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Milgrain: Who knew there were choices?

mimi72

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
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194
After finding a match for my original e-ring RB, I am ready to make them into milgrain bezel stud earrings. The inspiration is BDG's milgrain bezels. In fairness, I intended to have BDG make this set. My first stone is one of their original ACAs. Unfortunately, after many months and several emails a matching stone from them never materialized (don't have any idea why it took so long, I felt sort of forgotten about). At any rate, I found a local jeweler capable of thin bezels and fine milgrain, sourced my own stone, and am proceeding.

Choice #1: Milgrain -- where. The only way I've ever seen it done on earrings is on the edge. My jeweler offered an option of putting it on the sides. I kind of like this, as long as the bezel is very thin, because you get a smooth clean line and then the milgrain as well (I debated a smooth bezel for awhile so I like this look). But, there must be a reason BDG and others don't do it this way? I imagine the milgrain would be less visible, and maybe less fine.

Choice 2: Connection of bezel to post. BGD bezels always have the rounded single u shape in back connecting bezel to post. Never angled/pointy martini shape. Why? My jeweler added a couple of bars to reduce flop -- I'm thinking of having him change this to three bars and straighten them out, angled toward the post, like martinis. For anyone who has BGD bezels, does the u shaped basket sit close and low profile, without flop? These will be my 24/7 wearers. I will get either jumbo backs or more likely le pousettes.

Would love folks' thoughts, but take a couple of looks before opining, as we are usually drawn to the familiar way we're used to seeing thing done. The stones are 1.33ctw/5.6mm/G. CADs are by Adam Foster Fine Art Jewelry, Clayton MO.

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fronts.jpg
 
I know you said to look at it a little before deciding, but I liked the first one more immediately. I think because the height of the crown looks slightly higher. They are both very pretty!
 
I like them both...I'm no help. I could see if you were bezeling an OEC or OMC with rough edges you might want to go with the
second version to distract a little from the edge but with a very symmetrical stone both would look good. I think I would be
tempted to go with the first just because its a little different.
 
First of all, I am BEYOND JEALOUS that you are working with Adam Foster. He is AWESOME. Such a nice dude. Also :wavey: HI LOCAL!!! We are trying to get a local get together going, so if you're interested, Ill bump my thread in the Hangout about it...

That is a tough call. I love the profile of the one on the right but I love the top view of the one on the left.
 
Ohhh beautiful!! I'm loving the first type of milgrain - refined, distinguished, and unique :sun: JbEG's milgrain is similar I think - a row of little beads as opposed to a series of straight lines... and I like both! ::)

Re. the connection of bezel to post - I always specify a rounded head rather than the angled pointy-martini type. The angled pointy-martini sorts settle further into the piercings and I worry about stretching them (whether or not that actually happens!). The bigger issue for me is that I have to really jam the backs on tightly to make the pointy sort sit up straight and perky on the ears, whereas the flatter Us help prevent drooping w/ the backs on a lot less tightly. I like your idea of three or four (two Us) struts better than the single rounded U w/ just two struts as well - to make sure the base of the head is flatter in all directions...
 
Ame, nice to know Adam is good to work with. I haven't used him before but he was great during our initial meeting. I will checkout the GTG post on hangout!

Maeve, tyty, Yssie...thanks for the input. Looks like the first one is ahead right now, and that's the one I prefer too.
 
I love love LOVE the one on the left! I've never seen that done before, and it's really pretty. :appl:
 
I much prefer the one version on the RIGHT hand side.
 
Hi Mimi,
I've been chatting w/ BGD for a while now (with Lesley) about upgrading my studs. My original bezels are .31 each from WF (back when Lesley and Brian were there) with smooth bezels. I'm now looking to go with .50-.60 ea range and I'm interested in doing inside only milgrain. Phoenix did this with hers from BGD and they look awesome. I really like having the best of both worlds.

As for the the back of the bezel, my current WF studs have 2 "bars" that are V shaped and hug the profile of the diamond. These nest more into my ear (but have not stretched out my holes at all). I have pretty small ear lobs so I need the nesting to avoid drooping. Lesley said they can also do the V shape so I will be doing that with my new studs (plus getting jumbo backs). I tried on Tiffany's bezels a few months ago and they do the U shape in the back too. They were .625 each and drooped way too much due the U shaped back.

I would go V shape all of the way. Sorry you had a hard time with BGD, I do love Lesley but sometimes I wonder if they are just too overwhelmed these days because sometimes it would take days (3-4) between responses. Maybe they need to do some more hiring...

Good luck and post pics when you are done! And if you don't mind, can you give us a price range that you've been quoted through this jeweler? Thanks!
 
They are both beautiful, but I think I like to see the milgrain next to the face of the stone best.
 
All I can say is that I have a BG bezel pendant with the milgrain the normal way (one on the right), and it is beautiful! I am not sure I'd want to try an alternate one without seeing it in person.
 
Received new images from Adam Foster, below. Asscher girl, it is good to hear your experience with this shape. I've seen a few pairs of LM studs posted and it looks like he favors this shape as well. I think that's what I'll go with. What do you think about 3 bars rather than the 4? To lighten the weight and improve access for light/cleaning?

Asscher girl, can you tell me or post a pic of what you mean by "inside only" milgrain? I've seen this referenced a few times on PS. Meaning the inside edge only, ie the edge that hugs the diamond? Anyone have an example of milgrain that's *not* inside only??

Won't have a price quote until we decide on a design, and the backs (ie jumbo vs le pousette in plat vs 18k) I choose will have a big impact I think. The rest of the earrings will be in platinum.

Gracias!

earrings_martini.jpg
 
Hi Mimi,
Here's the link to Phoenix's inside only milgrain. The milgrain is closer to the diamond, the smooth edge on the outside.[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/new-bgd-1-4ctw-bezelled-studs-with-inside-only-milgrain.144612/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/new-bgd-1-4ctw-bezelled-studs-with-inside-only-milgrain.144612/[/URL]

What size are your diamonds? I think I missed that. I would go with the least amount of bars possible, I'm only doing 2, that's what I have now. I'm going to do platinum with mine too but probably will do 18 kt WG jumbo backs but may do platinum jumbos, not sure if I wan't to spend the extra money though on platinum jumbos or not.

I'll see if I can find some milgrain (with no smooth) bezels to post as examples.
 
Thanks AG for the link...i was searching just now but couldn't find anything but Phoenix' ginormous 4+ ctw studs. :shock:

Mine are 0.66 and 0.67 ct, about 5.6mm each.

I've always wanted the bezel...but I see many prefer a prong martini setting for stones bigger than .5ct each. Hmmm, maybe I should consider.
 
msop04|1371495181|3467494 said:
I love love LOVE the one on the left! I've never seen that done before, and it's really pretty. :appl:


I agree! and I will admit to not even liking milgrain but i'd love to have that for a set of studs!
 
ok! after staying up way too late browsing through stud earring threads, I think I will go with the u shaped rather than martini bases. Seems the martinis sit maybe a bit TOO flush with the lobe, and basket styles give more definition. Baskets stick out too much for me but the u shapes are probably a nice compromise. Seems as if the backs (jumbo), specifically the careful balance of weight between the front and back, are what prevents droop. That said, many really like their martini settings so one probably can't go wrong either way.

To DS's point, it's a risk with the milgrain on the sides (first one) since we've not seen it done that way ever. I asked the jeweler if he has any finished examples of the mg like this. But I'm leaning this way.

Can I just say that it's such a distinctive first world privilege to be able to fret over ridiculous details like these?
 
Mimi, I am wondering if you have short hair or if you have long hair-do you tie it back? Because I wonder how much you'd see the milgrain on the sides if your hair is long. Since you like the smooth bezel anyway- this might not matter to you. I personally love milgrain and would choose the milgrain on top. I also like the u shaped base.
 
Pinkjewel, I have shorter hair and have a habit of tucking it behind my ears. But that's a good point about the visibility of the side milgrain.
 
mimi72|1371639595|3468551 said:
ok! after staying up way too late browsing through stud earring threads, I think I will go with the u shaped rather than martini bases. Seems the martinis sit maybe a bit TOO flush with the lobe, and basket styles give more definition. Baskets stick out too much for me but the u shapes are probably a nice compromise. Seems as if the backs (jumbo), specifically the careful balance of weight between the front and back, are what prevents droop. That said, many really like their martini settings so one probably can't go wrong either way.

To DS's point, it's a risk with the milgrain on the sides (first one) since we've not seen it done that way ever. I asked the jeweler if he has any finished examples of the mg like this. But I'm leaning this way.

Can I just say that it's such a distinctive first world privilege to be able to fret over ridiculous details like these?

I would agree. Like Yssie said (and I have 8 prong BGD earring that have the rounded cup/basket) the martini's sink in too much for me and I find them floppy. My ear lobes already droop and so I try not to choose things that further the problem. The rounded baskets are very comfortable and a bigger back can also help.

I like the look in the CADs of the milgrain on the sides.
 
You may have had prior experience with the jumbo backs - I LOVE the concept and initially got them for my studs (1.3 TCW) to prevent the dreaded droop. The issue is I have very small lobes and you could see the edge of the jumbo back peeking out under my lobe. There are some midrange backs and now I have those. Best of luck. I love the milgrain example up above on the left, but it's such a personal choice.
 
just on the milgrain around the sides...

my two James Meyer bezel rings have the milgrain running around the bezels and from head on the milgrain definitely shows less at that angle than on my other jewels that have it placed top down

the look is much more subtle (if you can possibly say that about any fine milgrain!) I am trying to find photos that show the look...
 
Heliotrope....wow if you have photos I would love to see them. So hard to visualize the difference IRL!
 
SB621|1371554814|3467924 said:
I much prefer the one version on the RIGHT hand side.
+1 ... I love the look of milgrain around a stone and I don't think that milgrain along the "side" will be as visible (or have the same effect) as it will if it's placed along the "top" (next to face of the stone).

That said, this may be a silly question, but have you looked at the possibility of having milgrain along the "top" AND the "side" of the bezel? I know that in the case of halos, I've seen examples of diamonds placed around the face of the stone (facing "up") along with another row of diamonds placed around the side of the stone (facing "out"). I don't have an opinion on whether that's a good look or not, but just thought that might be an option in the case of milgrain as well.
 
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