would a vendor sell you a stone at discounted EGL price if sending the same stone to GIA/AGS for an grading fee of 150-200 USD net him an increase in selling price of 7-10k? Have you ever wonder about that?
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We can do thia for a while if you like, but I am not hear to discuss whether I think he is a good gemologist or not. Personally, he may not be the best. It really doesn''t matter to me. I don''t take anything at face value.. That is why I obtained a number of indepent opionions on the stones. Yes the first stone 1.75ct was crap, and I could see that for myself. The second, 1.81 ct. quite different. Have either of you truly taken the time to evaluate excellent cut EGL stones for yourelf and compared them to similarly graded GIA or AGS stones? Yes, some do suck, others are exactly what they are reported to be.... excellent stones. I have nothing to gain my trying to advocate for EGL. However, this site is about making informed educated deciisions and while you need to be careful, the community should know that some of their stones are exceptional buys. You can check for yourself and see the price differnces among AGs, GIA and EGL, it is no secret.
 
sodenc...what does this say about your friend''s jeweler?
innocentwhistle.gif


#1 stone is way over graded.
#2 stone has a damage fender.

so,stop dreaming !! a jeweler will not sell Filet Mignon for Hamburger price.
 
Sodenc It is best not to let DancingFire rile you up, he likes it too much.

As for Stone''s questions they are legitimate in my mind. Try not to feel defensive. Many PSers have bought EGL diamonds and been very happy. But in the end diamonds are priced according to what they are worth on the market. The lab report is, in some ways, irrelevant. The suppliers will pick and choose where they send diamonds for grading depending on where they think the diamond will do the best. Diamonds that will not fare well at AGS and GIA are often sent to other labs where they will be graded higher and thus command a better price. Yup, many happy buyers of EGL stones. But it is wise to simply be aware that you ae buying a diamond that would likely score lower in color and clarity if sent to GIA or AGS. Assess the value of the diamond you are considering in this light. There is no point is being defensive, everyone makes their own choices when the buy a diamonds. If this diamond seems right to you given your desires and your budget, and you feel you have done due dilligence, then it doesn''t really matter what we say.

But if you ask, people are still going to comment!
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And just as an additional point of reference, an accurately graded G VS1 of ideal proportions bought online (and thus less expensive than at a B&M) would cost $20k: http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/6123/ Given that, I am sorry, but you really need to accept that the diamond you are considering is *not* a true G VS2 of super ideal proportions. It simply cannot be. If it were, it would have been sent to GIA and it would be sold for $20k. The gemologist who is actually hawking the diamonds did not make the decision about which lab to send it to, most likely that decision was made by a wholesaler who originally bought the diamond from the cutter. And those people do not make mistakes. If they could have made more money sending this diamond to GIA, they would have done so.

None of this means the diamond is not one you will love and enjoy for years to come. But I still think it is important to acknowledge the realities of the diamond market.
 
Dreamer Dachsie,

You make some very valid points, and again most of the information I have provided with the exception of the certificate spefications and the opinions of the GIA GG gemologist apraiser are subjective. Interestingly, another former visitor to pricescope seemed to have a very similar experience to mine, coming across what appeared to be 2 excellent EGL stones while being met with some serious scepticism. While is HCA scores were considerably lower than that for my 1.81 G VS2, his overall decision on which stone to purchase was ultimately made based upon his own eyes after reviewing numerous stones that were both GIA and EGL certified and the opinions of another independent apraiser that happened to be a GIA graduate gemologist.
As I am well aware and has been pointed out several times HCA scores merely serve as a rejection tool for diamonds unseen. I have seen plenty of diamonds with scores less than 1 (both GIA and EGL) with relatively poor light performance.


For those that are interested, I would review the very compelling discussion as well as argument by La Jolla first started on
11/23/2009 entitled: All things being equal, which would you choose?

I am sure that some of you are familiar with the below information but just as a refresher I am listing it below, which was also listed in the course of his discussion

...."By the way, in 2004 David Atlas and Garry Holloway conducted an interesting study on grading standards and pricing for EGL, GIA and AGS to try to demystify the whole buying process. Their sample size of diamonds wasn''t very large, but they did make some interesting findings. Among them:

"GIA is the strictest laboratory in the world" – Myth. According to this survey 8 out of 16 diamonds were graded more strictly by AGS. EGL tended to grade clarity more strictly.


"EGL certificates are not worth the paper they are printed on" – Myth. Although in 12 cases out of 17 EGL graded color softer, EGL clarity grading was as strict or stricter as GIA.


"It is safer to buy a GIA graded diamond" - Myth. Any diamond grading report is an opinion, not a guarantee.


"GIA-GTL charges more than other labs" – Fact. This adds to the cost.


"You can get ripped off buying an EGL USA graded diamond" - Myth. Even if you buy a one higher color EGL graded diamond than you require, GIA-GTL may grade it a color grade lower and the same clarity, but you will probably pay less.


There are some myths out there. In fact, the jeweler who sent me the G stone that I am currently considering buying emailed me this several weeks before:


“The Grading on EGL stones is known to be at least a grade or two lower on both color and clarity. A lot of times, stones this size get EGL certified because GIA won’t even certify them, especially if they are getting a EGL SI2 rating.”.....


 
sodenc,trust me....by the end of the day "you''ll get what you paid for"
 
Date: 2/16/2010 10:12:18 PM
Author: sodenc

Dreamer Dachsie,

You make some very valid points, and again most of the information I have provided with the exception of the certificate spefications and the opinions of the GIA GG gemologist apraiser are subjective. Interestingly, another former visitor to pricescope seemed to have a very similar experience to mine, coming across what appeared to be 2 excellent EGL stones while being met with some serious scepticism. While is HCA scores were considerably lower than that for my 1.81 G VS2, his overall decision on which stone to purchase was ultimately made based upon his own eyes after reviewing numerous stones that were both GIA and EGL certified and the opinions of another independent apraiser that happened to be a GIA graduate gemologist.
As I am well aware and has been pointed out several times HCA scores merely serve as a rejection tool for diamonds unseen. I have seen plenty of diamonds with scores less than 1 (both GIA and EGL) with relatively poor light performance.
Ultimately, this is what you should go by for sure. If you love the diamond you are considering, then buy it and enjoy. The price is good for the cert and the carat weight. All I am pointing out is that you should know what you are buying. As long as you know and are happy with what you have seen, and you pay a fair price for the quality of the diamond, then that is all you need to worry about.
 
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