Novice help with ring for experienced shopper

[tailster]

First, thank you to everyone here. I've been reading over the past few weeks and learned a lot, though I'm still sadly in need of some serious help in selecting an engagement ring for my partner, who is much better versed in diamonds than I.

First what I have already figured out. I've narrowed down the design to a three stone ring. Natural diamonds, new cut center round of ~1.5-2ct and ~0.3-0.5ct pear shaped side stones, yellow gold, standard bezel set, essentially the Tiffany Three Stone ring. Color is more important than clarity, but I'd preferable something as clean and colorless as possible. Eye clean is a must, and G or better for color is minimum. Budget is ~$35k, though that can be adjusted as need be. Looking on Blue Nile, I'm able to find numerous center stones which fit the bill at around $15k, and side stones for <$1k.

Now where I need some help. Diamond jewelry seems to attack a huge premium that I'd like to avoid. Happy to have the stone set locally (Boston, MA) or with a company that doesn't mark things up 200%. I'm not sure who to go to however, nor how the process works. Do I purchase the stones myself, and if so, from where? Do I drop ship them to the jeweler, send them myself, purchase them directly from the jeweler / company, etc? How much should I expect to pay for a setting?

Thanks again in advance to everyone, excited to be embarking on this journey!

 

[yssie]

Can you share a photo of the mount you want? I don't believe I've seen a Tiffany ring with bezelled round center and pear sides.

 

[tailster]

Can you share a photo of the mount you want? I don't believe I've seen a Tiffany ring with bezelled round center and pear sides.

Absolutely! Sorry for not including one before.

Link: https://www.tiffany.com/engagement/...pear-shaped-side-stones-in-platinum-73225248/

Photo:

 

[Rfisher]

Your partner, who is much better versed in diamonds, has made it clear that they want to not be actively involved in the diamond and setting selection?

You’ve addressed color and carat and clarity - any input on cut, or is that the parameter to concede on for the importance of the others?

You basically want the look of a Tiffany but don’t want to buy there. Please make sure whomever you choose that you see their previous work - and the real thing in person or high quality photos of. NOT computer renderings of that they’ll ‘look’ like. Ideally you’ll have seen a that Tiffany setting in person as well.
Since you want to go custom/piecemeal - that return policy is totally different than buying the original package I believe. Make sure you read all fine print policies whatever you do, in case your partner would like to change something.

congratulations on your engagement!!

 

[lovedogs]

Your partner, who is much better versed in diamonds, has made it clear that they want to not be actively involved in the diamond and setting selection?

You’ve addressed color and carat and clarity - any input on cut, or is that the parameter to concede on for the importance of the others?

congratulations on your engagement!!

I agree. If your partner is well versed in diamonds then I expect she (or he) might want to be involved.

 

[vintageinjune]

Well, if I had a budget of approximately $35k, and I wanted a three stone, I'd head on over to Leon Megé. https://leonmege.com/jewelry/leon-mege-ideal-cut-round-diamond-and-pear-shapes-three-stone-ring/

The hand forged setting will cost a bit more than some others, but he's a master at 3 stone proportions, and can source wonderful diamonds to fit your desired specs and budget.

Diamonds by Lauren and CvBDesigns would also be good choices, and can source the stones and create a lovely setting too.

 

[JSG2185]

I just had a three stone ring made by Victor Canera and it’s drop dead gorgeous (oval sapphire with half moon diamond side stones). I gave him the center stone and he sourced the side stones. Alternatively, he can source all the stones for you (and he’s got some nice ones!)

Victor Canera’s work is impeccable and his prices are great for skilled hand forged work (plus his wait time was lower compared to other setters I’ve worked with). With your budget, I’d check out Victor Canera for sure!

 

[Cerulean]

Do you know if she wants a modern cut? Ditto double-checking if she wants to be involved.

I've coveted this very particular ring ever since it was made. It has a very rare old european cut center (due to it's colorless F grade in combination with it's exquisite cut), with probably equally rare white antique pear sides. I have previously tried to source a matching pair of true antique white pear sides to no avail after months. If I had the budget to add a second engagement ring to my collection, this might be it!

1.77ct Round Cut Diamond Ring with Pear Shoulders | Hancocks London

An elegant diamond engagement ring by Hancocks centred with an old European brilliant cut diamond between pear shaped diamond shoulders in 18ct yellow gold band

www.hancocks-london.com

The pound is also very weak right now, making this a pretty dang good price for what it is, as I'd generally consider Hancocks on the more expensive side. Their bench does astoundingly beautiful work and I think the proportions on this ring are sublime.

It is an SI2, but it looks pretty clean (although I'll caveat that clarity is the 'C' I care least about). I suspect most of the inclusions are towards the edge, would be curious to see the GIA cert. I spotted an inclusion here, not sure if that's a dealbreaker bc there are certainly cleaner stones than an SI2.



If she wants modern round diamonds I'd pass obviously. And if this isn't what you are after, you're likely looking at a custom ring (which isn't a bad thing) and I think this setting could serve as a good inspiration for a custom ring, as it's pretty sleek and modern with some art deco touches. People here would be happy to help you pick stones or you can work directly with a vendor, and your budget is ample for what you are after.

 

[lovedogs]

want to second the rec for victor canera. He sells super ideal cut diamonds and makes impeccable settings.

These 2 fit what you're after (one has 6 prongs and the other has 4). The 4 prong could easily be made w a round center and would be pretty much exactly what your intended said they wanted.

Victor Canera

www.victorcanera.com

Victor Canera

www.victorcanera.com

 

[tailster]

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Just want to address a few points.

My partner has given me some feedback already and has stated that she trusts my judgement and would like something that is representative of my choices. As such, I'm hesitant to involve her further in this, but I can (as needed) ask for feedback from her.

Out of curiosity, what would the setting (both creation of the physical ring and mounting of stones) approximately cost? I've been able to find lots of prices on stones themselves, but not much on how expensive it'll be to turn those three stones into a ring.

I've reached out to Victor Canera and Leon Megé, and I'll look into the others mentioned as well.

 

[Rfisher]

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Just want to address a few points.

My partner has given me some feedback already and has stated that she trusts my judgement and would like something that is representative of my choices. As such, I'm hesitant to involve her further in this, but I can (as needed) ask for feedback from her.

Out of curiosity, what would the setting (both creation of the physical ring and mounting of stones) approximately cost? I've been able to find lots of prices on stones themselves, but not much on how expensive it'll be to turn those three stones into a ring.

I've reached out to Victor Canera and Leon Megé, and I'll look into the others mentioned as well.

Are you both open to a preloved Tiffany like the one you showed? Since you mention 200% markup and such…
Have you checked out 1st Dibs, if you are?

Some of those vendors who list on there tack on a premium and are willing to lower their prices.
Maybe???

Tiffany and Co. 1.53 Carat G VS1 Diamond Platinum Ring For Sale at 1stDibs | tiffany heart-shaped diamond engagement ring in platinum, half carat vs 1 carat, half carat diamond vs 1 carat

For Sale on 1stDibs - Tiffany & Co. Diamond Engagement Ring. The ring is Platinum. The center round stone is 1.53 Carat G VS1 The two side stones are pear shaped 0.56 Carats

www.1stdibs.com

I mean I’d sure do my research and due diligence before blindly purchasing though. I don’t know who “diamond stars jewelery, inc” is to recommend them or to sway away from.

 

[yssie]

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Just want to address a few points.

My partner has given me some feedback already and has stated that she trusts my judgement and would like something that is representative of my choices. As such, I'm hesitant to involve her further in this, but I can (as needed) ask for feedback from her.

Out of curiosity, what would the setting (both creation of the physical ring and mounting of stones) approximately cost? I've been able to find lots of prices on stones themselves, but not much on how expensive it'll be to turn those three stones into a ring.

I've reached out to Victor Canera and Leon Megé, and I'll look into the others mentioned as well.

Leon Mege and Victor Canera have somewhat different aesthetics. LM’s work tends to be more flowy and his three-stone mounts for pear sides have a pinched shank; VC’s pieces more linear and architectural. Both well made so a matter of preference.

 

[JSG2185]

My three stone ring from Victor Canera was in the $6k range for the platinum setting, 1 ctw half moon diamond side stones (the side stone stats can alter the price depending on what you choose), and for the labor. I sourced the center stone myself, but of course the cost of the center stone will be based on what you choose. The picture in my avatar is the ring Victor created for me. It is absolutely splendid. Victor is so skilled and very polite. He's also fantastic at sourcing great stones within the designated budget. He's eye for detail and proportions is spot on.

Hope this helps!

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Just want to address a few points.

My partner has given me some feedback already and has stated that she trusts my judgement and would like something that is representative of my choices. As such, I'm hesitant to involve her further in this, but I can (as needed) ask for feedback from her.

Out of curiosity, what would the setting (both creation of the physical ring and mounting of stones) approximately cost? I've been able to find lots of prices on stones themselves, but not much on how expensive it'll be to turn those three stones into a ring.

I've reached out to Victor Canera and Leon Megé, and I'll look into the others mentioned as well.

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Just want to address a few points.

My partner has given me some feedback already and has stated that she trusts my judgement and would like something that is representative of my choices. As such, I'm hesitant to involve her further in this, but I can (as needed) ask for feedback from her.

Out of curiosity, what would the setting (both creation of the physical ring and mounting of stones) approximately cost? I've been able to find lots of prices on stones themselves, but not much on how expensive it'll be to turn those three stones into a ring.

I've reached out to Victor Canera and Leon Megé, and I'll look into the others mentioned as well

Thanks to all for the replies so far. Just want to address a few points.

My partner has given me some feedback already and has stated that she trusts my judgement and would like something that is representative of my choices. As such, I'm hesitant to involve her further in this, but I can (as needed) ask for feedback from her.

Out of curiosity, what would the setting (both creation of the physical ring and mounting of stones) approximately cost? I've been able to find lots of prices on stones themselves, but not much on how expensive it'll be to turn those three stones into a ring.

I've reached out to Victor Canera and Leon Megé, and I'll look into the others mentioned as well.

 

[tailster]

Got some prices back. Completed ring, 1.71ct F-VS1 GIA 3xEx No Fluor, including matching side stones 0.6ct total, $28k. If I move up to a 1.79ct E-VVS2, the price jumps to $34k.

(1) Worth the extra price for color and clarity?
(2) Does that seem like a reasonable price?
(3) Do I gain anything by sourcing the stone myself?

I should add that my partner has expressed interest in a yellow gold ring, which I know will impact perceived color a bit. Thanks again to everyone, you’ve all been amazingly helpful!

 

[JSG2185]

Regarding sourcing the stone yourself, I believe Leon Mege does not set outside stones and Victor Canera will sometimes set outside stones (I’d ask him first before sourcing the stone yourself if you’re thinking of sticking with him).

In my experience, sourcing stones on your own tends to save some money but there is also a convenience in having a reputable vendor/setter source a stone for you. It’ll be totally up to you! Either way you’ll be avoiding that crazy 200% markup you see at the big brands.

Re. your other question: for me personally, I wouldn’t pay $6k extra to go from F-VS1 to E-VVS2 (as long as the stones are comparable in cut etc.) because the difference is not something the naked eye will detect when you’re wearing your ring.

(1) Worth the extra price for color and clarity?
(2) Does that seem like a reasonable price?
(3) Do I gain anything by sourcing the stone myself?

I should add that my partner has expressed interest in a yellow gold ring, which I know will impact perceived color a bit. Thanks again to everyone, you’ve all been amazingly helpful!

 

[AprilBaby]

I wouldn’t pay the extra from F to E.

 

[whitewave]

want to second the rec for victor canera. He sells super ideal cut diamonds and makes impeccable settings.

These 2 fit what you're after (one has 6 prongs and the other has 4). The 4 prong could easily be made w a round center and would be pretty much exactly what your intended said they wanted.

Victor Canera

www.victorcanera.com

Victor Canera

www.victorcanera.com

Can other people not click on these links? It happened to me on another post with a VC link.

 

[whitewave]

Got some prices back. Completed ring, 1.71ct F-VS1 GIA 3xEx No Fluor, including matching side stones 0.6ct total, $28k. If I move up to a 1.79ct E-VVS2, the price jumps to $34k.

(1) Worth the extra price for color and clarity?
(2) Does that seem like a reasonable price?
(3) Do I gain anything by sourcing the stone myself?

I should add that my partner has expressed interest in a yellow gold ring, which I know will impact perceived color a bit. Thanks again to everyone, you’ve all been amazingly helpful!

What are the qualities of the diamond? Does it have a cert you can show us at least for the center stone? 3ex is a requirement (for me) but there is a huge range of what’s in that. Not all good. Have you seen these stones?

 

[DejaWiz]

Can other people not click on these links? It happened to me on another post with a VC link.

Same...for some reason, this forum blocks links to the VC site. It was doing the same to Distinctive Gem links a while back, as well.

 

[tailster]

So I placed a refundable deposit on a stone I found at a local jeweler that came highly recommended by a friend. Stone is a 1.9ct / F / VS1 / 3xEx / no fluoro, "hearts and arrows" cut, set with two side stones for $28k. Asked another jeweler (recommended here) what their price would be for this stone to do some comparison, and they wrote me back that this stone was “laughably bad” because the depth is 63.5%, whereas they wouldn’t ever sell anything over 63%. I’ve included the GIA report for the stone I put a depot on below. I’m concerned I made a huge mistake. Should I try for another stone?

 

[Kim N]

So I placed a refundable deposit on a stone I found at a local jeweler that came highly recommended by a friend. Stone is a 1.9ct / F / VS1 / 3xEx / no fluoro, "hearts and arrows" cut, set with two side stones for $28k. Asked another jeweler (recommended here) what their price would be for this stone to do some comparison, and they wrote me back that this stone was “laughably bad” because the depth is 63.5%, whereas they wouldn’t ever sell anything over 63%. I’ve included the GIA report for the stone I put a depot on below. I’m concerned I made a huge mistake. Should I try for another stone?

I wouldn't say it's "laughably bad," but it definitely faces up much smaller than other stones of the same weight with closer to ideal depth.

 

[tailster]

I wouldn't say it's "laughably bad," but it definitely faces up much smaller than other stones of the same weight with closer to ideal depth.

Understood, and thank you for the reply. I'm not as concerned with it looking too small as I am with it being outside the "ideal" range.

Essentially, the two options I've been considering are the above stone (1.9ct) and this stone (1.71ct), which seems to be closer to "ideal" proportions, but a bit smaller. Both are similarly priced.

Any advice on which would be a better purchase?

 

[tailster]

What are the qualities of the diamond? Does it have a cert you can show us at least for the center stone? 3ex is a requirement (for me) but there is a huge range of what’s in that. Not all good. Have you seen these stones?

I have not seen either of those in person, those stones are from an online jeweler recommended here. The only one I have seen in person is the 1.9ct one I placed a deposit on that I'm now in a cold sweat worrying if I made a bad choice.

 

[ringo865]

Check the HCA for numbers, but usually depths over 62 are going to cause not only appearance of it being smaller than its weight (which you say you don’t mind, but then why not get an ideal cut smaller stone) but also issues with light return (which probably because it’s not within the ideal parameters), making it not as bright and sparkly as it could be.

ETA in your original post, you said Tiffany bezel three stone, but your picture is prongs. Can you confirm which your partner prefers, as bezels are way different than prongs.

 

[Kim N]

Understood, and thank you for the reply. I'm not as concerned with it looking too small as I am with it being outside the "ideal" range.

Essentially, the two options I've been considering are the above stone (1.9ct) and this stone (1.71ct), which seems to be closer to "ideal" proportions, but a bit smaller. Both are similarly priced.

Any advice on which would be a better purchase?

I prefer the 1.70, but I'd want to see an ASET image or magnified vendor video to confirm.

 

[tailster]

ETA in your original post, you said Tiffany bezel three stone, but your picture is prongs. Can you confirm which your partner prefers, as bezels are way different than prongs.

My apologies, I had meant prongs, erroneously said bezel.

Ran the HCA tool and it returned the following for the 1.9ct stone:

 

[tailster]

I prefer the 1.70, but I'd want to see an ASET image or magnified vendor video to confirm.

I can ask for that. Is there a good guide on how to interpret the results? Is this something I should expect my local jeweler to supply me with as well?

 

[Kim N]

I can ask for that. Is there a good guide on how to interpret the results? Is this something I should expect my local jeweler to supply me with as well?

Some jewelers won't have an Ideal-Scope or ASET scope, but definitely ask. This will help with interpreting the images.

What ASET reveals that Ideal-Scope does not

Ask 10 jewelers about one diamond and you might hear 10 different stories. Ask 10 independent appraisers and the clinical analysis may agree, but terminology and methodology can vary. But […]

www.pricescope.com

 

[tailster]

Some jewelers won't have an Ideal-Scope or ASET scope, but definitely ask. This will help with interpreting the images.

What ASET reveals that Ideal-Scope does not

Ask 10 jewelers about one diamond and you might hear 10 different stories. Ask 10 independent appraisers and the clinical analysis may agree, but terminology and methodology can vary. But […]

www.pricescope.com

So I looked at it under an Ideal-Scope and it was “hearts and arrows” but my understanding is that there are ways to achieve that without being a well cut stone?

 

[Kim N]

So I looked at it under an Ideal-Scope and it was “hearts and arrows” but my understanding is that there are ways to achieve that without being a well cut stone?

It sounds like you looked at it through an H&A viewer, which doesn't tell you its light return. An Ideal-Scope and ASET scope would show you light return. And yes, you can have an H&A diamond that's not that well cut.