Increasing ring durability/longevity

[Anonymous]

Hi I already have a stone and I need a setting for it. The girlfriend really likes this http://www.greenwichjewelers.com/shop/designers/beverley-k/products/beverley-k-diamond-marquis-pattern-band-engagement-ring

It is very pretty on her size 4 finger given how thin it is, but I worry its too thin.

Material: platinum is the strongest right?

Thickness: is there a size you don't want to go below? Is 1mm or 1.5mm too thin?

Side stone setting: pave weakens the structure so I should consider a bezel or channel setting, right?

Structure: cathedral and bigger baskets protect the stone and make for a stronger ring. I know that 4 prongs creates more room for possible damage to the stone as do really skinny prongs but how about split claw prongs. Any impact from this?

Manufacturing method: die pressed is the strongest (van craeynest), then handmade (leon and victor) and then casting. Someone mentioned extrusion being even stronger than die pressed but I couldn't find more info - who makes it that way and what are the pros/cons? Can I have a custom made design like the Beverly K ring above made using a die press? If I go down the casting route and have a jeweler on 47 street make the ring, is there a way to make sure the ring is better quality or won't have porosity issues? I was quoted 1500 to do this.

Price: is there a place to get the Beverly k ring for less? I couldn't find it when I googled. Is the Beverly K ring going to be weak? Should I have someone like victor hand make it or ask van craeynest to die press it?

 

[webdiva]

Good Old Gold, Pearlman's and perhaps ID Jewelry (not sure about this last one) have it at a discount. Talk to any of them and they'll advise you on how to modify the setting (if necessary) to make it extra durable. Bev K can be modified for a small extra charge. I love my Bev K! They're right here in California. Some of the top jewelers in LA sell Bev K items, like 23rd street jewelers.

 

[Haven]

I think it's important to remember that this is a piece of jewelry, and should be treated as such. If your girlfriend loves this setting, it might be a big mistake to opt for a different one just because it is sturdier.

I would contact a vendor that sells this setting and ask them about their experiences with it--have they had complaints? Has it been returned or have many customers needed repair because it falls apart? Those sorts of questions.

Many will tell you that a ring thinner than 2 mm is too thin for them. I wear a hand-forged 1.55 mm ring, and I love it. I wouldn't trade it for the world, and I wouldn't love it so much if it were a heavy, sturdy setting, because that's not my style.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Hi I already have a stone and I need a setting for it. The girlfriend really likes this http://www.greenwichjewelers.com/shop/designers/beverley-k/products/beverley-k-diamond-marquis-pattern-band-engagement-ring

It is very pretty on her size 4 finger given how thin it is, but I worry its too thin.

Material: platinum is the strongest right?

Platinum is your best bet because it doesn't wear away over time.

Thickness: is there a size you don't want to go below? Is 1mm or 1.5mm too thin?

I wouldn't go under 1.8mm.

Side stone setting: pave weakens the structure so I should consider a bezel or channel setting, right?

No, not necessarily. That ring shouldn't be a problem in terms of the diamonds on the shank.

Structure: cathedral and bigger baskets protect the stone and make for a stronger ring. I know that 4 prongs creates more room for possible damage to the stone as do really skinny prongs but how about split claw prongs. Any impact from this?

I think you need to go by what she loves. And if that BK ring is what she wants, then get that!!! I do hate the prongs on that one, though. They are WAY too bulky and I would specify that I wanted delicate claw prongs.

Manufacturing method: die pressed is the strongest (van craeynest), then handmade (leon and victor) and then casting. Someone mentioned extrusion being even stronger than die pressed but I couldn't find more info - who makes it that way and what are the pros/cons? Can I have a custom made design like the Beverly K ring above made using a die press? If I go down the casting route and have a jeweler on 47 street make the ring, is there a way to make sure the ring is better quality or won't have porosity issues? I was quoted 1500 to do this.

Please don't try to recreate a BK ring. Buy the real thing.


Price: is there a place to get the Beverly k ring for less? I couldn't find it when I googled. Is the Beverly K ring going to be weak?

Pearlman's gives a 20% discount on most items to PriceScope members and Good Old Gold also sells BK and likely will match the discount if you ask. I think all rings need to be treated with care and it should be fine if she is careful with it.

Should I have someone like victor hand make it or ask van craeynest to die press it?

Well, I love Victor's work and he could make a gorgeous ring. But you will need to be prepared to pay more than BK prices if you go that route. Van Craeynest has their own designs and already has the antique dies to make the diestruck rings. If you want to go with one of their designs, that will also be great. But don't ask them to recreate a BK ring. Again, I think you'd end up paying a lot more.

Answers above in bold print. My only question about that setting is did she try on wedding bands with it? I personally prefer a simple shank on the e-ring which allows almost any kind of wedding band. In this case, the e-ring would have such a specific style that she'd be more limited in wedding band styles...probably a BK wedding band.

 

[Anonymous]

Well here is the thing. I am fine with paying more, up to a certain amount. I mean how much more would it be to create this through Victor? I emailed him so maybe he can opine. And if it looks similar but is much better quality, I know she'd be fine with it. Truthfully, we have looked at so many rings and she tried so many on. I have a folder full of at least 30-40 designs that she liked...most were similar to this because they look antique-Ish according to her. She liked this one but I promise you she doesn't care if its not exactly this.

Have any of you seem similar styles but much higher quality?

And I did ask Greenwich and the response was danhov makes handmade rings, van craeynest makes die pressed which is stronger but really there shouldn't be any quality/durability difference between a handmade like danhov or this cast Beverly k. This goes against everything I've read so I took it with a grain of salt.

Also she tried this style in Beverly k and tacori and a few others and is fine wearing a thin straight rose gold band with it or even wearing it on different hands.

And yes I hate those prongs too. What were they thinking??

 

[Haven]

If she wants a RG wedding band then you shouldn't get a platinum e-ring, as the platinum will eat away at the RG.

I also wouldn't get a platinum setting just because it's the sturdier metal--get what she prefers.

 

[Anonymous]

If she wants a RG wedding band then you shouldn't get a platinum e-ring, as the platinum will eat away at the RG.

I also wouldn't get a platinum setting just because it's the sturdier metal--get what she prefers.

Well that's something I didn't know. She wanted platinum for the engagement ring and gold for the band. She actually prefers platinum so its not just to get a sturdy metal. This is a recipe for disaster?

 

[04diamond<3]

If she wants a RG wedding band then you shouldn't get a platinum e-ring, as the platinum will eat away at the RG.

I also wouldn't get a platinum setting just because it's the sturdier metal--get what she prefers.

Well that's something I didn't know. She wanted platinum for the engagement ring and gold for the band. She actually prefers platinum so its not just to get a sturdy metal. This is a recipe for disaster?

No. If that's what she wants why would it be a disaster? This is something she's going to have to wear and if she wants to mix metals that's up to her and up to you to get for her. We're just suggesting that you stick with what you know she likes.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Gold wears away over time...even two gold bands next to each other. But it will take a long time. She can have another made if the original gets too thin. I would not be sure that a simple rose gold band would look that good with the particular ring you are wanting to have made, though. But wait until she gets the e-ring and then try some on with it.

Okay, what kind of diamond are you getting for this ring just out of curiosity?

If you are willing to pay the price, have Victor make it. He would do a beautiful job and could make it just a little more substantial. But several people here have BK and it is a nice quality brand.

I will admit that it is nice seeing a guy put this kind of thought into a ring.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

One more idea for you for very fine quality:

http://www.platinumrings.com/index.php?page=showcase&catID=2,8,13&Ladies'%20Bands

I linked you to their bands because some of them are similar to BK designs. That would lead me to think it might be easy for them to do a shank like she wants on an engagement ring. They have gorgeous engagement rings as well.

 

[Anonymous]

http://greenwich.blob.core.windows.net/media/images/bf74bb668fd249f9a12afc46a7172c45-800x800.png

We have decided on using that Beverly k ring as inspiration for hers. There are just too many changes we want to make.

I am trying to understand whether this should be hand forged or simply cast. We want platinum as the metal.

The original cast version which I do not want costs $4k.
A jeweler has quoted me $1500 for a cast version which involves cad illustrations and a silver prototype so that i can see the changes i want done before it is finalized.
Leon and Steven are absolutely talented but charge close to $5k.
I found someone else locally who will completely hand forge the setting and prongs for $2900. If it is just the shank that costs $2400.
One of the big pricescope vendors recommended not wasting money on handmade while another really recommend I pursue handmade.

FYI, the side stones are 1.5mm, the metal surrounding it is .2mm on each side so the widest point is 1.9mm. I'm assuming the metal in between each "link" is about .4mm.

So with casting it costs less and I get to see the ring with all the changes I want to make. And with hand forged I pay twice as much, and get better detail and strength. For me the only real issue is worry over durability - is this a ring that I need to make hand forged if I want it to last? Or should I not worry?

Thank you all for your help.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

We have decided on using that Beverly k ring as inspiration for hers. There are just too many changes we want to make.

I am trying to understand whether this should be hand forged or simply cast. We want platinum as the metal.

The original cast version which I do not want costs $4k.
A jeweler has quoted me $1500 for a cast version which involves cad illustrations and a silver prototype so that i can see the changes i want done before it is finalized.
Leon and Steven are absolutely talented but charge close to $5k.
I found someone else locally who will completely hand forge the setting and prongs for $2900. If it is just the shank that costs $2400.
One of the big pricescope vendors recommended not wasting money on handmade while another really recommend I pursue handmade.

FYI, the side stones are 1.5mm, the metal surrounding it is .2mm on each side so the widest point is 1.9mm. I'm assuming the metal in between each "link" is about .4mm.

So with casting it costs less and I get to see the ring with all the changes I want to make. And with hand forged I pay twice as much, and get better detail and strength. For me the only real issue is worry over durability - is this a ring that I need to make hand forged if I want it to last? Or should I not worry?

Thank you all for your help.

You are saying that Beverley K ring is $4k in platinum??? That is nuts.

You got quotes from Leon and Steven for that exact ring (with better prongs ) and they said $5k??? I can hardly believe that.

It doesn't matter if it is cast or handforged. Either will be fine in platinum. I would not use someone local unless I had seen several examples of their work similar to this up close.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

And what changes do you want made? BK will make changes. Did Greenwich give you the $4k quote and was that retail or with a discount?

 

[Anonymous]

We have decided on using that Beverly k ring as inspiration for hers. There are just too many changes we want to make.

I am trying to understand whether this should be hand forged or simply cast. We want platinum as the metal.

The original cast version which I do not want costs $4k.
A jeweler has quoted me $1500 for a cast version which involves cad illustrations and a silver prototype so that i can see the changes i want done before it is finalized.
Leon and Steven are absolutely talented but charge close to $5k.
I found someone else locally who will completely hand forge the setting and prongs for $2900. If it is just the shank that costs $2400.
One of the big pricescope vendors recommended not wasting money on handmade while another really recommend I pursue handmade.

FYI, the side stones are 1.5mm, the metal surrounding it is .2mm on each side so the widest point is 1.9mm. I'm assuming the metal in between each "link" is about .4mm.

So with casting it costs less and I get to see the ring with all the changes I want to make. And with hand forged I pay twice as much, and get better detail and strength. For me the only real issue is worry over durability - is this a ring that I need to make hand forged if I want it to last? Or should I not worry?

Thank you all for your help.

You are saying that Beverley K ring is $4k in platinum??? That is nuts.

You got quotes from Leon and Steven for that exact ring (with better prongs ) and they said $5k??? I can hardly believe that.

If those quotes are accurate, I would contact Mark at Engagement Rings Direct and get a quote from him. It doesn't matter if it is cast or handforged. Either will be fine. I would not use someone local unless I had seen several examples of their work similar to this up close.

Yes the price is a bit of a shocker but they are more than entitled to charge that. I compared with GOG and Pearlmans. The lowest i was able to get to was 3600. Greenwich was really lovely actually. I have a feeling they would give a better price if I had purchased the stone from them. The changes I want to make include elongating certain portions of the marquis shapes, having them be a bit more defined and completely changing the head. I can get all the changes I want at 1500, and it would take 1-2 weeks vs having Beverly K make such substantial changes and charge much more.

Gosh I loved Steven. His talent was off the charts. I was really hoping she would love a particular style he showed me but she didn't go for it. I am sure that he would do this design and probably incorporate my changes and tell me how to make it even nicer. I am in the Ny metro area so I was able to price this with all the pricescope vendors. Really every single one was great and I have nothing but great things to say about Diamonds by Lauren and Mark. I was hoping Marks price would be lower but the reality is I purchased a diamond elsewhere so the price quoted was higher than the lowest hand forged quote (2900) and I completely understand that I would be taking too much of his time for too little profit. Gosh he was super nice so I just want to do something with him at some point if this doesn't work.

So really it is 1400 vs 2900 for cast vs handmade.

 

[Anonymous]

Is this a design that should really be done in hand forged or would the design and durability be fine with casting as well?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

If you could have an agreement with the jeweler that you can walk if the ring isn't to your satisfaction, then it can't hurt to try the $1500 one. If it turns out as well as a BK, you can assure him he will have a LOT of new business after you post the ring here!

I am just wary because I have seen perfect milgrain here and awful milgrain. So it is just a little scary when a quote is so low. You need to look at the ring with a 10x loupe before you pay and before you walk out of the store. But it would be terrific if it turned out well.

I can't remember but did we talk to you about platinum alloys? Because you don't want the common, softer one.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I wanted to add that it was nice to hear your positive impressions of the jewelers you visited!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Is this a design that should really be done in hand forged or would the design and durability be fine with casting as well?

As long as you use a good platinum alloy and she takes care of the ring, it should be around to hand down to your granddaughter someday!

Use either 90%platinum/10%iridium or 95%platinum/5%ruthenium.

Is the $2900 quote from someone we know?

 

[Anonymous]

DS, yes he is a seller on here although not known for hand forged. Ill ask about alloys but you think it's better to just save the money and do the cast? I think that's what I'll do. I will let him know.

Anyway I want to wait until the end to reveal who it is

 

[maccers]

We have decided on using that Beverly k ring as inspiration for hers. There are just too many changes we want to make.

I am trying to understand whether this should be hand forged or simply cast. We want platinum as the metal.

The original cast version which I do not want costs $4k.
A jeweler has quoted me $1500 for a cast version which involves cad illustrations and a silver prototype so that i can see the changes i want done before it is finalized.
Leon and Steven are absolutely talented but charge close to $5k.
I found someone else locally who will completely hand forge the setting and prongs for $2900. If it is just the shank that costs $2400.
One of the big pricescope vendors recommended not wasting money on handmade while another really recommend I pursue handmade.

FYI, the side stones are 1.5mm, the metal surrounding it is .2mm on each side so the widest point is 1.9mm. I'm assuming the metal in between each "link" is about .4mm.

So with casting it costs less and I get to see the ring with all the changes I want to make. And with hand forged I pay twice as much, and get better detail and strength. For me the only real issue is worry over durability - is this a ring that I need to make hand forged if I want it to last? Or should I not worry?

Thank you all for your help.

You are saying that Beverley K ring is $4k in platinum??? That is nuts.

You got quotes from Leon and Steven for that exact ring (with better prongs ) and they said $5k??? I can hardly believe that.

It doesn't matter if it is cast or handforged. Either will be fine in platinum. I would not use someone local unless I had seen several examples of their work similar to this up close.

I'm not surprised at the quotes from Leon and Steven. I recently inquired about a Harry Winston-style e-ring (baguette side stones, no melee, no milgrain) and the quotes from SK, LM and VC ranged from 4.5K to 5.5K...ouch!

 

[Anonymous]

DS, yes he is a seller on here although not known for hand forged. Ill ask about alloys but you think it's better to just save the money and do the cast? I think that's what I'll do. I will let him know.

Anyway I want to wait until the end to reveal who it is

I know I said I wanted to wait but since I already spoke about it in another thread i may as well here. It's eternity by yoni. I will post a full review at the end or maybe along the way just to make sure I'm not leaving anything out.

Ds, he said he uses 5% ruthenium. Thanks for getting me to think about that.