Is this real?

[RN2003AZ]

So I’ve inherited this cocktail ring. I believe it to be from the 40s or 50s. It is 10k yellow gold. It has what looks like a good size emerald cut aquamarine stone with 4 small round rubies. What’s the likelihood of this being a real stone? I don’t want to look like a fool when I take it to the local jeweler. Thanks!

 

[stracci2000]

The large stone is probably synthetic.
A genuine aqua of that size would not be set in 10k. I say this because quality stones are usually set in higher karat gold. The side stones could be real rubies or garnets. It's hard to tell from your photo.
It's a beautiful ring!

 

[RN2003AZ]

The large stone is probably synthetic.
A genuine aqua of that size would not be set in 10k. I say this because quality stones are usually set in higher karat gold. The side stones could be real rubies or garnets. It's hard to tell from your photo.
It's a beautiful ring!

So quick update... yes it’s a real aquamarine! It’s a 10x12ish rectangle cut with 4 real rubies. My jeweler was quite impressed. They’re drawing me up CADs now to have it reset. I had 4 small 3mm round diamonds from an old ring that they’re going to set with it instead of the rubies. I’ll post when I have designs!

 

[metall]

Congrats on a beautiful ring! That Aqua has a great presence! Could you show post more photos of the stone's color? The photo you have is a bit shadowy.

Also don't forget to come back with the reset photos!

 

[RN2003AZ]

I would love to but she’s already at the jeweler. I left it there for them to get good measurements in order for the CAD to be designed. When I hear from them next week I’ll get a few more before they dismantle it.

 

[stracci2000]

So quick update... yes it’s a real aquamarine! It’s a 10x12ish rectangle cut with 4 real rubies. My jeweler was quite impressed. They’re drawing me up CADs now to have it reset. I had 4 small 3mm round diamonds from an old ring that they’re going to set with it instead of the rubies. I’ll post when I have designs!

Wow, good news! You just never know with vintage pieces!

 

[arkieb1]

Congrats, it's quite common for Aquas of all colours and other real gemstones like garnets and amethysts to be set in lower K gold.

 

[GliderPoss]

Amazing! Before you reset it I’d also consider a recut to reduce the window...

 

[RN2003AZ]

These are the CADs the jeweler has come up with. As close to the oringal as he can get. Thoughts?

 

[metall]

These are the CADs the jeweler has come up with. As close to the oringal as he can get. Thoughts?

I don't recall if you mentioned this or not, but did you WANT the exact same ring? Were they unable to rehab your old setting if you wanted the same exact thing? (switch out the rubies for diamonds if that's what you wanted) Or did you want this ring remade with different metals?

P.S. I second @HotPozzum's comment about a recut. This stone does appear to have a really large window....but if you're ok with that please do ignore both of us.

 

[RN2003AZ]

I honestly wasn’t anticipating him recreating it exactly. I’ve asked him to eliminate the design around the head and thin down the band as much as he safely can. They don’t feel comfortable trying to fix the oringal setting. And the diamonds I have are larger than the current rubies. The ring is currently 10k yellow gold. I would like 14k two tone to be the same as my wedding set.
I’m meeting with him on Friday for the new design.


For now I’m ok not recutting the stone. I not willing to spend that kind of money just yet.

 

[metall]

I honestly wasn’t anticipating him recreating it exactly. I’ve asked him to eliminate the design around the head and thin down the band as much as he safely can. They don’t feel comfortable trying to fix the oringal setting. And the diamonds I have are larger than the current rubies. The ring is currently 10k yellow gold. I would like 14k two tone to be the same as my wedding set.
I’m meeting with him on Friday for the new design.

For now I’m ok not recutting the stone. I not willing to spend that kind of money just yet.

If you were looking for a different head, did you want the diamonds as side stones or to be set elsewhere? i.e. the basket/the shank etc... Do you like the cathedral set of where the shank meets the basket? I am personally not in love with that bit...also the glat bulby prongs of side rounds are a bit distracting....maybe channel setting those to the side would be better?

For the shank with how large this stone is i imagine 2mm would be the safest size, not to mention sturdiest...he might be able to taper the shank on the underside to 1.8 but thats more for comfort reasons. I almost think that the basket of this is a bit clunky and wide...but it might be the case if you were looking to set the stone quite low.

 

[RN2003AZ]

If you were looking for a different head, did you want the diamonds as side stones or to be set elsewhere? i.e. the basket/the shank etc... Do you like the cathedral set of where the shank meets the basket? I am personally not in love with that bit...also the glat bulby prongs of side rounds are a bit distracting....maybe channel setting those to the side would be better?

For the shank with how large this stone is i imagine 2mm would be the safest size, not to mention sturdiest...he might be able to taper the shank on the underside to 1.8 but thats more for comfort reasons. I almost think that the basket of this is a bit clunky and wide...but it might be the case if you were looking to set the stone quite low.

I do want the stone set as low as possible. Given it’s size it will be difficult.
I agree on the side stones and the bulkiness of the setting. I have asked him to thin things out as much as possible. What are your thoughts if I turned the stones going down vertical instead of horizontal?
Thanks for all your opinions btw!

 

[Bron357]

Hmm, I’m liking the original idea best.
To me it’s about balance. The Aqua is a big girl and the CAD sides with 2 diamonds vertical in that shape setting give proper balance.
I feel if you go horizontal, the 3mm diamonds will look small and lost. I think you would need at least another 1 (2 would be better) each side if you go horizontal to create a balanced look. Two little ones on their lonesome might will look “unfinished”
Just my 5 cents worth.

 

[metall]

I do want the stone set as low as possible. Given it’s size it will be difficult.
I agree on the side stones and the bulkiness of the setting. I have asked him to thin things out as much as possible. What are your thoughts if I turned the stones going down vertical instead of horizontal?
Thanks for all your opinions btw!

I agree with @Bron357 ....there does need to be some balance on the sides....i would suggest axing side stone baskets completely and puting the three diamonds in a triangular pattern into the shank to create a graduated shank. The jeweler could then put one or two smaller diamond under the three diamonds to create flow? or maybe have a split shank and do melees...

I've included inspo photos below....

Split shank with pave and halo (halo is optional but I couldn't find a photo
W. Split shank I liked w.o the halo. ...you can choose to forgo the pave and the halo


Graduated shank....but I imagine you're not going to be able to use the diamonds you have...your jeweler might have to source some other ones....which if he does I vote French cuts!

This option uses your diamonds....please ignore the oval stone...but I for the life of me couldn't find an emerald cut ring w. The three stone sides set in a triangle...for this one I would suggest smaller prongs...the prong work in these photos make me cringe.

 

[RN2003AZ]

New CADS. He said he thinned out the band as much as he can without compromising the ring. I’m debating about the third diamond for the trillion effect of if I could have him taper the band a bit instead.
Thanks ladies! My husband is useless for help on this!

 

[RN2003AZ]

Here’s some photos of the original.

 

[RN2003AZ]

Final CAD design with rounded edges on the shank. I think this is the one I’m going to do!

 

[tkyasx78]

Cant wait to see the results!!

 

[Bron357]

Just a thought, but could you “trade” the rubies with the jeweller for another 2 little diamonds to make 3 on each Side?

 

[RN2003AZ]

Just a thought, but could you “trade” the rubies with the jeweller for another 2 little diamonds to make 3 on each Side?

This specific jeweler doesn’t buy back stones. And not only that but the 4 rubies that are in there are put identical. They’re all cut different and funky. I think it’s the time period.

 

[RN2003AZ]

Update!
It’s done and I’m in love!
These pictures don’t do it justice at all. If I can figure out a way to get better ones I will!

 

[peacechick]

Update!
It’s done and I’m in love!
These pictures don’t do it justice at all. If I can figure out a way to get better ones I will!

It’s gorgeous. You 100% made the right decision to go with the diamonds. Enjoy her!

 

[chrono]

What did the jeweler use to test/verify synthetic vs natural aquamarine?

 

[RN2003AZ]

What did the jeweler use to test/verify synthetic vs natural aquamarine?

They did not test. Under the microscope they were (3people) able to see natural inclusions in the stone which was enough to convince them it was a natural aqua. I’m actually debating taking it to a different jeweler for appraisal.

 

[metall]

It looks lovely and has a great presence on your hand!

 

[meely]

It looks lovely, simple setting that looks classic and classy. I far prefer it to the original setting!