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WEBINAR PS In the Loupe: GCAL 8X® and Why Diamond Cut is Important

Part 1: Additional Q&A from webinar (questions 1-4)

Question 1: Angelo mentioned that all images on the report should be actual images, not computer generated. (And I agree). However, my understanding is that all the light performance analysis relies on the same scanning tools and measurement technologies that are used as inputs to create those CG images on the report. Is that correct? If that's correct, if you can't trust the CG light performance images on the report, how can consumers be sure they can trust the light performance analysis software and result?

Answer 1: Great question with a lot of nuance and angles to it. At GCAL, we take all actual images and videos of the diamond for evaluating light performance, and do not rely on ray-traced or computer generated images from a scan. We believe that is a superior approach. However, if you don’t have access to actual images, a ray-trace or computer generated image can be a very powerful tool, and the companies like Sarine and Lexus that are behind this technology are pretty remarkable with how accurate they can be. Additionally, the benefit of a ray traced image is that you know there is a consistent environment/parameters applied to the stones, so it does make comparisons of multiple stones a somewhat guaranteed apples to apples comparison, in some ways. To the second part of the question…most of the ray traced/CG images that you see, are all based on either a Helium (Lexus) or a Sarine scan, or a derivative file format, that essentially creates a 3d model of the stone, with all the measurements and angles of the stone.

The difference at GCAL is that each of our assessment images/videos are all of the actual diamond, taken with different pieces of equipment, and the only interaction with the computer or software is when we are digitally processing the image and video and scoring it. Finally, there are times when the actual image and ray traced image look identical…but as we showed during the presentation, there are times when there is a significant deviation between actual and ray trace, due to a bad scan, inclusions, a hazy stone, significant grain/stria, or even lackluster surface polish, which could all render a 3D scan, much less accurate than a real image/video. This is also why many higher end retailers and manufacturers take their own images and videos, to supplement a ray-traced or CG image.

Question 2: How do you price an 8X?

Answer 2: GCAL is not in the business of buying or selling diamonds, so we don’t price 8X Certified Diamonds. However, since these stones take significantly more time to cut and polish, and the yield of rough is typically lower on an 8X (compared to an average Triple EX), they will sell at a premium to a Triple EX. This is corroborated by what manufacturers of 8X tell us.

Question 3: Are there different characteristics of light return that are prioritized differently with different shapes? (I.e.. using the same metrics to evaluate a round brilliant and a rose cut wouldn't accomplish much - but that's an extreme example! Are there specific characteristics that GCAL would demerit in one shape but reward in another?)

Answer 3: We compare apples to apples, rounds to rounds, ovals to ovals, etc. Here’s our methodology for creating the 8X criteria for each shape. For the last 20 years, GCAL has been assessing the optical light performance of diamonds that pass through our lab. We’ve captured the optical symmetry, brilliance, scintillation, photomicrographs, and proportions on millions of diamonds. For each shape, we relied upon and data mined these performance images. From all this physical and optical data that we’ve collected, we identified the highest performing diamonds. Then we isolated the proportions and angles that they shared in common. We also correlated how variations in each cut parameter impacted aspects of light performance. From there we were able to establish and set the minimum requirements for 8X, in each of the shapes.

Further, we identified specific shape aesthetics that we felt were important when creating and identifying ‘super ideal’ caliber stones in each shape. For ovals, we aim for a perfect ellipse shape without shoulder bulges, and minimal bow-tie effects. For princess cuts, we restricted the L/W ratio to a max of 1.015 (most allow Princess up to 1.05), we restrict the corners to 90 degrees, with a 0.3 degree tolerance, and we will not certify a princess cut as an 8X if there is any damage to the corners. A hallmark of the most finely cut round brilliants is a perfect Hearts and Arrows pattern, so that is a requirement on the rounds.

For each shape that we create a cut standard, it has its own unique specifications and characteristics and is judged against stones of the same shape. Some shapes like a rose cut are not evaluated for light performance

Question 4 (for @oldminer): Do you feel we need to account for all 8X in our valuations?

Answer 4 (from @oldminer): Of course, 8X is a rather extraordinary achievement of cutting. It will be a stone worthy of a premium price. You’ll need to research the market to discover what that added value might be. Pricescope may be very important in such research as GCAL increases their market share of ideal cut diamond grading.
 
Part 2: Additional Q&A from webinar (questions 5-7)

Question 5: What, if any, changes has GCAL seen in diamond shoppers over the years? (Knowledge, interest, preferences…?)

Answer 5: Diamond shoppers have continued to impress us over the years. The amount of knowledge they possess, the research they compile before making a purchase, the questions they ask, demonstrate how much more diamond savvy they are today. And we have seen continual increases in this knowledge base over the years.

It takes only a few minutes scanning the pricescope forum to understand where they are attaining a lot of this knowledge. There are pricescope consumers that know a heck of a lot more, than a typical retail sales associate.

A few things have remained constant…buying a diamond is an important, emotional, and impactful experience, and they all want to get it right. The biggest changes we have seen is the rise of fancy shapes, the introduction and acceptance of lab grown diamonds, changes in setting preferences, and the explosion of unique, custom mountings.

Question 6: What are some things shoppers should keep an eye out for or questions they should ask?

Answer 6: A few things we always recommend to consumers… never pay cash, always get a receipt, make sure that what you are buying is described in detail on the receipt, ensure the return policy is in writing. If stock images are being used on a report or website, ask for a real image. If the price is too good to be true, it might be. If you are getting a second opinion on your purchase, its preferable to go to an independent and qualified appraiser who doesn’t buy or sell, don’t go to a competitor.

Question 7: What’s next for GCAL?

Answer 7: Up next is GCAL 8X Radiant and GCAL 8X Cushion, in both square and elongated variations. Proprietary and Co-Branded 8X Certificates are also in the works and will be appearing on the market very soon.

We are also prototyping GCAL specific handheld tools that consumers and members of the trade could use in assessing stones.

Finally, GCAL has always had a focus on innovation and technology, since its inception. From acquiring Diamond Profile Laboratory in 2004 (to add light performance), to incorporating Gemprint into the certification process in 2006 (to add positive identification), to earning IS0 17025 Laboratory Accreditation in 2008, to upgrading our photography systems in 2012 to provide full screen high resolution images, to the integration of 360 Video in our certificate experience in 2016, to the launch of 8X in 2021, we are constantly looking to improve our process, and add relevant, useful, visual and analytical information to our certificates, to aid our customers in making a confident and informed decision, when choosing a diamond. We are on the cusp of some very exciting announcements along these lines, so please stay tuned!
 
@GCAL-Angelo , Thanks for taking the time to write out the transcript. Great info!

Exciting to watch your development. Best practices + emphasis on light performance - a powerful combination.
 
There are pricescope consumers that know a heck of a lot more, than a typical retail sales associate.

Sadly, as a member of the trade, I am of the impression the average Pricescoper with at least two years of Pricescoping, knows way more than the average sales associate about light performance in diamonds. I am in constant amazement at the things my clients tell me they were told by retail sales associates.
 
Sadly, as a member of the trade, I am of the impression the average Pricescoper with at least two years of Pricescoping, knows way more than the average sales associate about light performance in diamonds. I am in constant amazement at the things my clients tell me they were told by retail sales associates.

With so much solid info available on the internet today, you would think that jewelers would add a little reading on the topic to the training process for a new sales associate. At the very least enable them to speak the same language as the more inquisitive consumers that are coming into their store. I think the problem starts at the top. Most of the owners are pretty old school, and they themselves have not committed to continuing education, and therefore do not have an appreciation for modern understandings of diamond performance.
 
I think the problem starts at the top. Most of the owners are pretty old school, and they themselves have not committed to continuing education,

I wish I could disagree with you. I see so many GG's who have never lifted a book nor read a paper since they got their degree. Then I go to trade shows and meet others who are continually trying to improve their knowledge. The good ones are everywhere too, they just don't create the unfortunate tales we hear so often.
 
@GCAL-Angelo
I hope you and your family had an awesome thanksgiving!
After having seen more reports I would like a discussion on h&a standards. In particular the hearts.
There is no universal standards so knowing more about your standards would be helpful.
+1000 for showing real images so that even if one does not agree with your standards they can grade them on their own criteria.
 
@Karl_K - i apologize for not responding to this - i just saw this, and will definitely post info around hearts and arrows standards
 
@Karl_K - i apologize for not responding to this - i just saw this, and will definitely post info around hearts and arrows standards

@GCAL-Angelo and @Karl_K I am catching up on this and didn’t see where the H&A info was posted to this thread. Is it located elsewhere? Can a link be provided.
 
@GCAL-Angelo and @Karl_K I am catching up on this and didn’t see where the H&A info was posted to this thread. Is it located elsewhere? Can a link be provided.
I have no further info.
off topic: welcome back sledge!!!! You have been missed.
 
I have no further info.
off topic: welcome back sledge!!!! You have been missed.

Thank you Karl, that means a lot! It’s great to be back. I’ve missed talking diamonds.

The true honor is being surrounded by yourself and all our PS brothers and sisters. This is a great community that I am thankful to participate in. :cool2:
 
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