Questions for Mr. McEwen of gemesis.com

[Clark McEwen]

I thought that I would move this over from the other thread

This is a shot of what the facility looked like up until 2005...

 

[Clark McEwen]

And what it looked like in 2007...

 

[Clark McEwen]

Some people have asked what the rough looks like so I''ve uploaded a pic of Orange and Yellow rough.

 

[strmrdr]

Clark,
Thank you for answering my questions.
storm

 

[strmrdr]

Have you considered having a cut optimization study done?
If your rough is fairly consistent you could add a ton of money to your bottom line by optimizing for color, performance and yield.

 

[Clark McEwen]

Date: 6/13/2008 2:00:15 PM
Author: strmrdr
Have you considered having a cut optimization study done?

If your rough is fairly consistent you could add a ton of money to your bottom line by optimizing for color, performance and yield.

Hi Storm,

With the volumes that we are doing the most efficient way for us to distribute our diamonds is by selling them as rough. We sell parcels of rough monthly to a predetermined group of customers in a system that closely resembles the "sight" system other rough diamond producers use. As we are not actually cutting the stones (our customers are) I don''t think that we would benefit from a cut optimization study. Having said that, we do test polish stones in order to understand the kind of yields that our customers should expect and I have been to most of our customers polishing facilities and all are using some sort of Sarin or OGI type yield optimizers.

Just as in nature each diamond that we grow in unique...the size, the color, the purity and the shape (or combination thereof) will be different. Don''t get me wrong we do have an idea what will come out (within basic parameters) but it is not consistent enough to be predictable and therefore optimized other than at the individual diamond level.

Cheers,
Clark

 

[denverappraiser]

Clark,

I have a question about hybrid natural/synthetic stones. By this I don’t mean the coated stimulants that get sold with this term but rather a stone that is a combination of synthetic diamond and natural diamond, a phenomena that is becoming increasingly common in with rubies. Is it possible to take a rather large natural diamond and use it as a seed to make a slightly larger hybrid or to use grown diamond to fill in voids or cavities in a natural stone that would improve the cutters yield?

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[Clark McEwen]

Date: 6/14/2008 9:50:07 AM
Author: denverappraiser
Clark,


I have a question about hybrid natural/synthetic stones. By this I don’t mean the coated stimulants that get sold with this term but rather a stone that is a combination of synthetic diamond and natural diamond, a phenomena that is becoming increasingly common in with rubies. Is it possible to take a rather large natural diamond and use it as a seed to make a slightly larger hybrid or to use grown diamond to fill in voids or cavities in a natural stone that would improve the cutters yield?


Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA

Professional Appraisals in Denver

Hi Neil,

The HPHT process deals with growth from a prepared seed with the stone "feeding" off of itself as if grows. The concept of filling holes or "adding" to a stone would probably be more suited for CVD which "paints" a layer of diamond on a substrate. I am thinking this way because I know that experiments are being conducted using CVD to "coat" other materials...so why not coat diamond!

Cheers,
Clark

 

[denverappraiser]

Thank you.

Most of the products I see with a CVD diamond like coating are growing a rather thin layer designed to increase durability of things like critical surfaces on machine tools but please correct me if this is wrong. The jewelry industry applications seem to be largely bogus but, in any case, the coating seems to be quite thin and it’s my understanding that this is due to technical limits rather than by any particular choice. Coating a 4.00ct diamond resulting in a 4.001ct. finished product is still academically interesting but I don’t see much of a payoff in DLC on top of natural diamond if this is the expected results. If, on the other hand, it’s possible to turn a 4 carat piece of rough into a 5 carat piece of better rough or where some of the inclusions have been ‘healed’ using grown diamond then the potential payoff would be huge.

You mentioned that the seed must be ‘prepared’. Can you tell us anything about this? My understanding is the seed is relatively small, unlike the way it’s done in cultured pearls where the seed is a large percentage of the final product. Is the seed a natural diamond or can you make your own seeds out of previously grown synthetics?

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[Clark McEwen]

Date: 6/15/2008 1:36:27 PM
Author: denverappraiser
Thank you.


Most of the products I see with a CVD diamond like coating are growing a rather thin layer designed to increase durability of things like critical surfaces on machine tools but please correct me if this is wrong. The jewelry industry applications seem to be largely bogus but, in any case, the coating seems to be quite thin and it’s my understanding that this is due to technical limits rather than by any particular choice. Coating a 4.00ct diamond resulting in a 4.001ct. finished product is still academically interesting but I don’t see much of a payoff in DLC on top of natural diamond if this is the expected results. If, on the other hand, it’s possible to turn a 4 carat piece of rough into a 5 carat piece of better rough or where some of the inclusions have been ‘healed’ using grown diamond then the potential payoff would be huge.


You mentioned that the seed must be ‘prepared’. Can you tell us anything about this? My understanding is the seed is relatively small, unlike the way it’s done in cultured pearls where the seed is a large percentage of the final product. Is the seed a natural diamond or can you make your own seeds out of previously grown synthetics?


Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA

Professional Appraisals in Denver

Hi Neil,

You are correct...one of the major issues with CVD is the depth to which the crystal can be grown. As anybody that knows the importance of proportions with regards to diamond cutting understands the depth of the material will ultimately dictate the width of the finished stone (if you want nice made stones)...it doesn''t matter how big the crystal is if it doesn''t have a "reasonable" depth you are limited to producing small polished.

I can''t really get into the detail (IP) of how we prepare our seeds but I can tell you that the seed can be either mined or lab-grown...the secret is what they are (size, shape, color, quality etc) and how they are prepared. One thing to be aware of is the fact that the seed actually desolves and is not part of the finished product.

I like your comments about "cultured" pearls...and pointing out the fact that they are little more than a coating of nacre on a bead...great marketing job Mr. Mikimoto!!

Cheers,
Clark

 

[diagem]

Date: 6/17/2008 2:32:04 PM
Author: Clark McEwen

Date: 6/15/2008 1:36:27 PM
Author: denverappraiser
Thank you.


Most of the products I see with a CVD diamond like coating are growing a rather thin layer designed to increase durability of things like critical surfaces on machine tools but please correct me if this is wrong. The jewelry industry applications seem to be largely bogus but, in any case, the coating seems to be quite thin and it’s my understanding that this is due to technical limits rather than by any particular choice. Coating a 4.00ct diamond resulting in a 4.001ct. finished product is still academically interesting but I don’t see much of a payoff in DLC on top of natural diamond if this is the expected results. If, on the other hand, it’s possible to turn a 4 carat piece of rough into a 5 carat piece of better rough or where some of the inclusions have been ‘healed’ using grown diamond then the potential payoff would be huge.


You mentioned that the seed must be ‘prepared’. Can you tell us anything about this? My understanding is the seed is relatively small, unlike the way it’s done in cultured pearls where the seed is a large percentage of the final product. Is the seed a natural diamond or can you make your own seeds out of previously grown synthetics?


Neil Beaty

GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA

Professional Appraisals in Denver

Hi Neil,

You are correct...one of the major issues with CVD is the depth to which the crystal can be grown. As anybody that knows the importance of proportions with regards to diamond cutting understands the depth of the material will ultimately dictate the width of the finished stone (if you want nice made stones)...it doesn''t matter how big the crystal is if it doesn''t have a ''reasonable'' depth you are limited to producing small polished.

I can''t really get into the detail (IP) of how we prepare our seeds but I can tell you that the seed can be either mined or lab-grown...the secret is what they are (size, shape, color, quality etc) and how they are prepared. One thing to be aware of is the fact that the seed actually desolves and is not part of the finished product.

I like your comments about ''cultured'' pearls...and pointing out the fact that they are little more than a coating of nacre on a bead...great marketing job Mr. Mikimoto!!

Cheers,
Clark

Now we definitely know you come from the "traditional" Diamond industry...

I would suggest to think a bit ''outside the box''..., you (or other makers/producers of synthetic Diamonds) are dealing with a product that has great potential of being used/practiced in different ways/fashions than traditional ''natural'' Diamond users...

Due to the fact that these synthetic Diamonds (in this I am generally pointing out to CVD ''thin wafer'' rough material) are calculated differently than their natural counterparts..., I think designing new shapes and cuts (even flats with large spread potential) can be translated into beautiful innovations..., hey..., its being done with natural Diamonds at a much greater financial risk....

There are plenty of gorgeous super flat Diamond cuts out there being used by jewelry designers day in-day out..., true.., its not your traditional 60-70% total depth shapes cut for maximum light return..., but they sure are considered beautiful and sought after these days when designers are looking for the unique!

Just as one example...., Rose-Cuts....

 

[coatimundi_org]

Date: 6/17/2008 5:50:16 PM
Author: DiaGem

Date: 6/17/2008 2:32:04 PM

Author: Clark McEwen

Date: 6/15/2008 1:36:27 PM

Author: denverappraiser

Thank you.



Most of the products I see with a CVD diamond like coating are growing a rather thin layer designed to increase durability of things like critical surfaces on machine tools but please correct me if this is wrong. The jewelry industry applications seem to be largely bogus but, in any case, the coating seems to be quite thin and it’s my understanding that this is due to technical limits rather than by any particular choice. Coating a 4.00ct diamond resulting in a 4.001ct. finished product is still academically interesting but I don’t see much of a payoff in DLC on top of natural diamond if this is the expected results. If, on the other hand, it’s possible to turn a 4 carat piece of rough into a 5 carat piece of better rough or where some of the inclusions have been ‘healed’ using grown diamond then the potential payoff would be huge.



You mentioned that the seed must be ‘prepared’. Can you tell us anything about this? My understanding is the seed is relatively small, unlike the way it’s done in cultured pearls where the seed is a large percentage of the final product. Is the seed a natural diamond or can you make your own seeds out of previously grown synthetics?



Neil Beaty


GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA


Professional Appraisals in Denver

Hi Neil,


You are correct...one of the major issues with CVD is the depth to which the crystal can be grown. As anybody that knows the importance of proportions with regards to diamond cutting understands the depth of the material will ultimately dictate the width of the finished stone (if you want nice made stones)...it doesn't matter how big the crystal is if it doesn't have a 'reasonable' depth you are limited to producing small polished.


I can't really get into the detail (IP) of how we prepare our seeds but I can tell you that the seed can be either mined or lab-grown...the secret is what they are (size, shape, color, quality etc) and how they are prepared. One thing to be aware of is the fact that the seed actually desolves and is not part of the finished product.


I like your comments about 'cultured' pearls...and pointing out the fact that they are little more than a coating of nacre on a bead...great marketing job Mr. Mikimoto!!


Cheers,

Clark

Now we definitely know you come from the 'traditional' Diamond industry...

I would suggest to think a bit 'outside the box'..., you (or other makers/producers of synthetic Diamonds) are dealing with a product that has great potential of being used/practiced in different ways/fashions than traditional 'natural' Diamond users...


Due to the fact that these synthetic Diamonds (in this I am generally pointing out to CVD 'thin wafer' rough material) are calculated differently than their natural counterparts..., I think designing new shapes and cuts (even flats with large spread potential) can be translated into beautiful innovations..., hey..., its being done with natural Diamonds at a much greater financial risk....


There are plenty of gorgeous super flat Diamond cuts out there being used by jewelry designers day in-day out..., true.., its not your traditional 60-70% total depth shapes cut for maximum light return..., but they sure are considered beautiful and sought after these days when designers are looking for the unique!


Just as one example...., Rose-Cuts....

Right on Diagem! I was looking at photos of the CVD wafers, and I thought--step/rose-ish cuts--how cool would that be? I even think some of the industrial wafers already look like gems.

 

[Clark McEwen]

Date: 6/17/2008 7:30:24 PM
Author: coatimundi

Date: 6/17/2008 5:50:16 PM

Author: DiaGem

Date: 6/17/2008 2:32:04 PM


Author: Clark McEwen

Date: 6/15/2008 1:36:27 PM


Author: denverappraiser


Thank you.




Most of the products I see with a CVD diamond like coating are growing a rather thin layer designed to increase durability of things like critical surfaces on machine tools but please correct me if this is wrong. The jewelry industry applications seem to be largely bogus but, in any case, the coating seems to be quite thin and it’s my understanding that this is due to technical limits rather than by any particular choice. Coating a 4.00ct diamond resulting in a 4.001ct. finished product is still academically interesting but I don’t see much of a payoff in DLC on top of natural diamond if this is the expected results. If, on the other hand, it’s possible to turn a 4 carat piece of rough into a 5 carat piece of better rough or where some of the inclusions have been ‘healed’ using grown diamond then the potential payoff would be huge.




You mentioned that the seed must be ‘prepared’. Can you tell us anything about this? My understanding is the seed is relatively small, unlike the way it’s done in cultured pearls where the seed is a large percentage of the final product. Is the seed a natural diamond or can you make your own seeds out of previously grown synthetics?




Neil Beaty



GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA



Professional Appraisals in Denver

Hi Neil,



You are correct...one of the major issues with CVD is the depth to which the crystal can be grown. As anybody that knows the importance of proportions with regards to diamond cutting understands the depth of the material will ultimately dictate the width of the finished stone (if you want nice made stones)...it doesn''t matter how big the crystal is if it doesn''t have a ''reasonable'' depth you are limited to producing small polished.



I can''t really get into the detail (IP) of how we prepare our seeds but I can tell you that the seed can be either mined or lab-grown...the secret is what they are (size, shape, color, quality etc) and how they are prepared. One thing to be aware of is the fact that the seed actually desolves and is not part of the finished product.



I like your comments about ''cultured'' pearls...and pointing out the fact that they are little more than a coating of nacre on a bead...great marketing job Mr. Mikimoto!!



Cheers,


Clark

Now we definitely know you come from the ''traditional'' Diamond industry...

I would suggest to think a bit ''outside the box''..., you (or other makers/producers of synthetic Diamonds) are dealing with a product that has great potential of being used/practiced in different ways/fashions than traditional ''natural'' Diamond users...



Due to the fact that these synthetic Diamonds (in this I am generally pointing out to CVD ''thin wafer'' rough material) are calculated differently than their natural counterparts..., I think designing new shapes and cuts (even flats with large spread potential) can be translated into beautiful innovations..., hey..., its being done with natural Diamonds at a much greater financial risk....



There are plenty of gorgeous super flat Diamond cuts out there being used by jewelry designers day in-day out..., true.., its not your traditional 60-70% total depth shapes cut for maximum light return..., but they sure are considered beautiful and sought after these days when designers are looking for the unique!



Just as one example...., Rose-Cuts....

Right on Diagem! I was looking at photos of the CVD wafers, and I thought--step/rose-ish cuts--how cool would that be? I even think some of the industrial wafers already look like gems.

I actually agree with you both...there are many "alternate" cuts that are unique and beautiful. Unfortunately for them most consumers want a traditional cut. I encourage our customers to differentiate themselves from others and one of the easiest way to do that is to modify the cut of their stones. I think that I mentioned that one of our customers is in fact using a proprietary cut but he is finding that he can sell more stones if thy are cut traditionally.

I think that it ultimately comes down to the size of your business or scale...it is much easier to sell 10,000 Round Brills per month than it is to sell the same amount of Rose cuts.

Please don''t read this as a criticism of your point of view...it is simply the reality of the CURRENT situation...if you want to sell in any sort of quantity you need to give the consumer what they want or what they are familiar with.

BTW If you are looking for "flats" I can put you in touch with some people in Antwerp that always have a lot of these for sale!

Cheers,
Clark

 

[diagem]

Date: 6/17/2008 10:22:58 PM
Author: Clark McEwen


I actually agree with you both...there are many ''alternate'' cuts that are unique and beautiful. Unfortunately for them most consumers want a traditional cut. I encourage our customers to differentiate themselves from others and one of the easiest way to do that is to modify the cut of their stones. I think that I mentioned that one of our customers is in fact using a proprietary cut but he is finding that he can sell more stones if thy are cut traditionally.

Because that is what they know and see around them...

I think that it ultimately comes down to the size of your business or scale...it is much easier to sell 10,000 Round Brills per month than it is to sell the same amount of Rose cuts.

Please don''t read this as a criticism of your point of view...it is simply the reality of the CURRENT situation...if you want to sell in any sort of quantity you need to give the consumer what they want or what they are familiar with. Or educate them of the other possibilities...

BTW If you are looking for ''flats'' I can put you in touch with some people in Antwerp that always have a lot of these for sale!

Cheers,
Clark

I realy believe the future of Diamond (synthetic or natural) cutting is hidden in innovation and/or creative design cutting and marketing...
I believe the "play of light" is still in its diapers and is waiting to be revealed...

Its not all about maximum ''light-fire-brilliant'' face-up return in conjunction with the spread factor...

 

[Clark McEwen]

Date: 6/18/2008 4:13:57 AM
Author: DiaGem

Date: 6/17/2008 10:22:58 PM

Author: Clark McEwen



I actually agree with you both...there are many ''alternate'' cuts that are unique and beautiful. Unfortunately for them most consumers want a traditional cut. I encourage our customers to differentiate themselves from others and one of the easiest way to do that is to modify the cut of their stones. I think that I mentioned that one of our customers is in fact using a proprietary cut but he is finding that he can sell more stones if thy are cut traditionally.


Because that is what they know and see around them...


I think that it ultimately comes down to the size of your business or scale...it is much easier to sell 10,000 Round Brills per month than it is to sell the same amount of Rose cuts.


Please don''t read this as a criticism of your point of view...it is simply the reality of the CURRENT situation...if you want to sell in any sort of quantity you need to give the consumer what they want or what they are familiar with. Or educate them of the other possibilities...

BTW If you are looking for ''flats'' I can put you in touch with some people in Antwerp that always have a lot of these for sale!


Cheers,

Clark

I realy believe the future of Diamond (synthetic or natural) cutting is hidden in innovation and/or creative design cutting and marketing...

I believe the ''play of light'' is still in its diapers and is waiting to be revealed...


Its not all about maximum ''light-fire-brilliant'' face-up return in conjunction with the spread factor...

Hi DiaGem,

I agree with you...but it takes time for the consumer to get comfortable with anything new and if you are trying to run a commercial business (of any scale) in the meantime you need to listen to your customer. My comments are solely based on keeping the cash flow happening in a growing business.

Also, with lab-grown diamonds you usually have some work to do to get the consumer comfortable with the product (due to a lot of misconceptions and misinformation) and then to add a non-traditional cut to the mix makes for a very difficult sale.

As a side note...unlike mined rough HPHT rough tends to be relatively consistent in its morphology and there typically is enough depth to width in order to polish a traditional cut so thats what tends to happen.

Cheers,
Clark

 

[strmrdr]

I have some questions about inclusions which you may not want to answer for IP reasons and that is ok.

What is the most common inclusion type?
Is it also the most common one found in natural rough?
What is the effect of rate of growth on inclusion? i.e. could you get IF stones if you grew them slower? faster? not possible?
How does the purity of the source carbon affect the presence of inclusions?

 

[LAJennifer]

Date: 6/12/2008 1:56:17 PM
Author: PS Admin
Just to clarify to everyone. For educational purposes this thread has been given approval.

Clark thank you for taking your time to educate us.

As mostly a lurker - I just have to say - Gosh, I love this place!

 

[Clark McEwen]

Date: 6/18/2008 11:40:17 AM
Author: strmrdr
I have some questions about inclusions which you may not want to answer for IP reasons and that is ok.


What is the most common inclusion type?

Is it also the most common one found in natural rough?

What is the effect of rate of growth on inclusion? i.e. could you get IF stones if you grew them slower? faster? not possible?

How does the purity of the source carbon affect the presence of inclusions?

Hi Storm,

Sorry for the delay...I''m on the road with little computer access.

Metal is the most common type of inclusion in our rough diamonds. Having said that, due to the fact that they are typically located close to the surface they are usually removed during polishing.

Growth rate and Nitrogen content play a large factor in the ultimate quality of rough diamond crystal. The slower you allow the diamond to grow or the more Nitrogen present the cleaner the stone.

Any fluctuations and I mean ANY fluctuations to the process or materials will usually cause inclusions.

Cheers,
Clark