International Returns (Antique Colombian Emerald Ring) - Any successful experiences? Please share!

[LilAlex]

Not answering the actual question, but:

The back of that cab is faceted! If it's F2 and just oil, it's really cool.

In the US, I would invest in having a Gary Roe (or similar, if there is such a thing) recreate the upper and lower "lobes" that are hanging by a thread. This is gorgeous enough and was enough of a "bargain" that it could warrant some investment, imo. It was and always will be fragile.

 

[musicalmeow]

@Dreamer_D , @Daisys and Diamonds , @RRfromR , @Mreader :

Thank you so much! Hopefully we’ll soon be able to come to a resolution that works for everyone.

@Rfisher : That’s a great idea, I was thinking about this option too. I’ve reached out to a couple of jewellers to see what they will say.

@LilAlex : You have a great eye! The ring’s GIA report indeed referred to the emerald’s pavilion cutting style as a brilliant cut. As for the F2 treatment, I’m not sure if it’s oil only. I don’t think GIA discloses the type of treatment.



I actually reached out to Gary Roe last week, but he hasn’t replied yet. I think it’s a really busy time for everyone.

 

[RRfromR]

I'm really confused about F2 in an antique ring. I have one from the 20s that is insignificant oil, one from the 50s with no oil and another one also from the 50s with minor oil.
F2 means synthetic resin (but how could that be in an antique item) or very recent oil. Did the seller recently remove the emerald and re-oil it? GIA won't tell you the type of filler used.

 

[musicalmeow]

I'm really confused about F2 in an antique ring. I have one from the 20s that is insignificant oil, one from the 50s with no oil and another one also from the 50s with minor oil.
F2 means synthetic resin (but how could that be in an antique item) or very recent oil. Did the seller recently remove the emerald and re-oil it? GIA won't tell you the type of filler used.

I’ve wondered about that too. One of the jewellers did suggest that the emerald might not have been the original centre stone, because it’s a little loose in the setting and the gold bezel doesn’t quite fit perfectly around it.

I do see GIA F2 emeralds mounted in other Victorian pieces:

Victorian 6.28 CTW Colombian Emerald Cabochon Old European Cut Diamond 14 Karat Yellow Gold Antique Halo Ring GIA

Centering a cushion shaped emerald cabochon weighing approximately 5.02 carats total Natural Colombian in origin with F2 clarity enhancement.

uk.wilsonsestatejewelry.com

Although I don’t know if the above example is a true antique or a reproduction.

Would welcome any insights from everyone, including professionals like @denverappraiser and @oldminer and @Garry H (Cut Nut) ?

 

[LilAlex]

F2 means synthetic resin (but how could that be in an antique item) or very recent oil.

Is that true? Many emeralds get re-oiled but that bezel looks pretty tidy so I thought it was unlikely. OTOH, that ring has seen a lot of major surgery so it's easy to imagine a repairer or vendor saying, "Might as well get it detailed since it'll be in the shop for so long."

I see this from GIA (no mention of oil vs. resin):

 

[musicalmeow]

Is that true? Many emeralds get re-oiled but that bezel looks pretty tidy so I thought it was unlikely. OTOH, that ring has seen a lot of major surgery so it's easy to imagine a repairer or vendor saying, "Might as well get it detailed since it'll be in the shop for so long."

I see this from GIA (no mention of oil vs. resin):

Interesting! On the electronic version of my report on GIA’s website, if you click on a tab under “Treatments”, it mentions oil and resin for emeralds in the comments below:

 

[RRfromR]

Is that true? Many emeralds get re-oiled but that bezel looks pretty tidy so I thought it was unlikely. OTOH, that ring has seen a lot of major surgery so it's easy to imagine a repairer or vendor saying, "Might as well get it detailed since it'll be in the shop for so long."

I see this from GIA (no mention of oil vs. resin):

Only AGL can tell, in the prestige report.
"Within this section, the extent of certain treatments, such as clarity enhancement, will be provided using word descriptions such as insignificant, minor, moderate, etc.
For filling materials used in such gems as emerald, ruby and other gem varieties, the filling material will be identified. A Stability Index is also provided for information as to the general stability of the treatment under conditions of normal wear."

 

[musicalmeow]

Is that true? Many emeralds get re-oiled but that bezel looks pretty tidy so I thought it was unlikely. OTOH, that ring has seen a lot of major surgery so it's easy to imagine a repairer or vendor saying, "Might as well get it detailed since it'll be in the shop for so long."

Regarding the bezel work, yes it’s not too bad, but the emerald does shift slightly in it so the bezel will need to be tightened or adjusted.

 

[RRfromR]

If this emerald could talk lol.

 

[musicalmeow]

Btw, @T L, you mentioned a while back ago about looking at some gorgeous antique emerald pieces in person at an antique show. Would you happen to recall the levels of treatment (if any) that these emeralds had?

I hope it’s ok that I tagged you!

 

[T L]

Btw, @T L, you mentioned a while back ago about looking at some gorgeous antique emerald pieces in person at an antique show. Would you happen to recall the levels of treatment (if any) that these emeralds had?

I hope it’s ok that I tagged you!

No, I don’t. I’m sorry. It was eons ago.

 

[musicalmeow]

Hi everyone, (@Bron357 , @Lookinagain , @Rfisher , @Mreader , @Dreamer_D , @lavenderdragonfly23 , @Rhea , @Christinak , @Daisys and Diamonds , @RRfromR , @LilAlex , @T L )

I hope you’re all having a good week. Thanks again for your support and for sharing your thoughts with me earlier. I have a few updates to share.

I’ve heard back from Gaetano Chiavetta in London, who gave me an estimate of £200 for the repair. He described the work involved as follows: unset the emerald, cut off the broken piece, polish away the old repair and solder it back (using platinum via laser welder), adjust the emerald setting, and reset the emerald. The repair will be invisible when it’s completed.

Here are some examples of Gaetano’s work (the pieces shown are antique inspired, not restorations):

https://www.thevintagejeweller.co.u...etta-8-50ct-cabochon-emerald-and-diamond-ring

https://www.instagram.com/gaetano_chiavetta?igsh=aDhzMWRsczZ1Y2Yx

So far Gaetano is the only jeweller who has replied with a fair amount of confidence regarding the repair. Given his extensive experience in creating and restoring and antique jewellery, his quote sounded pretty reasonable to me, so I reached out to the seller to see if they might consider the option of covering the costs of repairing the ring in London. The seller’s response was as follows: they would rather repair the ring by their own bench (for $30); the jewellers I’ve consulted with (including Gaetano) sound super incompetent; and that the ring is worth a lot more than what I had paid. (I agree that the ring’s price was reasonable, but personally I still believe that the damages should have been disclosed in the listing.)

At this point, I’m wondering if I should continue with the return, or, given Gaetano’s recent quote, to keep the ring and arrange and absorb the repair costs myself (hopefully about £400-£500 in total, which includes shipping, insurance, and adjustments to the quote - see below). For what it’s worth, my husband thinks it’s a really bad idea to keep the ring and take on all the risks of arranging my own repair.

There are shipping fees (to London and back) to consider; due to the ring’s value, insured shipping each way would be £57. Also, I learned that the £200 estimate will likely be higher, after I spoke to Gaetano about other issues I’ve noticed with the ring’s shank (see picture below). Lastly, Gaetano says that his workshop insurance will cover for damages to the ring during the repair, but his assistant’s email mentioned that it depends on the circumstances. So, given the ring’s delicate mount, bezel setting, and the fragile emerald, I will probably need to insure the ring myself (for about £60), but I’m not sure if a typical jewellery insurance cover would include repairs, so this is something I’m enquiring into at the moment.

I’ve also asked several jewellers about replicating the ring, and received two quotes from £3-5K to recreate the platinum mount with old cut stones. A similar-sized 8 x 6 mm emerald sugarloaf (minor oil, uncerted) will be another USD 5k+. A modern replication will definitely be a sturdier piece with less structural issues, however I’m currently not ready to invest this much into a custom piece.

Considering the above, I’m interested to hear your thoughts about what you would do. What are some questions I should ask myself before proceeding with either option (return or repair)? Another concern I have is the hassle and risks of unmounting the GIA F2 emerald from the setting if it needs to be re-treated later on. Having spent quite a lot of time and energy on this ring, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed on what to do next and would really appreciate some outside perspectives.

Here are some videos of the ring (under indoor and natural lighting), as well as photos, which includes the GIA report and another previous repair in the shank that I’ve noticed.

Many thanks for your help!

 

[Dreamer_D]

It's a pretty amazing piece. That sky high sugarloaf is so unique. I've never seen anything like it and the color is amazing. Would be hard to wear and not damage it though. Emerald is delicate and that a pretty high/exposed gem.

Its a hard decision. I don't really trust the seller and the quality of the fix they would do (i.e., what they would consider acceptable), given the past non-disclosure and state of the ring now. But there is risk in keeping it and doing it yourself. A lot depends on your financial situation and whether you can afford to take the gamble. Worst case is the repair doesn't work and you still have an unwearable ring. It sounds like the value would still be there in the emerald. But for me that risk would be too great. I think I would probably return it knowing that I will probably fall in love again. But you would need to accept you will never find THIS ring again. it would always be the one that got away.

 

[RRfromR]

I'm shocked at his prices. I'm ready to move to Italy. His work is amazing. I'd keep the ring and proceed with the repair.

 

[Rfisher]

it’s a really bad idea to keep the ring and take on all the risks of arranging my own repair.

What risks are your vendor absorbing if you go with them?
Are they also going to address the shank issues you mentioned? Do you get a say in what’s an acceptable repair and what is not?

All info in,
This is a not an easy one to weigh out without a crystal ball.

Like already said -
if this is a dream piece you will kick yourself to let go, that carries some weight.
Also - if you maybe won’t be comfortable wearing the sugarloaf due to fear of damaging it
That carries weight too.

My emerald cab is tall and I find it hard to wear without fear of damage. And it’s absolutely no where near the cost of yours.
I get wanting something to own, but not to wear though.

 

[Mreader]

I saw I was tagged may 24 in your update. I didn’t see it so I’ve just now caught up @musicalmeow . Any decision?

 

[musicalmeow]

I saw I was tagged may 24 in your update. I didn’t see it so I’ve just now caught up @musicalmeow . Any decision?

Thanks so much for checking in @Mreader. I decided to continue with the return as it was the least riskiest option. I sent the ring back as soon as PayPal approved my return request at the end of May. The process of shipping the ring back has been pretty stressful as well. It was stuck at the US Customs and was almost sent back to me in the UK until DHL finally got a hold of the vendor in order to formally clear and release the package due to its value. I was so relieved when the ring was finally delivered to the vendor. I’ll come back with an update on here once the refund has been completed. I’ve definitely learned a lot from this process…and I also can’t wait for it to be over!

Hope you are having a good week!

 

[Mreader]

Thanks so much for checking in @Mreader. I decided to continue with the return as it was the least riskiest option. I sent the ring back as soon as PayPal approved my return request at the end of May. The process of shipping the ring back has been pretty stressful as well. It was stuck at the US Customs and was almost sent back to me in the UK until DHL finally got a hold of the vendor in order to formally clear and release the package due to its value. I was so relieved when the ring was finally delivered to the vendor. I’ll come back with an update on here once the refund has been completed. I’ve definitely learned a lot from this process…and I also can’t wait for it to be over!

Hope you are having a good week!

Sounds so stressful! I’m glad it’s back w vendor ! Hope the refund goes smoothly

 

[JPie]

The ring’s journey continues!

Edwardian 4 Carat Sugarloaf Emerald and Rose Cut Diamond Bow Ring - GIA Colombian

This enchanting early 20th-century ring centers on a glowing 4 carat sugarloaf emerald of Colombian origin, mounted in a gleaming yellow gold bezel. Measuring 7/8" in length, the emerald is and perfectly presented between glittering rose-cut diamond bows, nestled between shimmering split leaf...

www.parkavenueantiques.com

 

[Mreader]

The ring’s journey continues!

Edwardian 4 Carat Sugarloaf Emerald and Rose Cut Diamond Bow Ring - GIA Colombian

This enchanting early 20th-century ring centers on a glowing 4 carat sugarloaf emerald of Colombian origin, mounted in a gleaming yellow gold bezel. Measuring 7/8" in length, the emerald is and perfectly presented between glittering rose-cut diamond bows, nestled between shimmering split leaf...

www.parkavenueantiques.com

Wow. That’s a big markup - and they say wear with care but not for the reasons that OP mentioned…

 

[Rfisher]

Wow. That’s a big markup

To be fair - some repair work was done on it.
I mean, wasn’t it $30 or something






LOL

 

[musicalmeow]

It appears that this ring has been sold to another vendor.

Perhaps some work was done by the new vendor’s own bench. The gap between the bezel and the emerald, for example, seems to no longer be there. I can’t tell if the issue with one of the tips in the platinum mounting has been addressed though. In the vendor’s photos, you can still see some soldered metal in that same area, but only the sizing seam on the shank is mentioned in the listing description. However, it’s good that there is a photo showing the back of the setting so you can at least see these details!

I was given a quote of $750 from David Klass, which may reflect a more realistic cost for a repair, if any was done.

Here is the post from where I had originally bought the ring: