Looking to buy a present for my mother, any advice on emerald & diamond rings?

[Aino]

Dear PSers,

After hunting for the right diamond for my own ring, I cannot refrain from searching for nice stones. I recently realized that I have a perfect excuse to scout out another ring as my mother is retiring this year! So I could buy her a nice ring

She loves green and as she is soon leaving her job as a surgeon, she can actually start wearing rings for the first time in her life! She never actually wore her E/W rings. Hence I have thought to find a ring with an emerald(s) and diamond(s). She also loves antiques so I am looking into buying something pre-loved but still with a modern, elegant look.

So far in my search, I have come across this one. To my eyes the center diamonds look quite nice. The seller says they are H color, SI clarity and 0.4 carats each. The center emerald is 6 x 5 mm, no further information given. The ring itself is 18k white gold.

How does this ring look like to you? The emerald looks very dark and dull but that kind of gives me a better hope of it being a genuine gemstone right? It kind of looks like her shade of green, too in some pictures. Also if I pay about 1600-1700 USD for it, do you think I am overpaying? I am very inexperienced in gemstones and still a newbie with diamonds too. All opinions and thoughts are very welcome and valued. I would love to find a beautiful ring for my beautiful mother.





Thank you!!

 

[Sabrina31]

To me the setting is very pretty but that emerald is too dark. Whats your budget?

 

[Aino]

To me the setting is very pretty but that emerald is too dark. Whats your budget?

Thank you for your reply Sabrina. I thought that the stone is very dark too but I actually belive that my mum might really like it. It's her kind of green. As long as it's genuine. Also the diamonds add some sparkle. But do you think that with this emerald, the rings is not really a good deal?

My budget is about 1700 USD but if I were to find an amazing bargain, I would be fine to go higher.

 

[Sabrina31]

I'm not the best judge of emerald prices, but i wouldnt buy it without more info on the emerald personally. Give it a little time and people with a lot more experience than me will chime in.

 

[Aino]

Thanks Sabrina! I don't really know much about pre-loved value either but a quick scout on JA indicated that the center diamonds (if bought new ...) would already cost about 1200-1400USD hence I thought it can't be too bad initially. Perhaps I could subtly send some images of different colored emeralds to her and ask if she likes dark ones, too

 

[Sabrina31]

If you think your mom may like a darker color, i like this one it feels significantly warmer looking, and its well within budget so you should be able to have it set within your budget.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/561015365/fine-columbian-emerald-70-ct?ref=shop_home_active_1
I havent worked with this vendor yet, but he is on the vendor list at the top of the page.

 

[whitewave]

Check yvonne railey on etsy also.

 

[minousbijoux]

If you think your mom may like a darker color, i like this one it feels significantly warmer looking, and its well within budget so you should be able to have it set within your budget.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/561015365/fine-columbian-emerald-70-ct?ref=shop_home_active_1
I havent worked with this vendor yet, but he is on the vendor list at the top of the page.

Sabrina: are you sure about that? I didn't recognize the name so I checked the vendor list and don't see them on it (apologies if I somehow overlooked it).

 

[Nosean]

@minousbijoux

Jason Brim is on the list - selectgem

If you click on the link the etsy store opens.

 

[Arkteia]

If you think your mom may like a darker color, i like this one it feels significantly warmer looking, and its well within budget so you should be able to have it set within your budget.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/561015365/fine-columbian-emerald-70-ct?ref=shop_home_active_1
I havent worked with this vendor yet, but he is on the vendor list at the top of the page.

Bought many stones from him. Kept most of them, because the prices are unbeatable. Returned some without any problem. He is a very safe vendor. (To me the emerald looks nice and i was eyeing it because it matched another i had, one size-wise, but decided not to try to match emeralds online).

 

[Aino]

If you think your mom may like a darker color, i like this one it feels significantly warmer looking, and its well within budget so you should be able to have it set within your budget.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/561015365/fine-columbian-emerald-70-ct?ref=shop_home_active_1
I havent worked with this vendor yet, but he is on the vendor list at the top of the page.

Thank you Sabrina, that is a beautiful emerald and to me seems great value! I am primarily looking for an already set ring though but that stone is something to keep in mind if my quest fails. We live in Switzerland and to have something set here is very pricey and to send it for setting elsewhere gets cumbersome with deliveries and taxes.

 

[minousbijoux]

@minousbijoux

Jason Brim is on the list - selectgem

If you click on the link the etsy store opens.

I am so so sorry! I didn't realize that he had opened an etsy store under a different name. Of course, Jason is a well known and well respected gemstone vendor.

 

[hobbitfancier55]

I’m no emerald expert but this one from Jeff is lovely. And you know it’s going to be cut well. It would leave you budget for a setting. He has some already designed options but can design you something custom working with a local jeweler he uses. That way you can get everything done in one place.

http://www.earthstreasury.com/product/0-46-carat-ethiopian-emerald/



I’m also in love with this sapphire he has, but it’s above the budget you listed.

http://www.earthstreasury.com/product/3-11-carat-teal-blue-australian-sapphire/

 

[Sabrina31]

I am so so sorry! I didn't realize that he had opened an etsy store under a different name. Of course, Jason is a well known and well respected gemstone vendor.

I wouldn't feel bad, there is no way to keep track of all of the vendors and website changes

 

[T L]

I’m no emerald expert but this one from Jeff is lovely. And you know it’s going to be cut well. It would leave you budget for a setting. He has some already designed options but can design you something custom working with a local jeweler he uses. That way you can get everything done in one place.

http://www.earthstreasury.com/product/0-46-carat-ethiopian-emerald/

That's a really pretty emerald. Emeralds do require special care, and the setting process can make them chip because they have many internal cracks and fissures. I would try to avoid emeralds with any surface fissures, and never ever put an emerald in an ultrasonic cleaner, or use ammonia-based cleaner on it. Some jewelers would do this to an emerald after setting, so be careful who you use. High karat gold, or soft metal is best to set emeralds, unless the jeweler is extremely proficient.

If your mother is hard on her jewelry, or never takes it off, I would not recommend an emerald.

Depending on what you spend, a reputable lab report will it be in order as well to determine the type and amount of treatment. Almost all emeralds are clarity enhanced.

 

[Aino]

Thank you very much everyone for your valuable inputs! I made an offer for the ring under the asking price, thinking that I will buy the emerald Sabrina suggested and replace the dark nearly black emerald of the ring with that one. Unfortunately though, the ring ended up selling for too much so I will keep looking for other pre-loved items. I still have time to find an old ring and if that does not pan out, Yvonne Railey, Jason Brim or Jeff will be the next steps.

It just looks like the emerald/gemstone market is quite a jungle. The prices vary so much and you rarely get any certificates with them so it's hard to feel confident you'll get the real deal when buying an old piece.

If your mother is hard on her jewelry, or never takes it off, I would not recommend an emerald.

Depending on what you spend, a reputable lab report will it be in order as well to determine the type and amount of treatment. Almost all emeralds are clarity enhanced.

Thank you T L, that is very good to note. My mum is quite careless actually. Could easily imagine her getting her ring hit. She drops her phone all the time! She really likes emeralds though so who knows, perhaps she'd look after it.

 

[partgypsy]

I haven't purchased from Ruby lane but love to browse.
https://www.rubylane.com/item/1564545-9050672-3x2ax2a/1-00-CTW-18kt-High-Quality?search=1
https://www.rubylane.com/item/546437-15558057x2a/Vintage-Apco-14K-Rose-Pink-Gold?search=1
https://www.rubylane.com/item/376645-9803/Estate-18-K-Emerald-Diamond-Cross?search=1

 

[Bron357]

I’m the eBay addict.
Found these, located in the US and offered by reputable sellers.
$1,359.15 item no 302603824521
$1,450 item no 202205566327
$1,500 item no 191903494167
All are secondhand (better value I find).
The cheapest one is actual my pick for value for money (middle pic)

 

[Aino]

Thank you Bron, that is so kind of you! I'm getting addicted to ebay myself, too and a Swiss ebay called ricardo.ch.

That cheapest one appears like great value for money, and someone else realized it as well and snatched it! All have nice looking emeralds too.

Can I ask you how you find your peace of mind that the stones on the second-hand jewelry are real and natural? Can you see it in the pictures already or do you take a risk, examine it at home and possibly return it?

 

[Aino]

Now I came across this one. It has got a 2,6 carat emerald (told to be from Columbia), 2 round brilliants and 4 baguettes in an 18 white gold, their TCW 0.4. The middle picture shows some scratch signs on the emerald though or then it's dirt. Also it's slightly more pricey at 1800 usd. It comes with no certificates. Does anyone have opinions on this one?

Thank you!

 

[T L]

Now I came across this one. It has got a 2,6 carat emerald (told to be from Columbia), 2 round brilliants and 4 baguettes in an 18 white gold, their TCW 0.4. The middle picture shows some scratch signs on the emerald though or then it's dirt. Also it's slightly more pricey at 1800 usd. It comes with no certificates. Does anyone have opinions on this one?

Thank you!

Those scratches could be surface fissures. Visible surface fissures on the table affect the value of any emerald. I'm also a firm believer of seeing emeralds in person before you make a final decision. They are the worst gems in the world to photograph properly. It's even difficult for this forum to judge them properly from photographs, especially without a full lab report.

 

[Aino]

Those scratches could be surface fissures. Visible surface fissures on the table affect the value of any emerald. I'm also a firm believer of seeing emeralds in person before you make a final decision. They are the worst gems in the world to photograph properly. It's even difficult for this forum to judge them properly from photographs, especially without a full lab report.

Thanks for you input T L.

Seems like the only reasonable approach. At least the item should have a return policy so I could inspect it at home/take it to a gemologist. I got so excited at the prospect of hunting a pre-loved ring for my mother thinking that'll be like diamond hunting but it turns out to be a totally different ball game. Fascinating but way more challenging.

 

[T L]

At least the item should have a return policy so I could inspect it at home/take it to a gemologist.

Exactly, and the vendor should be very trustworthy and reliable. Emeralds are one of the most difficult gems to buy because of a myriad of treatment and the amount and type used. Some treatment is unstable as well and the emerald could look worse over time.

I also suggest that if your mother wears it all the time, that she take it off to wash her hands or shower/bathe. Ammonia and other chemicals in soap can affect some types of treatment on these stones. If she really loves green, maybe a green garnet (tsavorite) would be a better alternative. They're not treated either and a bit more durable.

 

[chatoyancy]

I am so so sorry! I didn't realize that he had opened an etsy store under a different name. Of course, Jason is a well known and well respected gemstone vendor.

It’s not just you. I only found out by accident. I wonder if the vendor reference list has been updated to reflect the change.

 

[Aino]

Exactly, and the vendor should be very trustworthy and reliable. Emeralds are one of the most difficult gems to buy because of a myriad of treatment and the amount and type used. Some treatment is unstable as well and the emerald could look worse over time.

I also suggest that if your mother wears it all the time, that she take it off to wash her hands or shower/bathe. Ammonia and other chemicals in soap can affect some types of treatment on these stones. If she really loves green, maybe a green garnet (tsavorite) would be a better alternative. They're not treated either and a bit more durable.

Thanks T L, I will look more into the green garnet stones. First glance suggests that it could be a viable alternative. I guess these stones are not hugely popular so if I go with tsavorite ring instead, should I rather buy the stone from a reputable vendor and set it than find the ring used? Time to spend some time studying this weekend

 

[T L]

Thanks T L, I will look more into the green garnet stones. First glance suggests that it could be a viable alternative. I guess these stones are not hugely popular so if I go with tsavorite ring instead, should I rather buy the stone from a reputable vendor and set it than find the ring used? Time to spend some time studying this weekend

It's always better to buy the stone first, that way is easier. Ive bought settings that I have absolutely loved, but I could never find a stone to fit them.

Tsavorite is not as popular as emerald because it's not as famous/well known, and it's only a one location deposit, making it rare. I absolutely love and adore fine Colombian emeralds, but they're not for everyone, especially people hard on their jewelry, and they can be pricey, and risky to buy. You also don't need a lab report for a tsavorite. just go to a very reputable vendor to purchase one. They are also easier to set then emeralds. I had one set in platinum once, the jeweler knocked out some surface fracture resin, making a chip in the stone. Some of the fractures can be prone to dislodge filler upon hard knocks.

 

[Bron357]

Thank you Bron, that is so kind of you! I'm getting addicted to ebay myself, too and a Swiss ebay called ricardo.ch.

That cheapest one appears like great value for money, and someone else realized it as well and snatched it! All have nice looking emeralds too.

Can I ask you how you find your peace of mind that the stones on the second-hand jewelry are real and natural? Can you see it in the pictures already or do you take a risk, examine it at home and possibly return it?

It depends on the gem, with emeralds it’s usually easy to tell from a photo if they are synthetic or not. The other sign is gold content, 10k is definitely more likely to contain synthetics than 14k or 18k. Hardest gem to pick as natural or synthetic is blue sapphire, but again, if it looks too perfect it’s likely synthetic. If you buy from an eBay business seller (a lot of sellers are actually also bricks and mortar stores expanding their reach for clients) you are usually safe. Always carefully read the listing and ask the seller questions or for more photos if you need more information. I actually buy on eBay the “other way”, I look for rings that might contain real gems but are listed incorrectly (usually by private sellers selling an inherited piece). My latest “score” was from a pawnbroker - “Stirling (sic) silver, blue stone -$20”. What a goose, the ring was actually hallmarked for gold and contained a pretty blue sapphire.
So before you buy on eBay, check all the photos and read ALL the description and terms (are returns accepted for change of mind or not?) Unless you’re “brave”, stick with business style seller with high feedback numbers and high % feedback (if less than 99% actually read the negative feedback comments for the “problem” and who made them) I tend to disregard any comment made by a buyer with less than 20 feedback, their expectations are usually unreasonable). My favourite was a “scathing comment” about the diamond being “way too tiny” and how deceitful the seller was- It was clearly listed and described as being 10 points, and it was $100. Look for signs of quality (14k, 18k) and a well made setting. If not your size, remember re sizing costs extra money and not all styles are resizable more than 1 or 2 sizes.

 

[kenny]

Can I ask you how you find your peace of mind that the stones on the second-hand jewelry are real and natural?

When it comes to colored stones the only way I'd have peace of mind adequate for me to pull out my VISA card is a report from a reputable lab like AGL.
For FCDs, it's GIA.
I'm a trust but verify kinda guy; I'm not a risk taker with my hard-earned money.

Some people just trust, but I have no idea how/why they can.
They just do, as people vary.

Then, others are the type who want to believe in the word of a seller, or take it on faith.
Still others just have a lower bar when it comes to how important it is to them whether or not a report-less gem is real or untreated.

You sound like me, a person who must be as sure as possible so I'm confused why you're even considering report-less gems.

 

[T L]

To Bron357's comment above about telling synthetic emeralds from a photo, it's not that clear cut. They make extremely convincing synthetics and doublets that look natural and photograph that way. These stones have inclusions like natural gems.

However, if the gem is super clean, even in a photo, that is suspect.

 

[Aino]

It's always better to buy the stone first, that way is easier. Ive bought settings that I have absolutely loved, but I could never find a stone to fit them.

Tsavorite is not as popular as emerald because it's not as famous/well known, and it's only a one location deposit, making it rare. I absolutely love and adore fine Colombian emeralds, but they're not for everyone, especially people hard on their jewelry, and they can be pricey, and risky to buy. You also don't need a lab report for a tsavorite. just go to a very reputable vendor to purchase one. They are also easier to set then emeralds. I had one set in platinum once, the jeweler knocked out some surface fracture resin, making a chip in the stone. Some of the fractures can be prone to dislodge filler upon hard knocks.

Thank you T L for both comments, sounds like I need to rein in my second-hand/ebay/ricardo addiction a bit. At least till I have learnt more and familiarized myself with the reputable vendor list here. Didn't see any German/Austrian/Swiss vendors though. I was thinking of exploring the market here in my new home region but might not be the best starting point.

It depends on the gem, with emeralds it’s usually easy to tell from a photo if they are synthetic or not. The other sign is gold content, 10k is definitely more likely to contain synthetics than 14k or 18k. Hardest gem to pick as natural or synthetic is blue sapphire, but again, if it looks too perfect it’s likely synthetic. If you buy from an eBay business seller (a lot of sellers are actually also bricks and mortar stores expanding their reach for clients) you are usually safe. Always carefully read the listing and ask the seller questions or for more photos if you need more information. I actually buy on eBay the “other way”, I look for rings that might contain real gems but are listed incorrectly (usually by private sellers selling an inherited piece). My latest “score” was from a pawnbroker - “Stirling (sic) silver, blue stone -$20”. What a goose, the ring was actually hallmarked for gold and contained a pretty blue sapphire.
So before you buy on eBay, check all the photos and read ALL the description and terms (are returns accepted for change of mind or not?) Unless you’re “brave”, stick with business style seller with high feedback numbers and high % feedback (if less than 99% actually read the negative feedback comments for the “problem” and who made them) I tend to disregard any comment made by a buyer with less than 20 feedback, their expectations are usually unreasonable). My favourite was a “scathing comment” about the diamond being “way too tiny” and how deceitful the seller was- It was clearly listed and described as being 10 points, and it was $100. Look for signs of quality (14k, 18k) and a well made setting. If not your size, remember re sizing costs extra money and not all styles are resizable more than 1 or 2 sizes.

Wow that was an excellent score! Congrats. That must be super interesting way of finding your deals. I'm originally from the Nordics and I must have some Viking/hunter DNA in me as I find ebaying or wandering through second-hand shops very addictive . Just the idea of finding that great bargain. Great tips, thanks Bron! But I feel like it's time to take a step back, learn a bit more and try again when I'm armed with more knowledge. My mum loves antique searching too, so I'm sure she would appreciate my efforts.

Already diamonds are tricky buying pre-loved as I noticed one vendor selling gorgeous diamond rings with 1 carat plus diamonds for peanuts. Then going through his other items I found he's selling certified loose diamonds too. In one of the pictures he had forgotten to cover the comment section though. Turned out that that stone - and most certainly all others from him - were clarity enhanced! No wonder it sounded way too good.

When it comes to colored stones the only way I'd have peace of mind adequate for me to pull out my VISA card is a report from a reputable lab like AGL.
For FCDs, it's GIA.
I'm a trust but verify kinda guy; I'm not a risk taker with my hard-earned money.

Some people just trust, but I have no idea how/why they can.
They just do, as people vary.

Then, others are the type who want to believe in the word of a seller, or take it on faith.
Still others just have a lower bar when it comes to how important it is to them whether or not a report-less gem is real or untreated.

You sound like me, a person who must be as sure as possible so I'm confused why you're even considering report-less gems.

Good question. I just love the hunt. It's very exciting and addictive. But it is weird as personally I'm quite risk-adverse. So perhaps the best combination for me is ebaying but with a vendors that have return policies. But that'll come later when I've learnt more.

I loved looking for my diamond and trying to find a good one but at the same time I knew I can never make a great deal. The big trustworthy vendors will always have large margins. But with that diamond, I wanted to be certain so I rather paid for the security. Now I am searching for other purposes. Mostly to satisfy my cravings that are worsened due to lack of antique/second-hand shops in my new home country