Meet Beverly

[prs]

Thanks for the link. Did I do this right? If so, it’s about 1.50 but who knows? I think the odd faceting was for uniformity of color, but then again, many many things in life can be explained by the wide availability of Guinness in the 19th century.

I have always found this carat weight calculator to be very accurate, and yes, you did the calculation correctly. However for an "oval faceted" stone the calculation assumes a typical shape for crown and pavilion. Your marvelous sapphire is far from typical. Maybe a cabochon cut might more accurately represent the shape of your stone?

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Maybe a cabochon cut might more accurately represent the shape of your stone?

Thank you for telling me that!
I‘m very uneducated about colored stones, but I would be happy with a 2ct diamond! So maybe 2.02ct sapphire should be ok as well? At any rate, you are 100% correct that this stone is far from typical

 

[LD]

Hello Beverly!!!! I've noticed you're in the UK and there is a really fantastic lapidarist in Liverpool - whose name escapes me! I've just tried to do a quick search and came up blank but it could be somebody with BK or DK or something like that in the name??? I'll continue to look but if I were you, I'd leave well alone. The stone's little quirks are part of its history!

This wasn't who I was thinking of but they are UK based and I bet they could suggest somebody: https://www.topgem.co.uk/

 

[PreRaphaelite]

I found a ring with the same gold color, and a very very similar stone. What does the committee think of this, please?

Antique Unheated Sapphire Intaglio Ring

An exceptionally rare signet seal ring set with a natural unheated sapphire. The gorgeous gemstone has an intricately carved with a crowned coat of arms.

ejmama.com

 

[LD]

I found a ring with the same gold color, and a very very similar stone. What does the committee think of this, please?

Antique Unheated Sapphire Intaglio Ring

An exceptionally rare signet seal ring set with a natural unheated sapphire. The gorgeous gemstone has an intricately carved with a crowned coat of arms.

ejmama.com

Does your sapphire have engraving marks on the sapphire? Unless it has those then I don't think it would be called an Intalgio. It's definitely a signet ring but not sure that I would call it a seal ring (which would also have engraving on it - possibly a family crest or something like that. A seal ring was typically used with wax to seal letters.

The sapphire in your ring is what's called a "native" cut (sorry that term is not commonly used but as a descriptor it does help to differentiate from a precision cut). Basically a native cut is something that hasn't been cut with symmetrical facets. A native cut is often done to preserve carat weight. It sometimes sacrifices how the gemstone will perform (because the cut doesn't allow maximum bounce of light off the facets). I imagine your sapphire being cut in a smoke atmosphere for a gentleman to wear on his pinky to attract attention. It's a pretty ring and full of history. If she were mine, I would wear it with pride x

 

[PreRaphaelite]

With the benefit of more research, I think it is a blank, a stone that was meant to have an intaglio but ultimately never got one.

I believe the cut was meant to provide uniformity of color, rather than to maximise weight. It wasn’t designed to sparkle, as that would only make the intaglio design harder for the eye to see, defeating the purpose of the ring. While cameos need distinct layers into which the design is carved, relief carving needs the opposite, from what I understand. The Glyptic (engraver artist) prefers an even base upon which to carve, as the depth of the engraving will dramatically affect the resulting color, which makes the motif *easier* to see. Apparently the contrast between base and lacuna holds the magic.

One detail that had escaped me until I learned about the carving process was that, whether in contemporary work or done in antiquity, the Glyptic largely flies blind as they carve. The stone is quite obscured with oil and water, in addition to carving slurry. Can you imagine how difficult this would be on any soft stone base such as carnelian, and how much more difficult it is to carve a harder and more fragile stone such as sapphire!

Katerina Perez | Know Your Jewels: 10 interesting facts about Intaglio gemstones

Read this article to discover 10 interesting facts about rare gem carvings called 'intaglio'. See some rare, museum-quality example of intaglio

www.katerinaperez.com

I’m finding lots of carved intaglio rings online which all have the same top as Beverly, but with various Motifs added. It’s wonderful to think of the possibilities going forward! Even if she’s left alone entirely, this has been so interesting to read about thanks to the info shared by the Getty, and Skinner, and the Victoria & Albert. I’ll add more links soon.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

I wish I did know - it's an odd cut and I'm not a colored stone person so I can't guess. But, do ya wanna see the outlines of the asymmetry?

Beverly kust rocketed up my preferred name list !
amazingly beautiful

enjoy each other's company for ever

 

[LD]

It might be worth doing a bit more research because I don’t think the stone was ever intended as a seal or intaglio. The reason I’m saying that is because it’s faceted. If the stone had a flat top then maybe but this is far more the style of a fancy signet ring. If you look at old diamonds (cut without the use of constant electricity or great lighting) you get diamonds that have been cut in a similar way. This is more so if it was made in England as signet rings were very much en vogue at that time. Will you be wearing it every day? Is it chunky or would it be a great pinky ring which is how it probably would have been worn.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

got to wonder about its past life and all its seen and done ....

i love pinky rings and signet rings
this is a beauty

 

[LD]

So the table is flat???? On the photos if looked faceted!

 

[PreRaphaelite]

So the table is flat???? On the photos if looked faceted!

The table is indeed flat (with a chamfered edge, which is typical for intaglios) and the facets you‘ve seen are the pavilion - and visible through the table because the stone is quite clear.

 

[RunningwithScissors]

Oh WOW!

Hell-o Beverly!

How fun to not only have a beautiful ring but also a research project/romantic mystery.

Not only is that blue pretty incredible, but I also love the patination the gold has taken on over time.

Mmmm...scrumptious!

 

[prs]

Thank you for telling me that!
I‘m very uneducated about colored stones, but I would be happy with a 2ct diamond! So maybe 2.02ct sapphire should be ok as well? At any rate, you are 100% correct that this stone is far from typical

I had a feeling you'd like this result, and yes, a 2.02ct sapphire should do very nicely indeed!

 

[Polyhex]

Does Beverly have crown facets crowded around the edge of the table? It looks like she does in the profile shots. This is the sapphire I mentioned, taken from a broken late 19th century Russian cigarette case. It has an enormous super flat table with the crown facets crowded in around the edges of the table. The pavilion is asymmetrical. It has basically every sapphire inclusion known to nature. A bit less saturated in person. Haven't decided what to do with it. Reminds me of a wonkier Beverly!

 

[PreRaphaelite]

What a gorgeous stone! I’d love to see her in a massive cocktail ring like this (but with deep yellow gold, as the Russians like):

Jewels New York Tuesday, April 29, 2014 | Phillips

View An Important Unheated Ceylon Sapphire and Diamond Ring by sold at Jewels on New York 30 April 2014 10am. Learn more about the piece and artist, and its final selling price.

www.phillips.com

Please never let her go! I wonder if she could be polished to be slightly more symmetrical? I’ve never done it, have you?

ps- Beverly doesn’t have crown faceting as distinct like yours; more of a soft chamfer with some angles.... hard to describe

 

[Bluemuse]

I can see why you think your stone was intended for an intaglio carving because of the distinct chamfered edge and entirely flat top. The intaglio rings I’ve looked at seem to have those exact features, so it seems very plausible.
It also seems possible that it is simply a table cut sapphire which you see often in Georgian pieces.

If you search Georgian sapphire ring or flat cut/table cut sapphire ring you’ll see some examples that are similar to yours, uncarved. On Georgian pieces often the underside of the stone is backed with metal.

I think the color of your stone and the gold setting are exceptionally beautiful. Enjoy being her new caretaker!

My table cut sapphire is quite old and an example of what I was describing.
No distinct chamfered edge like yours though, a minor bit of faceting around the edge and underside.
Pics in case it helps..

 

[Bluemuse]

Does Beverly have crown facets crowded around the edge of the table? It looks like she does in the profile shots. This is the sapphire I mentioned, taken from a broken late 19th century Russian cigarette case. It has an enormous super flat table with the crown facets crowded in around the edges of the table. The pavilion is asymmetrical. It has basically every sapphire inclusion known to nature. A bit less saturated in person. Haven't decided what to do with it. Reminds me of a wonkier Beverly!

Gorgeous sapphire @Polyhex ! Looks like an untreated Ceylon to me! Just has that look. I would definitely wanting to be enjoying her in a ring! What are the dimensions? It looks very sizable. It’s really fun to see more antique sapphires.

 

[stracci2000]

I just love all these wild and wacky sapphires!
I say poo-poo to all the perfect cut Kashmir colored popinjays!
I'm more attracted to the underdogs!

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Well, you know what they say, “Never ignore a Pooh-Pooh!”

 

[PreRaphaelite]

@Polyhex what about setting your stone thusly?

Cultured pearl necklace with antique sapphire & diamond clasp - Furr & Co

The two-row necklace of Japanese cultured pearls, 8.5-9 mm diameter, strung to a mid-19th century antique sapphire and diamond cluster converted to a clasp.

www.furrandco.co.uk

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Here’s another one, slightly later in make, but with the same chamfer. I don’t know whether ‘Burma Sapphire’ is more desirable than Ceylon, or indeed if that is the same thing? Anyway, it loses something when set in platinum, somehow. But I suppose the inter-war era changed aesthetic taste. Photo cropped for detail.


source:

Cartier Art Deco Burma Sapphire Platinum Signet Ring at 1stDibs | cartier signet ring, sapphire signet ring, platinum signet ring mens

View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stDibs - Very rare and unusual sapphire and platinum signet ring by Cartier, circa 1930s. It features a rich blue Burmese oval sapphire, approx. 9.8x8.5x3.3mm (approx.

www.1stdibs.com

 

[Polyhex]

Please never let her go! I wonder if she could be polished to be slightly more symmetrical? I’ve never done it, have you?

Thank you! Yes I am likely going to have her cleaned up. I've had 7 stones recut or touched up, and had an extremely good experience with all of them. I will probably ask Jerry Newman to do it.

I am struggling a bit on the setting because while I am all about the over-the-top bling, I think a too-perfect setting could emphasize her warts which are many. She also might need a foil back or cup to look her best as she is very very flat and doesn't return light well. I LOVE the setting on the pearl necklace, I am saving that for further thought!

Gorgeous sapphire @Polyhex ! Looks like an untreated Ceylon to me! Just has that look. I would definitely wanting to be enjoying her in a ring! What are the dimensions? It looks very sizable. It’s really fun to see more antique sapphires.

You are right! She is unheated and untreated from Ceylon according to the gemologist who retrieved her from the broken-beyond-repair setting. She's big but flat as a pancake, 10.4mm x 9.8mm x 4.5mm.

 

[Polyhex]

This cut looks very similar to my wonky sapphire! Beautiful!

 

[LD]

I'm fascinated by your ring because I'm not very familiar with the Georgian style other than in general, so I've been looking at jewellery from that period and it's really interesting that large rings seemed to be the fashion and lots of rings I've found have had large flat tables but keep a small edge showing (if that makes sense). Thought you might like to see this one because it really reminded me of yours. However this one is foil backed - I wonder if yours ever was at any point? Can you see any signs that it may have been?

Georgian Antique Sapphire and Diamond Ring

This early and intriguing antique ring, most likely from Georgian England and bearing a French import mark, glows front and center with a bright-blue foil-backed sapphire flanked left and right with a sparkling antique cushion-cut diamond, the pair weighi

www.langantiques.com

Click on the profile photo one especially.

and look at the cut on the sapphire on this one! They all seem so similar to yours in cut.

One moment, please...

 

[Bluemuse]

I just love all these wild and wacky sapphires!
I say poo-poo to all the perfect cut Kashmir colored popinjays!
I'm more attracted to the underdogs!

So agree, stracci! I’m right there with you rooting for our aged and wonky stones.
They have earned our love and adoration for their stark beauty and for surviving a century or two in one piece. Pretty amazing!

 

[Bluemuse]

Here’s another one, slightly later in make, but with the same chamfer. I don’t know whether ‘Burma Sapphire’ is more desirable than Ceylon, or indeed if that is the same thing? Anyway, it loses something when set in platinum, somehow. But I suppose the inter-war era changed aesthetic taste. Photo cropped for detail.


source:

Cartier Art Deco Burma Sapphire Platinum Signet Ring at 1stDibs | cartier signet ring, sapphire signet ring, platinum signet ring mens

View this item and discover similar for sale at 1stDibs - Very rare and unusual sapphire and platinum signet ring by Cartier, circa 1930s. It features a rich blue Burmese oval sapphire, approx. 9.8x8.5x3.3mm (approx.

www.1stdibs.com

There is a definite difference in value depending on origin. I’m no expert, but Kashmir fetches the highest premium because of rarity. Then Burmese, followed by Ceylon and Madagascar. Within each group are more prized colortones with the added ranges of saturation and clarity.
That’s the super simplified version. I’m sure those with more experience could give a much better primer.

The article I linked gives a good basic explanation of the different sapphire origins.

https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-brightest-sapphires-from-kashmir-burma-and-ceylon

 

[Bluemuse]

I'm fascinated by your ring because I'm not very familiar with the Georgian style other than in general, so I've been looking at jewellery from that period and it's really interesting that large rings seemed to be the fashion and lots of rings I've found have had large flat tables but keep a small edge showing (if that makes sense). Thought you might like to see this one because it really reminded me of yours. However this one is foil backed - I wonder if yours ever was at any point? Can you see any signs that it may have been?

Georgian Antique Sapphire and Diamond Ring

This early and intriguing antique ring, most likely from Georgian England and bearing a French import mark, glows front and center with a bright-blue foil-backed sapphire flanked left and right with a sparkling antique cushion-cut diamond, the pair weighi

www.langantiques.com

Click on the profile photo one especially.

and look at the cut on the sapphire on this one! They all seem so similar to yours in cut.

One moment, please...

I was looking at those very links today @LD. I’ve loved Georgian jewelry for a while now and have a small collection.
I love the romantic aspect of them and how the stones tended to be backed by gold or set in silver to better reflect the evening light of the day- candlelight. Total romance!

 

[Bluemuse]

@Polyhex Despite its shallow cut, your sapphire has beautiful coloration and a nice spread. It is very reminiscent of my larger sapphire in shape, color and all the cool inclusions. I hope you start a thread whenever you begin the process of setting her.

 

[Acinom]

Gorgeous!! What a great color