Is it worth the risk to work with an international jeweler?

[Cerulean]

I have been on the hunt for a very special reset. I am diligently researching to make sure it is my last reset!

I have found some exceptional designers in the U.S.A. (where I am based) with very beautiful work. I am looking for something unusual, with atypical metalsmithing techniques. For example, repousse, chasing, deep relief engraving, mokume gane, etc...these are the types of things I am finding myself drawn to.

So then I started expanding my search to international jewelers. Mokume gane is a technique that I have admired for a while, and I studied Japanese aesthetics (heck, I wrote my thesis on it!) in university so it feels close to my heart.

Given that it is a Japanese technique that dates back to the Edo period, it seems fitting to work with someone based in Japan. I am also drawn to a lot of Japanese jewelry designs that I have seen versus most of the U.S. jewelers using mokume gane...I am not drawn to many of their designs beyond their application of the technique.

There are two jewelers that I admire in Japan, (there was a 3rd, but they, unfortunately, don't have the ability to ship internationally)

Is it worth it? Would you do it? I have bought a gem from Sri Lanka, but I would have to ship my diamond or negotiate with a jeweler to ship an empty setting. But frankly, I don't really want a local setter messing with a mokume gane ring, as they are very particular and need skilled metalsmiths familiar with the technique to handle

Anyways, ramble over. Curious to hear your thoughts.

 

[Cerulean]

Here is a little eye candy from *one of the designers I am eyeing...

 

[marymm]

Wow I love those designs!

If I could only find what I wanted overseas, and the vendor I wanted to work with was well-established with great reputation and solid customer service I would take the chance ... with the proviso that if the stone I was shipping to them was high value that the vendor would provide the insured shipping label (I know of no way as a US consumer to internationally ship with full insurance an expensive diamond or colored gemstone) ...

 

[Cerulean]

Wow I love those designs!

If I could only find what I wanted overseas, and the vendor I wanted to work with was well-established with great reputation and solid customer service I would take the chance ... with the proviso that if the stone I was shipping to them was high value that the vendor would provide the insured shipping label (I know of no way as a US consumer to internationally ship with full insurance an expensive diamond or colored gemstone) ...

Thanks so much for your input. I will definitely ask about their insurance!

I truly haven't found anything close to the designs stateside! They seem so...Japanese!

 

[YadaYadaYada]

These are so pretty! I haven’t seen anything like this before, what an exciting project!

I have only worked with a designer internationally once, it was Sally from Heart of Water. It helped that the gems I was using were not expensive or gifted but also Sally really held my hand and walked me through it. As long as I was dealing with an established designer who was thorough in their instructions and explanations about mailing and insurance, I would absolutely go ahead.

 

[maru8888777]

I've heard of these two jewelers that are US based:

https://www.instagram.com/arn_krebs_mokume/

and https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnneWolfMokumeGane?ref=nla_listing_details

I have a pendant from the second place and it is beautiful. I don't know anything about the technique... the pendant was a gift. But I love it!

I've also worked with Sally and loved the experience, but she's really special. I love Kataoka's designs too, and I know he's done beautiful custom work for folks on this forum. I can't wait to see your pieces!

 

[Cerulean]

I've heard of these two jewelers that are US based:

https://www.instagram.com/arn_krebs_mokume/

and https://www.etsy.com/shop/AnneWolfMokumeGane?ref=nla_listing_details

I have a pendant from the second place and it is beautiful. I don't know anything about the technique... the pendant was a gift. But I love it!

I've also worked with Sally and loved the experience, but she's really special. I love Kataoka's designs too, and I know he's done beautiful custom work for folks on this forum. I can't wait to see your pieces!

Thanks so much for the recommendations!

The hunt continues…

 

[Cerulean]

These are so pretty! I haven’t seen anything like this before, what an exciting project!

I have only worked with a designer internationally once, it was Sally from Heart of Water. It helped that the gems I was using were not expensive or gifted but also Sally really held my hand and walked me through it. As long as I was dealing with an established designer who was thorough in their instructions and explanations about mailing and insurance, I would absolutely go ahead.

They really are unusual!

I haven’t decided what I’m going to do yet, but I’m exploring options!

Thanks for sharing your experience

 

[maru8888777]

Thanks so much for the recommendations!

The hunt continues…

No problem! I know earth's treasury works with the first jeweler (or they've set their stones). The techniques are amazing!

 

[Cerulean]

No problem! I know earth's treasury works with the first jeweler (or they've set their stones). The techniques are amazing!

I had come across Arn’s work before, but I didn’t know that! Very cool

 

[yssie]

Sure. I would. I have.
Make sure your stone is insured, have the vendor send you a label (or solicit an independent appraiser's assistance), and prepare to not sleep for a week or two.
It was worth it (to me).

 

[Matata]

Here is a little eye candy from *one of the designers I am eyeing...

Those are gorgeous. With the state of the world due to covid -- shipping and supply problems -- I wouldn't feel confident working with an oversees jeweler at this point in time. Have you looked at Krikawa? They do custom work and perhaps could meet your requirements.

 

[Cerulean]

Sure. I would. I have.
Make sure your stone is insured, have the vendor send you a label (or solicit an independent appraiser's assistance), and prepare to not sleep for a week or two.
It was worth it (to me).

Thank you for your insights!

I need to look into insurance. My diamond is insured in the complete ring…I’m not sure if that matters.

Im hoping to work with a vendor who can at least help me navigate it!

 

[Cerulean]

Those are gorgeous. With the state of the world due to covid -- shipping and supply problems -- I wouldn't feel confident working with an oversees jeweler at this point in time. Have you looked at Krikawa? They do custom work and perhaps could meet your requirements.

Luckily I’m not in a rush to complete the project, I would wait at least 6 months from now (although…who knows if things will be better or worse)

I love Krikawa! It’s a great suggestion. Their style of mokume gane doesn’t make my heart flutter in the same way. It looks like an “appliqué” that is held in by rails of metal, whereas I like the domed bands that are the layers of metal all the way through (sometimes they are lined)

I know it’s nitpicky, but I have considered another design of theirs that I really like with Sakura blossoms!

Eye candy for onlookers (something like the top set)

 

[lovedogs]

I would do it if the design I wanted wasn't available in the US. But as others said, I would need to be confident in shipping and would want an insured shipping label.

I looooove the eye candy pics
Do you mind sharing vendor names? I love more eye candy

 

[Cerulean]

I would do it if the design I wanted wasn't available in the US. But as others said, I would need to be confident in shipping and would want an insured shipping label.

I looooove the eye candy pics
Do you mind sharing vendor names? I love more eye candy

I don’t mind at all!

The ones I really wanted were these guys, I absolutely love the Sakura blossom mokume gane rings but they only accept diamonds that are hand delivered to their shop in Japan:

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I’ve sent inquiries to them:

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And I’m also looking at this store in Hong Kong - I love the designs by Labro (he’s based in Japan) but they carry a lot of designers I admire and everything is just meticulous and totally my style!

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[MillieLou]

I have bought a gem from Sri Lanka, but I would have to ship my diamond or negotiate with a jeweler to ship an empty setting. But frankly, I don't really want a local setter messing with a mokume gane ring, as they are very particular and need skilled metalsmiths familiar with the technique to handle

Two things to consider from this:

1. Rings in particular will often need adjustments, especially if frequently worn. Sizing up and down. Bezels and prongs may need tightening. Small adjustments. I seem to recall you, like me, are kind of fussy about how rings feel and fit (I 100% get it!) Would you have a jeweller in the US who you trusted to work on the ring? This differs to eg a pendant which is one size fits all and doesn't take the wear of a ring.

2. This may or may not apply to you depending on tax arrangements where you are, but: Look carefully into whether you would need to pay tax on full customs value on the whole ring (including diamond) when it comes back into the country. You probably would in the UK. While there may technically be ways of getting around this / claiming back, look closely at how successful they are, or be prepared to pay a lot of tax.

Random idea but would you consider waiting until you could actually visit Japan to hand deliver your diamond to the people you really want, so you could have it made, checked, adjusted and fit exactly how you want?

Edit: just to say I think the designs are stunning, you clearly understand Japanese art and authentic techniques, and you shouldn't settle for anything less than what you really want

 

[musicloveranthony]

George Sawyer in Minneapolis might be worth exploring

 

[Cerulean]

Two things to consider from this:

1. Rings in particular will often need adjustments, especially if frequently worn. Sizing up and down. Bezels and prongs may need tightening. Small adjustments. I seem to recall you, like me, are kind of fussy about how rings feel and fit (I 100% get it!) Would you have a jeweller in the US who you trusted to work on the ring? This differs to eg a pendant which is one size fits all and doesn't take the wear of a ring.

2. This may or may not apply to you depending on tax arrangements where you are, but: Look carefully into whether you would need to pay tax on full customs value on the whole ring (including diamond) when it comes back into the country. You probably would in the UK. While there may technically be ways of getting around this / claiming back, look closely at how successful they are, or be prepared to pay a lot of tax.

Random idea but would you consider waiting until you could actually visit Japan to hand deliver your diamond to the people you really want, so you could have it made, checked, adjusted and fit exactly how you want?

Edit: just to say I think the designs are stunning, you clearly understand Japanese art and authentic techniques, and you shouldn't settle for anything less than what you really want

Your first point is my biggest concern! I know mokume gane is not something most jewelers can manage, as it combines metals that require heating at different temperatures. Even a simple adjustment could be a disaster. I think working with a jeweler I could comfortably ship to would be necessary should I pursue this option.

And #2 didn’t occur to me! That could be hefty. I will definitely look into this.

Thanks so much for your input. Really helpful!

 

[Cerulean]

George Sawyer in Minneapolis might be worth exploring

Great recommendation, thank you! His work is beautiful!

 

[musicloveranthony]

Great recommendation, thank you! His work is beautiful!

He's closed his retail shop, but I've seen him still working in the studio. I think he's focusing on custom pieces, now

 

[seaurchin]

This may not be helpful but it stood out to me so thought I'd say it anyway just in case. I personally don't usually care for "irregular" design details in small jewelry pieces. When those details are too tiny to make out at typical viewing distance, to me, they tend to just look kind of blobby or messy when the jewelry is being worn. I'd go for an overall pattern instead or get a piece large enough that those tiny details can be easily discerned at typical viewing distance (for ex., a large pendant). JMHO.

 

[Cerulean]

This may not be helpful but it stood out to me so thought I'd say it anyway just in case. I personally don't usually care for "irregular" design details in small jewelry pieces. When those details are too tiny to make out at typical viewing distance, to me, they tend to just look kind of blobby or messy when the jewelry is being worn. I'd go for an overall pattern instead or get a piece large enough that those tiny details can be easily discerned at typical viewing distance (for ex., a large pendant). JMHO.

It’s a fair point! I have contemplated just a plain mokume gane piece as well that doesn’t include the “impressions” of the example pieces. I do like intricacy, but at a certain point I don’t want it to look visually confusing.

I can’t say I’d wear a large pendant like this, but I do see your point!

 

[Cerulean]

He's closed his retail shop, but I've seen him still working in the studio. I think he's focusing on custom pieces, now

That is good to know - I did see his studio was closed!

I also read about Chris Ploof.

James Binnion too, but he’s waaaay out of my budget

 

[lovedogs]

George Sawyer in Minneapolis might be worth exploring

Omggg his designs are amazing

 

[Cerulean]

Omggg his designs are amazing

I know...so good! I worry with retirement though, that "servicing" the ring will pose a problem, just the same as with an international vendor!

Hrmmm

So much to consider!

Also just discovered that Greenlake Jewelry does mokume gane!

 

[musicloveranthony]

Omggg his designs are amazing

I know...so good! I worry with retirement though, that "servicing" the ring will pose a problem, just the same as with an international vendor!

Hrmmm

So much to consider!

Also just discovered that Greenlake Jewelry does mokume gane!

They are SO AMAZING! I've seen quite a bit of his work in person and its just magical!!

Cerulean, that's a very valid concern

 

[Cerulean]

They are SO AMAZING! I've seen quite a bit of his work in person and its just magical!!

Cerulean, that's a very valid concern

I am jealous you saw it in person!

Greenlake seems to have a massively diverse portfolio! I wonder if they could pull something off for me...

 

[Cerulean]

Last bit of eye candy, I’ve been really admiring this setting from Labro

I couldn’t get claw prongs as they’d be too pokey…but I think it’s stunning!

 

[Sprinkles&Stones]

I just checked out George Sawyer’s website and it says they’ve closed after 50 years of service, waahhhhh such beautiful creations!