Mind-Boggling quest to find my perfect diamond!

[Cinna]

Hello!

I've previously been a serious lurker (almost stalkerish) on pretty much every major diamond forum for months now, and have accumulated so many tips about emerald cut diamonds. First post and first cry for assistance!

My soon to be fiance (as soon as I can find my diamond, which I know is waiting out there!) and I have bought a setting already but he's left it up to me to choose the diamond I want.... with a budget of course

I've been searching and major researching for about three months and have not been able to choose the best for my value. We're looking to buy a loose diamond online with specific specs. I would truly appreciate any help I get in the search! The more I search, the more my mind is boggled with trying to figure out what is the best quality for the value, versus safe website to buy from, the l/w to maximize how big it looks, etc.

I am looking for an emerald cut diamond, from the 1.35-1.5 carat range, with a low height since it is going to sit flush on my ring anyway and I want to maximize my money for how big it looks. Table % and Depth % both under 65%, symmetry/polish vg and up (will settle for good though ) and VS1 clarity or better on a D-F color. I'm a little unsure about the specs for girdle, cutlet and fluoresence. Girdle, I hear needs just not to be near the extremes, and either small cutlet or none. And for fluorescence, I hear it won't be afftected too much if it's faint. And ratio, as long as it's near an acceptable range such as 1.3-1.6, I'm fine.

My budget is up to about $9600, and I'm willing to give way to things here and there since I obviously can't get everything I want for my price. I haven't seen many reviews for people who have bought a diamond from Icestore.com or engagementringsdirect.com because I found the cheapest ones there. I found a perfect diamond but the problem is that it's sl1, which I assume will show too many imperfections on a 1.5 D diamond.

Bluenile, DCD/James Allen and diamondsonweb seem pretty good to deal with but do not have the best prices on the diamonds. The dealer I bought my setting from told me that she will give me the showroom price for my diamond if I come in and order it from her since she doesn't have the specs I want, but I definitely think I can get it for much cheaper online. Diamond prices also seem to be on the rise so I want to get my diamond as soon as possible, so any help is appreciated!

Also, the setting I fell in love with does not have any prongs, but a bar on either side (from the vertical tiny baguettes) and a hole at the bottom for the stone to rest on. The dealer assured me that it's perfect for an emerald cut but I'm not sure how it will comfortably fit an emerald cut. I plan to go back in and ask her, but any tips?

Thanks in advance!

 

[princesss]

I think you''re in a good place, clarity-wise, but I''d say if you''re willing to go to a G or an H (still really white), you''ll probably be able to really hit the size mark that you want. I''d check out Good Old Gold - I know they''ve got real pictures of their stones so you can compare the colours and see if you''re comfortable going to G/H.

Other than that, I don''t have much to contribute. Hopefully Karl_K will chime in. He''s amazing with step cuts!

 

[Cinna]

Would the good place clarity wise be referring to the VS1 or above? Or the one diamond I found with perfect attributes except it's sl1? I'm still debating on the latter because I'm not sure how much the inclusions are able to be seen on that particular diamond.

I've heard that it's easier to tell the difference in color for emerald cuts and you should try to stay with colorless. The jewelry store had a 1.2 H that they showed me for $6500 to go with my setting but it really didn't seem to have any WOW factor. I am more willing to go down in size than to lose clarity/color but I'll check out the G/H's for price comparison. Who knows, I might just find that bigger is better!

And this is the first time I've heard of Good Old Gold, but I'll definitely check it out! Thanks for the tip!

 

[princesss]

Personally, I''d probably stick to VS2 or higher because it is easier to see inclusions in ECs, and for me "mind clean" trumps all.

If you do a search for Tacori E-ring''s ring, she''s got a 1.7ct emerald cut that''s an I. She says in some lights she can see the colour, but in most lights it''s very white. I''ve seen it in person several times and it looks quite colourless to me. Based on what she said and I''ve seen, I wouldn''t go to an I, but I don''t think you could go wrong going up to a G/H.

 

[Cinna]

I''ve actually seen that setting during my research! What a stunning ring! Personally I kept telling my significant other that I wanted a Tacori setting but we settled on spending more money budget-wise on the diamond than the setting.

Started re-searching including G/H''s and a whole new world just opened up!

 

[princesss]

Date: 2/19/2010 4:49:33 PM
Author: Cinna
I''ve actually seen that setting during my research! What a stunning ring! Personally I kept telling my significant other that I wanted a Tacori setting but we settled on spending more money budget-wise on the diamond than the setting.

Started re-searching including G/H''s and a whole new world just opened up!

I''m glad! ECs are hard to pick based on stats, but what I love about Good Old Gold is that they''ve got pictures of the stones they have in inventory, and the staff can look at them for you and give you their opinions.

Also, when you find a few you love if you come back to ask for opinions, don''t forget to put them on hold first! That way you don''t have to worry about them being scooped up while you decide.

 

[Cinna]

Will definitely do!

Checked out Good Old Gold and they seem to have only 3 emerald cut diamonds available and nothing within range. Time to contact them.

OH! That''s what on hold really means. I saw a diamond on DCDs and saw that it was on hold as well. Hmm.. at least I know that it''s a good buy since someone else is considering it as well

 

[raindog101]

One thing to keep in mind is that grading can differ from lab to lab. So whereas one lab might grade a diamond G color, another might grade it as H. Same goes with all the other 4 Cs. What I'm getting at is that you should make sure to compare diamonds that have been graded by an independent third party lab, preferably the same one. That way you know for sure that you're comparing apples to apples...especially since you're planning to buy online, where you can't always get a decent look. Also, it will be much more evident when you find a good deal. Do you know if the diamonds are all certified by the same lab?

 

[Cinna]

All the diamonds I''ve been looking at have GIA certificates, that be considered the same lab as long as they''ve been graded by the GIA right? Or am I looking at something more in particular? I''ve heard that IGI is usually more lax than GIA... or do I have that backwards?

 

[bgray]

stick with no lower than H or possibly and I with some blue fluorescence and vs2. my stone is E vs2. the clarity is more important than the color to certain degree. stick with GOG Whiteflash or James Allen for a fancy cut

 

[raindog101]

All GIA diamonds are graded at one of two labs (one is in Carlsbad, CA and I believe the other is in NY), so chances are that the diamonds you are looking at have quite literally been graded at the same lab. However, some jewelers will sell diamonds that have been "graded by a GIA graduate" or something to that effect--be warned that this is NOT the same as buying a diamond that is GIA CERTIFIED and has been graded at one of GIA's labs. Just something to look out for.

GIA is definitely the authority on diamond grading and they have the strictest standards. They are the only not-for-profit lab so they are going to be the most impartial in how they grade the diamond. Hope that helps!

 

[Lorelei]

Hi Cinna and welcome!

I had a look for you and found this one, its well within budget.

http://www.jamesallen.com/diamonds/G-VS2-Ideal-Cut-Emerald-Diamond-1138539.asp

If you like it, request an ASET image from James Allen.

 

[CharmyPoo]

Two things jumped out at me:
1. What size of a stone can your setting accomdate? Typically - people buy the stone first before they get the setting.
2. The depth and crown height does not only impact the face-up size of teh diamond. It also impacts cut and how nice the diamond looks. You have to balance the depth and make sure it works with all the other measurements.

Sorry - no other suggestions as I don''t know much about emarlds.

 

[Cinna]

Thanks so much Lorelei! I took BGray''s advice and started focusing on looking at stones from Whiteflash and James Allen There are two stones from James Allen that I''ve requested more information about and they''re both in the 1.4/1.5 carats range. Finding a G sont ewould probably be nice but there are few good ones.
To specify, I was looking more at loose diamonds in the $8000-9600 range. I really wanted him to surprise me at least with the stone so I told him that if I picked it out it would be in the higher range of my budget, like around 9k- 10k. But he said okay so I''m lowering it a bit for him to 8k-9.5k but I plan to make good on my negotiation at least a little.

Raindog101- It does help! I would never have known the difference but I will definitely be on the lookout!

Date: 2/20/2010 9:54:39 AM
Author: CharmyPoo
Two things jumped out at me:

1. What size of a stone can your setting accomdate? Typically - people buy the stone first before they get the setting.

2. The depth and crown height does not only impact the face-up size of teh diamond. It also impacts cut and how nice the diamond looks. You have to balance the depth and make sure it works with all the other measurements.


Sorry - no other suggestions as I don''t know much about emarlds.

I checked with the dealer before we purchased the setting and she said that the way the ring is designed that it can accommodate pretty much any size. It can be made wider or smaller. I just keep getting worried about my setting, such as the questions I had about it in my first post... but then again I figure she guaranteed me that anyone can do it so it''s returnable if not. (Even though I love it.)
During my research I haven''t found a real ideal way for myself to balance it without really taking a close look at the diamond. Is there some way that you recommend gauging how well the measurements are balanced?

 

[Lorelei]

During my research I haven't found a real ideal way for myself to balance it without really taking a close look at the diamond. Is there some way that you recommend gauging how well the measurements are balanced?

The best way is to use these basic measurements as a guide, bear in mind there can be exceptions;

depth - 70% or below
table - 65% or less
crown height - 10% or higher

Then the rest comes down to images such as ASET and clear detailed photos in order to get an idea of light return and patterning.

 

[Cinna]

Spoke with my future fiance to be about the stone search and he flat out told me that he doesn''t want me to get a stone that''s below F for color grade. He just made a face when I suggested a G or an H.

So guess that''s a no go. And I''m not willing to go down for clarity, so guess I''m just going to go down in carat size.

But did put in a request with USACERTS.com hoping to get some help

Because the sooner I find the stone the sooner I can get engaged!
With an Emerald cut diamond with similar specs to what I''ve previously mentioned, just wanted to get some feedback:
1. Does faint fluoresence really make a difference in the stone color? Price difference doesn''t seem to be that big if there is faint?
2. Girdle, I''m assuming anywhere from slightly thin- medium- slightly thick is okay?
3. Cutlet, is small something that is okay or even preferred with emerald cuts? Or none is ideal?

And... I found the emerald cuts thread in the show me the ring forum. I am in heaven!

 

[Laila619]

Hi Cinna,

What''s bad about a G? I don''t want you to have to go down in size if you have your heart set on a 1.5 carat! G will still be very white.

 

[Cinna]

Date: 2/21/2010 12:41:30 AM
Author: Laila619
Hi Cinna,


What''s bad about a G? I don''t want you to have to go down in size if you have your heart set on a 1.5 carat! G will still be very white.

You know, that''s exactly what I said, since I said if I can''t tell between a G and an F, it probably won''t make a difference except in cost. But he was pretty adamant about getting a "colorless" stone. He''s one of those once he makes up his mind, that''s the final decision type of person... maybe he''ll change his mind when he can''t tell the difference in person

 

[bgray]

Cinna: we all understand the "mind clean and colorless" problem but honestly a G is a very white stone. Its certainly not a color compromise by most peoples standards. Tiffany sells D to I --for what its worth.

 

[Cinna]

Attached is my setting. I know it's not as extravagant as a lot of others EC settings I've seen on PS but I'm a lover of simpleness when it comes to jewelry and think it's just perfect! I try to put it in the back of my drawer locked away so I don't break the box by opening it every two minutes.

I was thinking about a solitaire ring until I saw this setting. It's an awful quality picture but I promise to make more effort once there is a centerstone in it. But again, no prongs and the hole at the bottom is a bit confusing to me of how an emerald cut diamond fits in perfectly.

 

[bgray]

Cinna: I dont know but unless I am misunderstanding your setting I think it would be extremely dangerous. It would appear that the setting "grips" the diamond only on the sides??

 

[Cinna]

Date: 2/21/2010 1:17:04 AM
Author: bgray
Cinna: I dont know but unless I am misunderstanding your setting I think it would be extremely dangerous. It would appear that the setting 'grips' the diamond only on the sides??

I am not familiar with how it would be set exactly but that is exactly what I was concerned with!! It looks like that's the only support too. I spoke to her about this and the jeweler kept insisting that once the EC stone is set in it that I would have no worries about it. So bgray, you also think it's a bad idea... and she was just trying to sell it? I took her word for it thinking it was a possibility with no problems and was going to go in next weekend to discuss it with her again. They had a great return policy so we weren't all too worried if we changed our minds but it will still hurt seeing it go if it's deemed an impossible setting for an EC.

Thanks for the honest advice, that's exactly what I was hoping when posting it on the forum. I could use all the help I can get, better safe than sorry.

 

[bgray]

Date: 2/21/2010 1:24:40 AM
Author: Cinna

Date: 2/21/2010 1:17:04 AM

Author: bgray

Cinna: I dont know but unless I am misunderstanding your setting I think it would be extremely dangerous. It would appear that the setting ''grips'' the diamond only on the sides??

I am not familiar with how it would be set exactly but that is exactly what I was concerned with!! It looks like that''s the only support too. I spoke to her about this and the jeweler kept insisting that once the EC stone is set in it that I would have no worries about it. So bgray, you also think it''s a bad idea... and she was just trying to sell it? I took her word for it thinking it was a possibility with no problems and was going to go in next weekend to discuss it with her again. They had a great return policy so we weren''t all too worried if we changed our minds but it will still hurt seeing it go if it''s deemed an impossible setting for an EC.


Thanks for the honest advice, that''s exactly what I was hoping when posting it on the forum. I could use all the help I can get.

Well I am not a jeweler but I am assuming that the stone sets in and the ends would stick out with the corners completely exposed. The only stone that I see working for that setting is a square that would fit into the space and be the same size as the width of the head and NOT extend out past the sides. Unless I am completely missing something this is not at all an appropriate setting for many reasons.

 

[Cinna]

Date: 2/21/2010 1:31:34 AM
Author: bgray
Well I am not a jeweler but I am assuming that the stone sets in and the ends would stick out with the corners completely exposed. The only stone that I see working for that setting is a square that would fit into the space and be the same size as the width of the head and NOT extend out past the sides. Unless I am completely missing something this is not at all an appropriate setting for many reasons.

She actually went and placed a 1.2 H EC in the spot and said that that would be how it would look set right after I asked her if it would really be okay. I wasn''t familiar enough with rings to tell her that it wouldn''t work when they were going to set it, just to question her. Honestly I just feel downright silly and upset if that is really the case.

 

[Lorelei]

Date: 2/21/2010 12:34:25 AM
Author: Cinna
Spoke with my future fiance to be about the stone search and he flat out told me that he doesn''t want me to get a stone that''s below F for color grade. He just made a face when I suggested a G or an H.

So guess that''s a no go. And I''m not willing to go down for clarity, so guess I''m just going to go down in carat size.

But did put in a request with USACERTS.com hoping to get some help

Because the sooner I find the stone the sooner I can get engaged!
With an Emerald cut diamond with similar specs to what I''ve previously mentioned, just wanted to get some feedback:
1. Does faint fluoresence really make a difference in the stone color? Price difference doesn''t seem to be that big if there is faint? Faint normally won''t make any difference visually or to the colour grade, you would probably never even notice it.
2. Girdle, I''m assuming anywhere from slightly thin- medium- slightly thick is okay? Yes, but do get expert evaluation should you find a girdle that is very thin ( to make sure it isn''t a potential durability issue) or very thick to make sure this isn''t taking up a large amount of the girdle.
3. Cutlet, is small something that is okay or even preferred with emerald cuts? Or none is ideal? Small is fine, read this tutorial on culets for more information.

And... I found the emerald cuts thread in the show me the ring forum. I am in heaven!

 

[bgray]

Cinna:

Perhaps someone else will post a reply with regard to the setting but I am very confused as to why a jeweler would tell you this setting was okay for an EC. Sorry I am not trying to make you feel bad. I dont quite get it myself.

 

[CharmyPoo]

Date: 2/20/2010 10:09:29 AM
Author: Cinna

I checked with the dealer before we purchased the setting and she said that the way the ring is designed that it can accommodate pretty much any size. It can be made wider or smaller. I just keep getting worried about my setting, such as the questions I had about it in my first post... but then again I figure she guaranteed me that anyone can do it so it's returnable if not. (Even though I love it.)
During my research I haven't found a real ideal way for myself to balance it without really taking a close look at the diamond. Is there some way that you recommend gauging how well the measurements are balanced?

I am sorry to say but no setting can accomdate any stone size - some are more flexible than others. Can you image trying to jam a 3 ct stone in a setting made for a 0.5 ct?

With all that said, do you have a larger photo of your setting? I want to see how it holds the diamond. Are there prongs?

The photos indicate that the setting is not very flexible. I honestly feel that it may limit the size of your diamond selection.

 

[Cinna]

Not at all bgray, I''m had been worrying myself and I just feel silly for believing her against my own judgement. Debating on opening a new thread just to get to the bottom of this.

Date: 2/21/2010 10:30:42 AM
Author: CharmyPoo

I am sorry to say but no setting can accomdate any stone size - some are more flexible than others. Can you image trying to jam a 3 ct stone in a setting made for a 0.5 ct?


With all that said, do you have a larger photo of your setting? I want to see how it holds the diamond. Are there prongs?


The photos indicate that the setting is not very flexible. I honestly feel that it may limit the size of your diamond selection.

To clarify, as soon as she brought it out, I asked her something along the lines of:"I know that the setting limits the range of carat size. What carat size does this setting allow?" Then she said that the way this ring was made, that it can be adjusted wider or narrower to accommodate whatever EC stone I was thinking of. I told her I was hoping for a 1.4-1.5 carat stone and when she placed the 1.2 carat EC in the spot as an example, it almost fit perfectly but had a tiny bit of leeway so just assumed my stone would not need that much adjusting in that case.

No prongs whatsoever.. or from what I can see. As soon as I can find my camera cord, I''ll post higher resolution pictures of it. Thanks for looking into this!

 

[Cinna]

Pic 1

 

[Cinna]

Pic 2

I could not fathom how the diamond would be set into there safely without prongs unless some kind of tension method or such was used but it's white gold so I didn't think that was possible either. But she kept insisting it would be no problem for them.