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Help with Ruby custom e-ring required!

I

Insaneous

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
10
Hi everyone, i'm very new to the whole ring/gemstone game, but i've done a bit of research but still need some help.

I'm after a e-ring for my girlfriend, and would like to keep it as a surprise. I know that she wants a ruby ering, and has even sent through a couple of photos of some rings 'hinting' at what she would like. The style she likes is available at the local mall/shopping centre jewerly stores, but they can't even tell me any of the details, dont know what treatments the ruby has gone under (its natural) dont know anything about the diamonds, and only 10ct white gold. So clearly they are overpriced and I dont think I could buy something with no info.

So a bit of research has told me I could do alot better getting a custom ring (i.e premade setting and separate loose stone), but I really have no clue on this whole process!

I have found an online jeweler which can do a setting similar in style to the one she likes (even though these are diamond ring settings):

http://www.firenzejewels.com/diamond-platinum-engagement-ring-setting_5566.html?cid=35&src=c
and
http://www.firenzejewels.com/diamond-platinum-engagement-ring-setting_5560.html?cid=35&src=c

these seem to have good quality diamonds as well.

But I wouldn't have a clue on the process of installing the ruby into the ring? Does it matter that the setting is for a diamond? Will I need a 1ct Ruby to match a ring designed for a 1ct diamond? I'm just concerned if I get a separate setting and a separate ruby, that the sizes wont match.

My other questions are around the ruby itself. It seems like there are limited stores which have round 0.75 - 1ct rubies. I've looked at Gemfix Mastercut gems and precision gems, so anyone else have any tips?

Oh and i'm from Australia, so i'd need to import things which could make the process harder (i.e. returns etc).
 
Thats type of setting is called a halo. You should have a jeweler set the stone for you. Sounds like you're on the right track since your already looking at some of the vendors from the list at the top of the forum. Check out this palagems ruby buying guide.
http://www.palagems.com/burma_ruby.htm
 
P.S. Did you see that post about Australia a few posts below this one? Maybe there will be some helpful info there.
 
Thanks Innerkitten, I did see that one there and looks a good price. Just wondering if it was maybe a bit too pinkish? It is really hard to tell from photos obviously.

Will it matter if the ruby size is not the exact size for the ring. For example, if the ring requires a 6mm wide 1ct diamond, does the ruby have to be exactly 6mm?
 
Nice halo setting selections Insaneous! Have you looked at the regularly recommended PS online vendors as well?
www.jamesallen.com
www.briangavindiamonds.com
www.goodoldgold.com
www.whiteflash.com
www.bluenile.com

you may find this setting for significantly less money and then can redirect funds to the ruby.

In your 'subtle ring emails" your GF has sent you - do you see a preference for the pinker or redder stones? could you ask or find out somehow? Ask Nailpolish questions - "do you like this tone of nail polish or that one?" kind of thing?? - so you can get a sense of which tone to search for.

Please wait for the experts, but a ruby based on ct weight would not necessarily be the same as a diamond ct weight. Its the mm size that is key and often with gemstones, they are deeper than diamonds. Please wait for a CS 'expert' to pop in with a better recommendation for sizing!
 
Thanks Enerchi, i'll check these out later tonight (the GF has just come home....!). Now to find out how to work out her color preference (she has told me AGES ago but i obivously didnt put it in the knowledge bank at the time WHOOPS)
 
Insaneous|1334716378|3173894 said:
Thanks Innerkitten, I did see that one there and looks a good price. Just wondering if it was maybe a bit too pinkish? It is really hard to tell from photos obviously.

Will it matter if the ruby size is not the exact size for the ring. For example, if the ring requires a 6mm wide 1ct diamond, does the ruby have to be exactly 6mm?
Click to expand...

Well 6mm ( 5.9, 6.1) would be a good size to aim for if you do use a stock type setting because it's a calibrated size. same with 7mm or 5mm.

I thinking a jeweler would most likely be able to make it work. Unless the stone is super deep or something. But other people that have used these types of settings might have more info.
 
It does not matter that the setting is for a diamond or a coloured gemstone; both are interchangeable so long as the stone fits. Going by carat weight will be too vague because the face up dimensions of 2 stones of the same carat weight can vary greatly. In general terms though, if the setting requires a 6 mm stone (0.8 ct thereabouts for a diamond), then a 6 mm coloured stone will do as well. There is some leeway of plus/minus 0.5 mm each way, meaning that the stone can be as small as 5.5 mm to 6.5 mm at its limit. Getting it as close to the 6 mm mark will obviously be a better fit though. The other thing to watch out with coloured gemstones is that they are almost always deeper than diamonds. If the stone has a deep belly, then the setting needs to be a little bigger to accomodate the depth. Worse case scenario, a custom setting will be required. A 1 ct ruby will probably measure around 6 mm or so, give or take.

Not knowing your budget and preferences, I'd like to ask how particular you might be about the following:
1. Treatment - heated only I presume? One has to be cognizant of lead glass filled and diffused rubies.
2. Quality - how clean must the ruby be? Totally eye clean or a bit of birthmarks are fine?
3. It sounds like you have a particular shape in mind?
 
Chrono|1334720365|3173942 said:
It does not matter that the setting is for a diamond or a coloured gemstone; both are interchangeable so long as the stone fits. Going by carat weight will be too vague because the face up dimensions of 2 stones of the same carat weight can vary greatly. In general terms though, if the setting requires a 6 mm stone (0.8 ct thereabouts for a diamond), then a 6 mm coloured stone will do as well. There is some leeway of plus/minus 0.5 mm each way, meaning that the stone can be as small as 5.5 mm to 6.5 mm at its limit. Getting it as close to the 6 mm mark will obviously be a better fit though. The other thing to watch out with coloured gemstones is that they are almost always deeper than diamonds. If the stone has a deep belly, then the setting needs to be a little bigger to accomodate the depth. Worse case scenario, a custom setting will be required. A 1 ct ruby will probably measure around 6 mm or so, give or take.
Click to expand...
Thats good to know. One of the ones I linked to only said they were suited for 1 ct diamond, no measurement, so i'll have to ask and find out.


Chrono|1334720365|3173942 said:
Not knowing your budget and preferences, I'd like to ask how particular you might be about the following:
1. Treatment - heated only I presume? One has to be cognizant of lead glass filled and diffused rubies.
2. Quality - how clean must the ruby be? Totally eye clean or a bit of birthmarks are fine?
3. It sounds like you have a particular shape in mind?
Click to expand...

1. Heated only treatment I am looking for. I've seen the couple of links on this forum about the problems with lead glass filled ones.
2. The ruby doesn't have to be totally eye clean, sometimes they look a bit too clean if you get what i mean.
3. The shape will need to be round to fit with the Halo settings I have linked.

So for my budget, i gather I need to allow for the ring setting ($1500 - $2500) and the ruby ($1000 - $2000) and then fitting by local jeweler ($100 - $200???), as well as customs and importing costs.

There a similar ruby ring here:

http://www.thediamondstore.co.uk/18k-white-gold-diamond-and-ruby-brilliant-cut-ring-036ct-p19987c256.cfm#moreinfo

But I dont know if the quality will be up to scratch. No details on the ruby itself, and the diamonds are worse quality then my previous links (even though I konw smaller diamonds the quality is not as important right?)
 
Blue Nile operate in AUS thus avoiding import and duties etc. How about one of these settings?
http://au.bluenile.com/diamond-engagement-ring-white-gold_20395 AUD1225
http://au.bluenile.com/diamond-platinum-engagement-ring_7814 AUD 1525

I believe they also do some custom-ish work. How about this setting with a ruby halo in the place of the pink sapphires?
http://au.bluenile.com/sapphire-diamond-18k-white-gold-engagement-ring_19839

This PS vendor has a lot of round rubies in your size/price range but I have no idea of quality
http://www.israel-diamonds.com/search/rubies/default.aspx?loc=left
 
Great tip for him about Bluenile.

Chrono, the budget is above.
 
Does Edward Bristol (at least I think it was him) still have his website for untreated natural rubies?
 
So sorry I completely missed the part where the budget was stated. :oops:
 
Maybe I will need to up my budget!!!
 
A good ruby that is heat only is very expensive. Round shapes are uncommon so the search becomes more difficult. If you don't mind an oval, your options will open up greatly. Upping the budget is not always realistic; let's look around a little longer to see what can be found.
 
Square cushions or 'rovals' (almost round ovals) also look great haloed.

Good luck with the hunt!
 
What did you think of the settings I showed you from bluenile aus? i think a couple of them were under you setting budget so thats a few more $$ towards the ruby.
 
and ovals look great haloed too! You can definitely get a halo made to fit any shape center stone.
 
Thanks everyone for your tips!

Chel180, the bluenile ones look nice as well and are a bit cheaper!

I think i will stick to trying to find a round ruby... then I can keep my options narrow and work on getting a good round one hopefully.

I have found one i've liked and is in a good price range, however its a bit smaller at 5.5mm diameter (0.89 ct). Does anyone know how this will look in a setting? Will any of the ones previously linked (i.e. in my first post or bluenile) would accommodate smaller stone.

I'm gathering from most responses that getting a custom made halo ring by a local Aus dealer wouldn't be that difficult? How about selecting the diamond stones for the ring and guaranteeing quality.
 
Bluenile will make either of those rings to fit your ruby whatever size you chose. infact most vendors will.

I think a 5.5mm round ruby in a halo will look perfect. The visual impact of a bright red stone will always be more than a diamond. Maybe these will give you an idea of how your ring could look.
This is a 6mm round diamond in a simon g setting to show you roughly what it'll look like.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-new-e-ring-and-its-vintage-side-kick.173933/
another tiffany ring in a halo of a similar size
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-new-fiancées-tiffany-embrace-ring.169039/
another ritani ring around 5mm round in a halo
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/my-new-ritani-e-ring.162990/
 
To get the sense of perspective, you can draw out a 5.5 mm circle onto a piece of paper, then add your halo "trim" around it. A 5.5 mm stone is pushing the boundaries of a 6 mm setting but will probably fit. The selection of the melee diamonds is always left up to the benchperson making the ring. The customer can specify the quality (clarity and colour) but cut can vary unless you go to someone who is known for consistently using very good precision cut diamonds.
 
Apologies, I haven't read all the above so this may already have been said!

May I make a suggestion? Find the stone first. You may end up seeing a wonderful gemstone but have your heart set on a particular setting and so you don't grab the stone and then it's gone! Stones are much harder to find (especially lovely rubies) than settings. Most settings can either be replicated or adjusted (within some parameters) to match your stone.

Have you tried Doug? I believe he's based in Aus. http://www.bespoke-gems.com/SacredGeometrics_MainFoyer.php He doesn't have any rubies on his site listed at the moment but he may have some rough so probably worth a call especially as you're more local to him than most of us!
 
ohh whats everyones thoughts on this more unique style halo

http://au.bluenile.com/diamond-engagement-ring-platinum_17373

I wonder how a ruby would look instead.

The little video they have is showing a 0.5ct diamond, so would be a bit smaller than a 5.5mm ruby (i'm assuming 0.61ct diamond = 5.5mm ruby)
 
I like it. Any good leads yet on your ruby search?
 
Search is going ok, there is one. 55mm diameter Ruby on. Gemfix (under the new stock page) which they have said was better than the other two larger ones listed. The one already linked at africagem is under consideration but a few others there as well. On my phone at the moment, so ill link them a bit later.

Intestering email from bluenile, they have pretty much said they wouldn't supply the setting on its own, it would need to come with a diamond. But they can source there own rubies, but I wouldn't know what their quality is like. Anyway I've told them I want a 6mm Ruby, not shallow, no windowing or black edge/specks, eye clean, heat only treatment (no lead,glass,oil, filling or surface treatment) red color, so we will see what they come back with (probably $$$$).

Would it be possible to get a setting with cheapest diamond possible and then replace with similar size Ruby at local jeweller? Or once it has been set, its final?

Argh I hate typing on the phone!!
 
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