Is silver less safe for a diamond setting?

[kenny]

Is a full bezel necessary or are sterling silver prongs as safe as gold and platinum?
IOW, is sterling 0.925 silver strong enough?
Is that new non-tarnishing Argentium sterling stronger or weaker than standard sterling alloy?

I strongly prefer the gleaming look of a silver ring that stays polished by being worn every day.
I have a friend who wears one and it always looks like she just got it rhodium plated.

Is it just tradition that prevents silver from being used for diamonds, or is gold and platinum safer.
I don't give a crap about the prestige of the more expensive metals.

I'm planning my next ring.

 

[GemFever]

I'm so glad you started this thread kenny! I'm wondering the same thing myself. I love the look of silver over any other white metal (and also love tarnished dark silver... oh that yummy contrast!), so I'd love to know if diamonds are safe with silver.

I can add that my earrings are mostly made of silver, and the prongs holding the diamonds are silver. But they are fairly thick.

 

[Hera]

I'm sure someone will come by to comment about the durability of silver settings. I know it used to be a preferred alloy a long time ago. Perhaps it's the perceived value of gold alloys, I don't know.

I do know that I have ring made of Argentium and it tarnishes. I wouldn't pay a premium for it.

 

[kenny]

I do know that I have ring made of Argentium and it tarnishes. I wouldn't pay a premium for it.

Thanks for that feedback.

Do you wear it every day, and if so does it tarnish only where it is not rubbed by skin, or does it tarnish everywhere equally?

 

[JulieN]

There is a Stuller alloy called "Continuum."

http://www.stuller.com/benchjeweler/resources/bencharticles/view/learn-more-about-stullers-continuum-sterling-silver/

 

[Hera]

I do know that I have ring made of Argentium and it tarnishes. I wouldn't pay a premium for it.

Thanks for that feedback.

Do you wear it every day, and if so does it tarnish only where it is not rubbed by skin, or does it tarnish everywhere equally?

I don't wear it everyday and it tarnishes equally.

 

[distracts]

I have a few argentium settings, all of which I've had for over a year, and only a few have tarnished at all, and then only the interior of the prongs/basket. And they've tarnished to a light golden color - noticeable by me when I look but I doubt noticeable to anyone else in normal wear situations. Some have been stored in anti-tarnish bags but most have not been.

 

[lknvrb4]

I was going to go this route for a temp setting for my cushion and found a setting I liked by danielM on etsy. I asked him this specific question since he uses this silver and this is his response:
"Argentium silver is not as durable as gold. Is is definately softer. I would say it depends on how tough you are on your jewelry. As Caren has said we've made quite a few pieces of our custom jewelry in argentium and have had no issues with durability"

 

[Sunstorm]

Ah probably too late but Kenny you are right in that silver is one of the best options. My goldsmith who works on crown jewels in my country uses only pure silver and/or pure gold for the setting/prongs of stones since the others are too hard and can damage stones (especially softer stones). Even when he sets diamonds, the inside 1/2 mm is always silver or 24 K gold. For the rest of the jewel we use anything or everything else but the part that touches the stone has to be either silver or 24 k gold. Ah I am enjoying your topics and threads so much, I have joint recently and I have (and have had for a long time) an obsession about FCDs and this is really taking over I tell ya.) I SO understand your passion, I would take a stunning 8 point FCD over a large white any day. To be honest maybe that would be too small if set (if we even care about that) but I want them to be the center piece and I will do that with a 20 pointer. Fortunately though I am really getting deeply involved with yellows at the moment so lucky me, not saying I have no next on my list; go pink, peachy, orange and then on. IRL my favorite color is teal so imagine the ocean green blues, blue greens and I adore green but I better not go there just yet. Hope you do not mind I hijacked your topic and chimed in late anyhow. I had to say something as I have been reading up on all your topics because of the FCDs.)

 

[Karl_K]

I love the color of silver it beats white gold and plat hands down in my opinion.
How tarnish resistant the new alloys are depends on your body chemistry some people the will go a long time others not so much.
Silver is soft and not the best material for setting diamonds in a ring.
In a pendant sure why not.
My opinion sadly is that if the diamond or gemstone is big or expensive enough that its loss will hurt don't put it in silver in a ring.

 

[kenny]

Thanks everyone.

 

[Sunstorm]

This is very interesting to have differing opinions about how to set diamonds. I am not a goldsmith but a gemologist and mainly interested in stones, however, gorgeous workmanship always amazes me. My jeweler is a judicial expert and has been a goldsmith, watchmaker, jeweler, gemologist for over 50 years and he makes replicas for museums and restores antiques such as jewelry from the Roman era. His opinion is that to avoid any problems it is best to have a very thin inside layer of silver in the setting, perhaps I was not clear in that no prongs are silver and the shank is not either, however, to protect the stones there is a very thin layer of silver and then it is covered by gold, hard to explain. All his pieces are handmade exclusively and have watched him make rings for me or my clients. He sets softer stones such as emeralds and opals in 24 k gold but it is only the setting/prongs that are that soft. With diamonds, especially very valuable and very large stones he does this thin layer of silver to avoid any damage which is not likely but of course possible with diamonds too. I guess that if the silver wears off later (doubt it is highly likely since it is covered by gold but do not know that for sure) then since it was only half an mm the rest is gold and it protects the diamonds. Have never had problems with his settings, perhaps it is trying to be too safe and different people work with different methods and materials, different solutions can work equally well. I have to say that his workmanship is really top but I am also aware that especially in commerial pieces silver is not used and surely in other unique handmade jewelry not often either. Thank you for chiming in Karl, I always enjoy hearing about workmanship from the experts. If you have your ring made let us know Kenny, would so love to see one of your beauties set but sometimes I too almost feel badly about setting FCDs, the stones are so special themselves and how to set them to make them the centerpiece of attention can be difficult.

 

[Tourmaline]

Silver tarnishes overnight if it's humid enough. Chemicals can remove tarnish, but they also remove shine. Once this has occurred and you use a polishing cloth to reshine it, the untouched parts will be yellower and more dull than the polished parts. Freshly polished silver is beautiful, but that shine lasts about five minutes. Silver is not as strong as gold or platinum.