Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Melees

[FancyDiamond]

I am having a long, multi-station, diamond necklace made. The diamonds are to be set in bezel type dbty setting. Size of the diamonds is about 0.3ct. In the standard dbty setting for small diamonds, specifically melee size, the girdle is protected by the bezel, but the cutlet is exposed. Advantage is that one can see the sparkling diamond all the time, no matter which way the diamond flips. Downside is potential damage to the delicate cutlet. For larger size diamonds, I think the problem of potential damage increases. Therefore, I asked the jeweler for a setting design that would protect the cutlet. My jeweler suggests something like a single U-bar for covering the cutlet. Attached is a photo that I think the "dbty" setting would look like (but with the ears added for attachment to the chain). My concern with this design is that the diamond will be even more likely flip with the wrong (cutlet) side facing the front. In such a case, I shall be seeing metal bars most of the time. Do you think my concern is valid? If so, what do you suggest as better alternatives?

 

[MichelleCarmen]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

. In such a case, I shall be seeing metal bars most of the time. Do you think my concern is valid? If so, what do you suggest as better alternatives?

Yes, that is a valid concern. DBTY often flip and leave the culet side up and the metal bar will be what people are seeing. I have a solitaire DBTY with a .38 diamond and the culet is exposed. I think the most important part about having such a design of necklace is properly storing it. You cannot just set it down on the counter due to the culet being exposed so either wear it or put it in a safe place. I also do not put mine in any sort of ultrasonic cleaner nor have a jeweler clean it for me, just to be on the safe side. I just scrub it with a baby toothbrush.

 

[chrono]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Unless you plan to walk into walls and doors, the chances of the exposed culet getting damaged is extremely low. When you say long, how long will it be? Will it swing around and hit tables and other surfaces? If not, again, the risk is very low. The main concern for having an exposed culet in such a necklace is that it might poke the softer skin at the decolletage area.

 

[FancyDiamond]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Yes, that is a valid concern. DBTY often flip and leave the culet side up and the metal bar will be what people are seeing. I have a solitaire DBTY with a .38 diamond and the culet is exposed. I think the most important part about having such a design of necklace is properly storing it. You cannot just set it down on the counter due to the culet being exposed so either wear it or put it in a safe place. I also do not put mine in any sort of ultrasonic cleaner nor have a jeweler clean it for me, just to be on the safe side. I just scrub it with a baby toothbrush.

Thanks, MC, for a quick response and for sharing your experience. Your experience confirms me that my situation will be many times worse, as my necklace has several of these dbty's. I do not want to have to baby this long necklace, as I plan to wear it with "casual" clothing, like the way I do with my tennis bracelet. So, I must have something to protect the cutlet, and I have to live with seeing the backside metal sometimes.

The question now is will the extra U-bar make the dbty flip more?

 

[FancyDiamond]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Unless you plan to walk into walls and doors, the chances of the exposed culet getting damaged is extremely low. When you say long, how long will it be? Will it swing around and hit tables and other surfaces? If not, again, the risk is very low. The main concern for having an exposed culet in such a necklace is that it might poke the softer skin at the decolletage area.

The necklace will be 36 inches long with 13 "dbty" diamonds.

I do not think the necklace will swing around often or hit other surfaces. However, the diamonds themselves can hit each other and the thick chain (containing bars) can likely hit the diamonds. I really think I need something to protect the cutlet. The question is what setting design that would minimize flipping and looks good.

 

[FancyDiamond]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Will this tri-half-circle setting function and look better?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

I think it will look horrible unless the backs are open. The backs show a lot. Very few things are going to damage a diamond. Hitting another diamond or a hard impact against a hard surface would be the two that come to mind. I don't really see them hitting against each other that much while being worn and I don't think they'd hit anything else hard enough to worry about. But in the freak occurrence of one stone damaging another, then you just replace it. If several were damaged, I'd claim it on insurance. But for one stone, I would just pay for it. I think Tiffany has sold DBY's with larger stones and they are all like the others.

What does WF say about it?

 

[yssie]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Ditto DS, I really just don't think the very open, modernist DBTY look works unless the backs are open, and I agree the increase in safety isn't worth the aesthetic tradeoff given that as a necklace it's not going to be subjected to much. They're going to flip, there's just no way around that, and stones with larger pavilions (or more stuff covering the pavilion) will make it flip more - balance on the flat table vs. perch on an unstable pav bulge w/ chains pulling taut...

Double sided rose cuts would be ideal DBTY stones

 

[FancyDiamond]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

I think it will look horrible unless the backs are open. The backs show a lot. Very few things are going to damage a diamond. Hitting another diamond or a hard impact against a hard surface would be the two that come to mind. I don't really see them hitting against each other that much while being worn and I don't think they'd hit anything else hard enough to worry about. But in the freak occurrence of one stone damaging another, then you just replace it. If several were damaged, I'd claim it on insurance. But for one stone, I would just pay for it. I think Tiffany has sold DBY's with larger stones and they are all like the others.

What does WF say about it?

diamondseeker2006, I am amazed at your insight. We are fortunate to have you around for guidance. I never thought of going back to the original dbty design. A very interesting option that I should consider.

Although Tiffany has sold dbty's with larger stones, are the necklaces long (over 15 inches) with more than five diamonds? If my necklace were less than 15-inch long, then I would not worry. Not sure if situation is the same for 36-inch length.

I am waiting for Leon's reply.

 

[ame]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

My limited experience with long necklaces--and why I don't wear them anymore--makes me think that this is going to hit more than you realize, possibly snag on things more than you realize--door knobs etc. while you're active. I don't think having the half circles or whatever is going to really do a lot for the look of the piece, but it's certainly going to make it sit strangely on you. You could have the bezels made taller so that more of the stone is encased top to bottom perhaps, but that still leaves the face of the stone exposed to whacks just as much. If you're worried about whacks, that's the part I'd be worried about more than anything.

 

[yssie]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

I think it will look horrible unless the backs are open. The backs show a lot. Very few things are going to damage a diamond. Hitting another diamond or a hard impact against a hard surface would be the two that come to mind. I don't really see them hitting against each other that much while being worn and I don't think they'd hit anything else hard enough to worry about. But in the freak occurrence of one stone damaging another, then you just replace it. If several were damaged, I'd claim it on insurance. But for one stone, I would just pay for it. I think Tiffany has sold DBY's with larger stones and they are all like the others.

What does WF say about it?

diamondseeker2006, I am amazed at your insight. We are fortunate to have you around for guidance. I never thought of going back to the original dbty design. A very interesting option that I should consider.

Although Tiffany has sold dbty's with larger stones, are the necklaces long (over 15 inches) with more than five diamonds? If my necklace were less than 15-inch long, then I would not worry. Not sure if situation is the same for 36-inch length.

I am waiting for Leon's reply.

Oh, Leon - I just had a vision of telling him you'd changed your mind and wanted princesses in thick bezels instead

 

[FancyDiamond]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Oh, Leon - I just had a vision of telling him you'd changed your mind and wanted princesses in thick bezels instead

Did I miss something here? Must be something really funny. Please tell.

 

[orbaya]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Unless you plan to walk into walls and doors, the chances of the exposed culet getting damaged is extremely low. When you say long, how long will it be? Will it swing around and hit tables and other surfaces? If not, again, the risk is very low. The main concern for having an exposed culet in such a necklace is that it might poke the softer skin at the decolletage area.

The necklace will be 36 inches long with 13 "dbty" diamonds.

I do not think the necklace will swing around often or hit other surfaces. However, the diamonds themselves can hit each other and the thick chain (containing bars) can likely hit the diamonds. I really think I need something to protect the cutlet. The question is what setting design that would minimize flipping and looks good.

How will the diamonds hit each other? If you do what your proposing, you will most likely regret it. My DBTY from Whiteflash has .15 pointers (not small compared to the standard DBTY style, but not huge either). Unless your neck and chest are made of something hard, don't worry about cutlets. I'd be more concerned with this style in bracelets because the bang around hard things a lot).

I guarantee you will not be happy with your proposed setting. Random stones will flip and the less metal drawn to that the better. As long as the diamonds are well cut, they will sparkle the same whether they are right side up or not. More metal will draw attention to the flipped diamonds. Don't worry about cutlets with a DBTY necklace.

 

[Efriede]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

I have dbty with 0.31 stone and it never occured to me that I could break the culet...the culet however on this larger stone is more noticable for my skin as 0.2 stone. I also think that having only a fine bezel aroung a girdl is the best style for this type of necklace. However, you need to be ok that the stones will flip no matter what. I actually just looooove this feature and find it very unique and eye catching. I also looooove larger stones in dbty and consider adding some 0.25-0.3 stones to the necklace.

Looking forward to see another beautiful piece of you soon

 

[yssie]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Oh, Leon - I just had a vision of telling him you'd changed your mind and wanted princesses in thick bezels instead

Did I miss something here? Must be something really funny. Please tell.

You do mean Leon at WF, right?
I just... somehow don't reckon he'd appreciate it all that much

Though LM's reaction would probably be right about the same, now that I think about it!!

 

[FancyDiamond]

Re: Question About dbty Setting For Diamonds larger than Mel

Thank you all for providing valuable insights and advice. You have saved me from a potential, regretable mistake.