Help with antique family ring setting

[lovedogs]

Ok, so some of you know about the amazing 125 year old ring my future MIL kindly gave me. I had DK resize, add engraving, and lower the diamond in the head.

However, now that the initial joy has worn off, I'm realizing I don't like something about the peg head and I need PSers help to figure out how to fix it.

I'm willing to try a new peg head, or a new head style in general. But I don't want to change the band itself or the diamond itself.

It looks uneven to me or like the diamond doesn't fit the head. I can't quite place my issue, but it looks "off". Also, the prongs catch on everything, which drives me insane.

Pics here:




The other issue is harder to explain, but I **think** the girdle of the diamond is reflecting the solid metal on the peg head or something. There is no "hole" or gap at the bottom of the head or band, so I think I'm seeing a circular reflection. I have no idea how to describe this to DK or ways to fix it. The diamond isn't ideal cut, which is fine since it's a family piece, but I don't think that's what I'm seeing.



Pics here:




Thanks!!

 

[MissGotRocks]

The prongs do look uneven and maybe a bit too thick from this close up view. Would you like these prongs to be a bit swoopy or flared out more like a cupcake? I think it is not organic enough for your taste. I think the base of the prongs could come up out of the band a bit more delicate as well - eliminating that large base and possibly allowing a small hole underneath the diamond?
I do think that your pictures of the diamond would show him what you are talking about in the center of the diamond. He might be able to come up with the fix just by seeing the pics. A picture is sometimes worth a thousand words - lol!

 

[lovedogs]

The prongs do look uneven and maybe a bit too thick from this close up view. Would you like these prongs to be a bit swoopy or flared out more like a cupcake? I think it is not organic enough for your taste. I think the base of the prongs could come up out of the band a bit more delicate as well - eliminating that large base and possibly allowing a small hole underneath the diamond?
I do think that your pictures of the diamond would show him what you are talking about in the center of the diamond. He might be able to come up with the fix just by seeing the pics. A picture is sometimes worth a thousand words - lol!

Thanks for the advice! I sent him the pics and he said he could replace the head with a different one because the stone doesn't really fit in the existing head.

Any thoughts on what style of head would work in this case?

I like these 6 prong styles from stuller:





i also like this faux bezel + prong style that he has done before (I think it's a collet setting)




Same design/style but an example from single stone


And same idea from cvb



I also like a classic semi bezel if he could put a semi bezel head on the existing band. Classic tiffany example:

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

I really am drawn to the faux bezel/collet heads.
But, what I would really do is this, now hear me out, what if you burnished this diamond into the band, even though you're also going to have the 'star' Peruzzi?

 

[LilAlex]

Yes. The basket should cradle the pavilion -- the angle of the inside of the prongs should match the pavilion angle, correct? Looks like it's hanging out in the breeze. I think it needs a custom head.

 

[SparklieBug]

... what if you burnished this diamond into the band...

This is what I thought, as well, with that lovely wide band! Having the sparkle of the diamond set into it would be lovely to my eye. Also no prongs to catch on anything, and the stone itself is safe "in" the band and will not get knocked on anything.

 

[lovedogs]

Yes. The basket should cradle the pavilion -- the angle of the inside of the prongs should match the pavilion angle, correct? Looks like it's hanging out in the breeze. I think it needs a custom head.

Yeah I agree. I think my future MIL went to a jeweler in the 90s and asked them to mount the diamond on the band. My guess is that they just took a stock head and plopped it in.

 

[lovedogs]

This is what I thought, as well, with that lovely wide band! Having the sparkle of the diamond set into it would be lovely to my eye. Also no prongs to catch on anything, and the stone itself is safe "in" the band and will not get knocked on anything.

I really am drawn to the faux bezel/collet heads.
But, what I would really do is this, now hear me out, what if you burnished this diamond into the band, even though you're also going to have the 'star' Peruzzi?

Hahaha this is why I love PS! After I posted the options I liked, I kept looking at pics, and started really liking the look of an inset stone. I especially like this look where around the stone is a kind of bezel, but not really. Just to give the stone shape more definition. Like these:




One of my all time favorite rings (not the 3 stone part persay, but the multiple bezel aesthetic but still having the stone inset) but I think it wouldn't work w my band:

 

[lovedogs]

Gahh @ZestfullyBling just posted this beauty and it makes me go back to potentially wanting a collet setting.

 

[Dee*Jay]

I really like the Single Stone inspiration with the inset. Could you get sizing beads or something put on the inside to help keep the stone on top of your finger though? I'm just thinking that since it would be more of a pure band style then it might be prone to spinning.

 

[lovedogs]

Thanks everyone! I emailed DK to ask about the collet and the inset styles. I asked if they were feasible and which one he thought would work best in this case. I'll keep folks updated on his reply!

 

[Karl_K]

and lower the diamond in the head.

When I saw the pic the first thought I had is someone lowered the diamond.
When you do that with that style head the prongs are thicker and wider the closer you get to the base, which is why they look so large over the top and why they catch.
The prong angle relative to the diamond is also a bit off.

 

[Karl_K]

Some of my picks for heads:

Inactive Group - 20615 | Stuller

Stuller, Inc. is the #1 supplier of fine jewelry, findings, mountings, tools, packaging, diamonds and gemstones for today's retail jeweler.

www.stuller.com

Inactive Group - 20615 | Stuller

Stuller, Inc. is the #1 supplier of fine jewelry, findings, mountings, tools, packaging, diamonds and gemstones for today's retail jeweler.

www.stuller.com

18K Yellow 6.5 mm Round 6-Prong Peg Setting

2000994 / Setting / Unset / 18K Yellow / Round / 6.5 mm / Semi-Polished / 6-Prong Peg Setting

www.stuller.com

 

[Karl_K]

Try some different pics and I will see if I can figure out what is going on with the stone that you see.
Btw.....

 

[lovedogs]

When I saw the pic the first thought I had is someone lowered the diamond.
When you do that with that style head the prongs are thicker and wider the closer you get to the base, which is why they look so large over the top and why they catch.
The prong angle relative to the diamond is also a bit off.

Oooooh yeah, I did have DK lower the diamond. Oops, huge fail on my part for not asking him to just change the head when he first had the ring

 

[lovedogs]

Some of my picks for heads:

Inactive Group - 20615 | Stuller

Stuller, Inc. is the #1 supplier of fine jewelry, findings, mountings, tools, packaging, diamonds and gemstones for today's retail jeweler.

www.stuller.com

Inactive Group - 20615 | Stuller

Stuller, Inc. is the #1 supplier of fine jewelry, findings, mountings, tools, packaging, diamonds and gemstones for today's retail jeweler.

www.stuller.com

18K Yellow 6.5 mm Round 6-Prong Peg Setting

2000994 / Setting / Unset / 18K Yellow / Round / 6.5 mm / Semi-Polished / 6-Prong Peg Setting

www.stuller.com

I like those a lot too. If the collet/inset style won't work, these are good alternatives!

 

[lovedogs]

Try some different pics and I will see if I can figure out what is going on with the stone that you see.
Btw.....

What is the green pointing to?

 

[lovedogs]

@Karl_K more pics

 

[Karl_K]

What is the green pointing to?

The reflection that looks like a ghost

 

[starrylight]

I love the flush set idea or something buccellati inspired:

 

[Karl_K]

Is the diamond super clean?
Loupe the pavilion and check for stubborn deposits or films.
Maybe a professional steam clean to see if anything changes?

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Vote for faux bezel. That way you don’t have to “dig in” as much to your heirloom band compared to the inset idea. The peg head looks kind of just stuck on there (no offense to FMIL or the ring) and it might still look that way even with a new lower head.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I was going to say flush set is the only answer and you got there before me! Would look smashing. Maybe you could even add some scattered diamonds around the band worked into the engraving in some way, like stars or centers of more floral elements. It could be worked around the engraving inside I’m sure. Maybe even coloured gems!

I think I recall in another thread you mentioned the Diamond was antique? I’m interested in the family lore there because the facet pattern is modern. Post 1950s I’d wager.

 

[lovedogs]

I was going to say flush set is the only answer and you got there before me! Would look smashing. Maybe you could even add some scattered diamonds around the band worked into the engraving in some way, like stars or centers of more floral elements. It could be worked around the engraving inside I’m sure. Maybe even coloured gems!

I think I recall in another thread you mentioned the Diamond was antique? I’m interested in the family lore there because the facet pattern is modern. Post 1950s I’d wager.

The diamond isn't antique, but the band is 125 years old. The diamond was worn by my fiances' grandma and his grandparents were married in 1941. So definitely a modern facet pattern

 

[Dreamer_D]

The diamond isn't antique, but the band is 125 years old. The diamond was worn by my fiances' grandma and his grandparents were married in 1941. So definitely a modern facet pattern

Ah! Well that makes perfect sense! How fun.

 

[Karl_K]

Post 1950s I’d wager.

Its from a top(top half of the crystal) cut after 1920 when the diamond saw was in common use, its hard to tell 100% sure if the girdle is bruted or frosted.
Bruted would point to closer to the 1920s.
Frosted more like the 1940s.
I'm leaning towards frosted.

 

[Karl_K]

The diamond isn't antique, but the band is 125 years old. The diamond was worn by my fiances' grandma and his grandparents were married in 1941. So definitely a modern facet pattern

lol nailed it!
I promise I had not seen this first.

 

[Dreamer_D]

lol nailed it!
I promise I had not seen this first.

Lol I think my guess that pretty close!

 

[lovedogs]

lol nailed it!
I promise I had not seen this first.

Hahahaha amazing

 

[Karl_K]

Lol I think my guess that pretty close!

lol yes it was.