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Question for the PROS on white gold versus platinum for earring and bracelet settings

diamondseeker2006

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Jan 11, 2006
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We have seen discussion on various threads regarding platinum versus white gold for pierced earring settings as well as tennis bracelet settings. I know some are curious about screw-on posts and backs versus tension backs on earrings, although I have seen multiple jewelers discourage the screw backs. I love the weight of platinum, personally, and I know gold wears away more over time. But some people think white gold is superior for bracelets and earrings because it is less bendable/malleable (not sure of the right word). So I'd love to see @Wink, @Garry H (Cut Nut) , @Texas Leaguer @Victor Canera @denverappraiser @oldminer and any other active professional members here give your opinions! Thanks in advance!
 
I never dreamed I would develop an allergy to gold, ( all those mysterious alloys) so my gold earrings are a source of irritation and swelling. Once we are done with this pandemic I am going to swap out the posts, wires on my earrings. If you love the way white metal looks, I would suggest platinum.
 
I’m following too...My studs are getting new platinum posts and Protecktor backs because my .03 post broke off at the notch at the end. I’m getting the next size up which is .04...That was the thickest they had. At some point I will reset them...I’m very curious to see what the experts say. TIA
 
So I know this was directed to the Professional community regarding their input. My only reason for commenting was due to my gold allergy and how it took forever to diagnose. Not once when shopping for fine jewelry was this issue or concern ever brought up. A few targeted questions could help a purchaser in going with the best metal for them to wear.
 
Ceilimom said:
So I know this was directed to the Professional community regarding their input. My only reason for commenting was due to my gold allergy and how it took forever to diagnose. Not once when shopping for fine jewelry was this issue or concern ever brought up. A few targeted questions could help a purchaser in going with the best metal for them to wear.
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Yes, some people are allergic to nickel alloy in white gold. That is definitely a problem for some people, although you can get white gold without nickel (such as palladium wg). It is totally fine for you to note that here!

My question actually has to do with structural durability over time.
 
MissGotRocks said:
@diamondseeker2006 I am bumping this thread back up as I think many would love to see the opinions of the pros here - and that certainly includes me!
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Thanks! I realized yesterday that the pros aren't responding because it's the weekend. So we'll bump it again tomorrow if it moves down too far again!
 
Chopped liver here :}
With tennis bracelets the design will make far more difference in how it holds up than the metal type.

Both can last a lifetime and both could be destroyed in a day.

Earrings there as noted above are potential allergy issues for some people but otherwise there is little difference because there is little wear.
More earrings are damaged in storage then any other way.
I'm going to leave the screw back question to others.
 
I can wear my plat studs all day, but not my 18K white gold. I have 1 pair of earrings with screw backs, but I don’t find them particularly comfortable. I prefer just a good tight fitting post and butterfly setting.
 
Karl_K said:
Chopped liver here :}
With tennis bracelets the design will make far more difference in how it holds up than the metal type.

Both can last a lifetime and both could be destroyed in a day.

Earrings there as noted above are potential allergy issues for some people but otherwise there is little difference because there is little wear.
More earrings are damaged in storage then any other way.
I'm going to leave the screw back question to others.
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You're not chopped liver, Karl! I always value your opinion! I mainly linked jewelers (or appraisers since they see used pieces for valuation) who actively make or sell earrings and bracelets as they are most likely to see the pieces for later repairs, resets, etc. I know Wink prefers gold for bracelets over platinum. But your point is good about design. So hopefully others will address that, as well.
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
Yes, some people are allergic to nickel alloy in white gold. That is definitely a problem for some people, although you can get white gold without nickel (such as palladium wg). It is totally fine for you to note that here!

My question actually has to do with structural durability over time.
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My earrings are yellow gold, which alloy would be the trigger? 9 kt gold in rings and earrings turns my fingers and earlobes greenish black, stopped wearing that content years ago.
 
Ceilimom said:
My earrings are yellow gold, which alloy would be the trigger? 9 kt gold in rings and earrings turns my fingers and earlobes greenish black, stopped wearing that content years ago.
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I've never heard of anyone wearing 14-18k yellow gold (the most common yg in the US) having an allergy. So I have no idea. My sister in law was allergic to wg and reset her engagement ring in yg and never had an issue. Nickel is the only alloy I have heard of that commonly causes a problem. Maybe one of the jewelers here can answer that.
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
I've never heard of anyone wearing 14-18k yellow gold (the most common yg in the US) having an allergy. So I have no idea. My sister in law was allergic to wg and reset her engagement ring in yg and never had an issue. Nickel is the only alloy I have heard of that commonly causes a problem. Maybe one of the jewelers here can answer that.
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copper allergy in yellow gold
silver alergy in both wg and yg is also possible.
 
I’ve had screw backs since I was in my early 20’s. Initially white gold, then developed allergies. Been wearing platinum screw backs (constantly) for at least 30 years with no problems. I am careful to clean them. I have several “tennis” bracelets. The oldest is 20 years old and platinum. No problems. I have two sapphire and diamond tennis bracelets in 18k white. No functional problems, but they occasionally need to be refreshed.
 
Choice of metal involves a number of considerations and preferences, some strictly personal. So you just have to work through the pros and cons. Here are some things to think about.

  1. Color choice (yellow/white)
  2. Skin Sensitivity (platinum is very hypo allergenic)
  3. Budget (with current price of gold the differential between plat and gold alloy is less of a factor)
  4. Heft (platinum is denser and heavier)
  5. Plating (platinum does not require it)
  6. Durability (especially shanks and prongs)
  7. Visual texture (high luster or patina)
Platinum is softer but more durable. That always strikes people as counter intuitve but platinum is a 'sticky' metal in that does not wear away. If you scratch platinum it simply displaces metal from one point to another. It does not flake off. Prongs and shanks do not get thin or brittle the way gold alloys do over long periods of wear. Being softer platinum will scratch more easily but can always be repolished to original condition. Micro scratches create a patina on platinum that many people like. Sort of like broken in blue jeans. But if you like a high luster look, white gold with rhodium plating will give you that look much longer.

From a manufacturing standpoint, our jewelers prefer to work in platinum. It's very malleable allowing fine adjustments and detail. Techniques like laser welding are easier to accomplish in platinum.

Wear and tear is less of a concern with earrings. The lighter weight of gold alloys may be more comfortable to wear. Friction backs and screw posts are less likely to get damaged or deformed in handling in the harder gold alloys. Large earrings like chandelier types can uncomfortably heavy in platinum. Large studs may have more tendency to droop from the extra weight.

Skin sensitivity is of particular importance with metal that penetrates a body part. And also to some extent with tight fitting jewelry such a rings. Less of an issue with pendants and bracelets.
 
Excellent, thank you @Texas Leaguer ! Can't you rhodium plate platinum if you want high luster with the durability of platinum?

@Wink I hope you'll chime in because I am pretty sure I recall you saying that your favor gold over platinum for tennis bracelets.
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
We have seen discussion on various threads regarding platinum versus white gold for pierced earring settings as well as tennis bracelet settings. I know some are curious about screw-on posts and backs versus tension backs on earrings, although I have seen multiple jewelers discourage the screw backs. I love the weight of platinum, personally, and I know gold wears away more over time. But some people think white gold is superior for bracelets and earrings because it is less bendable/malleable (not sure of the right word). So I'd love to see @Wink, @Garry H (Cut Nut) , @Texas Leaguer @Victor Canera @denverappraiser @oldminer and any other active professional members here give your opinions! Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Platinum is my favorite recommendation for earrings, as it limits the risk of a reaction to alloys often used in white gold (especially if the earrings are for a young wearer). When it comes to screwback vs tension, that's where people get somewhat divided. I personally love screwbacks but not everyone finds them to be comfortable. Also, if you're not diligent about keeping the earrings cleaned, you can be at risk for infection.

Now, if using a tension back on a pair of platinum earrings, I would suggest a pair of palladium or 14kwg/Pal friction backs. This is because platinum is softer and - unless the platinum backs are heavy duty - they can easily loosen up over time. The palladium backs don't have the same softness of platinum, which prevents them from loosening up. Bonus: they're a lower risk of sensitivity than regular 14k or 18k white gold because palladium is in the platinum family

Bracelets are a completely different animal. Unless you’re head-banging at a rock concert the most abuse your earrings usually incur is getting hit against a telephone when you raise it to your ear. Alternately, bracelets are constantly being bumped, scraped, tugged, and generally abused – often without the wearer even realizing it. Platinum is malleable. 14kwg is harder, but the metal wears away over time (instead of just being ‘pushed around’ in the case of platinum). It’s six in one, half a dozen in another. For my own bracelet, I chose 14k white gold simply because I'm not gentle on my jewelry. A lot of this really depends on your wear habits.
 
Thank you for your excellent explanation @Winks_Elf What type of backing do you recommend for platinum stud earrings with La Pousette style backing? Thank you so much!
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
Excellent, thank you @Texas Leaguer ! Can't you rhodium plate platinum if you want high luster with the durability of platinum?
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Yes,that is technically possible. I checked with our production team and the consensus is the benefit is negligible and we have had virtually no requests for it.
 
@diamondseeker2006
I’m a little bit partial to platinum in areas where there’s friction because they wear away more slowly than with gold. Tennis bracelets for example have links that are connected together which would wear away more quickly with gold than platinum. The decision as to whether going with platinum or gold in a bracelet should take into account the design of the piece. I haven’t really come across a situation where I would choose white gold over platinum because of its greater hardness. Platinum is much more rare than white gold in pre-made bracelets because of their higher price point. It’s extremely rare for a vendor to completely custom make a bracelet so choosing white gold is an easy decision for them because that’s typically the only option available to them from their suppliers.

For earrings, it depends… I agree with @Texas Leaguer that platinum might be too heavy in chandelier type designs with platinum. It might be uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time. With studs though, weight isn’t really an issue so platinum is an excellent option much of the time. I like white gold for push backs because of the greater (spring) that white gold (depending on alloying) can offer over platinum. Push backs in platinum would need to be re-adjusted every few months so that they can hold the post with enough tension. Screw backs can be done in platinum very successfully though. Is your complaint that screw backs are too delicate in platinum? We make the screw back threads and posts in-house using a tap and die so they’re pretty sturdy. Off the shelf screw posts and backs from findings houses can be really delicate IMO.

Good luck!
 
I forgot to mention that whenever possible, I would recommend palladium alloyed white gold. Palladium is a platinum family metal and brings a few of the benefits of platinum into white gold. Most vendors do not use palladium white gold any more though because of its increased cost. Current spot prices for palladium is $2377/oz yikes.:-o
 
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Victor Canera said:
@diamondseeker2006
I’m a little bit partial to platinum in areas where there’s friction because they wear away more slowly than with gold. Tennis bracelets for example have links that are connected together which would wear away more quickly with gold than platinum. The decision as to whether going with platinum or gold in a bracelet should take into account the design of the piece. I haven’t really come across a situation where I would choose white gold over platinum because of its greater hardness. Platinum is much more rare than white gold in pre-made bracelets because of their higher price point. It’s extremely rare for a vendor to completely custom make a bracelet so choosing white gold is an easy decision for them because that’s typically the only option available to them from their suppliers.

For earrings, it depends… I agree with @Texas Leaguer that platinum might be too heavy in chandelier type designs with platinum. It might be uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time. With studs though, weight isn’t really an issue so platinum is an excellent option much of the time. I like white gold for push backs because of the greater (spring) that white gold (depending on alloying) can offer over platinum. Push backs in platinum would need to be re-adjusted every few months so that they can hold the post with enough tension. Screw backs can be done in platinum very successfully though. Is your complaint that screw backs are too delicate in platinum? We make the screw back threads and posts in-house using a tap and die so they’re pretty sturdy. Off the shelf screw posts and backs from findings houses can be really delicate IMO.

Good luck!
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Victor Canera said:
I forgot to mention that whenever possible, I would recommend palladium alloyed white gold. Palladium is a platinum family metal and brings a few of the benefits of platinum into white gold. Most vendors do not use palladium white gold any more though because of its increased cost. Current spot prices for palladium is $2377/oz yikes.:-o
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Hi, Victor! So good to "see" you here! Yikes is right on palladium white gold!!!!

I was really just asking this for the benefit of anyone trying to decide metals. It wasn't for a particular project for me. My personal preference is platinum because of all it's positive features, especially the longevity. I am glad you like platinum for tennis bracelets. You have offered an excellent suggestion regarding wg pushbacks for earrings! I would have never thought of that in a million years! I imagine all prior complaints about screw posts and backs were from findings companies and not die struck like yours. I prefer push backs myself as I take earrings on and off daily and wouldn't have the patience for screw posts and backs!

Thank you for contributing to this thread! I am sure it will be a valuable reference as people have to choose metals for jewelry pieces.
 
Winks_Elf said:
Platinum is my favorite recommendation for earrings, as it limits the risk of a reaction to alloys often used in white gold (especially if the earrings are for a young wearer). When it comes to screwback vs tension, that's where people get somewhat divided. I personally love screwbacks but not everyone finds them to be comfortable. Also, if you're not diligent about keeping the earrings cleaned, you can be at risk for infection.

Now, if using a tension back on a pair of platinum earrings, I would suggest a pair of palladium or 14kwg/Pal friction backs. This is because platinum is softer and - unless the platinum backs are heavy duty - they can easily loosen up over time. The palladium backs don't have the same softness of platinum, which prevents them from loosening up. Bonus: they're a lower risk of sensitivity than regular 14k or 18k white gold because palladium is in the platinum family

Bracelets are a completely different animal. Unless you’re head-banging at a rock concert the most abuse your earrings usually incur is getting hit against a telephone when you raise it to your ear. Alternately, bracelets are constantly being bumped, scraped, tugged, and generally abused – often without the wearer even realizing it. Platinum is malleable. 14kwg is harder, but the metal wears away over time (instead of just being ‘pushed around’ in the case of platinum). It’s six in one, half a dozen in another. For my own bracelet, I chose 14k white gold simply because I'm not gentle on my jewelry. A lot of this really depends on your wear habits.
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Thanks, Melissa! So good to "see" you, too!

I see that you and Victor both gave the information about using pal/wg friction backs for earrings instead of platinum! I have been here almost 15 years and this is the first time I can recall seeing that recommendation! But better late than never!

Good thoughts on the wear habits for the bracelets, too. I almost never wear my old pre-PS 14k wg tennis bracelet, so it is in excellent condition. But I think if I ever get a new one, I could do it in platinum since it wouldn't be a daily wear piece for me.
 
Super informative thread! Just wanted to thank @diamondseeker for all the info and moderating the topic and all the pros who responded - I am learning a lot here :)
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
Excellent, thank you @Texas Leaguer ! Can't you rhodium plate platinum if you want high luster with the durability of platinum?

@Wink I hope you'll chime in because I am pretty sure I recall you saying that your favor gold over platinum for tennis bracelets.
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While I am not Wink (lol), you might be right that he prefers white gold over platinum. I have recently (a month ago) had a platinum diamond tennis bracelet done by HPD and it was strongly recommended to me to go with white gold. I did not (stubborn me) for three reasons: I do not like to re-plate white gold, I like the weight of the platinum as well as the fact that platinum will always be able to go to its original condition after polishing and cleaning, whereas wg will always retain small scratches regardless of polishing.

I do not remember the exact reason Layla suggested white gold but I believe it had something to do with softness of platinum and, perhaps, the bracelet stretching over time due to it? - Wink can correct me if I am wrong. Also, platinum might not do well when bracelets are being bumped into places due to platinum's softness whereas wg is more durable in that sense.
 
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daisygrl said:
While I am not Wink (lol), you might be right that he prefers white gold over platinum. I have recently (a month ago) had a platinum diamond tennis bracelet done by HPD and it was strongly recommended to me to go with white gold. I did not (stubborn me) for three reasons: I do not like to re-plate white gold, I like the weight of the platinum as well as the fact that platinum will always be able to go to its original condition after polishing and cleaning, whereas wg will always retain small scratches regardless of polishing.

I do not remember the exact reason Layla suggested white gold but I believe it had something to do with softness of platinum and, perhaps, the bracelet stretching over time due to it? - Wink can correct me if I am wrong. Also, platinum might not do well when bracelets are being bumped into places due to platinum's softness whereas wg is more durable in that sense.
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@daisygirl - how do you find the weight of your platinum bracelet? Do you think it is heavy or is it fine for every day wear?
 
MissGotRocks said:
@daisygirl - how do you find the weight of your platinum bracelet? Do you think it is heavy or is it fine for every day wear?
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@MissGotRocks I love it and am glad I chose platinum. Honestly, it is not that heavy as my bracelet is only 5.67ctw, so the individual diamonds are not that big/heavy. I like to feel that I am actually wearing something on my wrist - if that makes sense.
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
I've never heard of anyone wearing 14-18k yellow gold (the most common yg in the US) having an allergy. So I have no idea. My sister in law was allergic to wg and reset her engagement ring in yg and never had an issue. Nickel is the only alloy I have heard of that commonly causes a problem. Maybe one of the jewelers here can answer that.
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My daughter cannot wear 14k or 18k yellow gold (earrings, anyway, she seems to be ok with rings, knock on wood). They make her piercings weep and bleed. We did metal patch testing. She is allergic to nickel, cobalt, and copper. My understanding is that nickel is the culprit in many alloys, and that especially in rose gold, one has to beware of copper.

For earrings, we are sticking to platinum. She has been experimenting with wearing some of the rings from my youth that are yellow gold (mostly 14k), and so far, those seem ok.

As an FYI for those of you with young kids, what triggered my daughter’s metal allergy was orthodontics. She was fine prior to ortho and could wear any earrings, even cheapies. During ortho we had huge problems—her gums swelled up (despite excellent oral hygiene). They actually had to remove her braces early. During this same time she all of a sudden became unable to tolerate earrings. I had extensive conversations with the orthodontist, and apparently the arch wires they use in orthodontics are 95% nickel. There is no alternative (other than Invisalign). Soooo, something to be aware of.
 
I wore platinum studs with plain pushbacks for almost 4 years straight and they stayed wonderfully tight. Thank you Whiteflash. I had a severe gold allergy (even 24k gold caused a reaction) and platinum was the only metal that could help my piercings heal after my third time attempting piercing my ears. After four years of wearing nothing but the same platinum earrings I can wear white gold daily in my ears. Go figure.

My rings are generally platinum because I like the weight and the patina it gets over time. My tennis bracelet is 14k WG because I needed something light weight. If wearable, I tend not to take off my bracelets and I forget this bracelet is even on.
I think there is room for both in a collection.
 
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