How does platinum look after time/wear??????

[ScubaDucky]

I''ve been researching the different alloys platinum can be made from. Specifically, the 3 most common ones I''ve come across are:

95%platinum 5%ruthenium Hardness:135
90%platinum 10%iridium Hardness:110
95%platinum 5%iridium Hardness:80


I really want the alloy that will stay white and shiny the longest. I love the weight of platinum, just not the patina. Also, I''m somewhat clumsy

so having anything too soft would be a bad idea.

The research tells me that I should avoid 950/5 iridium, but the ring I''m looking at from a designer is exactly that.

I don''t think I can get them to use a different alloy.

I''m interested to know from you guys on the actual wear and tear of a 950/5iridium -- after a few weeks, months, and years.. What does it look like?

 

[oldminer]

Very interesting statistics on hardness. I don';t know how accurate they are, but if this is true, then maybe there is a benefit to the more "durable" alloy type.

In my experience, I have found all platinum to be quite durable when compared to most gold products. Diamonds set in platinum tend to stay put. Wear and scratching from weeks and months of use certainly occur, but don't seem to bother most people. Every ring will show wear almost immediately no matter what it is made of, except for titanium.

The harder alloys tend to be used in items where stability is necessary, such as the solitaires where the diamond is held only by the pressure applied to the sides of the stone and seems to float over the finger with no prongs.

Tyhe softer alloys are needed for making delicate filigree work and for items where there is hand engraving. Since they are soft the jeweler can more readily form the shapes or cut the designs in the metal.

Probably none of this matters to your choice. Platinum stays gray/white and does not tarnish. Most platinum jewelry comes plated with Rhodium but that plating does not last very long. By the time the plating is gone, you won't miss it a whole lot. It makes a new item seem very shiny and fresh, but it is temporary.

When rhodium comes off of white gold there is a much larger change in whiteness and appearance. White gold is not nearly as white as platinum.

 

[DexterSinister]

My wedding band is 18kt yellow gold borders on a carved platinum center section ... it has been worn daily for 3 years or so [it's not my *original* wedding ring, but that's another story] ...

It has not been polished, cleaned, or babied in any way [I don't shower with it on, nor do I cook with it on ... but otherwise, it's on my hand at all times] ... and it still looks as good as the day it left the jeweller's case.

The gold has some small scratches ... but the platinum portion looks perfect.

I think platinum is the ideal metal for daily wear & it certainly sets of a nice diamond [or several] ...

Just my anecdotal experience.

 

[Griffin]

The platinum alloys you mentioned are older ones, most pros are using a platinum/cobalt alloy now. Casts much nicer, denser, less porosity, better surface finish. It has some different handling characteristics and of all things is slightly magnetic.

All plat, however, does turn that nasty flat grey after a short time if the whole ring is made of it. Makes good prongs if you are into that sort of ring, sometimes good heads, but generally I don't recommend it for shanks.

Unless the slight warm tone bothers you, use white gold (palladium/white not the nickel-based white). It will look better in the long run, is self-burnishing which plat is not, and is a whole hell of a lot cheaper.

 

[ScubaDucky]

OldMiner,
hmm.. I'm not sure how accurate the statistics are. I compiled them from reading old pricescope thread, though I believe another website was cited... here: http://www.platinum-wedding-rings.com/platinum_alloy_information.html

I did consider white gold, but the setting I like has a row of bead/pave stones along the shank. I felt that white gold might not be strong enough to hold the small stones in.

Griffin,
Interesting about platinum mixed with Cobalt. I actually read the exact opposite. I thought Cobalt when mixed with Platinum produces an extremely hard mixture -- but very brittle. Hard impact could result in breakage instead of just dings.

 

[Griffin]

If you are worried about pave set diamonds in gold, try to find a jeweler who is familiar with cast-in-place. Cheaper, as the stones are set in the wax, and far more secure. Can't be done with some colored diamonds, but for everything else it is a godsend. Only way cast-in-place diamonds come out is with aqua regia!

As for the brittleness problem, a jeweler should always, though many don't or don't know how, properly heat treat and stress-relieve each piece especially after soldering. Knowledge of the alloys properties is essential. Use of proper burrs in setting also contributes to eliminating stress concentration and resulting brittle fracture.