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Questions! Cushion Cut / Support Bar / Length / Depth %

ChairmanOfTheBoard

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Messages
27
Hello all- ive been reading your forum for a few months now and it has been so helpful, so thank you! I have two issues that at first do not seem related, but, i think they are.

1) I know that the GF wants a cushion. Im not in love with it (for reasons i wont list here- unless you really want to know) and i dont like a halo setting. The halo to me distracts from the diamond too much and also can give the effect of trying to make it look bigger (which, yes, is the purpose of any setting!). She likely wants a prong setting.

So i am mostly reduced to a cushion cut with a prong setting. Jeweler told me that cushions can turn and even slip out of a prong setting, so they come with a support bar. Not a perfect image but this is it:

IMG_6159.jpg


I dont like the support bar because it partially blocks the bottom of the diamond (thicker ones do at least). This not only obstructs the view (which, i understand is not the preferred nor primary view) but also presents a quandary of do i even bother getting a deep diamond, because you cant see the bottom anyway in this setting. Which brings me to...


2) Ive been reading all over about depth and scintillation/brilliance/fire. One of the primary concerns for me is light reflection. Here is a general chart:



For the length/width % of cushions, is there a difference for ideal depth %?
Is it different for each, or same?
Is there a crown angle or pavilion angle that is desirable? http://www.omniadiamonds.com/7-1.jpg

Here's the conflicting info ive read:

-depth is generally preferred for any stone at 58-62% http://smartcarat.com/diamond-smarts/diamond-depth-percentage/
-there are exceptions to the standard #s when it comes to cushions, 59-64% is preferable http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/cushion-cut-diamond
-depth is completely different for cushions and a higher # is ok [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-ideal-length-width-ratio.63340/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-ideal-length-width-ratio.63340/[/URL]
-depth % that is preferred is based on whether you get a more square vs rectangular cushion [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-ideal-length-width-ratio.63340/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-ideal-length-width-ratio.63340/[/URL] (also says closer to round is better for light)
-depth should be: "in the range of 69.9 to 62%. Lower than this 70+ will create too much depth below the girdle and the consumer will be paying for weight that cannot be seen. Above the 62% and the diamond can become watery in appearance thus reducing brilliance. Unlike the “crushed ice” cushion the table can be increased to the 60-66% to allow the 4 pavilion facets full opportunity of displaying brilliance." http://www.pricescope.com/journal/cushion-cut-diamond-guide-engagement-rings-direct-0
-then i read this: "This steeper angle ensures greater brilliance in a cushion cut. 75% You will find that a cushion cut diamond within this range will deliver more brilliance. Cushion cut diamonds that are closer to square in measurement will be more brilliant if the depth percentage is within the range of 65% to 75%. Cushion cut diamonds that have more rectangular shapes exhibit greater brilliance with depth percentages between 70% to 80%." http://www.drostes.com/Cushion-Depth-_ep_137.html


What makes sense to me amongst all of this- is to avoid any extreme #s! http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/cushion-cut-diamond

The consensus- from both the internet and jewelers ive met in person- is that for cushions, you cannot go simply by the #s. Arrrrghghhg!

* * *

So now you hopefully see how the issues are related- do i get a deep cut (which you cant see part of it)(which might or might not reflect properly?) or a shallow (which might or might not reflect properly?) or something in between (which is wasteful with the support bar)?

I guess, is this so unsafe:



Other ideas:
-just go round brilliant?
-risk a prong setting with no support?
-a moderate depth with the support bar?
-just get something and she can return it
-can i get a six prong, or perhaps a very thin support bar?

Thanks everyone. This will be my first and last engagement. Hopefully for her too!


fb


PS- i fortunately have the carat, color, clarity, size, and budget all set- if it helps, ill post. I plan on dropping to a knee on her birthday, April 20.

cushion_cut_1.jpg

_15483.jpg
 
I would contact Engagement Rings Direct or Good Old Gold and work with them. Both are known for great cushions, and both can get you a great ring. Those are a cut you must select by vision, and not by numbers.

For the setting, I think a nice micropave shank solitaire which both can easily do beautifully will be great, and I don't think you need a support bar--that sounds like a heap of crap to me and an excuse for shoddy benchwork. If the stone is seated properly and set properly in it's mounting, it's not going to "slip out" of the setting.
 
Contact Jonathan at Good Old Gold. Check out GOG's YouTube channel and watch some of his videos about cushion cuts. He will steer you in the right direction, and you may just fall in love with cushion cuts in the process. Good luck, and please keep us posted.
 
You seem very anal with cut. Just buy a AVC with GOG, Briella with GOG, Victor Canera Cushion or a BGD Signature Cushion.

If setting done right, you will be fine without a support beam but not sure if I trust your jeweler.
 
I totally agree, Good Old Gold is the way to go! Their cushions are amazing :appl:
 
thanks all for your responses! ive read great things about mark at ERD, so i will contact him.

the jeweler (he's not my jeweler btw) got me concerned because though a good setting wont slip- what if it does? thats a legitimate concern and i have heard of it happening.

regarding the "anal". its one of the most important moments of my life, her life, and quite a large expenditure. shall i not do my homework? i would think im serving her interests by looking into this!

so ill be taking a look at ERD and also GOG. ive been to both sites but will have to do more digging and report back. thanks again!


-CotB
 
ChairmanOfTheBoard|1393952834|3627251 said:
regarding the "anal". its one of the most important moments of my life, her life, and quite a large expenditure. shall i not do my homework? i would think im serving her interests by looking into this!

Don't get me wrong - I wasn't using the term in a bad way. Most people on here are "anal" about cut and if numbers are important to you - I would just go straight to the branded cuts I mentioned above. You won't get that type of cut through the generic ERD stones. Don't get me wrong .. I love ERD as a vendor so I am not saying they are bad .. just different stones.

You should go search and dig up my hundreds and hundreds of posts about cushions. I am in the same camp as you :)

One comment on the jeweler you spoke to ... Tiffany Novo is a cushion without a bar - do they think T&CO will have their diamonds falling out on a regular basis?
 
I am anal-retentive and an absolute perfectionist--and I take the term "anal" as a complement, many jewelers and vendors don't prefer to work with me because of it, but that's probably because their quality of work doesn't meet my exacting standards. You know what you want, you want to learn all about it, and you want to do it right. Between those two vendors, they'll make sure you get it right.
 
CharmyPoo|1393955771|3627290 said:
ChairmanOfTheBoard|1393952834|3627251 said:
regarding the "anal". its one of the most important moments of my life, her life, and quite a large expenditure. shall i not do my homework? i would think im serving her interests by looking into this!

Don't get me wrong - I wasn't using the term in a bad way. Most people on here are "anal" about cut and if numbers are important to you - I would just go straight to the branded cuts I mentioned above. You won't get that type of cut through the generic ERD stones. Don't get me wrong .. I love ERD as a vendor so I am not saying they are bad .. just different stones.

You should go search and dig up my hundreds and hundreds of posts about cushions. I am in the same camp as you :)

One comment on the jeweler you spoke to ... Tiffany Novo is a cushion without a bar - do they think T&CO will have their diamonds falling out on a regular basis?


thanks- i feel like ive done that search already and the differentiating factor is the depth... i think she wants more of a generic stone, though. i did look quickly at a novo... i didnt ask that question, perhaps i will if i go back! good point!
 
The differentiating factor is not only depth. Facet pattern plays a huge role in how cushions look.

After seeing hundreds of cushions, I have concluded that the most beautiful cushions have a depth of between 63% to 67%.

Read step 1 of my thread here to learn more about different types of cushions (you can ignore the parts about the halo setting).
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-101-my-experience-in-making-a-harry-winston-halo.183473/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-101-my-experience-in-making-a-harry-winston-halo.183473/[/URL]
 
thanks- will read.

on that note, since light reflection is so important to her- i am also worried about pavilion angle (should i be?). i keep reading about the tolkowsky proportions and 40-41 degrees, but again i dont know if those apply to cushions... especially whether it is a more rectangular vs square cushion... any guidance?
 
Cushions are a completely different beast from rounds. There are soooo many variables that can impact how it looks - no hard and fast rules. It is a must to see a real life photo of a cushion.
 
that was helpful- i found a photo of what i have in mind (top image only):

novo-vs-ritani-heads.jpg


of course, im not concerned with the stones on the band, in fact id like it without them, as again i think its distracting. so since that is in the ballpark of what she wants, if anyone has more suggestions id be glad to take a look- thanks for all youve sent in so far!
 
Don't make this so hard. Get a Brian Gavin Signature cushion and one of their Legera/Novela settings that does not have a basket setting. BAM.
 
so helpful! thanks!

unf, the BG signatures are just out of my budget for the size/clarity that i need. plenty of places to look though.

man this is hard for a guy that grew up with two brothers, around locker rooms, male coworkers, and male roommates. a few weeks ago i didnt know what a cushion cut was...
 
Whats your budget? We can help.
 
an honest evaluation- $14-18k for the stone. my preferences are what i think are pretty mainstream- maybe:

-cushion cut (no preference yet on various styles)
-D through H color
-VS1 through IF clarity
-1.7 through 2.1 carat
-VG to Ideal cut
-1.0 through 1.2 L/W

Judging by a moderate visit to the search engines, this can be done!

if i need to post more (girdle, pavilion angle, depth, table, etc) please let me know, i have some of these. i think?

thanks so so so much again!
 
You can do it, and if you're willing id go g-h with Fluor for color, tho even I, and vs1, that will get you larger. I'm a clarity person, but I don't need the highest color. I like vs1 and higher even though it's not "needed" bec I like that element of mind cleanliness.
 
we will help you find some winners. Do you prefer a modern or antique style cushion? Rather--- is she interested in the novo style bec I believe that's more modern/h&a style.
 
whoa boy... you mightve lost me there! lets go with modern. i can post pics of what i think she doesnt like?

and ill post some that im currently looking at... will revert.
 
If you read my thread, it explains all the different types of cushions. Cushion prices are largely driven by facet pattern and cut even with the same ct weight, color and clarity.

Some high-level themes in regards to pricing ...

Crushed Ice < Nice Modified Brilliant < 4-main Cushion Brilliant < 8-main Cushion Brilliant < Generic Antique Cut < Branded Cuts

True antique OMC can be found in a wide range of price points.

Canadian diamonds cost a lot more.
 
i did- i read it yesterday. i really dont know which she would like- what i can tell you is id avoid the crushed ice (or any cushion where the facets are too small). she'd rather have actual facets you can see. should i post some pics to give an idea?
 
update-

i went to a few more jewelers in person, because, im on board that you need to see the cushions and cant really go by the #s.

my last remaining questions were now centered around the type of cushion. i basically want to avoid crushed ice, which (please tell me if you agree/disagree) is the primary reason you should avoid buying cushions online; if you cant see it, and it looks like a good price, and the #s are there, its likely a crushed ice. (i wanted bigger faceting and better fire/scintillation/brilliance)

lastly, i found a jeweler that i am very happy with through a very good friend. so i went in, met for 90 min, discussed my needs, and they even found a leading candidate for me!

ill keep you posted.
 
If you buy from a vendor that has pictures, you won't "inadvertently" end up with a crushed ice style cushion.
 
yes but ive only found vendors that have photos either usually dont have loose diamonds or a selection so small that i cant find what i want. thanks again.
 
Sure, if you want to shop in person, that's great.

If you want to shop online, there are plenty of vendors who have a large selection of loose cushions with pictures.
 
thanks- all ive seen dont have them- can you please suggest a few?

so here's the next issue i have- its kinda stated above- i go to a reputable jeweler, and i find a cushion that is great candidate. the price is a bit high for my budget.

so i naturally go back to the online search to do some comparison. and i find stones that have the same exact dimensions (yes, i understand these are #s only!) and yet are a few thousand lower.

therefore, i conclude that these must be a poor cut (despite the rating), and maybe even crushed ice. thats what i think may be driving the price so far down.

fyi- im not just talking a few thousand bucks- i mean 4-5k in some cases. what gives?

any thoughts/guidance on this? id love to hear if that is in fact what you guys think...
 
charmy poo, you are funny.
 
If you want a beautiful cushion, with facets that emit rainbow colors then you should check out GOG AVC stones.. there are videos of the stones... I have one and I love it and I'm 61 and I've been married 2x and I am a diamond lover... she will have an awesome, unique stone. but that is me :)

best of luck.. and my husband comes from a family of 5 sons, 1 girl and he was able to find me several stones over the last 26 years so you can do it!

the vendors on this site - I believe - BELIEVE in best cut, best quality, best price.. I am not sure my local jeweler is exactly the same.

Congrats!!!
:wavey:

ChairmanOfTheBoard|1394559924|3631807 said:
thanks- all ive seen dont have them- can you please suggest a few?

so here's the next issue i have- its kinda stated above- i go to a reputable jeweler, and i find a cushion that is great candidate. the price is a bit high for my budget.

so i naturally go back to the online search to do some comparison. and i find stones that have the same exact dimensions (yes, i understand these are #s only!) and yet are a few thousand lower.

therefore, i conclude that these must be a poor cut (despite the rating), and maybe even crushed ice. thats what i think may be driving the price so far down.

fyi- im not just talking a few thousand bucks- i mean 4-5k in some cases. what gives?

any thoughts/guidance on this? id love to hear if that is in fact what you guys think...
 
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