Minor oil vs no oil Muzo Green emeralds

[icy_jade]

Which AIGS lab? The China one or the Thailand one?

Color opinions are mostly rubbish in many labs... I’ve seen too many cornflower blue and pigeon bloods from reputable labs that look terrible to trust lab reports on color.

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

Which AIGS lab? The China one or the Thailand one?

Color opinions are mostly rubbish in many labs... I’ve seen too many cornflower blue and pigeon bloods from reputable labs that look terrible to trust lab reports on color.

I was thinking Thailand one, I understand that’s the main office though they have office in China as well? Wonder if anyone used their Master Jade report, if it’s worth U$300.

 

[icy_jade]

I was thinking Thailand one, I understand that’s the main office though they have office in China as well? Wonder if anyone used their Master Jade report, if it’s worth U$300.

I heard the China one is more reliable than the Thai one. Generally I prefer other labs anyway.

For jadeite, the HK lab is the best imo. If it’s good enough for the top auction houses, it’s good enough for me.

 

[T L]

You can find unoiled emeralds, but many will be so light in color, you’re sacrificing on color in order to get one. The more chromium, the more deep green color, but that comes with the caveat that chromium breaks up the crystal structure. There will be more fractures, and hence more likely to have clarity enhancement. Other locations for emerald may be more likely to have less clarity enhancement, but those locations produce lighter gems and/or gems with a higher vanadium content, that also produces green hues.

Countries that tend to produce lighter emeralds are:

Russia
Ethiopia
Zambia (well darker, but more vanadium)
Afghanistan
United States (North Carolina)

There are other South American mines that produce outside of the famed Muzo mine, like Chivor in Colombia, and Brazil, but they tend to clarity enhance. I think Ethiopian emeralds, although lighter than Muzo duck neck green, look very similar to Chivor material. Zambian is my least favorite. Russia produces some glowy clean material, but much of it, not all, is very pale. Afghani stones are pretty, similar to Ethiopian in color. I would say Zambian is my least favorite, but there may be some nice examples here and there. I have yet to see a Zambian that glows though.

However, in my opinion, there is nothing as beautiful as an old mine Muzo duck neck green. If you can find an untreated one, that is the Holy Grail of emerald quality, and be prepared to pay a hefty price. Many come up to auction from old collections or sunken treasure. Even Elizabeth Taylor’s famed Muzo emeralds had faint oil (AGL).

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

Thank you for such an informative contribution. Around what percentage of Colombian emeralds come from Muzo, knowing of course that not all will have that vivid “old mine” green?

 

[lambskin]

Query: If an emerald was treated with oil 20 or thirty years ago and has not been re-oiled, will the amount of oil be less on a subsequent evaluation report? Say from originally moderate to minimal or from minimal to slight? How much oil diffuses(?)out? In other words, if emeralds need to be re-oiled over time( and how is that determined?) and they are not does that effect the subsequent evaluation? I would assume that inclusions would be more apparent with less oil which would effect value as compared to the amount of oil. Also, does the amount of oil add significant weight? I’m confused.

 

[T L]

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[Sydneyphoenix]

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That’s a lovely ring!! I understand fine emeralds are not usually set in prongs due to risk of damage, for top-of-range Colombian no-oil heirloom stuff would halo oryellow gold bezel be more popular or appropriate?

 

[T L]

That’s a lovely ring!! I understand fine emeralds are not usually set in prongs due to risk of damage, for top-of-range Colombian no-oil heirloom stuff would halo oryellow gold bezel be more popular or appropriate?

I’m not a fan of bezels unless done by the most skilled workshop.

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

I’m not a fan of bezels unless done by the most skilled workshop.

So halo for best of Colombian emerald?

 

[T L]

So halo for best of Colombian emerald?

No, I think 18k double prongs are best.

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

No, I think 18k double prongs are best.

Wouldn’t that put the sides of the stone more vulnerable to damage? Maybe half-bezel as a compromise...

 

[T L]

Wouldn’t that put the sides of the stone more vulnerable to damage? Maybe half-bezel as a compromise...

Bezels are far more invasive a setting than prongs. Many a stone has become chipped or fractured under the stress of a bezel setting or while being set. Since emeralds have many fractures and are almost always clarity enhanced, I rather prong set with a soft metal, like 18k, but with double prongs for added security. That being said, some people have bezel set emeralds, and love them. It’s important therefore to get a highly skilled bench that specializes in not only setting colored gems, but bezels, so that it comes out okay. Bezels are also often sloppily done, which is something else you need to be wary of.

Here are examples of well done bezels vs a poorly done one.

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

Bezels are far more invasive a setting than prongs. Many a stone has become chipped or fractured under the stress of a bezel setting or while being set. Since emeralds have many fractures and are almost always clarity enhanced, I rather prong set with a soft metal, like 18k, but with double prongs for added security. That being said, some people have bezel set emeralds, and love them. It’s important therefore to get a highly skilled bench that specializes in not only setting colored gems, but bezels, so that it comes out okay. Bezels are also often sloppily done, which is something else you need to be wary of.

Here are examples of well done bezels vs a poorly done one.

That’s such a difference in workmanship! Will toss between bezel vs double-prong vs halo when I do get my “It” emerald; for now will likely go for imperial jade (possible “Elessar” design from LOTR?) or Burmese Ruby, emerald seems more expensive and rarer to find quality stuff in comparison!

 

[icy_jade]

That’s such a difference in workmanship! Will toss between bezel vs double-prong vs halo when I do get my “It” emerald; for now will likely go for imperial jade (possible “Elessar” design from LOTR?) or Burmese Ruby, emerald seems more expensive and rarer to find quality stuff in comparison!

Not really. The excellent imperial jadeite and Burmese rubies are not all that easy to find. Of course, plenty of vendors call their jade “imperial” and rubies as “pigeon blood”.

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

I guess you are correct to an extent given terms like “pigeon blood” and “imperial jade” is subjective but if a reputable lab will put its name down on a certificate supporting the description, hopefully it can’t be too far off. In sites like Leibish, looks like way more rubies certified as unheated Burmese pigeon blood rubies compared to certified no-oil intense green Colombian emeralds...

 

[icy_jade]

I guess you are correct to an extent given terms like “pigeon blood” and “imperial jade” is subjective but if a reputable lab will put its name down on a certificate supporting the description, hopefully it can’t be too far off. In sites like Leibish, looks like way more rubies certified as unheated Burmese pigeon blood rubies compared to certified no-oil intense green Colombian emeralds...

No really, some of the pigeon bloods I’ve seen are really dubious (and from reputable labs). I also started off like you thinking if it’s a reputable lab it should be fine but end of the day I trust what I see in real life more.

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

No really, some of the pigeon bloods I’ve seen are really dubious (and from reputable labs). I also started off like you thinking if it’s a reputable lab it should be fine but end of the day I trust what I see in real life more.

Hopefully I get lucky that the certificate matches the visual, given we can’t travel overseas!

 

[Bojambles]

I think the rarity of oiled vs unoiled MOSTLY depends on the origin.

I admit Muzo unoiled is very rare. However, let's not kid ourselves that Muzo is the only emerald origin. It is still quite possible to get unoiled emerald from Afghanistan, Russia, Zambia. So if we're talking about the rarity of unoiled, the origin and color MUST be discussed, too.

I don't think Ed from Wildish Gems sells emeralds from all origins, so again we should be careful not to extrapolate what seems to be true for one vendor (representing only a small percentage of market share) to the entire market.

For example, the small square emeralds are 0.14-0.18 ct each, from Brazil, minor oil, a vivid duck neck green, and were priced at $3600/ct in February of 2020 because they are the best color quality available.


And in November 2020 I said yes to this Russian emerald, 0.78 ct, unoiled, medium and neon blue-green, for $3000/ct.


Given the rarity of both, I do not believe I overpaid for either. But unoiled is not impossible to find with certain origins, and not necessarily priced above the finer color minor oiled.

Hi Voce,

Do you mind disclosing how / where you sourced these from?

Thank you!

 

[voce]

Hi Voce,

Do you mind disclosing how / where you sourced these from?

Thank you!

I had Enhoerning Jewelry source emeralds from the 2020 Tucson show in Arizona, which is the top photo, and the Russian emerald is sourced from Yvonne Raley of Cecile Raley Designs.

 

[Bojambles]

I had Enhoerning Jewelry source emeralds from the 2020 Tucson show in Arizona, which is the top photo, and the Russian emerald is sourced from Yvonne Raley of Cecile Raley Designs.

Thank you!

 

[Sydneyphoenix]

Given the go with AJS Thailand for “imperial” jade ended with a splat, maybe I should pursue a Colombian emerald for green gemstone, I imagine Enhoerning can find something Colombian that’s no-oil and decent intense colour if one is to commission a gem hunt…